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Thursday, July 30, 2009

Louis Vuitton & Perfumes

When we think of Louis Vuitton, our minds immediately conjure images of opulent travel goods, exquisitely crafted leather accessories, and a legacy of luxury that spans over a century. The notion of Louis Vuitton venturing into the realm of perfumery may seem far-fetched to many. This is a common misconception, with many believing that the esteemed firm never explored the perfume industry. However, I am here to dispel that myth and shed light on Louis Vuitton's fragrant journey.

Historically, the idea of Louis Vuitton and perfumes may not have been synonymous, leading to skepticism and surprise when dubious Louis Vuitton perfumes appeared for sale over the years. These counterfeit fragrances often left enthusiasts questioning the authenticity of the brand's involvement in perfumery. This guide initially aimed to serve as a cautionary tale, warning consumers about the counterfeit products that tarnished the brand's reputation in the fragrance market.

In a significant and celebrated return, Louis Vuitton officially reentered the world of perfumery in September 2016. With this move, the brand reaffirmed its commitment to excellence and innovation, extending its luxury legacy into the olfactory arts. This reentry was not just a marketing strategy but a carefully curated venture, bringing forth a collection of fragrances that embody the sophistication and elegance synonymous with Louis Vuitton. Thus, the myth that Louis Vuitton never dabbled in perfumes is thoroughly debunked, paving the way for a new chapter in the brand's storied history.

Historical Perfumes by Louis Vuitton:


In 1925, Louis Vuitton made its initial foray into the world of perfumery with the release of its first fragrance, Heures d'Absence. This perfume was launched to mark the grand opening of Louis Vuitton's store in London, symbolizing a blend of heritage and innovation. The fragrance was housed in a limited edition rectangular bottle, with only 300 numbered examples ever made, adding an aura of exclusivity and rarity to the release. The bottle itself was crafted from clear glass, its front adorned with the image of an airplane and emblazoned with the inscription "Heures d'Absence Louis Vuitton." This elegant design choice reflected the spirit of the era, capturing the excitement and glamour associated with early aviation. Georges Vuitton, the son of the brand's founder, named the perfume after his villa "Heures d'Absence," imbuing it with a personal and nostalgic touch.

A few years later, in 1928, Fairchild's publication provided further insight into the sophisticated presentation of Heures d'Absence. The article highlighted that Louis Vuitton, known primarily as a Parisian accessory maker, had been designing its own perfume bottles for some time. The perfume was presented in a modernist gold box, which housed the crystal flacon, showcasing the brand's commitment to luxurious and innovative design. This modernist approach to packaging was in keeping with the avant-garde trends of the time, further cementing Louis Vuitton's reputation for elegance and cutting-edge style. Heures d'Absence was more than just a fragrance; it was a symbol of the brand's expansion into new territories while maintaining its dedication to quality and craftsmanship.

Fairchild's, 1928:
"The Parisian accessory maker, Vuitton, who has for some time been designing his own bottles, presents a new perfume, Heures d'Absence, in a modernist gold box with crystal flacon."



 

In 1985, Louis Vuitton commemorated the 60th anniversary of the opening of its London boutique with a special limited edition replica presentation of its historic perfume, Heures d'Absence. This celebratory edition paid homage to the original 1925 launch, meticulously recreating the bottle and presentation box to echo the elegance and sophistication of its predecessor. Rectangular bottle, decoration depicting an airplane and titled "Heures d'absence Louis Vuitton Paris". Glass ball shaped stopper. The replica was a testament to Louis Vuitton's enduring legacy and attention to detail, ensuring that every element reflected the grandeur and exclusivity of the initial release. Limited series of 300 copies.

