Paris by Coty c1921

Paris in 1921 was a city of contrasts, blending the opulence of its Belle Époque past with the modernity of the Jazz Age. It was a time of artistic flourishing, with the likes of Picasso, Hemingway, and Fitzgerald frequenting its cafes and salons. The city pulsed with energy, its streets filled with the sounds of jazz music, the buzz of intellectual discourse, and the clinking of glasses in smoky speakeasies.

Against this backdrop, the name "Paris" evoked an air of sophistication, romance, and allure. It symbolized not just a geographical location, but a lifestyle, a sense of refinement and elegance that resonated with the aspirations of women in the early 20th century. Naming a perfume after Paris was a way to capture the essence of this iconic city, to bottle its mystique and charm, and to offer women a scent that promised to transport them to the romantic streets and gardens of the French capital.

Vincent Roubert, the perfumer behind Paris by Coty, understood the power of evocative branding. By associating his fragrance with Paris, he tapped into a potent blend of fantasy and reality, offering women a chance to experience a piece of the city's magic every time they spritzed the perfume on their skin. Just as Paris itself was a blend of tradition and innovation, so too was the fragrance—a floral bouquet that paid homage to the classics while embracing the spirit of modernity.

A 1925 ad reads:

"For the Brilliant Sophisticated Temperaments: Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan"

It was advertised as the " Fragrance of Tantalizing Gaiety. Paris is a gift of subtle grace. It expresses the joyous, lilting temperament."

Another ad reads "For Brilliant Sophisticated Temperaments of the "delicately imperious" women of the world, Coty offers Paris."

These advertisements from 1925 evoke a vivid image of the type of woman that Paris by Coty was marketed towards: the "Brilliant Sophisticated Temperaments" and the "delicately imperious" women of the world.

The language used in these ads suggests a perfume aimed at women who exude confidence, sophistication, and a certain allure. Words like "brilliant," "sophisticated," "tantalizing," and "delicately imperious" paint a picture of a woman who is both captivating and commanding, someone who knows her own worth and isn't afraid to assert herself.

The mention of Paris as a "gift of subtle grace" and a fragrance that expresses "joyous, lilting temperament" further reinforces the idea of the perfume as a reflection of the spirit of the city itself—sophisticated, alluring, and filled with joie de vivre.

Overall, these advertisements position Paris by Coty as a fragrance for women who embrace their femininity with confidence and grace, embodying the timeless elegance and allure of the French capital.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, carnation, spices, violet
• Heart notes: lily, peach, lilac, ylang ylang, heliotrope, Bulgarian rose otto, honey 
• Base notes: Tibetan civet, Mexican vanilla, Indian musk, incense, ambergris, oakmoss, Siamese benzoin, tonka bean

Scent Profile:

Picture yourself strolling along the Seine, beneath the shadow of the iconic Eiffel Tower, as the sun casts a golden glow over the city of lights. In the air, there's a scent, a fragrance that encapsulates the essence of Paris itself—Paris by Coty.

As you take a deep breath, you're transported to the lush gardens of Jardin des Tuileries, where the air is alive with the delicate aroma of hyacinths and spicy carnations, mingling with the sweet scent of violet and the heady fragrance of jasmine and rose, reminiscent of the luxuriant blooms in Parc de Bagatelle.

But there's more to this perfume than just flowers. Just like the eclectic blend of architectural wonders in Paris, Paris by Coty unfolds in layers. Imagine sipping café au lait in a charming Montmartre bistro, where the air is filled with the fruity notes of ripe peaches and lilies, echoing the bustling energy of nearby markets like Marché Bastille.

As the day transitions into evening, the scent evolves, revealing a deeper, more mysterious side. Beneath the surface lies a hint of sensuality, embodied by the base notes of musk, civet, and ambergris, evoking the sultry allure of the Moulin Rouge and the hidden passageways of the Palais Garnier.

