Parfums Renoir

Parfums Renoir was founded in 1939, nestled in Paris’s prestigious 20 rue de la Paix, an address shared by several influential perfume companies. Operating under the larger corporate entity, "Société d'Études et d'Expansion de la Parfumerie de Luxe, Société Anonyme" (SEEPL, SA), Parfums Renoir was one of three notable brands managed by this parent company, alongside Parfums Raucour and Parfums Robert Piguet. In addition to developing its own fragrances, Parfums Renoir also crafted perfumes for other companies, notably collaborating with Robert Piguet, a key player in haute perfumery.

In 1945, Parfums Renoir underwent a rebranding and became Parfums Raucour. However, most of Renoir’s established fragrances continued to be marketed in the United States under the Renoir name, where they were distributed by Mauvel Ltd of New York. This rebranding was part of a strategic pattern within SEEPL, SA, allowing the surviving company to inherit and maintain the fragrance lines, trade dress, and distribution channels of the former company, with only the brand name and packaging adjusting to reflect the new entity.

A prominent example of this brand evolution is the fragrance Futur, initially introduced by Renoir in 1939. Decades later, in 1967, the Futur name was revived by Robert Piguet. Similarly, another perfume named Calypso, released by Renoir under the Raucour label, was later adopted by Piguet. In both cases, these fragrances were preserved and reissued with minimal, if any, reformulation, demonstrating SEEPL’s approach of recycling successful fragrance compositions and names across its brands. This practice ensured continuity in the luxury perfume market and allowed timeless fragrances to maintain their appeal under different brand identities.

Parfums Renoir:

The perfumes of Renoir:

• 1939 Dona Sol (slightly aldehydic, jasmine, oriental floral perfume, good with fur)
• 1939 Futur (a spicy oriental or semi-oriental myrrh perfume)
• 1939 Messager (aldehydic sweet floral jasmine perfume)
• 1941 Impetuous
• 1942 Alibi
• 1942 My Alibi
• 1942 Chi Chi (a spicy, powdery perfume)
• 1942 Witchcraft
• 1942 Aka-Iveh
• 1942 Daring
• 1943 Cattleya Elegans
• 1944 Paradox
• 1945 Pastorale
• 1946 Gambade ((jasmine, rose, lilac, hyacinth and honeysuckle)
• 1947 Grande Epoque (a spicy floral bouquet perfume)
• 1949 Eau de Renoir
• Guirlande
• Pavane

Eau de Renoir:

• Top notes: neroli, bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, lavender, rosemary
• Middle notes: hawthorn, lilac, herbs, orange blossom, clove
• Base notes: oakmoss, vetiver, cedar, sandalwood, musk, benzoin, galbanum, ambergris

Combat, 1955:

"Eau de Renoir - the classic essences of a fine eau de cologne are combined with balsamic aromas and clear floral impulses. They enchant ablutions, stimulate energy, relax muscles after sport. It is the fresh strength that flows back from the body of athletes, on the spring stage. You know, these stages which are announced from afar by an aroma of herbs mingled with the perfumes of lilacs and hawthorns, as the sea announces itself, by the powerful breath of the 'iodine."

Launched in 1949, Eau de Renoir embodies the timeless charm of a traditional eau de cologne, expertly balanced with balsamic richness and gentle florals to create an invigorating, nuanced fragrance. Celebrated by Combat magazine in 1955, Eau de Renoir was described as more than just a cologne; it was a sensory experience intended to enhance daily rituals, offering a unique blend that refreshed, revitalized, and soothed.

The opening of Eau de Renoir is a lively, citrusy burst that is both uplifting and clean. Neroli and bergamot bring a radiant zest, combined with the fresh, slightly bitter green of petitgrain, which complements the brightness with an earthy nuance. Lemon adds a sharper citrus clarity, while lavender and rosemary infuse herbal warmth and an aromatic depth, lending an instant feeling of spring. This aromatic citrus bouquet captures the essence of a classic cologne, blending brisk freshness with a soft, comforting layer of herbs.

At the heart of Eau de Renoir lies a floral and herbal blend that deepens the fragrance’s profile. Hawthorn introduces a delicate, slightly musky floral note, while lilac provides a soft, powdery sweetness. These are intertwined with orange blossom, which adds a warm, honeyed floral touch, and a hint of clove, whose gentle spice contrasts with the sweetness of the florals. Fresh herbs mingle with these florals, enhancing the green and lively qualities of the fragrance and creating an effect reminiscent of a meadow in bloom.

