Rock n Roll by Marquay c1956

Rock n Roll by Parfums Marquay, launched in 1956, emerged as a bold statement of youthful exuberance and freedom. The term “Coup de Feu,” which translates to “a stroke of fire” in French, was used in the USA for this fragrance, suggesting a spark of passion and intensity that resonated with the zeitgeist of the era. The choice of the name “Rock n Roll” reflects not only the burgeoning musical genre that was transforming culture but also a sense of rebellion and vitality associated with youth. Pronounced as it appears—/rɒk/ and /n/ /roʊl/—the term itself originated from African American slang in the 1950s, initially referring to the act of dancing, but it soon evolved into a euphemism for sexual intimacy, encapsulating the thrill and liberation of the era. The phrase conjures images of vibrant music scenes, lively dances, and a spirited rebellion against convention, making it an ideal choice for a fragrance that aimed to capture the essence of youthful energy.

Women of the 1950s, navigating a societal shift towards greater independence and self-expression, would have likely resonated with a perfume named "Rock n Roll." This fragrance symbolized not only the joy and vitality of youth but also a new, liberated attitude towards femininity. It was more than just a scent; it was an embodiment of a lifestyle characterized by freedom, creativity, and the daring spirit of the post-war generation. The name “Rock n Roll” suggested an adventurous, modern woman unafraid to embrace her desires and individuality.

In terms of scent, Rock n Roll is classified as an oriental perfume, presenting a heady and exotic profile with dominant notes of amber, incense, vetiver, and jasmine. The initial impression is one of warmth and sensuality, with amber providing a rich, golden undertone. The smoky, resinous quality of incense adds depth and mystery, evoking an aura of intrigue. Jasmine, with its lush, floral sweetness, enhances the femininity of the fragrance, while vetiver contributes an earthy, grounding element. Notably, the scent features a striking peach note, which introduces a modern twist, marrying sweetness with warmth against a spicy background. This complex composition encapsulates the spirit of the time—bold, multifaceted, and unapologetically expressive.

The launch of Rock n Roll coincided with a vibrant era in the fragrance market, where bold and exotic scents were gaining popularity. This period saw an influx of oriental fragrances, characterized by their warm, spicy notes and luxurious ingredients. However, Rock n Roll distinguished itself by marrying these traditional oriental elements with a contemporary sensibility, appealing to a youthful audience eager for innovation and individuality. In this landscape, the fragrance was both a reflection of and a departure from existing trends, pushing boundaries while remaining accessible to modern women.

The artistic influence of Salvador Dalí in the packaging and advertising campaign added a layer of surreal sophistication to Rock n Roll. Known for his striking and unconventional imagery, Dalí's work was described as depicting “the flame and explosions of the spirit of youth.” By collaborating with an iconic artist, Parfums Marquay elevated the perfume's status, infusing it with a sense of avant-garde artistry that appealed to consumers' desire for uniqueness. The advertising campaign provocatively asked, "What is Rock n Roll? It is more than a perfume. It is a new weapon for the modern woman." This phrase encapsulated the essence of empowerment, suggesting that wearing this fragrance was a bold declaration of identity and independence. In a rapidly changing world, Rock n Roll emerged as a celebration of youthful spirit and a call for women to embrace their passions and desires unapologetically.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental perfume for women. It was described as a heady, exotic, spicy oriental perfume for women with dominant notes of amber, incense, vetiver and jasmine. A spicy, modern perfume with a strong peach odor against a warm background. 

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, carnation, peach, cardamom, neroli, saffron
• Middle notes: spices, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, ylang ylang, clove, tuberose, geranium
• Base notes: frankincense, Russian leather, vanilla, ambergris, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli, vetiver, labdanum, civet, benzoin

Harper's Bazaar, 1960:

"Coup de Feu by Marquay is another new arrival from Paris. This one, however, is exotic, Oriental, fittingly packaged by Salvador Dali, who knows, if anyone does, about “the flame and explosions of the spirit of youth” typified by this perfumes. Two other perfumes from the same hose are newly available here: they are L’Elu and Prince Douka."