And just like the city itself, Paris by Coty leaves a lasting impression. As it settles on your skin, it leaves behind a trail of incense and oakmoss, conjuring images of candlelit cathedrals like Notre-Dame and the sun-dappled courtyards of Palais-Royal, while benzoin and tonka bean add a powdery, balsamic finish that is both comforting and enigmatic, like a stroll through the enchanting streets of Le Marais.

In every application of Paris by Coty, there's a piece of Paris—the landmarks, the gardens, the hidden gems—all captured in a bottle, waiting to transport you to the heart of the City of Love with each tantalizing scent.

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Coty’s perfumes are so universal and inexpensive that people tend to forget that they are still events, yet his Paris is as chic and sophisticated an odor as you can find. "

During the 1920s and 1930s, perfume companies not only adhered to the belief that a woman's complexion and hair color dictated her ideal fragrance but also facilitated easier choices for women—or those who admired them—in the midst of a wide array of perfume options. For instance:

• Blondes were recommended scents like Paris, L'Aimant, L'Effleurt, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Or.
• Brunettes were suggested fragrances like L'Aimant, L'Origan, Emeraude, Chypre, Ambréine, Fougeraie au Crépuscule, or Styx.
• Red-haired women were guided towards scents such as Emeraude, Paris, L'Origan, L'Ambre Antique, Iris, and Cyclamen.

This categorization aimed to simplify the perfume selection process, aligning fragrances with perceived feminine traits, thereby aiding women—or those who appreciated them—amidst the multitude of perfume choices available.

 Amidst the marketing landscape of perfumery in that era, some perfumers encouraged women to choose fragrances based on their personalities or moods rather than their physical appearance. These strategies proved successful, resulting in the purchase of thousands of perfume bottles, likely by those seeking gifts for others or uncertain about their own fragrance preferences.

For instance:

• Women of a sunny and joyous disposition were directed towards scents like L'Effleurt, Muguet, and Violette.
• Those with dreamy and elusive personalities were recommended fragrances such as Jasmine de Corse, La Jacinthe, and Lilas Blanc.
• Exotic personalities were steered towards Chypre, Violette Pourpre, and Ambre Antique.
• Mysterious types were suggested scents like Ambre Antique, Styx, and Cyclamen.
• For women with brilliant and sophisticated temperaments, perfumes like Emeraude, Paris, and L'Origan were highlighted.

These personalized recommendations aimed to simplify the perfume selection process, catering to individual tastes and inclinations rather than focusing solely on physical attributes.

Bottles:

Paris was housed in numerous bottles over the years depending on what type concentration the fragrance was made: Parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Cologne, Eau de Toilette, or Eau de Parfum.

Some early bottles were made by Rene Lalique and Baccarat. But most bottles made after 1920 were made by Coty’s own glassworks in Pantin and his flacons were fitted with presentation cases made at his boxing factory in Neuilly.

In the early 1920s, a slim, but wide, square shaped crystal bottle was used to hold Paris parfum. The bottle had a frosted glass stopper molded with stylized flowers. The bottle was made by Coty's own glassworks. The bottle was housed in a fancy blue and silver presentation box with a pull out drawer that featured a silky tassel. This was a 2 oz cut crystal flacon. This bottle was only used for Paris.

 

 

Parfum Flacons:

Initially, the first bottles were exclusively crafted for the Parfum (Extrait) and were meticulously made by renowned artisans such as Rene Lalique and Baccarat. However, the expense associated with procuring these bottles eventually prompted Coty to seek an alternative solution. Consequently, he adapted the designs and established his own glassworks in France to produce them. These bottles were distinctly marked with "Coty France" on the base, signifying their origin and authenticity.

Moth Stopper Parfum Flacon:

One of the earliest bottles used for Coty fragrances was designed by Rene Lalique, featuring a distinctive double moth frosted glass stopper. Initially created for Coty's fragrance Muguet in 1912, this elegant design later became synonymous with many of Coty's other fragrances.