The base of Eau de Renoir is complex and grounding, adding both warmth and depth. Oakmoss and vetiver create an earthy, mossy foundation that harmonizes with the herbal and floral elements above, while cedar and sandalwood lend a woodsy richness, bringing warmth and a hint of creaminess. Musk softens the composition, providing a clean, skin-like warmth, while benzoin adds a balsamic sweetness with a touch of vanilla. Galbanum introduces a sharp, green edge, enhancing the fresh, herbal character. Finally, ambergris—or a synthetic marine note—delivers a faint, salty "breath of iodine," evoking the scent of the sea and a springtime breeze.

As Combat magazine poetically described, Eau de Renoir’s refreshing quality embodies the "fresh strength that flows back from the body of athletes." It’s a fragrance that feels dynamic, like a cool breeze on a sunny spring day, blending floral freshness with earthy, natural undertones. The fragrance's herbal notes mingling with lilac and hawthorn recall open fields or coastal landscapes, while the subtle, oceanic undertone hints at an invigorating sea breeze. Eau de Renoir is designed to rejuvenate both body and mind, offering a refined, natural elegance that’s both timeless and refreshing.

Dona Sol:

Dona Sol by Renoir is described as a slightly sharp aldehydic perfume imbued with sweet jasmine and warm spice, said to be good with furs. The perfume was inspired by the enticing and dramatic Spanish fashions, capturing all the warmth and romance of Spain. "Renoir takes the fire of seven suns to melt the coolest heart in Dona Sol."  

• Top notes: citrus, neroli, bergamot, aldehydes, linden blossom, lemon
• Middle notes: carnation, ylang ylang, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, honeysuckle, lilac, and lily of the valley
• Base notes: vanilla, benzoin, ambergris, clove, sandalwood, musk, and civet

Launched in 1939, Dona Sol by Renoir is a captivating and sophisticated fragrance crafted with a slightly sharp aldehydic opening, softening into the sweetness of jasmine and enriched with warm spices. Inspired by the bold allure of Spanish fashion and culture, Dona Sol was designed to capture the sunlit warmth, fiery passion, and romance of Spain, adding a sultry touch to any outfit—especially when paired with luxurious furs, as noted in its promotional materials. Described with the poetic phrase, "Renoir takes the fire of seven suns to melt the coolest heart in Dona Sol," this fragrance sought to embody an irresistible Spanish mystique. Though it has since been discontinued, it remained available under the Renoir brand until at least 1959, appealing to those who sought a touch of old-world glamour.

The fragrance opens with citrus, neroli, bergamot, aldehydes, linden blossom, and lemon, creating a brisk and refreshing introduction. The combination of aldehydes and citrus would produce a crisp and sparkling brightness, setting the stage for the romantic heart of the fragrance. The sharpness of the aldehydes, along with the lively essence of citrus and the honeyed freshness of neroli, contributes to an opening that is both refined and energizing.

In the heart notes, carnation, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, jasmine, rose, honeysuckle, lilac, and lily of the valley create a lush, complex floral bouquet. The prominence of jasmine and carnation adds depth and warmth, giving the scent a spicy and slightly exotic edge, while orange blossom and ylang-ylang lend a creamy, sensual dimension. Lilac and honeysuckle bring a sweet and delicate fragrance, balancing the heady quality of the other florals with their light, airy scent. The heart is layered with romantic complexity, echoing the fragrance’s Spanish inspiration and evoking a sense of warmth and passion.

Finally, the base notes of vanilla, benzoin, ambergris, clove, sandalwood, musk, and civet add a lingering warmth and sensuality. The blend of vanilla and benzoin offers a creamy sweetness, while ambergris and sandalwood introduce depth and smoothness. The inclusion of clove adds a spicy heat that enhances the warmth of the fragrance. The animalic notes of musk and civet ground the fragrance, imbuing it with a soft, intimate quality that would cling beautifully to furs, as was popular in 1930s and 1940s fashion.

Altogether, Dona Sol exudes elegance and allure, bringing together bright aldehydic notes, sumptuous florals, and a warm, spicy base. It is a fragrance that evokes the sun-drenched landscapes of Spain, embodying a timeless allure that would have appealed to anyone drawn to the passionate, dramatic side of vintage perfumery.

Grand Epoque:

1947 Grande Epoque, a spicy floral bouquet perfume, was Renoir's rich, suave distillation of musk, flowers and rare fruit bases including, surprisingly, fig. Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1957 under Renoir name.

