Thursday, July 17, 2014

Les Parfums de Paquin

Paquin of Paris France, couture house of Jeanne Paquin, .very successful couturier, at 3 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1890; opened a branch in London, introduced perfumes from 1939, merged with Worth in 1954. The couture house closed in 1962.





Paquin used bottles from Baccarat (flacon design #800) for various fragrances. Some of the crystal bottles for Espoir  & Ever After were produced by Baccarat. Habit Rouge (Red Frock) was presented in a small black-glass bottle with a red stone in the stopper by Baccarat. In 1953, Espoir was presented in a small black-glass bottle with a green stone in the stopper.

The perfumes of Paquin:

  • 1939 9 X 9
  • 1939 Habit Rouge
  • 1939 Ever After
  • 1945 Espoir
  • 1945 P2
  • 1948 Lavande
  • 1948 L'Eau de Paquin
  • 1949 No. 9
  • 1953 Goya
  • Monologue
  • Nuit d’Afrique
  • Old Panama
  • Sahara
  • Solfrege



Femme, 1946:
"Marguerite Gauthier, the famous lady of camellias, said she had a predilection for this greenhouse flower "Because it had no smell"... no doubt she wanted to jealously keep all the attraction of it for herself. 'a rare perfume, a strange scent. Not flowery, emanating from her black hair, her lace, her furs; an exclusively feminine perfume. What was this perfume of the lady with the camellias? Alexandre Dumas fils neglected to tell us. We believe we found it very recently in a delicious designer box; but we'll leave it up to you to guess which one. Because Marguerite's perfume was, that is certain, a "dress" perfume: today one would say a designer perfume: which justifies - if it were necessary - the intrusion of the creator of elegance into the garden of sweet smells. It was Paul Poiret, innovative in many things, who first had the idea of launching new perfumes with his new collections; both very avant-garde, sometimes a little noisy...but the idea was beautiful and good. She created a tradition, a guest book; the biggest names sign up every day. It is a way of consecration, for a young fashion house, to in turn create one or more signature perfumes. Let's quickly see together which are among them. The favorites of the chic woman, that is to say the Parisian that you are. Let's start by noting that the perfume of each couturier, inspired by the same trends and the same inclinations as his models, necessarily resembles them and closely contributes to their originality... 
On a different note, very young and even a bit of a "Espoir" de Paquin will enchant blonde Parisians as they come out of the cold days. Its delicate vibration, its flowery grace evoke the spring of France. It has the caprice, the lightness, the penetrating softness, "9 x 9" and "Goya" by Paquin, also, are warmer, more intense: they are better suited to brunettes."



L'Atlantique, 1952:
"Paquin's music box which plays 'The Third Man' or 'La Vie en Rose,' contains three Paquin perfumes, '9 x 9,' 'Ever After' and 'Espoir' in a charming blue box edged in gold, which becomes a cigarette box when bottles are empty. A novelty is the 'Clochette' or bell of black lacquer basketry with a one ounce bottle of perfume on a red setting; this is also a music box!"

Espoir:


La Femme Chic, 1945:

"For those who do not want to wear aggressive perfume, note Recital de Millot with its sweet floral aromas; and more particularly Espoir de Paquin. This delicate creation seems to us to be the 'beginner's' dream perfume, to be recommended to young girls who, without wanting to age, quite rightly have the impression of not yet being a woman as long as they do not have perfume. In Espoir we find the familiar scents of flowers from our home, our gardens and our countryside, from all the seasons and all the provinces. The result is a fresh, fresh scent of exquisite youthfulness."


 L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Espoir by Paquin: it is a beginner's perfume adopted by the romantic and tender young girl; it evokes the innocent promises of a budding femininity and brings together the delicious scents of flowers from our homeland in a single barely sensual bouquet, naively perverse, deliciously young."

Top notes:

Middle notes: 

Base notes: 



9 X 9:

Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:
"Nine by Nine, by Paquin, is neither plant nor flower, It adapts to all ages, to all genders. It is a hybrid, enveloping perfume, which escapes analysis. In a word: the soul of Paris. Like him, he seduces without anyone knowing how, and that's why we love them both."
L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"9x9 by Paquin: Roses, jasmines and amber melted into a deliciously powdery scent. This perfume of sweetness, pride, tenderness and luxury is proof by 9 of success."

Top notes:
Middle notes: jasmine, rose
Base notes: opoponax, amber



Ever After:


L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
 "Ever After by Paquin: promise of summer enclosed in a bottle. The floral note is only a start whose limpidity barely conceals the insidiously ardent theme. Scent of the aristocrat, indifferent to the seasons, and proud of its personality."
Top notes:
Middle notes:
Base notes:

Ever After," a BACCARAT perfume bottle for Paquin, circa 1939, in clear crystal, with label, in elaborate wicker cage with music box base, plays "La Vie en Rose," as bottle revolves. Stenciled BACCARAT. Ht. 2 7/8. Photo courtesy of Rago Arts & Auction Center.


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