Sheherazade by Jean Desprez c1939

In 1939, the year Jean Desprez launched the perfume "Shéhérazade," Europe was on the brink of World War II. The atmosphere was one of tension and uncertainty as countries prepared for conflict. Despite the looming war, the early 20th century was a time of fascination with exoticism and orientalism in Western culture. The 1930s saw a rise in interest in stories and themes from the Middle East, influenced by literature, art, and travel to distant lands.

Jean Desprez likely chose the name "Shéhérazade" for its evocative power and cultural resonance. Shéhérazade, the legendary Persian queen and storyteller from the collection of Middle Eastern folk tales known as "One Thousand and One Nights" (or Arabian Nights), symbolizes intrigue, allure, and storytelling prowess. Her tales of adventure, romance, and fantasy captivated audiences, making her a timeless symbol of exotic beauty and intelligence.

The term "Jardanel" isn't immediately recognizable as a word in any major language, suggesting it might be a unique or possibly stylized name created for the perfume's branding purposes.

"Shéhérazade" would be an apt name for a perfume in the context of the 1930s. It would have appealed to those who were enchanted by stories of the exotic East, seeking fragrances that transported them to distant lands of mystery and romance. The name conjures images of opulent palaces, shimmering silks, sultry nights filled with tales of love and adventure under starlit skies.

Audiences of the time would likely respond to "Shéhérazade" with intrigue and fascination, drawn to its promise of exoticism and sophistication. The perfume would evoke feelings of mystery, sensuality, and a touch of escapism, providing wearers with a scent that transported them beyond the confines of their everyday lives.

The word "Shéhérazade" evokes images of oriental gardens in moonlight, the spicy aroma of incense, and the warmth of exotic spices like saffron and cinnamon. It carries with it a sense of storytelling magic, of tales spun to captivate and enchant, making it a fitting name for a perfume designed to allure and intrigue.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Shéhérazade, originally launched in 1939 amidst the cultural fascination with orientalism and exotic narratives, faced an unfortunate fate with the outbreak of World War II. The global conflict disrupted production and distribution channels, leading to its swift discontinuation. As the war engulfed Europe and resources were redirected towards wartime efforts, luxury goods like perfumes became scarce commodities. Shéhérazade, with its evocative name and likely luxurious composition, was thus taken out of production for many years, leaving its admirers longing for the scent of distant tales and exotic allure during a period defined by uncertainty and hardship.

Jean Desprez's Sheherazade was indeed not the sole bearer of the enchanting name in the world of perfumery. During different periods, three other companies also crafted their interpretations of Sheherazade, each adding their own unique twist to the legendary storyteller's name. Goldstein and Lall debuted their version in 1940, capturing a moment of intrigue and elegance in the midst of historical turmoil. Massenet followed suit in 1944, possibly influenced by the wartime atmosphere with a fragrance that may have sought to provide a moment of escape and allure. John L. Priess, around 1940, added another dimension to the tale, likely presenting a scent that spoke to the cultural and artistic sensibilities of its time.

Each perfume named Sheherazade likely aimed to embody the mystique and allure associated with the legendary Persian queen and storyteller, albeit through different olfactory compositions and interpretations. These fragrances served as artistic expressions of their respective eras, reflecting the tastes, aspirations, and cultural currents prevalent during their launch periods. While the specifics of their formulas and packaging may vary, their shared name evokes a sense of exoticism, adventure, and storytelling—qualities that continue to fascinate and inspire in the world of perfume creation.

1983 Reformulation & Relaunch:

The 1983 marketing announcement highlighted the anticipation surrounding "Shéhérazade's" launch in the United States and France, marking a deliberate move by Parfums Jean Desprez to expand its portfolio beyond its renowned Bal à Versailles fragrance. The timing, synchronized for April '83, aimed to capitalize on the brand's established reputation while introducing a new olfactory experience to captivate fragrance enthusiasts on both sides of the Atlantic.