• Top notes: bergamot, clove, fig, coriander
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, orange blossom
• Base notes: musk, spices, ambergris, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, benzoin, civet, castoreum

Launched in 1947, Grande Époque by Renoir was an enticingly rich and spicy floral bouquet fragrance, epitomizing the opulent and daring spirit of post-war perfumery. Known as a "suave distillation of musk, flowers, and rare fruit bases," it delivered a captivating blend that showcased musk, exotic florals, and the surprising warmth of fig. As suggested by its name, "Grande Époque" (meaning "Great Era"), the perfume paid homage to a grand age of elegance and romance, likely evoking nostalgia for a time of lavish style and sophistication. The fragrance remained available until at least 1957, though the date of its discontinuation is unknown.

The perfume opens with top notes that are both fresh and spicy. Bergamot brings a lively and slightly bitter citrus burst, while clove adds an immediate layer of warmth and richness, lending a hint of exotic spice that would intrigue from the first breath. Fig, rarely used in perfumery at that time, provides a unique sweetness tinged with green freshness, setting this fragrance apart with a subtly creamy, fruity touch. Coriander rounds out the top with an aromatic edge, adding depth to the spice without overwhelming the floral character of the fragrance.

In the heart, Grande Époque reveals a lush floral bouquet that captivates with its romantic and sensuous profile. Carnation, with its soft, clove-like spiciness, ties beautifully with the warmth of the top notes, adding continuity to the fragrance's composition. Jasmine and rose add a sweet, velvety richness, creating a seductive floral tapestry, while ylang-ylang introduces an exotic, creamy undertone that is both floral and fruity. Orange blossom brightens the heart, contributing a radiant, fresh floral note that uplifts and lightens the intensity of the spice and musk, making the fragrance feel lively and sophisticated.

The base of Grande Époque is anchored by a deep and luxurious blend of ingredients, exuding a warm and sensual aura. Musk is central to the base, enveloping the other notes with a soft, animalic warmth that was a hallmark of glamorous fragrances of the era. An array of spices enhances the richness, further accentuated by ambergris, which lends a subtle, marine-like warmth and a slight saltiness that deepens the scent's complexity. Patchouli adds an earthy, grounding quality, while sandalwood gives a creamy, woody softness that complements the musky character of the fragrance.

The final touch of vanilla adds a smooth, sweet undertone, harmonizing the floral and fruity aspects of the composition, while benzoin provides a resinous, balsamic warmth. Civet and castoreum, popular animalic notes in vintage perfumes, add a hint of sensuality and mystery, amplifying the musk and giving the scent a long-lasting, memorable finish.

Altogether, Grande Époque by Renoir was a fragrance designed for those who sought depth and sophistication, capturing the essence of a grand era through its opulent ingredients and rich, multi-layered scent.

Messager:

1939 Messager was an aldehydic light white floral perfume, with a warm, velvety, sweet facet, and a dominant jasmine note. Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1959 under Renoir name.

• Top notes: aldehydes, white lilac, bergamot, lemon
• Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, lily, lily of the valley, orange blossom, rose
• Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, ambergris, Corsican cistus labdanum, vanilla, Corsican myrtle

Combat Magazine, 1954:

"Eau Messager by Renoir: Here is a bouquet of white flowers, less ingenuous than it seems. The captivating tuberose, the voluptuous jasmine, the proud and mystical lily dominate the gentle lily of the valley and the sentimental white lilac. A background of precious Corsican wood strangely the diluted aroma of this immaculate bouquet. The 'messenger' who brings it takes from the gods his fatal elegance as a tightrope walker. Does he have the wings of Mercury at his heels?"

Messager, launched in 1939 by Renoir, was a captivating aldehydic floral fragrance that embodied both lightness and warmth, blending the freshness of white florals with a velvety, sweet depth. It was described as an elegant and somewhat mysterious bouquet, with a composition that captivated with its interplay of floral notes and a distinctive, rich backdrop.

The top notes of Messager open with the characteristic sparkle of aldehydes, which bring a bright, soapy freshness to the fragrance. White lilac adds a touch of delicate, sweet floralcy, while the bergamot and lemon introduce a refreshing citrusy zest that invigorates the senses. Together, these elements create a crisp, uplifting introduction to the fragrance, before the deeper, more complex heart notes come into play.

The heart of Messager is a lush, floral symphony where jasmine takes center stage, lending its rich, intoxicating, and slightly sweet floral character. Tuberose, known for its creamy, heady, and somewhat waxy aroma, complements the jasmine with its own opulent and voluptuous nature. Lily and lily of the valley add a lighter, more delicate floral touch, with the lily providing a soft, powdery elegance, while lily of the valley brings a fresh, dewy, and green floral accent. The fragrance also incorporates orange blossom, contributing a slightly honeyed, citrus-sweet note, and rose, which adds a romantic, soft, and powdery floral aspect. These middle notes are rich and enveloping, yet balanced by a sense of refinement.

