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Saturday, January 4, 2014

Vintage La Castillere French Scent Perfume Bottles

This guide explores a specific category of vintage mini perfume bottles that continue to captivate collectors today. Each of these charming bottles is distinguished by the mark "Made in France" inscribed on its base. This label not only signifies their French origin but also adds a layer of historical intrigue to these diminutive treasures.

Often encountered in various online marketplaces, these mini perfumes are celebrated for their elegance and craftsmanship. Despite their widespread availability, detailed information about their production and design remains elusive. This guide aims to shed light on these intriguing collectibles, offering insights into their historical context and the artistry behind their creation.

Initially, I assumed these miniatures were from the period between the 1920s and 1940s. However, after conducting thorough research, I was able to uncover their true production dates. This revelation offers a clearer understanding of their historical context and enhances our appreciation of these elegant, often elusive, pieces of perfume history.




La Castillere:


In 1961, the "Official Bulletin of Civil and Commercial Announcements" reported the establishment of La Castillere, S.A.R.L., a company launched with an initial capital of 10,000 French Francs. This company specialized in the manufacture and sale of gift items, including perfume and jewelry, as well as the import and export of luxury and novelty goods. Its headquarters was situated at 111 Boulevard de Sébastopol in Paris.

The company was initially managed under a lease agreement by Mrs. Gabrielle-Adélaide-Magdelaine Castan, a widow born Beker, who began her role on January 2, 1961. In 1963, Mrs. Castan transitioned to Mrs. Ollivier following her remarriage on August 2 of the same year. At that time, Mrs. Ollivier was residing at 54 Avenue de la Belle-Gabrielle in Nogent-sur-Marne. The company continued its operations under her management, maintaining its focus on luxury and specialty products.

La Castillere appears to have offered its own line of distinctive perfumes, each with a name evocative of French elegance and allure. Among their offerings were:

Chant d'Isles: Translating to "Song of the Isles," this fragrance likely evoked the serene and enchanting qualities associated with distant, idyllic islands. The name suggests a scent that captures the essence of tranquil and exotic locales, promising an olfactory journey to a picturesque escape.

Pomme d'Amour: This name, meaning "Love Apple," refers to the French term for a candied apple, often associated with sweetness and romance. The fragrance likely embodied the allure and charm of this classic treat, combining elements of sweetness and passion in its scent profile.

Une Caresse: Translating to "A Caress," this perfume's name implies a fragrance designed to be as gentle and soothing as a tender touch. The scent was probably crafted to offer a comforting and soft experience, reflecting the delicate nature of its name.

These perfumes from La Castillere not only highlight the company's foray into the world of fragrance but also reflect a penchant for evocative and poetic naming conventions that resonate with the essence of their scents.

In 1967, the "Official Bulletin of Civil and Commercial Announcements" reported the dissolution of La Castillere, S.A.R.L. This Paris-based company, known for its manufacture and sale of gift items, perfumes, jewelry, and other luxury or fancy products, was officially disbanded. The company had previously relocated its headquarters from 113 Boulevard de Sébastopol to 54 Avenue de la Belle-Gabrielle in Nogent-sur-Marne on November 1, 1963.

The dissolution process began with the termination of the lease-management agreement by Mrs. Gabrielle-Adélaïde-Magdelaine Castan, who had become Mrs. Ollivier after her remarriage. This agreement ended on November 1, 1966. The company’s official dissolution was finalized on November 30, 1966, with Mrs. Ollivier appointed as the liquidator. She managed the company's winding-up process from her residence at 54 Avenue de la Belle-Gabrielle in Nogent-sur-Marne.






The Bottles:

The perfume bottles from La Castillere are typically marked with "La Castillere Made in France" on their base. These miniature, purse-sized bottles were primarily designed as souvenir items for tourists visiting France. They were likely available in local shops and might also have been imported to American stores during the 1960s, serving as accessible luxury items for a broader audience.

It is important to note that bottles marked with "La Castillere" are exclusively from the 1960s. Contrary to earlier assumptions, these bottles do not date back to earlier decades.

The bottles in question were crafted by Pochet et du Courval, a renowned French glassworks known for producing a variety of perfume bottles for different companies. Their signature mark, an entwined "HP" symbol, is molded into the base of these bottles.