The limited edition bottle, standing at a height of 10 cm, was crafted to mirror the clear glass design of the original, complete with the same rectangular shape. The front of the bottle was adorned with the iconic airplane image and the inscription "Heures d'Absence Louis Vuitton," capturing the essence of the 1925 aesthetic. The presentation box, too, was recreated with the same meticulous care, featuring the modernist gold design that housed the crystal flacon. This revival not only celebrated the historical significance of Heures d'Absence but also reinforced Louis Vuitton's commitment to preserving its heritage while continuing to innovate. The 1985 limited edition served as a bridge between the past and present, allowing a new generation of perfume enthusiasts to experience a piece of Louis Vuitton's storied history.






Around 1925, another exquisite version of the Heures d'Absence bottle was crafted, showcasing a delicate amphora-shaped flacon with an elongated neck. This design diverged from the rectangular bottle initially associated with the fragrance, offering an alternative that highlighted the artistic and elegant sensibilities of the era. The amphora-shaped flacon was a testament to the craftsmanship and attention to detail that Louis Vuitton was known for, emphasizing the brand's dedication to producing not just perfumes, but true works of art.

The flacon was made from blown glass, resulting in an exceptionally thin and fragile vessel. Its delicate construction added to its allure, making it a prized possession for those fortunate enough to acquire it. The amphora shape, with its gracefully curved body and slender neck, exuded a sense of timeless beauty and sophistication. This design choice reflected the luxurious and refined nature of Heures d'Absence, enhancing the overall experience of the fragrance.

The fragility of the blown glass flacon underscored the care and precision required in its creation, highlighting the artisanal skills involved in its production. This amphora-shaped bottle was not only a container for the perfume but also a symbol of Louis Vuitton's commitment to excellence in every aspect of their craft. By offering such a beautifully designed and meticulously crafted bottle, Louis Vuitton ensured that Heures d'Absence would be remembered not just for its scent, but for its visual and tactile elegance as well.




In 1927, Louis Vuitton expanded its foray into perfumery by creating three more perfumes, presented together in an innovative and sophisticated set titled "Je, Tu, Il," which translates from French to "I, You, He." This trio of fragrances was cleverly designed to convey a sense of intimacy and connection, reflecting the different facets of human relationships and experiences.

The name "Je, Tu, Il," translating to "I, You, He" in English, evokes a sense of personal connection and intimacy, reflecting the various facets and dynamics of human relationships. This naming choice by Louis Vuitton for the 1927 perfume trio is both evocative and deeply meaningful, aligning with the nature of perfume as a personal and emotive experience.

Perfume is often an intimate accessory, closely associated with one's identity and personal aura. The name "Je, Tu, Il" suggests a narrative or a journey of connection, encompassing the self ("Je"), the intimate other ("Tu"), and an external presence ("Il"). This progression can symbolize the way fragrances interact with different people and settings, creating unique impressions and memories.

By naming the perfumes "Je, Tu, Il," Louis Vuitton was likely aiming to highlight the emotional and relational aspects of fragrance. Each scent in the trio could represent different stages or aspects of a relationship, from the self-awareness and confidence of "Je," to the closeness and affection of "Tu," and the broader social interactions implied by "Il." This concept resonates with the multifaceted nature of human experiences and how perfumes can enhance and reflect these moments.

The name also corresponds to the perfume in a way that emphasizes personalization and versatility. Just as the bottles can be stacked in any order, the different fragrances can be layered or chosen based on the wearer’s mood or the occasion. This flexibility and personalization reflect the dynamic and ever-changing nature of human relationships and personal identity.

Each perfume in the "Je, Tu, Il" collection was housed in a separate but identical bottle, meticulously crafted to fit seamlessly into one another. The design allowed the bottles to be stacked in any order, emphasizing the interchangeable and harmonious nature of the set. These bottles, much like the earlier Heures d'Absence flacons, were made from very thin and fragile glass, showcasing the delicate artistry that Louis Vuitton was renowned for.

