Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Salut de Schiaparelli c1934

Salut by Schiaparelli: launched in 1934, and was meant to be worn as an accessory to women's sports clothes and was recommended for young girls.









By 1941, the Salut de Schiaparelli fragrance was available in the following:
  • dusting powder
  • bath sponges
  • eau de cologne
  • perfume
  • talc 


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like?  I am lucky enough to have a small sample of this fragrance, which I believe is the eau de cologne strength. There are no notes listed anywhere so I am testing this sample right now to give you an idea of what notes I do detect. The overall effect is vibrant, sharp, crisp, and fresh, green with a slight medicinal tone. Let's just say this is a romantic chypre and very heavy on the lily of the valley!
  •   Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, citronella, Egyptian geranium, hyssop
  • Middle notes: lily of the valley, jasmine, ylang ylang, neroli, gardenia, narcissus, hyacinth, and tuberose
  • Base notes: ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavia oakmoss, vetiver, benzoin


The Delineator, 1935:
"Schiaparelli, the brilliant couturiere, has just put out some perfumes. Her first. "Schiap" which is dedicated to the sportswoman, is our favorite, but for indoors "Salut" is pretty fetching."

The Illustrated London News, 1937:
"Thank you," say women of understanding to Schiaparelli, " for giving us three perfumes." " Salut " for the evening ; it reveals and accentuates personality, and is distinctive in every way. Its packing is artistic."

Esquire, 1939:
"Schiaparelli's dusty rose and jasmine Shocking— emotional intensity in a bottle— and the gay, light Salut, with a lily base, for the young in heart."

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1939:
"Schiaparelli presents the new Salut — a crystal flask containing the fragrance of a whole flower garden emerges from white petals set against a blue satin background. "

1939:
"SALUT by SCHIAPARELLI, a floral fragrance with a salute to the brilliance of evening and of the stars. In a graceful bottle enclosed by a plaster lily. "
1940:
"SALUT. DE SCHIAPARELLI. Eau de Cologne and Bath Sponges. A beauty in a wonderful French fragrance. Salut has a flowerlike scent that is fresh and sweet."

Bottles:



Baccarat Cube Stoppered Bottles:


First presented in 1938 and used throughout the 1940s, this clear glass bottle was created to hold the pure parfum, and was not only used for Shocking, but served as a standard bottle for several other Schiaparelli perfumes such as So Sweet, Sleeping, Salut, Le Roy Soleil, Zut, etc. I believe that this sober bottle style was used in response to World War II restrictions on importations, especially glass bottles and supplies from Czechoslovakia and Italy.

This bottle is a domestic French product, Baccarat model #788, manufactured for Schiaparelli only. It is a tall, upright rectangular shape and features a faceted glass cube as the stopper. The smallest size features a stopper that has an attached dauber. The base of the bottle is usually molded with "Schiaparelli" and "French Bottle". 
 


Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume seems to have been discontinued around 1954.




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