Combat : organe du Mouvement de libération française, 1960:

"Sponsored by that kind of genius and unusual alchemist of contemporary painting that is Salvador Dali, this perfume which he says is 'the most Dionysian in the world', hides under the princely release of jasmine, the most sensual plot of musk and of Russian leather, expertly dosed. Wild notes of Asian saps and enchantments of the African forest deserve its name of wild dance. But 'Rock n' Roll' is more pathetic than it seems in its first attempt at a full-fledged sense of smell. The jungles with carnivorous flowers and the deserted high plateaus where the lost chevrotains awaken to love, are hidden behind the overflowing violence of a spring bouquet. It is the ideal perfume of those beautiful creatures who seem to want only to reap the pleasure of living, but who secretly burn with the sneaky aspiration of intense, more corrupt passions. The tawny and secret scent for dangerous liaisons."

 

Comprehensive Scent Profile:

In the captivating world of Rock n'Roll, each ingredient unfolds its story, inviting you on a sensory journey that reflects the exuberance of the mid-1950s. This oriental perfume is a complex tapestry woven from bold and delicate notes that ignite the imagination.

As you first encounter Rock n'Roll, the air is charged with the invigorating effervescence of aldehydes—a crisp, almost sparkling scent that dances playfully. They are swiftly joined by the juicy brightness of bergamot, reminiscent of sunlit citrus groves, where the zest invigorates your spirit and awakens your senses. The fragrance evolves, introducing a carnation that adds a spiced floral depth, evoking the lush petals of this vibrant bloom. 

And then, peach enters the stage, its luscious, sweet aroma enveloping you like a warm embrace, rich and ripe, evoking memories of lazy summer afternoons. As this delightful fruity note unfolds, the exotic essence of cardamom emerges—a fragrant spice that brings an exhilarating warmth, with its slightly sweet and peppery undertones adding a touch of intrigue. 

Neroli, with its fresh, green, and citrusy aroma, further brightens the composition, imparting an uplifting note that balances the heavier scents. Finally, saffron, the most precious of spices, weaves a golden thread through the perfume, offering an earthy richness that whispers of ancient opulence, adding a luxurious depth that is truly enchanting.

As the opening notes fade, the heart of Rock n'Roll blooms with an intoxicating bouquet of spices and florals. The aroma of rose unfolds, its romantic and velvety petals enveloping you in an aura of timeless beauty and grace. Nestled beside it, jasmine radiates its intoxicating sweetness, offering a lush, creamy texture that heightens the perfume's sensual allure. 

The addition of orange blossom introduces a touch of sunny brightness, its delicate fragrance reminiscent of blooming citrus trees in the spring. Ylang ylang adds a tropical, exotic flair, with its sweet and slightly fruity aroma inviting you to lose yourself in its luscious embrace. 

A hint of clove adds a warm spiciness, evoking cozy evenings filled with warmth and comfort, while the rich, creamy floral note of tuberose deepens the experience, conjuring images of moonlit nights. Geranium introduces a fresh, green nuance, enhancing the floral complexity and offering a subtle, rosy undertone that lingers playfully.

As the fragrance unfolds further, the base notes envelop you in a rich tapestry of warmth and sensuality. The profound, resinous scent of frankincense transports you to distant lands, its smoky, sacred aroma inviting contemplation and reverence. Russian leather adds an intriguing twist, its deep, animalic scent reminiscent of luxurious, well-worn jackets, contributing to the overall depth and richness. 

Vanilla wraps the fragrance in a soft, creamy sweetness, adding warmth and comfort, while the rich, briny aroma of ambergris lends an air of sophistication and mystery, reminiscent of sun-warmed skin. The earthiness of oakmoss grounds the fragrance, imparting a woody, green richness that evokes a sense of nature. Musk envelops the wearer in a sensual embrace, enhancing allure with its warm, skin-like quality. 

