L'Effleurt by Coty c1907 vs. L'Effleur by Coty c1990

In the year 1907, Coty unveiled a captivating creation to the discerning society of the Edwardian era: L’Effleurt, a delicate floral perfume ensconced within a Baccarat flacon adorned with a label fashioned by the esteemed Rene Lalique.

This fragrant offering arrived amidst a time when elegance, refinement, and romance reigned supreme in the hearts of the populace. The turn of the century marked an era of opulence and sophistication, where every detail, from attire to accouterments, was meticulously curated to exude grace and charm.

With its enchanting slogan, ‘Somewhere inside romance blossoms,’ and the poetic declaration, "Fragrance of dream gardens - delicately accentuating the loveliness of flower women," L’Effleurt promised to transport wearers to a realm of ethereal beauty and timeless allure.

Such a perfume would have been received with great admiration and enthusiasm by the Edwardian society, as it perfectly encapsulated the spirit of the era—a desire for elegance, refinement, and a touch of romantic escapism. The exquisite craftsmanship of the Baccarat flacon and Lalique-designed label, coupled with the alluring fragrance within, would have undoubtedly captivated the hearts and senses of those fortunate enough to experience it. L’Effleurt stood as a testament to the artistry and sophistication of the time, solidifying Coty’s position as a purveyor of luxury and refinement in the world of perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. I do not have the exact notes but I suspect it was a blend of jasmine, rose, lily of the valley and possibly heliotrope. It probably had a soft woodsy or animal base.

Scent Profile:

Close your eyes and inhale deeply, transported to the refined parlors of the Edwardian era, where elegance and grace reign supreme. As you breathe in the delicate essence of L’Effleurt, you are greeted by the enchanting aroma of jasmine, its intoxicating sweetness filling the air like the petals of blossoming flowers adorning a sunlit garden.

Next, the scent of rose emerges, its velvety petals unfurling with a timeless elegance, evoking images of romantic bouquets exchanged between lovers in a bygone era. Mingling with the rose is the ethereal fragrance of lily of the valley, its delicate blooms adding a touch of freshness and innocence to the composition.

But there's more—a subtle hint of heliotrope dances through the air, its powdery sweetness reminiscent of the luxurious face powders and perfumes favored by Edwardian women of refinement. And as the fragrance settles, a soft, woodsy undertone emerges, grounding the floral symphony with a sense of warmth and depth, like the polished wood furnishings of a stately manor.

This olfactory journey through L’Effleurt is not merely a scent, but a sensory experience that transports you back to a time of opulence, sophistication, and romanticism—the epitome of the Edwardian era captured in a single, exquisite fragrance.

Quite Personal Perfumes:

In the 1920s and 1930s, the world of perfumery was not only about scents but also about creating an aura that matched a woman's appearance or personality. Perfume companies ingeniously tailored their marketing to suggest that certain fragrances were inherently suited to specific complexions, hair colors, or personality types.

For the fair-haired beauties, fragrances like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or were recommended, their light and delicate notes thought to harmonize with the ethereal charm of blondes.

Brunettes were encouraged to indulge in heavier, more opulent scents such as L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx, which exuded a richness and depth that complemented their darker allure.

Red-haired women were directed towards fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen, with their vibrant and spirited personalities reflected in the exotic and intriguing notes of these perfumes.

Alternatively, some perfumers opted to match fragrances with personalities or moods, acknowledging that one's inner essence might transcend physical appearance.

For those embodying sunny joyousness, scents like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette were recommended, their fresh and vibrant aromas perfectly mirroring a sunny disposition.

Dreamy and elusive types were advised to embrace fragrances like Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc, their ethereal and romantic notes capturing the essence of a whimsical spirit.

Exotic personalities were drawn to scents like Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique, evoking a sense of mystery and allure.

Meanwhile, those with a mysterious aura were encouraged to explore fragrances like Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen, their enigmatic notes resonating with the allure of the unknown.

And for the brilliantly sophisticated, fragrances like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were deemed fitting, their timeless elegance and refinement perfectly complementing a sophisticated temperament.

These clever marketing tactics proved immensely successful, enticing consumers to select perfumes not only based on their scent but also on the desired image or mood they wished to embody. As a result, thousands of bottles of perfume were purchased, catering to a diverse array of tastes, preferences, and personalities.

Bottles:

In 1912, perhaps recognizing the need for a fresh approach, Coty made a bold move with L’Effleurt. The perfume underwent a transformation, not just in packaging but also in its essence, to better capture the imagination of its audience.

Encased within a newly designed Rene Lalique flacon, this reincarnation of L’Effleurt was nothing short of a visual marvel. Lalique, renowned for his exquisite glasswork, crafted a flacon adorned with a molded glass label depicting a captivating scene: a woman emerging gracefully from a swirl of vapor. This artistic interpretation not only added a touch of elegance to the packaging but also served as a nod to the origins of the word "perfume," derived from the Latin "per fumum," meaning "through smoke."

