Salut de Schiaparelli c1934

In 1934, the launch of Schiaparelli's perfume "Salut" coincided with a vibrant period in both fashion and cultural history. Elsa Schiaparelli, the pioneering fashion designer known for her avant-garde creations, had already made a significant mark on the fashion world with her daring designs and collaborations with artists like Salvador Dalí. During this time, the world was emerging from the depths of the Great Depression, and there was a growing sense of optimism and vitality in society.

Elsa Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was part of her broader vision to offer women a complete aesthetic experience. Perfumes, in her view, were not just fragrances but essential accessories that complemented her innovative clothing designs. This approach resonated particularly well in the 1930s, where fashion and perfume were intertwined in the concept of total elegance and style.

The choice of the name "Salut" for the perfume carries several layers of meaning. "Salut," which translates from French as "Hello" or "Greetings," suggests a friendly and welcoming tone. It evokes a sense of cheerfulness and social interaction, fitting well with the lively atmosphere of the time. In the context of a perfume, "Salut" could be seen as a gesture of homage or acknowledgment — a salute to femininity, elegance, and the spirit of the era.

For Schiaparelli, naming a perfume "Salut" was a deliberate choice to capture the essence of youthfulness and vitality. It would appeal to young women who embraced modernity and were looking for fragrances that reflected their dynamic lifestyle. The perfume was recommended for young girls, aligning perfectly with Schiaparelli's vision of empowering women through fashion and beauty.

"Salut" as a perfume could indeed be regarded as a salute in itself — a tribute to the wearer's confidence, charm, and adventurous spirit. Those who related to a perfume called "Salut" would likely respond with enthusiasm and a sense of connection to its spirited name. It would evoke images of social gatherings, outdoor activities, and the carefree joy of youthful exuberance.

Overall, the word "Salut" evokes feelings of warmth, friendliness, and celebration. It symbolizes a cheerful greeting, embodying the optimism and vitality of the 1930s while offering women a scent that complements their active lifestyles and fashionable attire.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  I am lucky enough to have a small sample of this fragrance, which I believe is the eau de cologne strength. There are no notes listed anywhere so I am testing this sample right now to give you an idea of what notes I do detect. The overall effect is vibrant, sharp, crisp, and fresh, green with a slight medicinal tone. Let's just say this is a romantic chypre and very heavy on the lily of the valley!

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, Ceylon citronella, Egyptian geranium, Bulgarian hyssop 
• Middle notes: Alpine lily of the valley, Grasse jasmine, Madagascar ylang ylang, Tunisian neroli, Chinese gardenia, Dutch narcissus, Dutch hyacinth, and indian tuberose
• Base notes: ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavia oakmoss, Haitian vetiver, Sumatra benzoin

The Delineator, 1935:

"Schiaparelli, the brilliant couturiere, has just put out some perfumes. Her first. "Schiap" which is dedicated to the sportswoman, is our favorite, but for indoors "Salut" is pretty fetching."

The Illustrated London News, 1937:

"Thank you," say women of understanding to Schiaparelli, " for giving us three perfumes." " Salut " for the evening ; it reveals and accentuates personality, and is distinctive in every way. Its packing is artistic."

Esquire, 1939:

"Schiaparelli's dusty rose and jasmine Shocking— emotional intensity in a bottle— and the gay, light Salut, with a lily base, for the young in heart."

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1939:

"Schiaparelli presents the new Salut — a crystal flask containing the fragrance of a whole flower garden emerges from white petals set against a blue satin background. "

1939:

"SALUT by SCHIAPARELLI, a floral fragrance with a salute to the brilliance of evening and of the stars. In a graceful bottle enclosed by a plaster lily. "

1940:

"SALUT. DE SCHIAPARELLI. Eau de Cologne and Bath Sponges. A beauty in a wonderful French fragrance. Salut has a flowerlike scent that is fresh and sweet."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Salut by Schiaparelli: Particularly indicated for young girls, Salut is a smile, a bow, a white lily which wishes you a fragrant welcome."

 

Scent Story:

In a sunlit Parisian salon adorned with fresh sprigs of lily of the valley, the atmosphere hums with anticipation. Young girls, dressed in delicate pastels and adorned with ribbons echoing the vibrant hues of spring, gather around the effervescent figure of Mme. Schiaparelli. Her presence, as always, commands attention—a vision in her signature shocking pink, contrasting sharply against the verdant backdrop of the salon's botanical theme.

