Thursday, May 7, 2015

Coriandre by Jean Couturier c1973

Coriandre by Jean Couturier: launched in 1973. Created by Jean's wife, Jacqueline Couturier.





The making of Coriandre proved a challenge for Mme. Couturier, because women's tastes from all over the world had to be considered. She explained that "American women like a heavier, more lasting perfume than the French, for example. More like the scents we preferred in the 1920s.Some of the most popular American fragrances are what we think of as aggressive. I had to strike a half-way note."

"It took eight months to achieve, because the most difficult thing is to have a round perfume, which means a consistency of scent at the various stages," said Mme Couturier. To get the main harmony in Coriandre, which is composed of spicy top notes, floral body notes and woodsy bottom notes, she ran tests on the fragrance, every ten minutes, for six hours, for several days. She was testing to see which scents were lost at what stages. She was happy the final pick was a winner. "It's successful thanks to God."


Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a  floral aldehyde chypre fragrance for women. A golden, modern fragrance, it has a bright topnote that makes it a sophisticated but good companion for spring.
  • Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, coriander, angelica and orange blossom
  • Middle notes: ylang, ylang, rose, Grasse jasmine, orris, lily of the valley and geranium 
  • Base notes: amber, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, civet and musk



Bottles:

Presented in a light green bottle with a large dark green cap designed by Pierre Dinand in 1973. It was manufactured by both Saint Gobain Desjonqueres and Pochet et du Courval with plastic components supplied by Mayet.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Reformulated and relaunched in 1993.


From the website parfums-jeancouturier.fr:
"First of all Coriandre is a Mediterranean flower. Once distilled, it is one of the components of Jacqueline COUTURIER's creation, and CORIANDRE becomes a famous name in the perfumery world. Born in 1973 for the active, attractive and modern woman, CORIANDRE, is going to become the forerunner of a new family of fragrances, the CHYPRÉ-FLORAL. An audacious creation which dares the contrast between fresh notes and hot notes. The essence gently spicy, develop the woody touch of Patchouli, Vetyver and Oak moss and brings out the harmony of Jasmine, of Rose and Ylang-Ylang. The sharpness of this scent made from 119 components constitute a first-class perfume. 36 years after its birth, CORIANDRE belongs to the timeless great classics."


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a  floral chypre fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, coriander, angelica and orange blossom
  • Middle notes: rose, lily, jasmine, geranium, ylang ylang, iris
  • Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood, civet and musk





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