The perfumes were elegantly encased in a cylindrical gold paper box, with the name "Je, Tu, Il" printed in a circular fashion on its surface, adding a touch of modernist flair to the packaging. This inner box was then placed inside a sturdy outer box, further protecting the fragile bottles. The outer box was wrapped in paper adorned with Louis Vuitton's symbols of ships and trains, a nod to the brand's illustrious heritage in travel luggage manufacturing. These motifs reinforced the connection between Louis Vuitton's legacy in crafting luxurious travel goods and its burgeoning reputation in the world of perfumery.

The intricate packaging and presentation of "Je, Tu, Il" not only highlighted the brand's commitment to excellence but also its innovative approach to product design. By creating a set that was both visually striking and functionally unique, Louis Vuitton ensured that "Je, Tu, Il" would be remembered as a masterpiece of both fragrance and design, encapsulating the spirit of luxury and craftsmanship that defined the brand.

In summary, the name "Je, Tu, Il" evokes a sense of intimacy, connection, and the multifaceted nature of human relationships. It aligns with the essence of perfume as a personal and emotive accessory, highlighting the role of fragrance in expressing and enhancing the various dimensions of our interactions and experiences.






Louis Vuitton’s exploration of perfumery in the early 20th century extended beyond the "Je, Tu, Il" collection with the creation of two additional fragrances: Sur la Route in the 1920s and Reminiscences in 1946. Sur la Route, which translates to "On the Road," evokes a sense of journey and adventure, a fitting theme for a brand synonymous with luxury travel. This perfume likely aimed to capture the essence of travel, freedom, and the open road, reflecting the spirit of discovery and exploration that is at the heart of Louis Vuitton's heritage. Reminiscences, on the other hand, suggests a fragrance steeped in nostalgia, designed to evoke memories and emotions associated with past experiences. Both of these perfumes were crafted in a period marked by creativity and innovation within the brand.

Also in 1946, Louis Vuitton introduced one final perfume, Eau de Voyage, further cementing its connection to the theme of travel. The name, which translates to "Travel Water," reinforces the brand’s legacy in creating luxurious travel goods. Eau de Voyage was designed to evoke the freshness and vitality associated with travel, encapsulating the sense of adventure and the allure of distant destinations. This final fragrance was part of a very limited production run, making it an extremely rare find today, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts alike.

These perfume presentations, much like their predecessors, were produced in very limited quantities, contributing to their rarity and exclusivity. The meticulous craftsmanship and innovative designs of these perfumes reflected Louis Vuitton’s dedication to quality and luxury. Despite the success and artistry of these fragrances, Louis Vuitton ceased its perfumery endeavors after these limited introductions. The discontinuation of perfume production marked the end of an era for the brand, leaving behind a legacy of rare and sought-after fragrances that continue to captivate collectors and perfume aficionados to this day.



Special Perfume Bottles:


Among the most elusive treasures in the world of Louis Vuitton perfumes are the special editions, particularly the extremely rare antique Art Deco perfume bottles and original sketches designed by Camille Cless-Brothier in the early 1920s. These items represent a unique fusion of art and fragrance, encapsulating the avant-garde spirit of the Art Deco era and the innovative craftsmanship for which Louis Vuitton is renowned. The bottles themselves are masterpieces of design, characterized by their geometric shapes, bold lines, and luxurious materials, reflecting the opulence and sophistication of the period.

Camille Cless-Brothier's original sketches provide a fascinating glimpse into the creative process behind these exquisite designs. These drawings not only showcase the meticulous attention to detail and artistic vision that went into each bottle but also highlight the collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Cless-Brothier in bringing these stunning creations to life. The sketches are invaluable artifacts, offering insight into the brand's artistic heritage and the evolution of its design aesthetics.

The following photos, graciously shared by the humble fabulist and edited by me, offer a rare visual documentation of these remarkable pieces. Each image captures the elegance and intricacy of the Art Deco bottles, allowing us to appreciate the craftsmanship and artistry that define these special editions. These rare items are highly coveted by collectors and enthusiasts, not only for their beauty and historical significance but also for their rarity. Finding one of these antique perfume bottles or original sketches is akin to discovering a piece of Louis Vuitton's storied legacy, a testament to the brand's enduring commitment to luxury and innovation.

