Cinnabar by Estee Lauder c1978

 In 1978, the world was captivated by a fascination with the exotic and the mysterious, particularly as it related to Eastern cultures. This period saw a burgeoning interest in themes that evoked luxury, mystique, and the allure of distant lands, often referred to as "Oriental" in the context of art, fashion, and fragrance. The launch of Estee Lauder's Cinnabar came at a time when cultural depictions of the Orient were popular in various forms of media, including film. Movies like "The Man Who Would Be King" (1975) and "The Thief of Baghdad" (1978) indulged in romanticized portrayals of Eastern locales, contributing to a broader cultural trend that embraced the mystique and opulence of these settings.

Estee Lauder's choice of the name "Cinnabar" for her new fragrance was deeply symbolic and aligned with this cultural fascination. Cinnabar is a bright red mineral that has been historically used to produce the pigment vermilion, a color often associated with wealth, power, and the exotic in many Eastern cultures. The mineral itself, a form of mercury sulfide, has been used in traditional Chinese and Japanese art and decoration, symbolizing both beauty and danger due to its toxic properties. The name "Cinnabar" thus evoked a rich tapestry of associations: the luxurious allure of the Orient, the vibrant and potent nature of the pigment, and the sense of something rare and precious.

The choice of this name also connected to the perfume's sensory profile. Created by the talented perfumers Bernard Chant and Josephine Catapano, Cinnabar was designed to capture the exoticism and intensity of Oriental fragrances. It featured a rich blend of spices, florals, and amber, creating a warm, inviting, and somewhat mysterious scent. The perfume's composition was meant to evoke the opulent and complex aromas associated with Eastern markets and spices, much like the imagery of cinnabar as a rare and luxurious substance.

In the context of the late 1970s, Cinnabar fit seamlessly into a cultural moment that celebrated the exotic and the luxurious. The perfume capitalized on the public's fascination with Oriental aesthetics, offering a sensory escape to distant lands filled with spice, warmth, and intrigue. The decision to pivot from the planned Soft Youth Dew to Cinnabar demonstrated Estee Lauder's keen awareness of market trends and her ability to adapt quickly to changing consumer desires. By choosing the name "Cinnabar," Estee Lauder not only aligned her fragrance with the era's fascination with the Orient but also imbued it with a sense of mystery and allure that resonated deeply with the zeitgeist of the time.

The Beginning:

 

Yves Saint Laurent's Opium, launched in 1977, quickly became a hallmark of the era's fascination with exotic and luxurious fragrances. This Oriental perfume distinguished itself with its lively, sparkling spice notes, which added a unique vibrancy. Unlike Estee Lauder's classic Youth Dew, which was known for its rich, sweet, and heavy composition, Opium offered a more nuanced and lighter experience, while still embracing the depth characteristic of Oriental scents. Its debut in Paris was nothing short of sensational, capturing widespread attention and becoming the talk of the fashion and beauty world.

At around the same time, Estee Lauder was preparing to introduce a new fragrance: a lighter version of her iconic Youth Dew, which she called Soft Youth Dew. The concept was to retain all the elements that made the original Youth Dew unforgettable, but in a softer, more contemporary formulation. This new scent was intended to appeal to those looking for a subtler alternative to the original's bold and opulent profile.

"Everything that made Estée Lauder's original fragrance so unforgettable is still here. It is all just a little softer. Now Estée Lauder brings you her new Soft YOUTH-DEW."

However, the launch of Opium overshadowed these plans. Estee Lauder, in an interview with Women’s Wear Daily on September 22, 1978, expressed her shock at discovering that Yves Saint Laurent had preempted her with an opulent Oriental fragrance. The realization that Opium had captured the market's attention with its intoxicating blend led Lauder to rethink her strategy. Recognizing the need to respond to this new benchmark in luxury perfumes, she decided to scrap the Soft Youth Dew concept.

In a swift and decisive move, Estee Lauder reimagined the fragrance, had it slightly altered and launched it as Cinnabar. This newly crafted perfume, created by the talented perfumers Bernard Chant and Josephine Catapano, offered a similarly exotic and rich experience to that of Opium. Cinnabar was designed to evoke the same heady pleasures, embracing a warm and spicy Oriental profile. However, the launch was so rushed that some of the initial Cinnabar bottles still bore the familiar Soft Youth Dew packaging, adorned with red tops, which led to some confusion among customers.