The Lalique-designed bottle was also produced by Baccarat in 1913, identified by mold number 241 and acid marked "Baccarat" on the base. Standing at 3.25 inches tall, these Baccarat bottles were a hallmark of luxury and craftsmanship.

As Coty sought more cost-effective solutions, the production of these bottles shifted to Coty's own glassworks. Bottles marked "Coty" on the base became the new standard, holding 1.6 oz of parfum and standing at the same height of 3.25 inches. They were typically housed in green leather-covered boxes, adding to their allure.

To accommodate travel, a modified version of the bottle was introduced, featuring an inner glass stopper and a brass screw cap. These travel-friendly bottles were also crafted by Baccarat, designated as model number 291.

Roseraie Package:

In 1927, Coty unveiled a charming new packaging design for the iconic moth stoppered bottle. This updated presentation featured the bottle housed in a box adorned with a brown suede-like effect, adding a touch of elegance to the overall presentation. This packaging design was employed for fragrances such as Emeraude, L'Origan, Paris, and Chypre, showcasing Coty's commitment to both style and substance.

Interestingly, newspaper advertisements from that era often varied in their description of the bottle's capacity. Some sources noted capacities of 1 1/3 oz, 1 3/4 oz, or 1 1/2 oz. Such discrepancies in advertisements were not uncommon during this period, reflecting the challenges of maintaining consistency and accuracy in marketing materials.

                           

Etui a Cigarette Presentation:

In 1927, Coty introduced the Etui à Cigarette presentation, offering a unique and practical twist to perfume packaging. The bottle, standing at 3 1/8 inches tall, featured the distinctive Coty France inscription on the base, indicating its origin from Coty's own glassworks.

What made this presentation particularly innovative was its dual functionality. Once the perfume was used up, the accompanying box could be repurposed to hold cigarettes, providing a clever and stylish solution for everyday use. This thoughtful design not only added a touch of versatility to the perfume packaging but also emphasized Coty's commitment to elegance and practicality.

Metal Case Parfum Bottles:

Around 1928, Coty introduced a stylish purse-size bottle set, encased in a hinged metal case for added convenience and sophistication. The bottle featured in this set was the banded bottle with the signature frosted glass stopper, showcasing Coty's attention to detail and aesthetic elegance. Standing at a compact 2 3/4 inches tall, the metal case provided both protection and portability for the perfume.

Despite its popularity, these purse-size bottle sets were eventually discontinued in 1933, marking the end of an era for this particular packaging design. However, during their time, they represented a harmonious blend of style and practicality, reflecting Coty's commitment to offering luxurious fragrance experiences for the modern woman on the go.

Banded Bottles with Frosted Stoppers:

The bottle featured in this set boasts an embossed band along its upper part and a frosted glass stopper intricately molded with floral motifs and ridge details. While some have mistakenly attributed this exquisite design to renowned glass artisans such as Lalique and Baccarat, thorough research reveals that it does not appear in either company's catalogs nor was it among their molds.

Instead, this unique bottle was crafted by Coty's own glassworks in France, underscoring Coty's commitment to craftsmanship and innovation. Despite the confusion surrounding its origins, there's no denying the beauty and artistry of this distinctive Coty creation.

The parfum bottle was offered in three convenient sizes: 1/4 oz, 1/2 oz, and 1 oz, catering to various preferences and needs. However, the 1/4 oz bottle was discontinued in 1934, narrowing down the options for consumers.

Each bottle size had its own distinct stature:

• The 1/4 oz bottle stood at a diminutive height of 2.25 inches.
• The 1/2 oz bottle was slightly taller at 2.75 inches.
• The largest size, the 1 oz bottle, measured at a height of 3.75 inches.

This range of sizes ensured that Paris parfum was accessible to a wide range of consumers, from those seeking a compact option for travel or occasional use to those who preferred a larger supply for daily indulgence.

