Cleopatra's Boudoir: Les Parfums Sterlé

Les Parfums Sterlé, a notable venture by the Parisian jeweler Pierre Sterlé, emerged in the 1950s, marking an elegant intersection between haute couture jewelry and the art of perfumery. Founded by Sterlé, renowned for his exquisite jewelry designs, the perfume line reflected the same opulence and sophistication that characterized his precious creations. His approach to fragrances was not merely about scent but an extension of his unique aesthetic vision.

The perfume range was launched during a time when Paris was the epicenter of fashion and luxury, and Les Parfums Sterlé was well-positioned to capture the essence of this glamorous era. The 1950s were marked by a return to grandeur after the war, and Sterlé's fragrances embodied this resurgence with their luxurious and refined profiles. The bottles, designed to echo the artistry of Sterlé’s jewelry, were crafted with meticulous attention to detail, often adorned with intricate patterns and luxurious materials that complemented the elegance of the scents they held.

Sterlé's foray into perfumery was a natural extension of his jewelry business, reflecting the same high standards of craftsmanship and aesthetic sensitivity. Each fragrance in the Les Parfums Sterlé collection was designed to evoke a sense of exclusivity and sophistication, aligning with the brand’s reputation for luxury. This perfume line, while perhaps overshadowed by the broader landscape of mid-century fragrance offerings, remains a fascinating example of how the worlds of high fashion and fine perfumery can intersect, creating a legacy that is as rich in scent as it is in style.

In 1955, Pierre Sterlé, the distinguished Parisian jeweler, encountered significant financial challenges, marking a turning point in his venture into the world of perfumery. The launch of his two perfumes, Huit-Huit and Diam, proved to be a financial misstep. Despite his reputation for opulent jewelry, Sterlé's foray into fragrances faltered due to a critical oversight: he consistently neglected to account for the manufacturing costs of his perfumes. This oversight forced him to sell the products at a loss, further exacerbating his financial difficulties. The lavish nature of his perfume bottles and their production costs contributed to the inability to achieve profitability, ultimately leading to a financial disaster for the brand.

Sterlé's exclusive distribution in the United States was handled by the Jarno Distributing Company of Chicago, Illinois, showcasing the brand’s ambition to penetrate the American market despite the financial setbacks. However, the perfumes did not achieve the commercial success that was hoped for, and by 1970, Sterlé decided to discontinue his perfume line. The decision was driven by the need to focus solely on his core business—jewelry—where his expertise and reputation could be leveraged more effectively.

An excerpt from the N.A.R.D. Journal in 1964 highlights the introduction of Sterlé's fragrances in the U.S. market: "HUIT HUIT for brunettes, and Diam for those with lighter hair and skin tones, created by Les Parfums Sterlé, Paris, France, are being introduced in the United States by Boitel - Aumont Corporation, 100 Park Avenue, New York City." This note reflects the brand's efforts to appeal to different demographics with Huit-Huit aimed at brunettes and Diam tailored for lighter hair and skin tones, embodying Sterlé’s nuanced approach to fragrance. Despite the initial promise, the perfumes failed to turn a profit and Sterlé ultimately refocused on his jewelry business, which remained his true forte.

The perfumes of Sterlé:

1955 S Eau de Sterlé
1955 Andantino
1955 Diam
1955 En Revant
1955 Lecon d'Amour
1955 Eau Forte
1955 Irradiance
1955 Monsieur Sterlé
1955 Huit-Huit
1956 Tertio

Huit Huit (Eight -Eight):

Introduced in 1955, "Huit-Huit" by Pierre Sterlé was a perfume that drew inspiration from the jeweler’s expertise in diamond cutting. Its name, meaning "Eight-Eight," referred to the specific diamond cut featuring eight facets to both the crown and the pavilion, along with the table. This intricate design element mirrored Sterlé’s commitment to precision and luxury, translating his expertise from the world of jewelry into perfumery.

Sterlé's ambition was evident in the creation of Huit-Huit, which he declared to be the most precious perfume in the world. In a notable gesture, the perfume was approved by the municipal council of Paris for presentation to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II during her reception on April 10, 1957, at the Hôtel de Ville in Paris. This gesture underscored Sterlé's high aspirations for his fragrance, aligning it with the grandeur and prestige of royal events.