In the context of Louis Vuitton's broader history, these special editions stand out as extraordinary examples of the brand's ability to blend functionality with artistic expression. They serve as reminders of a time when perfume was not just a fragrance but a statement of style and elegance, housed in bottles that were works of art in their own right. These rare pieces continue to captivate and inspire, embodying the timeless appeal and artistic heritage of Louis Vuitton.




L’Arbre Pleureur, which translates to "The Weeping Tree," is an exquisite hand-enameled crystal perfume bottle from 1922, designed by Camille Cless-Brothier. This Art Deco masterpiece is missing its inner stopper and enameled over cap, yet it still exudes an undeniable elegance. The style of painting on this bottle is reminiscent of the work by the artist "Alix," known for her hand enameling on various perfume bottles during the Art Deco period. The intricate enamel work on L’Arbre Pleureur captures the delicate and flowing aesthetic typical of Alix's artistry, blending beautifully with the crystal form. The design by Cless-Brothier highlights the synergy between functional beauty and artistic expression, making L’Arbre Pleureur a coveted piece for collectors and a testament to the era's luxurious craftsmanship



 
The bottle shown above features a striking depiction of a colonial-era lady, distinguished by her tall pompadour hairstyle, which immediately evokes the elegance and sophistication of the period. She is adorned in a unique cloak over a pinstriped dress, a combination that showcases the attention to detail and fashion sensibilities of the era. The black enameling used for the clothing highlights the precision and skill required to create such intricate designs, while the polychrome enamel on the figural head stopper adds a touch of vibrant color and realism to the portrayal.

This combination of black and polychrome enameling not only enhances the visual appeal of the bottle but also demonstrates the advanced techniques employed by artisans of the time. The contrast between the stark black clothing and the richly colored head stopper creates a captivating effect, drawing the viewer's eye to the fine details and the lifelike representation of the lady.

The over cap, which would have been made of black enameled metal, completes the design with a touch of sleek sophistication. This cap not only serves a practical purpose but also adds to the overall aesthetic, maintaining the bottle's cohesive and elegant look. The use of black enamel on the metal cap ties together the various elements of the design, reinforcing the luxurious and refined nature of the piece.

Overall, this bottle is a stunning example of Art Deco craftsmanship, combining functionality with artistic expression. The depiction of the colonial lady, with her elaborate hairstyle and distinctive attire, serves as a reminder of the era's fascination with historical and cultural motifs. The meticulous enameling work showcases the skill and creativity of the artisans, making this bottle a treasured artifact for collectors and enthusiasts alike.



This stunning crystal bottle is a marvel of craftsmanship, meticulously hand-etched using a copper wheel to create a charming and detailed scene. The design features a plump child seated in a fountain, with delicate jets of water spraying over him, capturing a moment of playful innocence and joy. The etching showcases the artisan's skill in rendering intricate details, from the gentle ripples of the water to the soft contours of the child's form.

The child is highlighted with a light patina of flesh-colored enamel, adding a lifelike warmth to the figure. The use of brown enamel for the child's hair further enhances the realistic quality of the depiction, creating a subtle contrast that brings the scene to life. The combination of the clear crystal with the carefully applied enamels creates a visually captivating effect, blending artistry with fine craftsmanship.

The over cap of the bottle is crafted from sterling silver, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication to the piece. The cap would have been fitted with an inner glass stopper, ensuring the preservation of the perfume and maintaining the bottle's functionality. The sterling silver cap not only complements the intricate design of the bottle but also adds a luxurious finishing touch.