The base of Messager provides warmth and depth with its blend of vanilla and sandalwood, which create a creamy, smooth, and woody foundation. Ambergris, with its animalic, musky, and slightly salty scent, adds a luxurious, almost mysterious dimension to the perfume. The inclusion of Corsican cistus labdanum—a resin known for its warm, balsamic, and slightly leathery scent—gives the fragrance a refined, earthy warmth. Finally, Corsican myrtle, with its herbal, slightly spicy and fresh quality, adds an aromatic complexity that subtly lingers in the background.

In Combat Magazine's 1954 description, the fragrance is depicted as a "bouquet of white flowers" with a touch of mystery. The blend of tuberose, jasmine, and lily is described as dominating the lighter floral notes of lily of the valley and white lilac, creating a fragrance that is both sensual and ethereal. The Corsican wood and ambergris in the base round out the perfume, lending it a unique richness that adds to its enigmatic appeal. The imagery of a "tightrope walker" and the comparison to Mercury, the messenger of the gods, highlights the fragrance's combination of lightness, elegance, and an almost otherworldly sophistication.

Messager captured the essence of a delicate, yet bold floral arrangement, with a hint of depth that made it perfect for evening wear. Though discontinued, its lasting appeal ensured that it remained on the market under the Renoir name until at least 1959, continuing to evoke the mystique and allure of its original release.

Gambade:

Launched in 1946,  Gambade was described as a youthful blend of jasmine, rose, lilac, hyacinth and honeysuckle. The word "Gambade" is French, and it means "a lively, bounding run" or "a skip," often associated with playful or energetic movement, particularly in a carefree or spirited manner. In the context of the perfume, it likely evokes a sense of joyful, youthful energy or vitality, aligning with the fragrance's fresh, floral, and vibrant character. 

• Top notes: hyacinth, aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: honeysuckle, jasmine, rose, lilac, tuberose, violet, ylang ylang, coriander
• Base notes: musk, sandalwood, galbanum, cedar, ambergris, vanilla, benzoin, civet, patchouli

Gambade was a youthful and vibrant perfume, a captivating blend of florals that evoked both freshness and elegance. Created by Renoir, this fragrance was filled with a lush bouquet of jasmine, rose, lilac, hyacinth, and honeysuckle, offering a delightful blend of sweet floral notes that captured the spirit of the mid-20th century. Discontinued, though still being sold under the Renoir name in 1964, Gambade is a classic representation of the playful yet sophisticated perfumes of the time.

Gambade opens with a lively and invigorating burst of hyacinth, a floral note that is both fresh and slightly sweet, reminiscent of dewy spring mornings. The inclusion of aldehydes lends a light, soapy freshness that was signature to the 1940s, giving the fragrance an airy, almost sparkling quality. Bergamot and lemon add a zesty citrus sharpness, brightening the overall composition with their crisp, tangy essence. Petitgrain offers a slightly bitter, green note, derived from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, which contributes a fresh, woody nuance. Lastly, lily of the valley imparts a delicate, almost ethereal floral note that balances the other bright ingredients with its soft, green, and slightly sweet scent.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a stunning array of florals. Honeysuckle adds a sweet, nectar-like quality, enveloping the wearer in its rich, honeyed scent. The floral richness continues with jasmine, a heady, sweet floral with creamy undertones that lend depth and sensuality. Rose brings a classic, romantic element, with its warm, slightly fruity scent. Lilac adds a touch of spring-like freshness, with its powdery, soft floral aroma evoking gentle breezes and blooming gardens. Tuberose contributes a creamy, slightly waxy floral facet, adding a voluptuous and luxurious feel. Violet brings a delicate, powdery softness, offering a touch of nostalgia and elegance. Ylang ylang infuses the heart with its exotic, rich, and sweet floral scent, giving the fragrance a warm, almost intoxicating sensuality. Finally, coriander brings a touch of spice, adding complexity to the overall composition with its warm, slightly citrusy, and aromatic fragrance.