Cinnabar was not merely a new name; it represented a significant rebranding and repositioning of Estee Lauder's fragrance portfolio. While it retained the luxurious and exotic elements of Youth Dew, it also introduced a fresh, vibrant twist that resonated with the market's evolving tastes. The quick adaptation and rebranding highlighted Estee Lauder's agility in responding to market trends and her commitment to maintaining a strong presence in the competitive fragrance industry.

Cinnabar was introduced in the late 1970s as the new iteration of Estee Lauder's iconic fragrance, Youth Dew, specifically designed to resonate with the trends of the 1980s. Estee Lauder infused Cinnabar with deep spice notes, creating a warm and inviting scent that retained the luxurious and exotic essence of its predecessor. The fragrance was enveloped in rich "Cinnabar Red," a hue inspired by a pair of carved cinnabar earrings owned by Evelyn, a detail that added a personal touch to the perfume's aesthetic. Unbeknownst to Lauder at the time, the design incorporated an ancient Oriental symbol of good luck, which turned out to be a fortuitous and serendipitous choice, aligning perfectly with the exotic and auspicious themes often associated with Eastern culture.

To ensure the success of Cinnabar and to compete with Yves Saint Laurent's Opium, Estee Lauder launched a "massive ad campaign" for the fragrance. Industry sources indicated that Lauder allocated significant advertising dollars to a multi-product campaign, which included a substantial one million dollar investment specifically for Cinnabar. This strategic push was essential in positioning Cinnabar as a formidable contender in the market, particularly given Opium's established presence and luxury price point of $100 per ounce. In contrast, Cinnabar was priced at half of Opium's cost, a move that not only made it more accessible to a broader audience but also allowed it to outperform its competitor in sales.

In a 1980 feature, New York Magazine described Cinnabar as Estee Lauder's fragrance for the 1980s, highlighting its deep spice notes and the opulent, lacquer red packaging that distinguished it. The magazine's description encapsulated the fragrance's appeal, emphasizing the warmth and richness of its composition. Cinnabar's marketing emphasized not just the scent but also the experience of luxury and opulence it promised, tapping into the consumer's desire for a sophisticated and exotic fragrance. This comprehensive approach to product design and marketing ensured that Cinnabar resonated with the tastes of the time, securing its place as a beloved classic in Estee Lauder's fragrance lineup.

Success spawns imitations:

In response to the success of luxurious Oriental fragrances like Yves Saint Laurent's Opium and Estee Lauder's Cinnabar, Parfums de Coeur introduced a more affordable alternative named Ninja. This fragrance was designed to capture the essence and appeal of the high-end scents but at a fraction of the cost. The marketing strategy for Ninja capitalized on its affordability, making it accessible to a broader audience who desired a similar olfactory experience without the premium price tag.

To promote Ninja, Parfums de Coeur launched a national advertising campaign, targeting popular magazines such as Working Woman and Good Housekeeping. The campaign's tagline highlighted a survey in which a majority of beauty editors reportedly preferred Ninja over the more expensive Opium and Cinnabar. This bold claim was paired with an enticing offer: a special "get acquainted" size of the fragrance, featuring a 0.3 oz. spray cologne available for just $2.50. The full-sized product was priced at an attractive $5.00, positioning Ninja as an unbeatable value compared to Opium, which retailed at around $30, and Cinnabar at $18.50. The ad effectively communicated that for the price-conscious consumer, Ninja was an opportunity to experience a similar luxury scent profile without breaking the bank.

Despite the continued availability of Opium and Cinnabar, Ninja managed to carve out a niche market. Its affordability and the nostalgic value it held for many women made it a sought-after item long after its initial release. Even today, some women still hunt for Ninja, cherishing its unique place in the fragrance market as an accessible, budget-friendly alternative to more expensive options. This enduring appeal highlights how Ninja successfully resonated with consumers by offering a quality fragrance experience at an accessible price point, proving that luxury doesn't always have to come with a high cost.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the original version smell like? Cinnabar is classified as a spicy oriental fragrance for women. Spicy, exotic oriental with top note of mandarin and cloves combined with rose, jasmine and carnation. Background blends warmth of ambery, mossy and woody notes.