Described in "Le Spectacle du Monde" in 1983, "Shéhérazade" was conceptualized as a fragrance that evoked the essence of a seductive and self-assured woman, drawing parallels to Orientalist themes in music and art. Crafted by Marie-Cécile Grenier under the guidance of Denis Desprez, the perfume integrated baroque influences into its composition, creating a tapestry of complex harmonies designed to enchant and intrigue.

The New Yorker, 1983:

"The perfume counter has another recently revived old favorite: Sheherazade, by Jean Desprez; $90 for one-half ounce, $150 for one ounce."

The decision to adopt a contrarian approach against American fragrance giants reflected Parfums Jean Desprez's commitment to artisanal craftsmanship and unique storytelling through scent. This strategic stance not only differentiated "Shéhérazade" in a competitive market but also sustained the brand's impressive growth trajectory, with turnover doubling every three years over a twelve-year period.

"Ten years ago, the name was more important than the product. With a good name, you could get away with anything. But now consumers are more educated and they want quality. We want to find a perfume that will carry on the old-world tradition and will also be correct for today's market," said Desprez.

Denis Desprez acknowledged the risks involved in launching a new fragrance, particularly for a smaller company like his own. Investing over $1 million to produce the initial batch underscored their commitment to quality and craftsmanship, reflecting a shift in consumer expectations towards substance over mere name recognition. As Desprez aptly put it, a decade ago, a brand's name could overshadow product quality, but today's discerning consumers demanded authenticity and excellence.

In the world of fragrance, exclusivity and innovation often define success, and Jean Desprez's "Shéhérazade" exemplified this ethos through its strategic placement exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue. This distribution choice underscored the perfume's prestige, aligning it with a discerning clientele seeking luxury and distinction.

Overall, "Shéhérazade" not only embodied the allure of exclusivity and artistic flair in fragrance but also positioned Parfums Jean Desprez as a formidable player in the luxury perfume industry, resonating with aficionados who appreciated the blend of cultural richness and sensory indulgence that the perfume promised.

Product Marketing and Cosmetic & Fragrance Retailing, 1983:

"Retailers who have enjoyed sales from Parfums Jean Desprez's Bal a Versailles will be the recipients of a new Desprez women's fragrance, Sheherazade, scheduled for simultaneous April '83 launches in the U.S. and France."

Le Spectacle du monde - Issues 256-261, 1983:

 "SHEHERAZADE The latest from Jean DESPREZ Parfums, "Sheherazade" was defined by Mr. Denis DESPREZ and composed by his sister, Marie - Cécile Grenier. The title chosen for this new line is intended to be an evocation of the seductive and narcissistic woman, theme expressed among the Oriental Counts, as in the music of Ravel, Rimsky Korsakoff and by the choreographers of the Diaghilev school. The confusing harmonies intertwine in this olfactory composition which integrates baroque chords in its content and in the choice of the media, but in no case through promotional sales. We have deliberately chosen a "contrarian" which suits an artisanal state of mind and which is the only one that we can adopt against the American giants to maintain our rate growth. D. D. Last year, our growth was more than 50%. On average, we can say that our turnover doubles every three years, and has been doing so for twelve years."

Fragrance Composition:

In 1983, the iconic "Shéhérazade" by Jean Desprez underwent a significant reformulation under the creative direction of Marie-Cécile Grenier and the expertise of International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) perfumers. This new iteration aimed to preserve the essence of the original 1939 formula while infusing it with contemporary sensibilities and olfactory trends. Denis Desprez, reflecting on this revitalization, characterized the fragrance as a harmonious blend of floral richness, rosy accents, and the warm, evocative notes of woods, oriental spices, and tobacco.

The reformulation process was meticulous, honoring the legacy of the perfume's namesake while adapting to modern preferences and technical advancements in fragrance composition. Grenier and the IFF perfumers carefully balanced the floral elements, enhancing the bouquet with layers of oriental spices that added depth and allure. The inclusion of tobacco notes provided a sophisticated edge, intertwining with the woodsy undertones to create a fragrance that was both timeless and contemporary.