In addition to the standard sizes, larger versions of this bottle were crafted for a more lavish boudoir experience. These grander sizes stood at 6 inches tall, 7.25 inches tall, and 8 inches tall, and were specifically designed to hold Eau de Toilette.

These larger bottles weren't exclusive to Paris perfume; they were also utilized for other iconic Coty fragrances such as Eau de Coty, L'Origan, Chypre, La Rose Jacqueminot, and L'Aimant. This uniformity in bottle design across Coty's perfume lines not only maintained a cohesive aesthetic but also ensured a luxurious and consistent experience for fragrance enthusiasts.

Louvre Parfum Flacon:

The "Louvre" parfum flacon made its debut in 1929, characterized by its distinctive arched shape and sloping shoulders, accentuated by a frosted glass stopper featuring a molded stepped design. Holding 1 2/3 oz of Parfum, this elegant bottle was housed in a presentation box covered in faux reptile skin, as depicted in the advertisement below.

Interestingly, despite being marketed as a new creation, this flacon bore a striking resemblance to the "Lilas Pourpre" flacon designed by Rene Lalique, which was first introduced for Coty's Lilas Pourpre perfume in 1911. Despite its earlier origins, the "Louvre" flacon continued to be utilized in 1930 for fragrances such as Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre, Paris, and La Jacee, underscoring its enduring popularity and timeless design.

Crystal Bottles with Gilt Cap:

In 1928, a sophisticated packaging option emerged for fragrances such as Emeraude, L'Origan, Chypre, and Paris. This presentation featured flat, square-shaped crystal bottles adorned with inner glass stoppers and topped with gilt brass caps, exuding an air of elegance and refinement.

To complement the luxurious bottles, each fragrance was housed in a French leather case, adding a touch of sophistication to the overall presentation. This combination of exquisite craftsmanship and fine materials elevated the perfume experience, aligning perfectly with the prestige and allure of the Coty brand.

Flat Frosted Stopper Parfum Bottles:

Around 1928, Coty introduced a square crystal bottle with a distinctive flat design, complemented by a faceted frosted glass stopper. This elegant bottle held 1 2/3 oz of parfum and was selected to showcase fragrances such as Emeraude, Paris, Chypre, and L'Origan.

The combination of the sleek square shape and the frosted glass stopper exuded an air of sophistication and refinement, perfectly encapsulating the essence of these iconic Coty fragrances. This bottle design not only added to the visual appeal of the perfumes but also contributed to the overall luxurious experience of using Coty products.

 

In the 1920s, Baccarat unveiled a striking tall, square-based bottle featuring a flat-topped square frosted glass stopper. Coty, recognizing the allure of this design, adapted it for their own use, incorporating a unique twist: a foliate design on the stopper with the name "COTY" elegantly embossed at each corner. To further enhance the intricacies of the design, blue applied staining was delicately added to highlight the molded details.

This exquisite bottle stands at 4 inches tall, with a square base measuring 1-1/8 inches on each side. Adding to its prestige, the base of the bottle bears the acid-stamped mark "Coty France," signifying its origin and authenticity. This collaboration between Coty and Baccarat resulted in a timeless piece that seamlessly blended luxury and craftsmanship, embodying the essence of sophistication synonymous with Coty fragrances.

Purser Flacon:

In the 1937/1938 Coty catalog, a stylish gold-tone case was introduced, designed to hold a glass bottle securely. This convenient accessory featured a practical green plastic cap and base, combining functionality with elegance.

The compact size of this case made it ideal for slipping into a handbag, allowing for easy access to the fragrance while on the go. Its sleek design and practicality made it a must-have accessory for modern women, adding a touch of sophistication to their everyday routines.