It begins with a spicy aldehydic top, followed by a spicy exotic floral heart, resting on a sensual balsamic base.

• Top notes: spice oils, cyclamen, orange, chamomile, peach, bergamot, orange blossom and tangerine, mandarin
• Middle notes: cloves, carnation, cinnamon, jasmine absolute, orris, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang and lily 
• Base notes: myrrh, civet, olibanum, tolu balsam, amber, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, incense, sandalwood, musk and patchouli

Cinnabar's Scent Profile:

As I inhale the fragrance of Cinnabar, the initial impression is a rich and spicy blend of notes that immediately envelops the senses. The top notes introduce a captivating warmth with a mix of spice oils, evoking the aromatic scent of a bustling spice market. The spices are potent and piquant, creating a tantalizing opening that is both invigorating and exotic. Cyclamen, a floral note, adds a fresh, dewy aspect, softening the spiciness and providing a gentle floral undertone. The scent of orange and mandarin bursts forth with their vibrant, citrusy brightness. These notes are zesty and uplifting, reminiscent of freshly peeled citrus fruits, their essential oils spraying into the air, mingling with the other spices. Chamomile adds a soothing, herbal quality, calming the intensity of the spices with its soft, apple-like aroma. Peach contributes a subtle sweetness, offering a juicy, fruity layer that balances the spiciness and adds a delightful, luscious touch. Bergamot brings a sharp, slightly bitter citrus note, adding a touch of sophistication and complexity to the blend. The orange blossom provides a delicate, sweet floral note, light and airy, adding an elegant touch to the vibrant citrus and spice.

As the fragrance develops, the heart notes reveal a more intricate and exotic bouquet. The cloves dominate with their warm, spicy aroma, creating a rich, aromatic backdrop that is both comforting and intriguing. Carnation adds a spicy, clove-like floral note, which complements the cloves perfectly, enhancing the overall spiciness with its warm, peppery scent. Cinnamon introduces a warm, sweet spiciness, reminiscent of holiday baking, its scent rich and inviting. Jasmine absolute adds a lush, heady floral note, with a slightly indolic quality that is both sensual and opulent. It's the scent of a night-blooming jasmine, its intoxicating aroma filling the air. Orris root, with its powdery, earthy scent, adds a soft, elegant note that grounds the heady florals, giving them depth and complexity. Lily of the valley contributes a delicate, sweet floral note, light and fresh, adding a soft, green floral quality to the blend. The rose offers a rich, opulent floral note, with a soft, powdery undertone that is both romantic and timeless. Ylang ylang introduces a creamy, exotic floral note, with a slightly fruity, banana-like undertone that is both sensual and intoxicating. The lily adds a rich, floral note, with a sweet, slightly spicy scent that rounds out the floral heart.

The base notes of Cinnabar provide a warm, balsamic foundation that enhances the fragrance's sensuality and depth. Myrrh adds a rich, resinous note, with a warm, slightly sweet undertone that is both mysterious and comforting. Civet introduces an animalic note, with a warm, musky scent that adds a touch of exoticism and intrigue. Olibanum, also known as frankincense, provides a smoky, resinous note, with a slightly sweet, woody aroma that adds a sense of ritualistic elegance. Tolu balsam contributes a warm, sweet, balsamic note, with a rich, resinous quality that is both soothing and enveloping. Amber adds a warm, golden note, with a rich, resinous scent that is both luxurious and comforting. Benzoin introduces a sweet, vanilla-like note, with a warm, balsamic quality that enhances the overall warmth of the base. Vanilla itself adds a sweet, creamy note, with a rich, comforting aroma that adds a touch of sweetness to the blend. Vetiver provides an earthy, woody note, with a smoky, grassy aroma that adds depth and complexity. Incense contributes a smoky, resinous note, with a mystical, spiritual quality that adds a sense of mystery and allure. Sandalwood offers a creamy, smooth woody note, with a soft, milky quality that is both soothing and luxurious. Musk adds a soft, animalic note, with a warm, powdery scent that enhances the sensuality of the fragrance. Finally, patchouli adds a rich, earthy note, with a warm, woody aroma that is both grounding and sophisticated.

