Septieme Sens by Sonia Rykiel c1979

Septième Sens by Sonia Rykiel, launched in 1979 and also known as 7e Sens, was a bold statement in the world of perfumery, aimed at the "modern, adventurous woman." The name Septième Sens is French, meaning "Seventh Sense." By choosing this name, Sonia Rykiel sought to convey something beyond the ordinary, hinting at a deeper, almost mystical connection. The concept goes beyond the five physical senses and intuition, the sixth sense, venturing into a realm that evokes an emotional and existential awareness that transcends simple perception. The idea of a "seventh sense" implies a profound understanding of oneself and the world, a space where feelings, instinct, and desire converge.

Sonia Rykiel chose this name with personal significance. Known for being a pioneer in fashion, she revealed that she had never found a fragrance that resonated with her identity before creating Septième Sens. Much like her approach to designing clothing, Rykiel created this fragrance to fill a void she felt in the perfumery world, a space where she could finally "find her scent." The perfume represented more than just a fragrance; it was an extension of Rykiel's personal expression and her desire to craft something unique, both for herself and for other women who felt the same lack of representation in the traditional fragrance market.

The name Septième Sens evokes images of sophistication, mystery, and sensuality. It suggests a fragrance that taps into a deeper emotional experience, a scent that could awaken feelings lying beneath the surface, invisible to the naked eye. The perfume’s blend of fruity, spicy, and animalic notes complements this concept beautifully. It begins with a vibrant, spicy top, where the warmth of nutmeg and cardamom meet the subtle heat of coriander and lauren. This spiced introduction gives way to a rich floral heart, where intoxicating jasmine blooms alongside ripe plum, offering a lush and almost decadent quality. Finally, the scent settles into a sultry, animalic base, with deep vetiver, earthy patchouli, and warm amber. The interplay of musk and amber with the shadowy allure of jasmine creates a chiaroscuro effect, a play of light and dark, that evokes the sensual complexity suggested by the name Septième Sens.

 

When Septième Sens was launched in 1979, it resonated with the independent, adventurous women of the era. The late 1970s were marked by a cultural shift where women were claiming more autonomy and exploring new expressions of identity, both in their personal and professional lives. Perfume, like fashion, was a form of self-expression, and Septième Sens stood out as a scent that didn’t conform to the typical floral or powdery fragrances of earlier decades. It was more daring, blending animalic undertones with fruity and spicy notes, reflecting the bolder attitudes of women during that time.

The fragrance was in line with the growing trend of chypre perfumes but took it a step further by infusing it with unexpected ingredients like nutmeg and animalic musk, making it stand out from other fragrances of the period. The scent, much like Rykiel's designs, was modern, slightly rebellious, and full of character. In this way, Septième Sens was not just a fragrance but a symbol of the new woman emerging at the end of the 1970s—independent, complex, and unafraid to explore her own desires.

In 1982, when asked about the saleability of her perfume, she said "I think my perfume could touch many more women now because it's so mysterious and life is so busy now. A woman needs to keep her mystery."

Performing Arts, 1982:

 "Septieme Sens, a fragrance by designer Sonia Rykiel, is re-entering the fragrance market under the direction of and at the counters of Germaine Monteil in the "right stores". The perfume, designed by Rykiel for herself, and women like her, has a tinge of masculine and animal allures, with a touch of "feminine mysteriousness". The multifaceted, inkwell shaped bottle is packaged in a black box with red lettering. The price is $120 for one ounce; the 3.4 oz eau de parfum is $40."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity-animalic chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a fruity, spicy top, followed by a narcotic floral heart, resting on a sultry, sensual base.  

• Top notes: aldehydes, prune, peach, bergamot, nutmeg, coriander, violet, cardamom, angelica
• Middle notes: clove, lily of the valley, mirabelle plum, jonquil, narcissus, carnation, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, honey
• Base notes: resin, leather, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, civet, patchouli, castoreum, cedar vetiver

A sensuous blend of aldehydic floral notes and rich mossy undertones. The vibrant top is rich with bergamot, ylang and modern aldehydes. The smooth yet slightly spicy midsection is enlivened by a classic combination of rose, muguet and jasmine. Nuances of carnation, laced with coriander and nutmeg create a signature note that is present at every phase. The undertones are a complex blend of musks, mosses and resins, each harmoniously tuned to highlight the warmth and richness of cedarwood, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver.

Scent Profile:

As Septième Sens opens, the first notes to greet you are warm and spicy, yet balanced by the fruit's sweetness. Nutmeg emerges with its subtly sharp, woodsy warmth, immediately engaging your senses with its inviting spice. Cardamom soon follows, its cool, aromatic intensity lending a touch of sophistication, while coriander’s slight citrusy earthiness adds complexity. Interwoven with these spices is the lauren, a unique element that gives the opening an ethereal quality—its scent fleeting and elusive. 