The perfume was introduced to the public at the Plaza-Athénée in 1955, a venue befitting its luxurious nature. Combat, a contemporary publication, noted that the name "Huit-Huit" was a reference to a particular diamond cut, and described the perfume as "radiant and incorruptible like a diamond." Despite its claim to be the most precious, Huit-Huit faced commercial challenges. In 1956, it was labeled as the "world's most expensive perfume," retailing in France at 28,000 francs (about $70) for just 1/3 of an ounce. Adjusted for inflation, that would correspond to $820.61 in 2024. Nevertheless, it saw substantial sales, with over 50 gallons sold within the first four months.

Combat, 1955:

"Huit Huit - it is today that Pierre Sterlé presents, in the salons of the Plaza-Athénée, the first perfume created by a great jeweler. His name 'Huit-Huit', will not fail to intrigue. It is the one of a very particular size of the brilliant. However, as Sterlé announces, his perfume, which he claims is the most precious in the world, is 'radiant and incorruptible like a diamond'. It is a high ambition. I will tell you, next Friday, if 'Huit-Huit' seems to me to keep its promises."

In 1956, it was known as the "world's most expensive perfume", retailing in France at 28,000 francs ($70) for 1/3 of an ounce. Yet, in spite of its high price, more than 50 gallons had been sold within four months. Huit Huit was eventually discontinued sometime in the 1970s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Huit-Huit is described as warm, sweet and fruity fragrance for women and was created to be worn by brunettes.

Top notes: grapefruit, bergamot, aldehyde, peach, blackcurrant, cyclamen, Japanese camelia, lily of the valley, hyacinth
Middle notes: gardenia, Bulgarian rose, orris, violet, jasmine, tuberose, oregano
Base notes: benzoin, patchouli, tonka bean, ambergris, vanilla, honey, spices, musk, oakmoss, sandalwood

Huit-Huit's composition was described with poetic flair in various publications. Combat in 1959 evoked imagery of a perfume that was a "gem," likening its scent to the allure of diamonds and precious stones, blending jasmine, iris, cyclamen, and daffodil with a base of aphrodisiac musk and amber. By 1960, Combat further elaborated on the perfume's luxurious attributes, highlighting its "civilized" brilliance and complex olfactory profile, which included Bulgarian rose, tuberose, lily of the valley, and hyacinth, anchored by a deep, sensual musk.

Combat, 1959:

"Perfume of a jeweler, as it is of a couturier. Huit-Huit de Sterlé is a gem. It's easy to imagine the enticing scent of star jasmine adamantines in diamonds. Here it is molded on the sweet iris of amethysts, the cyclamen of rubies, the daffodil of topazes and all the smells of May, which have the liquid freshness of emerald. The poignant aroma of aphrodisiac musk, barely touched with amber, which ties it all together, could be the solar smell of gold, eternal pledge of burning instincts. Thus this most beautiful perfume is, for me, like the barbaric and supernatural jewel which retains, in the wild grotto of desire, the last veil of Salome."

Combat, 1960:

"This illustrious jeweler's perfume had to have, for the sense of smell, the sumptuous brilliance that a precious jewel offers to the eye. It is a scent of civilized. But the tortuous floating of musk, fixed by a touch of deeply sensual amber lets you imagine a sumptuous wild beast under the well-groomed flesh of the young woman who spreads its reassuring floral bouquet, even if her behavior is of perfect distinction. We recognize soft, haughty and tender breaths in this bouquet: morgue of the Bulgarian rose; insipid charm of the tuberose; green sweetness of the lily of the valley; protrusions of the hyacinth. Yet the musk has the last word. It brings back the secret action of this triumphant aroma to the soft hungers. Women's perfume of of high birth, daughter of an aristocrat, a great bourgeois, a famous sailor, but who knows how not to forget, in the hours of abandonment, that she is simply a woman."