The result is a beautifully balanced, complex fragrance that is both exotic and luxurious, perfect for those who appreciate a rich, spicy oriental scent. Cinnabar is a fragrance that envelops the wearer in a warm, sensual embrace, evoking a sense of mystery and allure.

Soft Youth Dew:

ACinnabar's predecessor, Soft Youth Dew, is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women, a lighter, fresher version of the original fragrance masterpiece.

• Top notes: aldehydes, carnation, daffodil
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, hyacinth
• Base notes: patchouli, cedar, vetiver, elemi, amber, civet, musk and galbanum

Soft Youth Dew Scent Profile:

As I experience the fragrance, the initial impression is a burst of aldehydes, which brings a fresh, soapy brightness to the composition. These aldehydes are crisp and effervescent, creating a sparkling effect that feels both modern and classic. Their clean, slightly metallic scent provides a vibrant opening, setting the stage for the floral heart to follow. Alongside the aldehydes, the spicy sweetness of carnation becomes evident. This note adds a warm, clove-like spice that is both uplifting and comforting, providing a gentle contrast to the sharpness of the aldehydes. The carnation’s scent is rich and slightly peppery, with a soft, floral undertone that hints at the complexity to come. Daffodil, or narcissus, introduces a green, slightly indolic floral note. Its scent is fresh and slightly bitter, with a narcotic quality that adds depth to the top notes, offering a hint of the more profound floral elements that lie at the heart of the fragrance.

As the fragrance transitions to its heart notes, the rich, romantic scent of rose emerges. This rose is lush and opulent, with a velvety texture that is both sweet and slightly earthy. It is the quintessential floral note, timeless and elegant, evoking images of blooming gardens and classic femininity. Jasmine, with its heady and intoxicating aroma, adds a sensual depth to the heart. The jasmine is full and luxurious, with a slightly indolic edge that enhances the complexity of the bouquet. Its scent is rich and enveloping, bringing a sense of opulence and exoticism. Lily of the valley introduces a fresh, green floral note, light and delicate, with a sweet, innocent quality. Its scent is airy and bright, adding a refreshing clarity to the heart of the fragrance. Hyacinth, with its fresh, watery floral scent, rounds out the heart notes. The hyacinth is crisp and slightly sweet, with a green, dewy freshness that enhances the overall lightness and elegance of the fragrance.

The base notes of the fragrance provide a warm, rich foundation that anchors the composition. Patchouli introduces a deep, earthy note, with a warm, woody scent that is both grounding and sophisticated. It adds a slightly sweet, resinous quality that enhances the fragrance's oriental character. Cedarwood contributes a dry, woody note, with a subtle, smoky aroma that adds a touch of elegance and refinement. The cedarwood is clean and crisp, providing a counterpoint to the richer, more exotic base notes. Vetiver adds a green, earthy note, with a slightly smoky, grassy aroma that is both fresh and grounding. Its scent is complex and nuanced, adding depth and sophistication to the base. Elemi, a resin, introduces a fresh, lemony balsamic note. Its scent is bright and slightly spicy, with a warm, resinous quality that adds a unique touch to the base. Amber provides a warm, golden note, with a rich, resinous scent that is both luxurious and comforting. Its scent is sweet and slightly powdery, adding a sense of warmth and richness to the fragrance. Civet, an animalic note, introduces a warm, musky scent, with a slightly sweet, fecal undertone. It adds depth and complexity, enhancing the sensuality of the fragrance. Musk adds a soft, animalic note, with a warm, powdery scent that enhances the fragrance's sensuality. Finally, galbanum introduces a green, resinous note, with a slightly bitter, herbaceous scent. Its scent is fresh and slightly pungent, adding a unique, green quality to the base.

Together, these notes create a beautifully balanced, complex fragrance that is both floral and oriental. The result is a scent that is lighter and fresher than the original, yet still rich and luxurious, perfect for those who appreciate a sophisticated, multifaceted fragrance. It envelops the wearer in a soft, elegant embrace, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and refined femininity.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In the early to mid-2000s, Estee Lauder undertook the task of reformulating Cinnabar, a fragrance that had become synonymous with exotic luxury since its original launch. This reformulation was driven by two primary factors: the evolving preferences of modern consumers and the need to comply with new regulations set by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). The IFRA restrictions aimed to ensure consumer safety and environmental protection, necessitating the removal or replacement of certain traditional ingredients that had been staples in the original formulation of Cinnabar.