Overall, this crystal bottle exemplifies a harmonious blend of artistic expression and practical design. The detailed etching and thoughtful use of enamel highlight the artisan's dedication to creating a piece that is both beautiful and functional. This bottle stands as a testament to the exquisite craftsmanship of its era, making it a cherished collectible for those who appreciate the artistry of fine perfume bottles.



Louis Vuitton Perfumes Today:


As of September 2016, Louis Vuitton has made a remarkable return to the world of perfumery, unveiling a new collection of seven exquisite fragrances designed to enchant and captivate the senses. This reentry into the fragrance market marks a significant moment for the brand, which had previously stepped away from the perfume industry after its early 20th-century ventures.

Each of the seven new fragrances reflects Louis Vuitton's commitment to luxury and innovation, embodying the brand's signature elegance and sophistication. The scents are crafted with the utmost attention to detail, utilizing high-quality ingredients to create unique and memorable olfactory experiences. From fresh and invigorating notes to deep and complex aromas, the collection offers a diverse range of options to suit various preferences and moods.

These fragrances are available exclusively at Louis Vuitton boutiques and on their official website, ensuring that they remain a symbol of the brand’s refined and selective approach. The decision to limit availability to their own stores and online platform underscores the exclusivity and premium nature of the collection, allowing customers to experience these new creations in a setting that reflects the brand's heritage and standards.

The reintroduction of Louis Vuitton perfumes marks a new chapter in the brand's storied history, combining modern sensibilities with the timeless allure of classic luxury. The exclusive availability of these fragrances highlights Louis Vuitton's dedication to providing a unique and personal fragrance experience, accessible only through their carefully curated retail channels.

Bottles were designed by Marc Newson. Specially developed machines at Louis Vuitton boutiques offer refills for about 60% of the original retail price to commemorate a recently restored perfume fountain at the brand's Grasse headquarters that spouted a mimosa scent in January 2016, followed by a violet in February 2017 and so on.




Formats:
  • Spray 100ml ($240) and Spray 200ml ($350)
  • Travel Spray. Created to accompany any trip, this set includes a travel bottle as well as four 7.5ml cartridges. Designed with magnetic closures, these novel refills clip instinctively onto the atomizer. In moments, the travel bottle is primed and ready for a new adventure. ($240)
  • Travel Spray refills. Refills to be used exclusively with the Louis Vuitton Travel Spray. ($130) 


Rose de Vents:

"A whisper of petals opens up new horizons. A navigator’s indispensable tool, the rose des vents – or compass – is the traveler’s faithful companion. An olfactory guide, Maître Parfumeur Jacques Cavallier Belletrud transports us to the middle of a field of roses in Grasse. Buffeted by the wind, this singular flower seems to breathe. Sleek and stately thanks to iris and cedar, this perfume takes on glazed accents as it comes into contact with pepper. Gradually, the composition becomes as delicate as the skin of a velvety fruit. As golden as the first light of day." The fragrance of the roses was created by using a carbon dioxide extraction of the proprietary May rose that draws out the "most fragile part of the smell."
  • Centifolia rose absolute
  • Turkish rose essence
  • Bulgarian rose essence
  • Florentine iris
  • Virginia cedar

Contre Moi:
"An unexpected vanilla in a fusional embrace. Contre Moi evokes the fusion of two travelers. A sensual outpouring that lets emotions rush to the surface. Ever fascinated by vanilla, Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud transports it to uncharted territory by giving it unprecedented freshness. Madagascar and Tahitensis vanilla blend in a delicate tulle of orange flower, rose and magnolia petals. A subtle touch of bitter cocoa reaffirms the perfume’s rebellious temperament."
  • Infusion of vanilla from Madagascar
  • Essence of vanilla from Madagascar 
  • Tahitian vanilla 
  • Orange blossom
  • Rose centifolia from Grasse
  • Essence of magnolia from China
  • Ambrette seeds


Matiere Noire:

