Carnet de Bal by Revillon c1937

Carnet de Bal was launched in 1937 by Revillon of Paris. It was created by Maurice Shaller.

Originally a representative for perfumery glassware, M. Schaller was invited to run Paul Poiret's perfume department. He then took a keen interest in perfume technology and later created such excellent perfumes as Revillon's Carnet de Bal.

The perfume was named after the 1937 movie, Un Carnet de Bal — An episodic, star- studded film, directed by Julien Duvivier, that had a great success here in the emerging foreign film theatres and was widely imitated in Hollywood and Europe.

Perfumery and Essential Oil Record, 1938:

"Revillon are preparing a delicate new perfume, Carnet de Bal, and it is no secret that the packing will be of waltz - period design, and will recall the French film which has proved so successful in London."

During World War II, the perfume seems to have been put on hiatus and returned in 1947.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It was originally created to be worn by young women. I would say it is a green oriental fragrance punctuated with robust spices and fresh floral notes layered over a chypre base. Top notes of acacia, lily of the valley and hyacinth layered over lavender, jasmin, rose, heliotrope, and coriander, resting on a base of ambergris, vetiver and spices.

• Top notes: aldehyde, citrus, bergamot, fruits, acacia, lily of the valley, heliotrope, hyacinth
• Middle notes: lavender, tuberose, Roman chamomile, cyclamen, rose, Florentine iris, Grasse jasmine, peach, lily and Madagascan ylang-ylang, coriander
• Base notes: spices, benzoin, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, ambergris, patchouli, Massif oakmoss, vanilla, civet and musk

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Carnet de Bal by Revillon: Contains real calvados from Normandy. Very original perfume, a lot of amount. Silent, modest, she likes to go unnoticed. And yet, without it, the life of those she loves would be a desert. Its discreet fragrance and of a rare quality."

1948:

"Called Carnet de Bal, it is light and appealing perfume. Cologne comes in the same scent so you may rest assured that your fragrances will always match. The enchanting Carnet de Bal by Parfums Revillon of Paris."

Cue, 1949:

"Things Parisian have a strong fascination for Americans and the real connoisseurs are enthusiastic now that the French perfumes have been coming in again in greater abundance. Back with us in quantity is Carnet de Bal"

Harper's Bazaar, 1953:

"Special pungence to mix with fur and snow-scented air — Revillon's "Carnet de Bal" perfume."

Combat, 1955:

"Carnet de Bal (perfumed cologne) by Revillon - for the melee of the white dresses of the casino, whose windows let in the nocturnal breath laden with iodine, we will choose the extract, but we will prefer, after the bath of sun, perfumed water whose ambrosiac tuft is less treacherous. Lily of the valley, rose, heliotrope, acacia and hyacinth find themselves freer to engage in their natural colloquies with the sun."

1955:

"A perfume that is as refreshing and different as a rainbow on Christmas eve! ... It's Carnet de Bal by Revillon of Paris."

1955:

"This is Carnet de Bal by Revillon of Paris. It is a superb scent one that warms on the flesh to tones of sweetness that invariably are a magnet."

1959:

"Revillon, Inc. in the United States and Canada. Revillon is a French company. At present, Revillon distributes two of its perfumes in this country, Carnet de Bal and Detchema."

1960:

"Such are Revillon's two brilliant and classic perfumes Carnet de Bal and Detchema. Originally created to go with the magnificent furs; the sables and ermines."

Harper's Bazaar, 1960:

"Carnet de Bal- Revillon's indescribable scent— as fresh as all outdoors, as enchanting as field flowers."

1961:

"Carnet de Bal captivatingly combines florals and spices from all over the world."

The Flacons:

The prices for the fragrance in 1960 were:

• 1/2 oz Parfum: $12.50 
• 1 oz Parfum:  $24.75
• 2 oz Parfum: $49.00
• 3 oz Parfum:  $73.50 
• 5 oz Parfum:  $122.50 
• 1/4 oz $4 Parfum in purse flacon
• 1/2 oz Parfum in purse flacons $6.50
• Eau de Toilette $3.75 to $10

Brandy Snifter Flacon:

The original bottle for Carnet de Bal is an upside down brandy snifter shaped flacon and was used exclusively for the parfum. The earlier bottles were simply etched with matching numbers on the base and stopper plug. These early bottles have the Revillon ram logo cut intaglio on the top of the stopper. These bottles were housed in light peach colored presentation boxes. 

The numbers below are found on the boxes to denote size of bottle. I have taken the liberty of deciphering the numbers for you and their corresponding bottles so if you have a sealed box and don't wish to open it, you'll have an idea of what bottle is inside. This is not a complete list, I will add more as I find them.