The modernized version of Cinnabar was crafted to align with contemporary tastes, which had shifted towards cleaner, more refined scent profiles while still craving a sense of warmth and complexity. The original deep spice notes and rich, opulent aura were preserved, but the reformulation introduced newer, safer ingredients that complied with IFRA guidelines. This not only ensured the fragrance could continue to be sold globally without regulatory issues but also allowed Estee Lauder to maintain the iconic character of Cinnabar in a way that resonated with a new generation of perfume enthusiasts.

In the reformulated Cinnabar, traditional materials that posed potential allergenic or sensitizing risks were replaced with modern synthetics or alternative naturals that provided similar olfactory characteristics. This careful balancing act was essential to retaining the fragrance's signature warmth and exoticism while adhering to contemporary standards. The updated composition continued to evoke the same luxurious and mysterious ambiance, reflecting Cinnabar's heritage, but with a fresher, more contemporary twist.

By reformulating Cinnabar, Estee Lauder demonstrated a commitment to both preserving the legacy of their iconic fragrances and adapting to the changing landscape of the fragrance industry. The updated version of Cinnabar not only adhered to safety and regulatory standards but also ensured the fragrance remained relevant and appealing to modern consumers, cementing its place in the Estee Lauder fragrance portfolio for years to come.

Reformulated version:

• Top notes: spices, peach, cloves, bergamot, orange blossom and tangerine. 
• Middle notes: carnation, cinnamon, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang and lily 
• Base notes; olibanum, tolu balsam, amber, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, incense, sandalwood and patchouli

Scent Profile:

The original 1978 formula of Estee Lauder's Cinnabar is celebrated as a quintessential spicy Oriental fragrance for women, embodying a rich, exotic allure. This classic scent begins with a distinctive aldehydic opening, characterized by a bright, effervescent quality that heightens the senses. The top notes are a complex blend of spice oils, cyclamen, orange, chamomile, peach, bergamot, orange blossom, tangerine, and mandarin, offering a vibrant and diverse introduction. The presence of spices, including cloves and cinnamon, is immediately noticeable, adding a warm, piquant edge to the fruity and floral elements. This multifaceted opening layer sets the tone for a fragrance journey that is both intricate and evocative.

The heart of the original Cinnabar is defined by an exotic floral bouquet, featuring cloves, carnation, cinnamon, jasmine absolute, orris, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang, and lily. This central accord is richly spiced and deeply floral, with the carnation and cloves providing a spicy, almost peppery dimension. Jasmine and ylang ylang contribute a lush, sensual floral sweetness, while lily of the valley and rose add a delicate, classic floral touch. The inclusion of orris root introduces a subtle powdery note, enhancing the overall elegance of the composition. This blend creates a heart that is both warm and opulent, embodying the exotic allure that is the hallmark of Cinnabar.

In the base, the fragrance grounds itself in a sensual, balsamic foundation. The base notes consist of myrrh, civet, olibanum, tolu balsam, amber, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, incense, sandalwood, musk, and patchouli. This combination offers a rich, warm, and resinous backdrop, with the balsamic and ambery notes providing a deep, comforting warmth. Myrrh and olibanum introduce a smoky, incense-like quality, while civet adds a subtle animalic undertone, enhancing the fragrance's depth and sensuality. The presence of vanilla and benzoin adds a sweet, creamy aspect, balancing the smokiness with a touch of softness. Patchouli and vetiver bring an earthy, woody element, grounding the composition and providing a lasting, memorable finish.

The reformulated version from the early to mid-2000s retains much of the original's character but simplifies and modernizes the composition, likely in response to evolving consumer preferences and regulatory guidelines. The top notes in this version include spices, peach, cloves, bergamot, orange blossom, and tangerine, offering a more streamlined opening that still captures the essential spiciness and citrusy freshness of the original but with fewer components. The aldehydic quality and additional fruit notes like cyclamen and chamomile are omitted, leading to a more direct and less effervescent opening.