As Mme. Schiaparelli gestures animatedly, her voice, infused with a melodic Italian accent, fills the air. She speaks of Salut, her latest olfactory creation, a fragrance born from dreams and inspired by the youthful spirit of her guests. "Salut," she proclaims, "is my homage to each of you, dear girls—capturing the essence of innocence, vibrancy, and the promise of spring."

In the midst of her words, the salon resonates with sensory delights. The air is crisp with the freshness of aldehydes, mingling harmoniously with the zesty notes of Calabrian bergamot and Ceylon citronella. The gentle herbal undertones of Egyptian geranium and Bulgarian hyssop add a soothing depth, reminiscent of a garden after a morning rain.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart blooms with Alpine lily of the valley—a floral symphony accompanied by Grasse jasmine's heady embrace, Madagascar ylang ylang's exotic sweetness, and Tunisian neroli's citrusy allure. Chinese gardenia and Dutch narcissus lend their creamy textures, while Dutch hyacinth and Indian tuberose interlace their intoxicating fragrances with a hint of spring's first blooms.

Beneath this floral tapestry lies a rich foundation—a blend of Venezuelan tonka bean's warm embrace, Indonesian patchouli's earthy sensuality, and Maltese labdanum's ambered resinous quality. Ambergris and Mysore sandalwood impart a velvety smoothness, while Yugoslavia oakmoss and Haitian vetiver evoke the mossy earth and verdant grass of a sun-dappled meadow. Sumatra benzoin adds a touch of sweetness, wrapping the composition in a comforting warmth.

Throughout Mme. Schiaparelli's storytelling, the young guests absorb every word, their senses fully engaged. They touch the delicate fabric of the ribbons adorning their dresses, feeling the softness against their fingertips. They taste delicate petit fours, infused with hints of citrus and jasmine, served on delicate china plates.

Above all, they hear Mme. Schiaparelli's passionate narrative—the story of sourcing precious ingredients from around the globe, of meticulous craftsmanship, and of the enchanting beauty captured in a bottle of Salut. Each ingredient, each note, weaves together to form a romantic chypre, vibrant and sharp, yet imbued with a crisp freshness that mirrors the youthful exuberance of her guests.

As the afternoon unfolds in a symphony of scents and sensations, Mme. Schiaparelli's tribute to youth and spring blossoms, leaving an indelible mark in the hearts and memories of all who are present.

Product Line:

By 1941, the product line for Salut by Schiaparelli had expanded to offer a comprehensive range of fragrant indulgences. Women could indulge in the luxurious essence of Salut through a variety of meticulously crafted products. The line included a delicately scented dusting powder, perfect for adding a subtle allure to the skin. Bath sponges infused with the signature fragrance offered a luxurious bathing experience, enveloping the senses in its sophisticated aroma. For those desiring a lighter touch, Salut was available as an eau de cologne, providing a refreshing burst of fragrance suitable for daily wear. The heart of the collection, however, lay in its exquisite perfume formulation, designed to be a lasting statement of elegance and femininity. Completing the lineup was a finely milled talc, ensuring that every aspect of the beauty ritual was infused with the timeless allure of Salut by Schiaparelli. Each product in the range catered to the sophisticated tastes of women, offering them an enchanting olfactory journey through the essence of Schiaparelli's vision of beauty and style.

Bottles:

Baccarat Cube Stoppered Bottles:

First presented in 1938 and used throughout the 1940s, this clear glass bottle was created to hold the pure parfum, and was not only used for Shocking, but served as a standard bottle for several other Schiaparelli perfumes such as So Sweet, Sleeping, Salut, Le Roy Soleil, Zut, etc. I believe that this sober bottle style was used in response to World War II restrictions on importations, especially glass bottles and supplies from Czechoslovakia and Italy.

This bottle is a domestic French product, Baccarat model #788, manufactured for Schiaparelli only. It is a tall, upright rectangular shape and features a faceted glass cube as the stopper. The smallest size features a stopper that has an attached dauber. The base of the bottle is usually molded with "Schiaparelli" and "French Bottle". 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

It's notable that Salut by Schiaparelli was discontinued around 1954. This marked the end of an era for a fragrance that had encapsulated the vibrant spirit of its time. Despite its discontinuation, Salut remains a nostalgic reminder of Schiaparelli's contribution to the world of perfumery, offering a glimpse into an era when elegance and sophistication were celebrated through both fashion and fragrance.