• No. 901 = 1/2 oz Parfum (brandy snifter flacon)
• No. 902 = 1 oz Parfum (brandy snifter flacon)
• No. 903 = 2 oz Parfum (brandy snifter flacon)
• No. 921 = 1/2 oz Parfum  (screwcap bottle)
• No. 922 = 1 oz Parfum (screwcap bottle)
• No. 9211 = 2 oz (screwcap bottle)
• No. 955 - 1/8 oz Parfum (amphora "bibelot" flacon)
• No. 2102 = 1/2 oz Parfum (screwcap bottle)
• No. 2110 = 1 oz Parfum
• No. 9100 = 1/2 oz Parfum  (brandy snifter flacon)
• No. 9007 = 1/4 oz Parfum (spiral flacon)
• No. 9008 = 4 oz EDT
• No. 9416 = 2 oz EDC (screwcap bottle)
• No. 52407 = 1/4 oz Parfum de Toilette mini

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Revillon’s Carnet de Bal, in a crystal bottle you’ll treasure long after the contents have vanished, is a delicious floral scent any woman would like; at Bonwit."

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Revillon: Carnet de Bal, new, luxurious, feminine. Amou Daria in vast, square crystal bottles ; it’s a blended, concentrated toilet water, mostly lilac, apparently; $8.50. The bath oil, brisk and verbena-ish, can also be used as a friction rub; $19.50 (Revillon and Bonwit Teller)."

The later bottles are molded with "Revillon Paris Made in France" on the base and the letter R cut intaglio on the top of the stopper. These editions can be found housed in white boxes covered in paper embossed with a geometric pattern, the box is further enhanced with a green satin ribbon which wraps around the box horizontally. Other bottles were housed in cylindrical boxes covered in white paper featuring a stylized green leaves or feather pattern.

If your brandy snifter bottle is missing it's label and you are unsure of the volume of your bottle, here is a quick guide for you:

• 0.5 oz parfum bottle stands just under 2" tall
• 5/6 oz bottle stands 2 5/8" tall.
• 1 oz parfum bottle stands just under 2.5" tall.
• 1.5 oz parfum bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 1 2/3 oz bottle stands 2.75" tall.
• 2 oz stands 3" tall 
• 3 oz stands 3.5" tall
• 5 oz bottle stands 4" tall 

Stage, 1937:

"Revillon. The newest perfume is called "Carnet de Bal" which is the French way of saying "dance program" and appears in very de luxe bottles. The three ounce one is $37.50. The five ounce one is $62.50."

Other Parfum Bottles:

Other bottles were created for the parfum.

Square splash bottle:

A harder to find bottle is the one spiral amphora crystal flacon created for various parfums by Revillon. It was presented with a black velvet pouch and cylindrical box. The bottle measures just 3.5" long and was a handy size to keep inside the purse.

Mademoiselle, 1961:

"A spiraling bottle inspired by a crystal antique — and Carnet de Bal perfume. By Revillon. $6.60."

A rare presentation is the presentations from Western Airlines. The bottle is a mini purse size flacon of the spiral shaped bottle and came in a little box which had a small tag that read "Western Airlines and Parfums Revillon of Paris proudly present Carnet de Bal."

ASTA Travel News, 1955:

"Service on Western begins with such extra luxuries as reserved seats, filet mignon, and vintage champagne. Western stresses the festive, friendly touches, like a gift of rare perfume for the ladies. It all adds up to an exquisite climax -a superb gift of rare perfume! Western Airlines and Parfums Revillon of Paris proudly present Carnet de Bal."

Metropolitan Magazine, 1956,

“A new personal service to keep the wives of flying business men happy. The stewardesses obtain the traveler’s business card and turn it over to Western’s sales personnel. Within a few days, the lady receives her personal bottle of French Carnet de Bal perfume with a note of appreciation for being patient while Western served the man in her life. The program is extended to mothers, sisters and secretaries for single men.”

Eau de Toilette, Parfum de Toilette, & Eau de Cologne Bottles:

Later bottles would be created for various concentrations, such as the eau de cologne and the eau de toilette.

1947:

"A truly romantic gift for a sweetheart or a wife was a bottle of carnet de bal perfume The bottle is shaped like a heart. The price is $15.00."

 The Fate of the Fragrance:

Carnet de Bal was discontinued sometime between 1974-1985.

In 2011, Revillon returned to its legacy of fragrance and reissued a limited-edition series of its Detchema fragrance, originally launched in 1953. Available exclusively in the new store, which quietly opened in mid-September 2011, only 1,000 100-ml. units of the scent had been produced, each retailing for 180 euros, or $234 at current exchange. Housed in a reinterpreted version of its bottle design from the Seventies, they claimed that the fragrance’s formula remained unchanged.