"A blend of dark wood and white flowers ventures into a world of mystery. Exploring the universe is the ultimate travel fantasy and most thrilling adventure. Matière Noire plumbs intangible depths with a journey through the darkest, most precious woods, namely patchouli and Laos agarwood. The agarwood’s animal notes are intensified by blackcurrant and contrasted with the whiteness of narcissus and jasmine, a floral vibration that cuts the darkness like a comet. Plumes of sacred notes unfurl on the skin. The disruption is total, almost mystical."
  • Laos agarwood 
  • Sambac jasmine 
  • Narcissus
  • Rose centifolia
  • Cyclamen
  • Patchouli
  • Incense

Mille Feux:

"An incandescent fusion of raspberry and leather creates an ode to light. A golden ray, a starlit sky, the aurora borealis: light contributes to the magic of travel. To capture its incandescence, Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud sought a color to weave into this theme. On a visit to one of Louis Vuitton’s leather ateliers, he saw a craftsman transforming raspberry-colored leather into a luxurious handbag. The skin as bright as ripe fruit gave him an idea: to associate the scent of leather with that of the berry. He shaped the composition with osmanthus, a white flower with an animal and apricot scent, iris and saffron. Mille Feux is like an emotional bombshell. Fireworks." This perfume was inspired by a red Capucines bag in Louis Vuitton's Asniere-sur -Seine atelier in Paris.
  • Leather infusion
  • Raspberry
  • Osmanthus from China
  • Florentine Iris concrete
  • Saffron


Turbulences:

"An extreme tuberose to stir the heart
Discovering faraway lands can sometimes feel like soaring among the clouds. Inspired by a feeling akin to love at first sight, the perfume Turbulences pays tribute to the most narcotic of flowers: the tuberose. Here, it fuses with the most precious petals of jasmine. A light touch of leather, and you swoon. Intensely. Deliciously."  Turbulences re-imagines the fusion of 1,000 tuberose and 2,000 jasmine plants in Belletrud's personal garden during a midnight stroll in August with his father. He made a promise to "put this smell in my head and put it in a bottle one day."
  • Tuberose from India
  • Jasmin grandiflorum from Grasse
  • Absolute of jasmine sambac from China
  • May rose

Dans le Peau:

"An infusion of leather, an invitation to explore the senses
Traveling often has the power to embolden desire. Dans La Peau imprints on the skin like indelible ink. An exclusive infusion of natural leather from Louis Vuitton’s workshops intertwined with accents of almost-candied apricot, jasmine from Grasse and sambac jasmine from China. Then absolute of narcissus appears, followed by a chorus of musk. Dans la Peau does not feign desire. It lays it bare." The perfume is an ode to the scent of the brand's natural leather' scraps, previously destroyed to maintain exclusivity, were recycled, steeped in alcohol and infused with musk and jasmine. The name means 'Under my Skin."
  • Infusion of natural leather
  • Jasmine from Grasse
  • Absolute of narcissus
  • Musk
  • Magnolia from China

Apogee:

"The lily-of-the-valley ascends to blissful heights. Some getaways let us reconnect with ourselves by placing us before the immensity of nature. The chance to commune with the planet feels like a renaissance. Apogée illustrates this sensation with a poetic elixir of innocence. A radiant lily-of-the-valley enlaces with petals of jasmine, magnolia and rose. A base of subtly smoky guaiac wood and sandalwood essence support the bouquet like slender stems reaching skyward." Apogee (Peak_ is dedicated to the classic lily of the valley and the Japanese art of floral arrangement known as ikebana.
  • Lily-of-the-valley
  • Jasmine from Grasse
  • Magnolia from China
  • Gaiac wood
  • Sandalwood essence


Examples of Fake Louis Vuitton Perfumes:

All the "Louis Vuitton" perfumes below can be found today are fake. I have found many of these on Asian websites. Sometimes they make their way onto ebay, craigslist and other sites like ecrater. All of the pictures below are of Louis Vuitton fake perfumes.









Pictures from various sources on the web.

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