La Spectacle du Monde, 1983;

"SHEHERAZADE the latest born from Jean DESPREZ Perfumes," SHEHERAZADE "was defined by Mr. Denis Desprez and composed by his sister, Marie-Cécile Grenier. The title chosen for this new line is meant to evoke women."

Denis Desprez's description of "Shéhérazade" as floral, rosy, woodsy, oriental, and tobacco encapsulated its multi-faceted appeal. Each element contributed to a complex olfactory journey, evoking the opulence of oriental tales and the enchanting charisma of its legendary namesake. This reinterpretation not only paid homage to Jean Desprez's original vision but also positioned "Shéhérazade" as a compelling choice for those seeking a fragrance that blended tradition with innovation, embodying the enduring allure of the oriental fragrance category.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral aldehyde chypre fragrance for women. It starts with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a sweet ambery and powdery, mossy base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, orange, chamomile, blackcurrant, bergamot, geranium, pepper berries, nutmeg, cloves and rosewood
• Middle notes: mimosa, coriander, tarragon, daisy, lily of the valley, hyacinth, gardenia, rose, orange blossom, carnation, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orris and cassia
• Base notes: patchouli, wormwood, labdanum, tonka, incense, leather, civet, ambergris, pine nuts, vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, musk, vetiver, oakmoss, opoponax and benzoin

Groupe Jeune Afrique Magazine, 1985:

"Oriental  nights ... with Scheherazade by Jean Desprez. A great chypre classic. 50 ml: 225 FF, atomiser: 240 FF."

Africa, 1986:

"Dream of an oriental princess, Scheherazade by Jean Desprez conceals all the sensuality of the Orient. A composition which brings together the richness of jasmine and the subtlety of rose. Sandalwood, vetiver, nutmeg and pimento berries 'matching the rhythm of blackcurrant and orange blossom. Sheherazade, all the emotion of a chypre with floral notes: and fruity on an air of the Thousand and One Nights. "

 

Scent Story:

As the evening descends into a tapestry of deepening shadows, you find yourself drawn into a tale woven with the threads of Scheherazade's essence. The air is infused with a crisp aldehydic freshness, like the first breath of a cool breeze on a warm summer night. It carries hints of orange zest, bright and invigorating, mingling with the subtle sweetness of chamomile and the tangy allure of blackcurrant. These initial notes dance around you, creating an atmosphere of anticipation and intrigue.

As the story unfolds, the heart of Scheherazade reveals itself in a bouquet of exotic florals. Mimosa blooms with its golden petals, releasing a delicate, honeyed fragrance that entwines with the herbaceous warmth of coriander and the green spiciness of tarragon. The air is filled with the intoxicating sweetness of daisies and the ethereal freshness of lily of the valley, each flower adding its own layer to the unfolding narrative. Gardenia blooms luxuriate in the moonlight, their creamy aroma mingling with the heady scent of roses and the citrusy brightness of orange blossom. Ylang-ylang lends its tropical allure, while jasmine and carnation add a touch of sensuous depth. Orris root whispers of powdered elegance, its violet-like essence enveloping you like a silk scarf.

Beneath the floral tapestry lies a base that anchors the tale in a rich, ambery embrace. Patchouli weaves its earthy notes with the bittersweet aroma of wormwood, while labdanum adds a resinous depth. Tonka bean and vanilla unfold a sweet, powdery veil over the mossy, woody base of Mysore sandalwood and vetiver. Incense swirls in the background, its smoky tendrils intertwining with the warmth of leather and the animalic touch of civet. Ambergris lends a subtle maritime tang, while oakmoss and benzoin evoke the whisper of ancient forests. Opoponax adds a resinous sweetness, drawing the story to a close with its comforting warmth.