The smooth, creamy notes of sandalwood bring a meditative quality, enriching the base with its calming and grounding essence. As the scent evolves, tonka bean infuses a sweet, slightly nutty warmth, while patchouli adds an earthy, woody richness that enhances the perfume’s exotic character. Finally, the resinous notes of labdanum, civet, and benzoin weave together to create a dense, lingering richness—each adding a unique facet to this sumptuous fragrance, contributing to its intoxicating, heady essence.

In Rock n'Roll, every note comes together to create an unforgettable olfactory experience that celebrates the spirit of modernity, freedom, and sensuality, making it a signature scent for the audacious and adventurous woman of the 1950s.

Bottles:

Salvador Dalí’s design for Marquay’s Coup de Feu (Rock n' Roll) is a striking visual representation of the perfume's bold essence. The packaging, characterized by its fiery red and deep black colors, captures the imagination and evokes a sense of passion and intensity. The rich crimson hue symbolizes the vibrant energy of youth and the excitement of the era, while the dark accents create a dramatic contrast, suggesting mystery and allure. The combination draws the eye, inviting curiosity about the fragrance contained within.

Dalí’s artistic vision for the design speaks volumes about the spirit of the 1950s, a decade marked by bold experimentation and cultural revolutions. In his own words, he aimed to convey "the effect of burning nights and fire," reflecting not just the physical heat of passionate encounters but also the fervor and vitality of youth. The imagery of flames suggests transformation and the transient nature of youthful exuberance, resonating deeply with a generation eager to break free from convention and embrace a new, liberated lifestyle.

The avant-garde nature of Dalí’s artwork complements the perfume’s identity, positioning it as one of the most expensive perfumes in Paris. This luxury was not just a reflection of the perfume's formulation but also of its striking presentation, setting a new standard for fragrance packaging in the industry. The artistic collaboration between Dalí and Marquay infused Coup de Feu with an elevated sense of artistry and sophistication, making it more than just a scent; it became a statement piece, a work of art that could be worn and experienced.

In a world where traditional norms were being challenged, Coup de Feu became emblematic of a daring spirit. Women of the time, who were redefining their identities and expressions of femininity, would have been drawn to both the fragrance and its presentation. The perfume, with its artistic heritage and bold packaging, appealed to their desire for sophistication and individuality, making it a luxurious accessory in their evolving lives. Dalí’s design not only captured the essence of Coup de Feu but also echoed the aspirations of a generation ready to embrace their passion and spirit with fervor.

photos from http://www.amourdurocknroll.fr/

Other bottles include:

• 2 oz cologne (or toilet water) flacon with oval mirror.
• 4.5 ox cologne flacon
• 1/4 oz parfum purse flacon with round cut mirror with velvet pouch
• 1/4 oz aerosol parfum purse flacon in lizard sheath

Fate of the Fragrance:

Parfums Marquay's Rock n' Roll was introduced to the market in 1956, capturing the youthful spirit and rebellious energy of the time. Though the exact date of discontinuation is unknown, this bold and exotic fragrance continued to be sold at least through 1965. It has since become a rare and coveted item among collectors, not only for its rarity as a fragrance but also for its association with the iconic artist Salvador Dali. The perfume was housed in a striking red and black packaging, designed by Dali himself, symbolizing the "flame of the spirit of youth," with its fiery aesthetic perfectly mirroring the scent's sensual, daring character.

Today, Rock n' Roll appeals to cross-collectors, those who collect perfume bottles and those who are particularly passionate about Dali's work. These collectors seek out this lesser-known perfume, appreciating both its artistic and historical significance. Its connection to Dali makes it highly desirable, adding to its mystique and driving up prices whenever it appears at auction. This blend of art and fragrance—fused with Dali's surrealist flair—has turned Rock n' Roll into a sought-after collectible that appeals to those who recognize the merging of olfactory and visual artistry. The perfume represents more than just a scent; it is a piece of art history, sought after for its cultural importance and the timeless allure of Dali's creative genius.