Scent Profile:

Huit-Huit by Pierre Sterlé, introduced in 1955, presents a rich and evocative scent profile that epitomizes the allure of a warm, sweet, and fruity fragrance designed specifically for brunettes. The perfume's composition captures a complex interplay of top, middle, and base notes, creating a scent experience that is both sophisticated and deeply sensual.

The fragrance opens with a vibrant and refreshing blend of grapefruit and bergamot, providing a citrusy sparkle that instantly awakens the senses. This brightness is complemented by the subtle, powdery notes of aldehyde, which lend an airy, sparkling quality. Peach and blackcurrant introduce a juicy sweetness, enhancing the fruity aspect of the scent. Cyclamen adds a touch of delicate floral freshness, while Japanese camelia, lily of the valley, and hyacinth contribute a layered, green floral facet. This combination of top notes creates a dynamic and invigorating introduction to the fragrance, balancing sweetness with crisp, floral undertones.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals a lush bouquet of gardenia, Bulgarian rose, and jasmine. These floral notes add depth and complexity, with the Bulgarian rose offering a rich, velvety quality that aligns with the perfume's luxurious nature. Orris and violet introduce a powdery, refined aspect, while tuberose and oregano provide a bold, slightly spicy twist. This middle phase enhances the perfume’s sophistication, blending the lush florals with subtle hints of spice and warmth.

The base of Huit-Huit is a sumptuous and deeply sensual blend of benzoin, patchouli, and tonka bean. Benzoin adds a resinous, balsamic sweetness, while patchouli introduces a warm, earthy depth. Tonka bean contributes a creamy, nutty sweetness that harmonizes with the rich ambergris. Vanilla and honey add a golden, sugary warmth, enhancing the fragrance’s sweetness and making it feel enveloping and luxurious. Spices, musk, oakmoss, and sandalwood round out the base notes, offering a final touch of warmth and depth. The musk and ambergris create a sensual, slightly animalic undertone that adds complexity and a hint of mystery.

Overall, Huit-Huit is designed to be a dazzling fragrance, reminiscent of a precious jewel. Its warm, fruity, and floral character is balanced by a rich, sensual base, making it an ideal choice for those who seek a fragrance with depth and elegance. The perfume’s opulent composition aligns with Sterlé’s reputation for luxury, embodying a blend of sophistication and sensuality that is both timeless and captivating.

Bottles:

The Huit-Huit perfume by Pierre Sterlé was presented in a striking crystal bottle that exemplified luxury and craftsmanship. The bottle itself featured a distinctive crystal stopper, ingeniously cut to resemble an octagonal diamond solitaire. This design choice not only emphasized the opulent nature of the fragrance but also paid homage to Sterlé's expertise in jewelry design. Adding to the bottle's exclusivity, an 18-karat gold wedding ring encircled the neck of the bottle, serving both as a decorative element and as a functional piece that could be removed and worn as a ring if desired. This thoughtful design detail highlighted the seamless integration of jewelry aesthetics into the world of perfumery.

Manufactured by the esteemed glassmaker Pochet et du Courval, the crystal bottle bore a subtle yet significant mark of authenticity, with "Made in France" molded into the base. This stamp underscored the high-quality craftsmanship and the French origins of the luxurious packaging.

In 1955, Combat described "Huit-Huit" by Pierre Sterlé as a Christmas gift of "extreme refinement." This exclusive perfume was distinguished by its presentation in a bottle adorned with a braided gold ring. This element was a testament to Sterlé’s mastery in blending his jewelry expertise with perfumery, adding a luxurious touch to the already opulent fragrance.

The following year, Jardin des Arts, Volume 2, elaborated on the perfume’s elegant packaging. It described the bottle as crafted from cut crystal and set with a braided gold chainmail ring. This description emphasized the intricate design and craftsmanship of the bottle, which was not only a container but also a piece of art in its own right. The gold chainmail ring enhanced the bottle’s aesthetic appeal, reflecting Sterlé’s commitment to integrating high jewelry elements into his perfume designs.