At the factory, each bottle would undergo decoration, which might include intricate silver overlay latticework, gilding, hand-painted enameling, or delicate etching. While the majority of these bottles are found in clear glass, some rare examples are made of milky opaline glass (opaline veritable) or blue glass. The opaline and blue variations are particularly uncommon, adding a layer of exclusivity to their already distinguished craftsmanship.

The bottles typically featured ornate silver-plated filigree caps, each adorned with a glass dauber for dispensing the fragrance. However, it is not uncommon for the dauber to be missing over time. The caps themselves were crafted in various styles, from intricate Gothic filigree to elegant cast floral patterns, reflecting a range of decorative influences.

Restoring the luster of these caps is possible with some care. I have found that applying a bit of silver polishing cream can effectively revive their shine, enhancing the intricate details and bringing out their original beauty.

Occasionally, you may come across the original boxes for these perfumes. Typically, these boxes are crafted from plain white cardboard, covered either with a simple white paper or gilded paper. They often feature a label displaying the name of the perfume, adding a touch of elegance to the packaging. Inside, the perfume would have been nestled in a small felt or suede pouch, providing both protection and a luxurious presentation.

The labels on these bottles are typically found on their base, often featuring the inscription "La Castillere Made in France" along with the name of the perfume. In some cases, the branding "La Castillere France" is embossed directly into the base of the bottle. This embossing not only serves as a mark of authenticity but also adds a subtle touch of craftsmanship to the design.

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CLICK HERE TO SEARCH EBAY FOR LA CASTILLERE PERFUME BOTTLES


photos by etsy seller tropicalcreations


It appears that some companies acquired leftover stock from La Castillere, repurposing their bottles and boxes by affixing their own labels. Despite these new labels, the bottles themselves are nearly always marked with the original "La Castillere" branding. In such instances, labels from brands like Helene Dale, Brajan, and Oberon can be found on the bottles and boxes. These labels are typically placed on the base of the bottle, strategically positioned to obscure the original La Castillere name that was molded into the glass. This practice of rebranding helps explain the presence of various labels on what are fundamentally La Castillere vessels.


Helene Dale:

The Helene Dale gift shop, renowned for its diverse and upscale offerings, was located at both 5 Rue de Presbourg and 7 Rue Scribe in Paris. Catering primarily to tourists, the shop was well-regarded for its range of discounted costume jewelry available for travelers' checks and its promotional presence on Air France flights, where it was highlighted as a source for unique gifts. Helene Dale’s selection was extensive, including perfumes, gloves, beaded and leather bags, umbrellas, French singing birds, scarves, wines, champagne, liquors, hats, and men's ties from leading designers such as Jacques Fath.

The company began operations around 1939. By 2001, Helene Dale had relocated to 37 Boulevard des Capucines. Notably, any bottles marked "La Castillere" from Helene Dale are dated to the period between 1967 and the 1970s, not before. In addition to carrying La Castillere products, Helene Dale also offered perfumes under their own brand name, including "Helene Dale No. 7."


Oberon:


Oberon, a distinguished French store situated at 9 Rue Scribe in Paris, was a prominent establishment from the 1920s through the 1970s. Known for its diverse selection, Oberon offered a variety of luxury items including perfumes, Kislav gloves, handkerchiefs, beaded purses, dolls, neckwear, and Haviland as well as other Limoges china. Additionally, the store was renowned for its fine liquors and the latest novelties.

Oberon was notable for its extensive range of perfumes, featuring renowned brands such as Fragonard, Lamballe, Nina Ricci, and Mercoeur, alongside their own branded fragrances, including "Une Caresse." Consequently, any bottles marked "La Castillere" from Oberon are specifically from the period between 1967 and the 1970s, not before.




From a 1939 advertisement:

"Oberon Perfumes: Discover three enchanting 2-dram fragrances—Gaiety, Gardenia, and On Top—each priced at just $1. Each bottle is adorned with a hand-cut crystal jewel applicator top, available in Rose, Blue, or Champagne colors."



Brajan:

For more information on Brajan, please refer to another article on my blog. It's important to note that any Brajan bottles bearing the La Castillere mark date to the 1967-1970s period, and not earlier.

1 comment:

  1. Great info - thanks for researching it! I have a bottle and thought it was older based on other sites that apparently were guessing based on appearance.

    ReplyDelete

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