The symbolism was profound. Just as the woman in Lalique's design emerged from the swirling mist, so too did the essence of L’Effleurt envelop its wearer, enveloping them in a delicate veil of fragrance that whispered of romance and allure. It was a masterstroke of marketing, evoking a sense of mystique and enchantment that resonated with consumers of the time.

With its new packaging and refined image, L’Effleurt embarked on a new chapter, captivating the hearts and senses of those who sought not just a perfume, but an experience—a journey through the mists of time and into the realm of olfactory delight.

The Lalique bottle from 1910 is a captivating piece of artistry, a testament to the timeless elegance of Lalique's glasswork. Standing at 7.25 inches tall, its delicate beauty commands attention.

One side of the bottle is adorned with hand-painted flowers, a delicate touch that adds an extra layer of charm and sophistication. The intricacy of the floral design speaks to Lalique's mastery of glass artistry, each bloom a testament to his skillful hand.

On the opposite side, an embossed gold paper label takes center stage, showcasing Lalique's signature motif: a woman gracefully rising out of a swirl of incense smoke. This design is not just visually stunning but also steeped in symbolism, harkening back to the origins of the word "perfume" and evoking a sense of mystery and allure.

The Lalique name near the bottom of the label serves as a seal of quality, a mark of craftsmanship that has come to be synonymous with luxury and refinement.

Measuring 2.5 inches wide and 1.75 inches thick, this bottle is not just a vessel for fragrance but a work of art in its own right—a timeless masterpiece that captures the essence of beauty and elegance.

The bottle described is an exquisite example of early 20th-century perfumery, specifically created for Coty's L'Effleurt. This flacon, produced by Baccarat, epitomizes the luxurious craftsmanship and aesthetic sophistication of the era.

Crafted from colorless crystal, the bottle is both elegant and understated, allowing the pure beauty of the material to shine through. The crystal lapidary stopper adds a touch of refinement, ensuring that the fragrance within is preserved with the utmost care and elegance.

One of the most striking features of this flacon is its gold glass label. This label showcases a captivating image of a woman rising from a swirl of incense smoke, a design that not only adds a layer of visual interest but also connects deeply with the origin of the word "perfume," derived from the Latin "per fumum," meaning "through smoke." This evocative imagery ties the fragrance to a sense of mystique and ancient ritual.

Measuring 1.5 inches wide, 3.75 inches long, and 1 inch thick, the bottle is compact yet substantial, a perfect embodiment of Coty's commitment to quality and artistic expression. As the first bottle for L'Effleurt, it set a high standard for both aesthetic and functional design, making it a cherished piece for collectors and a hallmark of early Coty perfumery.

Lalique designed bottle with the briar stopper. From a 1923 advertisement.

Fate of the Fragrance:

By the late 1930s, the landscape of fashion and personal preferences had evolved significantly, and L’Effleurt might have been seen as old-fashioned. Introduced in the early 20th century, L’Effleurt encapsulated the Edwardian and early Art Nouveau eras with its delicate floral composition and elegant packaging.

As the decades progressed, the 1920s and 1930s brought about significant cultural shifts. The Roaring Twenties introduced a spirit of exuberance and modernity, with bold, unconventional styles influencing every facet of life, including fragrance. The Art Deco movement emphasized geometric shapes, bold lines, and luxurious materials, which were quite different from the softer, more romantic aesthetics of earlier periods.

By the 1930s, the world was facing the Great Depression, and tastes in fashion and beauty became more subdued and pragmatic. The onset of World War II in 1939 further accelerated changes in consumer behavior and preferences, as economic constraints and the harsh realities of war made luxurious, ornate items less practical and desirable.

Given these shifts, L’Effleurt’s delicate, romantic floral profile and its association with an earlier era might have been perceived as out of step with contemporary tastes, which were leaning towards more modern, innovative, and sometimes more practical scents. This evolving landscape likely contributed to the decision to discontinue the fragrance around 1938, as Coty and other perfume houses adapted to changing market demands and prepared for the uncertainties of the wartime period.

Nonetheless, L’Effleurt remains a beloved piece of perfume history, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts for its beauty, craftsmanship, and the nostalgic elegance it represents.

New Release:

In 1990, Coty Inc. released L’Effleur, a fragrance inspired by the early 20th-century classic, L'Effleurt. This modern reinterpretation was part of a period revival, aiming to capture the timeless elegance and romantic essence of its predecessor while resonating with contemporary tastes.

The fragrance's packaging played a crucial role in its appeal. Victoria magazine contributing editor Cynthia Hart was enlisted to design the packaging, infusing it with a distinct sense of vintage charm. Hart utilized fresh flowers, authentic antique Victorian scrap die-cuts, and fabrics to create stunning designs that captivated many women. This meticulous attention to detail ensured that the packaging not only evoked the elegance and romanticism of the Victorian era but also stood out as a beautiful, collectible piece.