As you immerse yourself in Scheherazade's tale, you hear the rustle of silk and the soft murmur of distant voices, as if echoes of the past weave through the fragrance. You touch the petals of jasmine and feel their velvet softness, and your fingertips brush against the smooth, cool surface of sandalwood. Each ingredient unfolds like a chapter in a story, creating a sensory journey that transports you to a realm where tales and fragrances intertwine, leaving an indelible mark on your memory.

Cosmopolitan, 1984:

"The seductive magic of the legendary Sheherazade is captured in the new fragrance of that name from Jean Desprez, the Bal a Versailles perfumer."

Bottles:

The unveiling of the new scent Scheherazade was as much a story of discovery as it was of creation. Denis Desprez, guided by his wife Martine's passion for collecting bottles, stumbled upon a treasure in a Left Bank antique store— standing tall at 7 inches - a Bohemian bottle from the 1880s, radiant with its delicate crystal and intricate design. Displayed in their living room, this minaret-like flask captivated Desprez for two years before inspiration struck: it was destined to cradle their next olfactory masterpiece. The bottle became more than just a vessel; it was a muse that inspired the perfume's essence—a blend of tradition and contemporary sophistication.

"It was in an antique shop, and it stood about 7 inches high. It was of crystal far more delicate than we can reproduce here, and I offered to buy it for my wife, Martine, who collects bottles. We displayed it in the living room and I watched it for about two years. Then, one evening, it came to mind that it should be the bottle of our next fragrance," said Denis Desprez.  

Designed by the renowned Pierre Dinand, the crystal flacon exuded elegance and history, embodying the opulence of a bygone era. Its intricate craftsmanship and delicate crystal surpassed modern reproductions, adding a touch of authenticity to Scheherazade's allure.  

New York Magazine, 1983:

"Sheherazade . . . the new fragrance by Jean Desprez is as entrancing as the storyteller who inspired it. Sheherazade minaret-like perfume flacon is a replica of an antique Cristal de Boheme bottle (circa 1880)." 

In resurrecting the Bohemian bottle's charm for Scheherazade, Parfums Jean Desprez aimed to not only honor old-world traditions but also to captivate modern sensibilities. The crystal flacon, with its timeless elegance and historical significance, served as a fitting tribute to the legendary storyteller whose tales of enchantment and intrigue continue to resonate across generations. 

The 1983 version was available in the following:

• 1 oz Parfum Splash
• 1/2 oz Parfum Splash
• 1/4 oz Parfum Splash
• 1/4 oz Parfum Purse Spray
• 2 ml Eau de Parfum Splash Mini 
• 1.66 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray
• 3.3 oz Parfum de Toilette Spray

 Fate of the Fragrance:

The newer version of Sheherazade, launched with much anticipation and packaged in a meticulously chosen Bohemian bottle, enjoyed a brief but memorable presence in the fragrance market. Introduced around 1983, it captured the essence of exoticism and sophistication that defined Parfums Jean Desprez's approach to perfume creation. With its complex floral aldehyde chypre composition, blending fresh top notes with a richly layered heart and a warm, ambery base, Sheherazade evoked a sense of timeless allure.

However, despite its initial promise and the unique charm of its packaging, Sheherazade's availability was relatively short-lived. By the mid-1980s, around 1986-1987, the perfume had quietly faded from the shelves. The reasons for its discontinuation are rooted in the challenging dynamics of the fragrance industry, where changing consumer preferences and market trends often dictate the longevity of a scent's lifespan.

For collectors and enthusiasts, Sheherazade remains a coveted gem—a fragrance that briefly graced the olfactory landscape, leaving an indelible impression with its blend of oriental mystique and elegant floral notes. Its limited availability adds to its allure, prompting nostalgic recollections of an era when perfumes were crafted with meticulous care and packaged in vessels that mirrored their exquisite contents. As a testament to its legacy, Sheherazade by Jean Desprez continues to be remembered fondly, cherished for its brief but impactful presence in the realm of haute perfumery.