In 1957, the Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris featured the exclusive perfume line by Sterlé, highlighting the prestigious "Huit-Huit" fragrance. The pricing for this luxurious perfume varied significantly, ranging from 550 Francs, approximately $90.96 USD, to a staggering 26,000 Francs, about $4,300.21 USD. When adjusted for inflation, these amounts translate to roughly $1,035.41 to $48,949.94 in 2024. This substantial range reflected the different presentations and sizes available for the perfume, catering to various levels of opulence and exclusivity.

The most extravagant version of "Huit-Huit" was adorned with an 18-karat gold wedding ring, an element that not only elevated the perfume’s allure but also added a tangible value. This premium presentation was housed in an elegant, oval-shaped hinged jewelry box, reinforcing Sterlé’s reputation for combining fine jewelry with haute perfumery. The luxurious packaging and the inclusion of a precious gold ring underscored the perfume's position as a symbol of ultimate sophistication and exclusivity.

The Huit-Huit Parfum bottle was available in four sizes, catering to various preferences and needs:

The smallest size, 1/2 oz, stood at a modest 1.25 inches tall.
The 1 oz bottle was slightly larger, standing 2.25 inches tall.
The 2 oz version was 3 inches tall, providing a more substantial presence.
Additionally, a miniature replica of the bottle was produced, standing only 1 inch tall, and featured a black bakelite screw cap instead of the crystal stopper.

A modified version of the bottle was also created for the 2 oz Eau de Toilette. This variant, made of clear glass, was fitted with a black bakelite screw cap, diverging from the ornate crystal stopper of the parfum bottles. This adaptation maintained the elegant essence of the original design while offering a practical option for the Eau de Toilette. Each variation of the bottle, with its distinctive features and sizes, reinforced the luxurious and innovative spirit of Sterlé's fragrance collection.

By 1958, L'Art et la Mode noted a significant update to the packaging of "Huit-Huit." The perfume was now available in a sophisticated spray atomizer format. The new bottle featured a tubular container made of white crystal with a sleek black enamel cap. This modern adaptation retained the chic and luxurious essence of the original design while introducing a more convenient and contemporary application method. The change to a spray atomizer made the perfume both practical and stylish, aligning with the evolving preferences of the time while maintaining the perfume’s status as a symbol of exquisite refinement.

Despite its initial success and the opulent acclaim it received, Huit-Huit was eventually discontinued in the 1970s. Its legacy, however, is captured in descriptions like those in the Guide to Europe (1963), which characterized it as "delicate, warm, tenacious, for brunettes and mature women." The Officiel de la Couture et de la Mode de Paris in 1957 noted the high price range for Sterlé’s offerings, further emphasizing the exclusivity of the fragrance, priced between 550 and 26,000 Francs. Huit-Huit remains a testament to Pierre Sterlé’s unique attempt to merge the worlds of haute jewelry and fine perfumery.

Diam:

Launched in 1955, Diam by Pierre Sterlé was a perfume that embodied the same level of sophistication and luxury associated with its creator, a renowned jeweler. The name "Diam" pays homage to the allure and brilliance of diamonds, reflecting Sterlé's commitment to creating a fragrance that resonates with the opulence and refinement of fine jewelry.

The choice of name was fitting for a perfume crafted by a jeweler of Sterlé's caliber. The fragrance was designed to capture the essence of a diamond’s splendor, translating the visual allure of these precious gemstones into a sensory experience. The connection to diamonds was not just in the name but also in the packaging. The bottle was crafted from cut crystal, mimicking the facets of a diamond to create a dazzling effect. This design choice underscored the perfume's luxurious character and reinforced its association with high-end jewelry.

Diam’s launch in the mid-1950s was a testament to Sterlé’s innovative approach, blending his expertise in jewelry with the art of perfumery. The perfume was housed in a crystal bottle that reflected the light with a sparkle akin to that of a diamond, further enhancing its prestigious appeal. The design of the bottle, with its faceted crystal and elegant stopper, was a direct nod to the world of high jewelry, aligning perfectly with Sterlé’s reputation for creating exquisite, luxurious products.

In summary, Diam was not merely a perfume but a statement of elegance and luxury, crafted to embody the brilliance of diamonds. Its name and packaging were thoughtfully designed to resonate with the high standards of Sterlé’s jewelry creations, offering a fragrance that was as refined and captivating as the finest gemstones.