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Monday, May 6, 2013

Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet c1902

Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet was launched in 1902. This is one of the earliest perfumes marketed by Roger and Gallet in America.




It was available in parfum extrait, eau de toilette, sachet, soap, face powder, lotion vegetale, bath crystals, bath powder and  talc.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange, lemon, rose geranium, galbanum
  • Middle notes: carnation, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang, lilac, lily of the valley, violet
  • Base notes; patchouli, civet, tonka bean, oakmoss, ambergris, benzoin, opoponax, musk, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver

There are no published notes, so I used  a vintage 1950s perfume nip to complete this article. My overall impression is that it is a very bright aldehydic floral with a lot of depth from the mid and base notes. On my skin, the sweeter floral notes and the animalic notes are much more intense than on paper, where they are quite muted. I also get quite a faecal note on the drydown from the civet and indolic jasmine. On paper, the citrus, green and aldehydic notes are much more potent.

The book Die Moderne Parfumerie lists the following recipe for Roger et Gallet's Fleurs d'Amour:

  • 2200g infusion of orange
  • 3000g infusion of jasmine
  • 2000g infusion of rose
  • 30g Hyazinthin (Heiko, Heine & Co)
  • 200g musk tincture
  • 180g heliotropin
  • 300g tolu tincture
  • 15g synthetic rose (Heiko, Heine & Co)
  • 4g Jonon (ionone)
  • 100g Terpineol




Bottles:


The parfum (extrait) was housed inside of a square Baccarat crystal bottle with cut glass lapidary stopper. The C.H. Pillet designed silver and gold embossed paper label shows cupid holding a bouquet in one hand and throwing flowers in the other. A larger version of this bottle, not made by Baccarat was used for the toilet water.

These bottles were presented in red packaging scattered with gilded roses. The matching graphics used on the presentation box were also used on the original powder box.
 



  


Ushering modernism, the Art Deco theme was adopted, and Piver abandoned the old fashioned fussy Edwardian style used in the red packaging. Later on, during the 1920s, the bird of paradise motif was used on the exquisite aluminum powder box designed by Rene Lalique.


 

 


During the second world war, presentations were more streamlined and simple due to the scarcity of materials used in packaging and bottling. These items may have labels that mention that the perfume was "Compounded in the USA."

 
 




Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume was discontinued, date unknown. Fleurs d'Amour was still being sold in 1968. 



Click HERE to find Fleurs d'Amour by Roger et Gallet

1 comment:

  1. I found a full bottle of talk looks like it was never used, bottle is carved with blank Art Deco cap, all labels intact... Any info on age or value??

    ReplyDelete

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