Saturday, December 7, 2013

Septieme Sens by Sonia Rykiel c1979

Septieme Sens by Sonia Rykiel: launched in 1979, also known as 7e Senses, was created by Françoise Caron of Roure for the "modern, adventurous woman."



Sonia Rykiel named it Seventh Sense because it reaches beyond the five senses, which are physical, and even beyond intuition, which is the sixth sense. Sonia Rykiel originally created the perfume for herself as she never wore a fragrance before Septieme Sens. "Perhaps it was because I didn't find my fragrance. That is exactly why I started designing clothes, because I couldn't find my space in clothes. Well I didn't find my space in perfume", she remarked.

In 1982, when asked about the saleability of her perfume, she said "I think my perfume could touch many more women now because it's so mysterious and life is so busy now. A woman needs to keep her mystery."

Performing Arts, 1982:
 "Septieme Sens, a fragrance by designer Sonia Rykiel, is re-entering the fragrance market under the direction of and at the counters of Germaine Monteil in the "right stores". The perfume, designed by Rykiel for herself, and women like her, has a tinge of masculine and animal allures, with a touch of "feminine mysteriousness". The multifaceted, inkwell shaped bottle is packaged in a black box with red lettering. The price is $120 for one ounce; the 3.4 oz eau de parfum is $40."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity-animalic chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity, spicy top, followed by a narcotic floral heart, resting on a sultry, sensual base. This floral scent has a topnote of nutmeg, cardamom, lauren and coriander, a middle note of jasmine backed by plum and an animalized base of vetiver, patchouli and amber. Musk and amber blended with the chiaroscuro of jasmine.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, prune, peach, bergamot, nutmeg, coriander, violet, cardamom, angelica
  • Middle notes: clove, lily of the valley, mirabelle plum, jonquil, narcissus, carnation, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, honey
  • Base notes: resin, leather, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, civet, patchouli, castoreum, cedar vetiver
A sensuous blend of aldehydic floral notes and rich mossy undertones. The vibrant top is rich with bergamot, ylang and modern aldehydes. The smooth yet slightly spicy midsection is enlivened by a classic combination of rose, muguet and jasmine. Nuances of carnation, laced with coriander and nutmeg create a signature note that is present at every phase. The undertones are a complex blend of musks, mosses and resins, each harmoniously tuned to highlight the warmth and richness of cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver.

Bottle:


The flacon was designed by sculptor Serge Mansau in 1979. To hold the pure parfum, a black case embedded with a faux diamond contains the signature inkwell shaped crystal bottle, faceted and jewel-like, and a cloth for polishing the pewter cap. The eau de parfum bottle is made up of crystal and has a black plastic screw cap. Bottles were made in France by Pochet et du Courval and Saint Gobain Desjonqueres.




Fate of the Fragrance:


In doing research for this post, I discovered that there might be two versions of Septieme Sens, as it "may" have been reformulated at one time, perhaps when it was relaunched in 1982. It was noted by an online reviewer, that the earlier version was more noticeably leathery and civet, very dry and almost masculine. The second version has a sweeter fruity accord running through that tones down the leather. If this is true, I do not know as I never found any differences in the fragrance samples I have tried.


Discontinued in 1986.






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