In the middle notes, the composition remains faithful to the original's exotic floral heart but with a slight reduction in complexity. The reformulated version features carnation, cinnamon, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, ylang ylang, and lily. The absence of orris root and the potential reduction in the concentration of some floral components might result in a slightly less powdery and intense floral experience, though the core spicy-floral essence is preserved.

The base notes in the reformulated version continue to provide a rich, warm foundation but are notably simplified. The notes of myrrh and civet, which added a distinctive animalic and resinous depth, are no longer present. Instead, the base focuses on olibanum, tolu balsam, amber, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, incense, sandalwood, and patchouli. This combination still offers a warm, balsamic, and slightly smoky foundation but with a cleaner and more approachable finish. The exclusion of musk and the potential adjustments in the balance of these notes make the fragrance less intense and animalic, aligning it more closely with contemporary tastes and safety standards.

Overall, the early to mid-2000s reformulation of Cinnabar seeks to maintain the essence of the original 1978 fragrance while adapting to modern preferences and regulatory requirements. The result is a fragrance that honors its heritage with a rich, spicy Oriental profile but with a more refined and accessible character.

Current Formulation:

As of 2024, this is the current formulation on Estee Lauder's website:

• Top notes: jasmine, orange flower, tangerine
• Middle notes: clove, lily of the valley, lily
• Base notes: olibanum, sandalwood, patchouli

Scent Profile:

As I explore the current formula of Cinnabar in 2024, the top notes immediately introduce a fresh and floral opening. The scent of jasmine is prominent, exuding a lush, heady aroma that is both intoxicating and elegant. Jasmine's rich, sweet floral character provides a sensual and opulent introduction to the fragrance. This is complemented by the delicate and sweet notes of orange flower, which add a light, citrusy floral touch, enhancing the freshness of the top notes. The tangerine note brings a burst of bright, juicy citrus, offering a zesty and uplifting sensation that balances the deeper floral elements. This vibrant opening is both inviting and invigorating, setting the stage for the rest of the scent journey.

As the fragrance transitions to the heart notes, the warmth and spice of clove become apparent. The clove imparts a rich, spicy warmth that adds depth and complexity to the fragrance. Its slightly sweet, peppery aroma contrasts beautifully with the floral notes. Lily of the valley introduces a delicate, fresh green floral scent, adding a layer of lightness and airiness. This note is soft and clean, providing a gentle counterpoint to the more intense clove. The inclusion of lily, with its creamy, slightly sweet floral scent, rounds out the heart notes, adding a sense of elegance and refinement. Together, these middle notes create a harmonious blend that balances spice with floral delicacy.

In the base notes, the fragrance deepens and warms with the inclusion of olibanum, also known as frankincense. Olibanum provides a resinous, slightly woody aroma, imbued with a subtle sweetness and a hint of smokiness. This adds a mystical, meditative quality to the fragrance, grounding it with a sense of calm and depth. Sandalwood contributes a creamy, smooth woody note, enhancing the overall warmth and richness of the base. Its scent is both soft and luxurious, lending a sophisticated finish to the fragrance. Finally, patchouli introduces an earthy, slightly sweet aroma, with a hint of muskiness. Patchouli's distinctive scent adds depth and complexity, completing the fragrance with a lasting, earthy presence.

Comparing this 2024 formula to the original 1978 and early to mid-2000s versions of Cinnabar, several differences stand out. The original version was characterized by a more extensive and complex composition, including a broader array of spice and floral notes. Notably, the 1978 version included ingredients like peach, cloves, and various resins and balsams, contributing to a rich, multifaceted scent profile that was both exotic and opulent. The mid-2000s version retained much of this complexity but was reformulated to comply with IFRA restrictions, leading to adjustments in ingredients for safety and regulatory compliance. This iteration maintained the essence of the original while modernizing its components.

In contrast, the 2024 formula appears to have streamlined the fragrance, focusing on fewer key notes that emphasize a balanced and cohesive scent experience. The current version maintains the iconic warm and spicy character of Cinnabar but does so with a more refined and simplified palette. This modern approach likely reflects changing consumer preferences for cleaner and more focused fragrances, while still honoring the rich, warm legacy of the original Cinnabar.