Thursday, March 27, 2014

Sheherazade by Jean Desprez c1939

Sheherazade by Jean Desprez: launched in 1939. Named after the famous seductive storyteller of 1001 Nights.



Shéhérazade was originally launched in 1939 and discontinued for many years, but was reformulated and relaunched in 1983. This is the version you will encounter today.

Fragrance Composition:


The 1983 version was reformulated by Marie-Cécile Grenier and IFF perfumers and was based on the original formula created by Jean Desprez in 1939.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde chypre fragrance with fruity, floral notes with spicy and woody overtones.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, orange, chamomile, blackcurrant, bergamot, geranium, pepper berries, nutmeg, cloves and rosewood
  • Middle notes: mimosa, coriander, tarragon, daisy, lily of the valley, hyacinth, gardenia, rose, orange blossom, carnation, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orris and cassis
  • Base notes: patchouli, wormwood, labdanum, tonka, incense, leather, civet, ambergris, pine nuts, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, vetiver, oakmoss, opoponax and benzoin


Bottles:


The crystal flacon, which Perfume Intelligence says was designed by Raymond Guerlain, is a minaret -like replica of an antique 1880s era Bohemian crystal cologne bottle. They also mention that the perfume was housed in a crystal bottle that was designed by Pierre Dinand, whomever created the iconic crystal flacon, it is gorgeous. The perfume was sold exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue.

The 1983 version was available in the following:
  • 1 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1/2 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Splash
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Purse Spray
  • 2 ml Eau de Parfum Splash Mini 
  • 1.66 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray
  • 3.3 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray



New York Magazine, 1983:
"Sheherazade . . . the new fragrance by Jean Desprez is as entrancing as the storyteller who inspired it. Sheherazade minaret-like perfume flacon is a replica of an antique Cristal de Boheme bottle (circa 1880)." 

The New Yorker, 1983:
"The perfume counter has another recently revived old favorite: Sheherazade, by Jean Desprez; $90 for one-half ounce, $150 for one ounce."

La Spectacle du Monde, 1983;
"SHEHERAZADE Dernier né des Parfums Jean DESPREZ, « Shéhérazade » a été défini par Monsieur Denis DESPREZ et composé par sa sœur. Marie-Cécile Grenier. Le titre choisi pour cette nouvelle ligne se veut l'évocation de la femme.." 

Cosmopolitan, 1984:
"The seductive magic of the legendary Sheherazade is captured in the new fragrance of that name from Jean Desprez, the Bal a Versailles perfumer."

Groupe Jeune Afrique Magazine, 1985:
"Nuits d'Orient... Avec Shéhérazade de Jean Desprez. grand classique chypré. 50 ml: 225 FF, atomiseur: 240 FF."

Africa, 1986:
"Rêve de princesse orientale, Shéhérazade de Jean Desprez récèle toute la sensualité de l'Orient. Une composition qui rassemble la richesse du jasmin et la subtilité de la rose. Le santal, le vétiver, la noix de muscade et les baies de piment s'accordant au rythme du cassis et de la fleur d'orangeur. Sheherazade, toute l'émotion d'un chypré aux notes fleurie: et fruitées sur un air des Mille et une nuits."

 Fate of the Fragrance:


I believe that the newer version of Sheherazade was only available until 1986-1987.

Three other companies produced a perfume named Shéhérazade, Goldstein and Lall in 1940, Massenet in 1944, and John L. Priess around 1940. I have never seen any of these fragrances.


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