L’Effleur's packaging, with its rich, nostalgic aesthetics, complemented the fragrance inside, creating a complete sensory experience. This thoughtful design approach helped to differentiate L’Effleur in a crowded market, making it a beloved choice for those who appreciated the blend of historical elegance and modern sophistication.

L’Effleur was not just a single product but an entire line of fragrance-infused items, reflecting the growing trend of layering scents to create a long-lasting and immersive experience. The range included:

• Cologne Spray: A modern take on the original perfume, offering a light and refreshing way to enjoy the scent.

• Foaming Bath Powder: Transforming a simple bath into a luxurious, aromatic experience.

• Body Lotion: Providing hydration and a subtle, lingering fragrance.

• Sachets: Perfect for adding a touch of fragrance to drawers, closets, and linens.

• Fragranced Candles: Creating a warm and inviting atmosphere with the signature scent.

• Talcum Powder: For a silky, fragranced finish after bathing.

• Perfumed Soaps: Elevating everyday routines with a touch of luxury.

• Dusting Powder: A classic, elegant way to enjoy the fragrance, reminiscent of early 20th-century beauty rituals.

• Keepsake Boxes: Beautifully designed containers for storing precious items, often scented to prolong the fragrance experience.

• Special Gift Sets: Curated collections of the various products, ideal for gifting and showcasing the versatility of the L’Effleur line.

This comprehensive approach not only paid homage to L'Effleurt's legacy but also embraced the modern consumer's desire for multifaceted and enduring fragrance experiences. By offering L’Effleur in multiple formats, Coty ensured that the scent could be enjoyed in numerous ways, making it a versatile and beloved addition to the world of fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did it smell like? It's composition was based on its original perfume notes from 1907 but was reformulated with modern ingredients. What resulted was a crisp floral-green fragrance (notes of citrus, aldehydes, fresh cut flowers and greens).

• Top notes: aldehydes, citrus, apricot
• Middle notes: herbs, orange blossom, rose, Amazon lily
• Base notes: Mexican vanilla, green leaves, Indian musk, Mysore sandalwood

L’Effleur, was a modern fragrance inspired by the original 1907 scent L'Effleurt. Drawing from its predecessor's composition, L’Effleur was reformulated with modern ingredients, resulting in a crisp floral-green fragrance that combined nostalgic charm with contemporary appeal.

The scent profile of L’Effleur was a harmonious blend of various notes:

• Top Notes: Aldehydes, citrus, and apricot created an invigorating and fresh opening, giving the fragrance a bright and effervescent quality.

• Middle Notes: Herbs, orange blossom, rose, and Amazon lily formed the heart of the fragrance, contributing a lush, floral complexity that was both sophisticated and vibrant.

• Base Notes: Mexican vanilla, green leaves, Indian musk, and Mysore sandalwood provided a warm, earthy foundation, adding depth and longevity to the scent.

This multi-layered composition offered a delicate balance of freshness, floral richness, and warm undertones. The use of modern ingredients enhanced the original fragrance notes, resulting in a scent that was both timeless and relevant to contemporary sensibilities.

The packaging, designed by Victoria magazine contributing editor Cynthia Hart, further emphasized the fragrance’s connection to its historical roots. Hart employed fresh flowers, authentic antique Victorian scrap die-cuts, and fabrics to create a visually stunning presentation that resonated with many women, complementing the fragrance's sophisticated and romantic essence.

L’Effleur, with its blend of historical inspiration and modern execution, successfully bridged the gap between past and present, offering a sensory experience that celebrated the legacy of L'Effleurt while appealing to the tastes of the 1990s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

L’Effleur, the modern reinterpretation of Coty's classic L'Effleurt, enjoyed a brief but memorable presence in the fragrance market. Introduced in 1990, this perfume captured the essence of its early 20th-century predecessor while incorporating contemporary elements to appeal to modern tastes.

Despite its initial success and the allure of its nostalgic packaging designed by Cynthia Hart, L’Effleur was discontinued around 1995-1996. This relatively short lifespan suggests that, while it resonated with a segment of consumers, it may not have achieved the widespread commercial success needed to sustain long-term production.

The discontinuation of L’Effleur in the mid-1990s could be attributed to several factors:

• Changing Consumer Preferences: The 1990s saw rapid shifts in fashion and fragrance trends, with consumers increasingly favoring more minimalist and clean scents.

• Market Competition: The fragrance market is highly competitive, and new launches often overshadow existing products, making it challenging for some fragrances to maintain their market share.

• Marketing and Distribution: Effective marketing strategies and extensive distribution networks are crucial for a perfume's success. If these were not robust for L’Effleur, it could have contributed to its discontinuation.

• Production Costs: High production costs for premium packaging and quality ingredients might have affected the profitability of the fragrance, leading to its withdrawal from the market.

Even though L’Effleur was discontinued, it remains a cherished memory for those who experienced its unique blend of crisp floral-green notes and its beautifully crafted packaging. Its brief existence adds a layer of exclusivity and nostalgia, making it a collectible item for perfume enthusiasts and collectors.