Suddenly, the ripe juiciness of prune and peach rushes in, sweet but not overwhelming, lending the fragrance a fleshy, sun-kissed quality. The bergamot cuts through with its zesty brightness, lifting the initial richness and adding a crisp, clean edge. Violets add an almost powdery, delicate floral nuance, making the fruity-spicy top shimmer with complexity. This combination feels both familiar and exotic, as if inviting you to explore further.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals itself in a seductive bouquet of floral and fruity notes. Jasmine dominates this floral core with its narcotic intensity, filling the air with an intoxicating sweetness that is almost hypnotic. It is supported by the sensuous, honeyed warmth of ylang-ylang and the soft, dewy freshness of lily of the valley. 

The mirabelle plum echoes the top note’s fruity sweetness but deepens it, blending harmoniously with jasmine to create a lush, opulent feeling. The spiced carnation and heady narcissus bring in a rich, almost clove-like depth, while jonquil adds a unique greenness to this floral medley. Rose and honey form a velvety backdrop, lending softness and a hint of sweetness, making this floral heart both rich and complex—simultaneously bold yet tender.

Then comes the base—deep, sensual, and enveloping. It opens with the dark, animalic tones of civet and castoreum, which give the fragrance a primal, almost feral quality. These animalic notes are softened by the powdery smoothness of musk and the creamy warmth of vanilla, creating a harmonious contrast between raw sensuality and comforting softness. 

Amber wraps around these base notes like molten gold, infusing the blend with a deep, resinous warmth that feels almost luminous. Vetiver and oakmoss contribute earthy, woody textures, grounding the entire composition in an aura of mystery and nature. The smoky elegance of sandalwood and cedar lingers in the background, while patchouli weaves through with its dark, slightly sweet earthiness, enhancing the fragrance’s richness. As these notes settle, they leave behind a lingering, leathery impression that feels both luxurious and intimate.

The entire scent journey of Septième Sens feels like a layered experience, each phase revealing new facets—fruity sweetness, narcotic florals, and finally, a deep, animalic sensuality, all intertwined with spice and warmth. It is a perfume that feels alive, pulsing with contrasts: light and shadow, warmth and coolness, sweetness and spice. Each ingredient contributes to this dynamic, making the fragrance feel complex, sultry, and ultimately unforgettable.

Bottle:

The Septième Sens flacon, designed in 1979 by the renowned sculptor Serge Mansau, is an elegant work of art in itself, a reflection of the perfume’s opulent and multifaceted nature. For the pure parfum, Mansau crafted a jewel-like crystal bottle, faceted and intricate, reminiscent of a precious inkwell. The bottle exudes a sense of refinement, as though it were a gemstone waiting to be unveiled. Its design invites the wearer to hold and admire its facets, which catch the light in ways that enhance its preciousness. 

Enclosed within a sleek black case, the presentation is equally as captivating. This luxurious container, embedded with a faux diamond, adds to the allure of the bottle, making it feel like a treasure waiting to be discovered. Inside the case, a polishing cloth is provided, a thoughtful inclusion to maintain the shine and elegance of the pewter cap—an element that adds a weighty, antique-like touch to the overall design. This attention to detail reflects the luxurious experience Sonia Rykiel intended for her wearers.

The eau de parfum bottle, though simpler in comparison, still carries the sense of luxury Mansau is known for. Made of crystal, its sleek lines and clarity allow the rich liquid inside to become the focus, framed by the minimalist black plastic screw cap. Though less ornate, the eau de parfum bottle remains striking in its simplicity, evoking the same sense of sophistication as its parfum counterpart. 

The craftsmanship behind both bottles speaks volumes, with the flacons produced by esteemed glassmakers Pochet et du Courval and Saint-Gobain Desjonquères, renowned for their excellence in luxury perfume bottles. The flacon designs create an intimate bond between the user and the perfume, ensuring that even before the fragrance is experienced, its vessel already communicates its richness and allure.

Fate of the Fragrance:

In researching Septième Sens, I came across an intriguing possibility—there might be two distinct versions of this iconic fragrance, potentially linked to a reformulation when it was relaunched in 1982. According to one online reviewer, the earlier version of Septième Sens leaned heavily into its leathery and civet accords, resulting in a very dry, almost masculine scent profile. The leathery notes, combined with the rich, animalic undertones of civet, would have given the fragrance a bold and powerful presence. This version of Septième Sens seems to evoke a time when daring, unisex-leaning fragrances were beginning to emerge, challenging traditional gender norms in perfumery.

In contrast, the second version is said to have softened these more rugged elements, introducing a sweeter, fruitier accord that runs through the composition. This subtle shift in balance would have toned down the dry leather and civet, creating a fragrance that was still complex and sensual but more accessible. The added sweetness, likely from the plum and peach notes, would have brightened the overall profile, giving it a more feminine appeal in line with the evolving tastes of the 1980s. However, it is important to note that these observations remain speculative, as I have not personally detected any differences between the fragrance samples I have tried.

Ultimately, whether or not Septième Sens was indeed reformulated, it maintained its luxurious, enigmatic character until its discontinuation in 1986. If there were two versions, they both seem to reflect different facets of the same sophisticated fragrance, adapting to the evolving tastes of modern women while retaining the unique spirit that Sonia Rykiel envisioned.