Baroque Flacon:

The "Baroque Flacon" exudes opulence with its ornate rococo-style frosted glass stopper, perfectly reflecting the grandeur of the Louis XV period. Standing at 3.25 inches tall, 1.25 inches wide, and 5/8 inches thick, this superb flacon was exclusively reserved for Paris perfume.

The packaging for Paris embraced the rococo style, with intricate gold baroque scrolls and spray designs adorning the perfume box. This attention to detail not only enhanced the visual appeal but also encapsulated the essence of elegance and sophistication synonymous with Coty's Paris scent.

In the realm of product identity, Coty maintained a consistent color scheme across its lines. Paris was always presented in blue packaging, signifying its distinct identity. This commitment to color cohesion ensured strong brand recognition and helped Coty establish a lasting presence in the market.

Despite occasional repackaging efforts, Coty remained steadfast in its approach, avoiding faddish trends and prioritizing timeless designs that would endure in promotions, store displays, and advertising. This dedication to maintaining the essence of Paris perfume while adapting to evolving tastes ensured its enduring popularity among consumers.

Modern Packaging - Volume 22, 1949: 

"The rich baroque style of the Louis XV period is revived in the new package designs for Coty's Paris scent. Elegance of the packages is typified by the perfume box. The cover paper, printed in two shades of French blue, is decorated with embossed gold baroque scrolls and spray design."

 Tide: The Magazine for Advertising Executives - Volume 23, 1949: 

"An excellent example of product identity through the use of color is in the packaging operations of Coty, Inc. over the years Coty has had four basic lines:  Paris, always in blue, L'Origan always in gold, Emeraude always in green and L'Aimant always in red. Three of four years ago it then added a fifth, Muguet de Bois, in delicate pink. While the shades of these colors change in repackaging jobs from time to time, the company hammers away at the same basic colors to achieve strong product identity. 

Coty changes packages entirely on "artistic intuition," whenever it feels something more appealing has been produced. For example, the company finished repackaging the Paris line last September, the first change in 10 years. In the operation Coty changed from a teal blue to two tones of French blue , one richer than the other, but it was careful throughout to keep away from anything faddish in either color or design so that the package would have a long life for promotions, store displays and advertising. "

Eau de Toilette Flacons:

In the early 1920s, the Eau de Toilette flacons mirrored the elegance and beauty of their Parfum counterparts, featuring tall, square-shaped bottles with flat cut glass stoppers. These bottles exuded sophistication, with colorful lithographed or silver foil paper labels adding a touch of charm.

Available in two sizes, one of these bottles stood at an impressive height of 4 3/4 inches. Each bottle bore the mark "Coty France" on the base, indicating their origin from Coty's own glassworks, where meticulous craftsmanship was employed to ensure their quality and allure.

In 1926, Coty introduced a practical innovation for its Eau de Toilette line: patented metal sprinkler tops. These tops were designed to dispense just a few drops at a time, allowing for controlled application of the fragrance. Available in two sizes, 1 1/5 oz and 3 oz, these bottles were specifically crafted with travelers in mind, offering convenience and ease of use on the go.

Moreover, these bottles were non-refillable, ensuring the integrity of the fragrance and minimizing the risk of contamination. This combination of innovative design and functionality reflected Coty's commitment to providing luxurious yet practical solutions for its customers.

Parfum de Toilette:

Coty's Parfum de Toilette, introduced in 1960, represented a delightful balance between the lighter Eau de Toilette and the richer Parfum. Its strength was akin to today's Eau de Parfum fragrances, offering a long-lasting scent experience with moderate intensity.

Emeraude Parfum de Toilette was presented in various bottles throughout the years, each encapsulating the essence of the fragrance in its own unique way. These bottles were designed to reflect the elegance and sophistication of the fragrance, providing a fitting vessel for its timeless appeal.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Even though Paris was discontinued around 1968, old bottles of the fragrance can still be readily found online. It's not uncommon for collectors or enthusiasts to come across vintage bottles of discontinued perfumes through various online marketplaces.