In the base, the fragrance becomes richer and more sensual. Musk provides a soft, animalic warmth that adds depth and longevity to the perfume. Sandalwood offers a smooth, creamy, and slightly woody scent that anchors the floral heart with its warm, earthy undertones. Galbanum, a resin with a green, slightly balsamic aroma, lends a refreshing yet slightly bitter edge, balancing the sweetness of the florals. Cedar brings a dry, woody note, enhancing the fragrance's overall structure with its clean and aromatic character. Ambergris, a precious material with a warm, marine, and slightly sweet scent, gives the fragrance a rich, sensual finish. Vanilla adds a creamy, comforting sweetness that rounds out the base with its familiar, inviting aroma. Benzoin, a resin with a balsamic, sweet quality, deepens the fragrance, adding a resinous warmth. Civet, with its animalic, musky scent, contributes an exotic richness, while patchouli adds an earthy, slightly spicy note that brings complexity and lasting power to the perfume.

Gambade is a perfume that reflects the optimism and youthful energy of the 1940s, with a blend of fresh, green top notes and a rich, warm floral heart. The addition of aldehydes gives it a clean, crisp character, while the florals, including honeysuckle, jasmine, and rose, create a sweet and romantic atmosphere. The base, with its combination of musk, sandalwood, and ambergris, adds sensual depth, making it a perfume that lingers gracefully on the skin. Gambade's complex floral and woody composition offers both freshness and sophistication, embodying the balance between youthful innocence and mature elegance.

Futur:

Futur, launched in 1939 by Parfums Renoir, is an exquisite example of a sparkling oriental fragrance that blends effervescent freshness with rich, exotic depth. Characterized by its semi-oriental composition, the perfume became known for its bold, vibrant top notes balanced by a warm and resinous base of spices and myrrh. This fragrance was ahead of its time, offering a distinctive combination of both brightness and sensuality, designed to evoke an air of elegance and mystery.

Although Futur was eventually discontinued, with its sale continuing under the Renoir name until 1964, the fragrance’s influence lingered. In 1967, the rights to the Futur name and fragrance were taken over by Parfums Robert Piguet, marking a new chapter for the scent. Its ability to blend bright, fresh notes with warm, resinous undertones made Futur a sophisticated and timeless fragrance, showcasing the artistry of Parfums Renoir in capturing the essence of an era that embraced both elegance and exotic allure.

• Top notes: lemon, orange, petitgrain, aldehydes, bergamot, neroli, green note
• Middle notes: violet, jasmine, ylang ylang, clove, rose
• Base notes: benzoin, labdanum, tonka bean, spices, amber, sandalwood, musk, myrrh, vetiver, patchouli, cedar

Futur (1939) is a perfume that exemplifies the sparkling, elegant complexity of early 20th-century fragrance design, classified as a semi-oriental or sparkling oriental. The fragrance opens with a vibrant burst of citrus notes, featuring lemon and orange, which provide a refreshing, zesty character. These citrus notes are complemented by the green, slightly bitter quality of petitgrain, extracted from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree. Alongside these, aldehydes lend an airy, soapy freshness that creates a light, effervescent beginning, while bergamot and neroli introduce subtle layers of floral and slightly herbal nuance. The top notes combine to create a lively, bright introduction that captures the essence of freshness and elegance.

As the fragrance develops, the middle notes bring a more complex, floral heart. Violet lends a soft, powdery sweetness to the mix, creating a delicate, refined atmosphere. Jasmine and ylang ylang provide an opulent, tropical floral character, with jasmine contributing a rich, heady sweetness and ylang ylang adding a creamy, exotic note. The inclusion of clove introduces a spicy warmth, balancing the florals with a touch of intrigue, while rose enhances the bouquet with its timeless, romantic essence. These floral notes are seamlessly blended, each contributing a unique aspect of softness, warmth, and sensuality.

The base notes of Futur are where the fragrance truly comes into its own, with a deep, warm, and resinous foundation that supports the entire composition. Benzoin and labdanum provide balsamic, sweet, and resinous qualities, lending an amber-like richness that enhances the perfume’s complexity. Tonka bean adds a creamy, vanilla-like sweetness that softens the more intense elements, while spices such as clove and pepper intensify the oriental character. Amber adds a golden warmth, while sandalwood offers a smooth, creamy woody note that grounds the composition. Musk and myrrh deepen the fragrance with their animalic and resinous qualities, creating an intimate, sensual finish. Vetiver and patchouli, with their earthy, woody, and smoky notes, add a smoky complexity to the base, enhancing the richness and depth of the overall composition. Cedarwood’s dry, crisp aroma helps to balance the warm, resinous notes, bringing an elegant finish to this captivating fragrance.

The perfume’s evolution from a bright, citrusy opening to a rich, oriental base makes it a remarkable representation of its era. Futur is a blend of freshness and warmth, with an oriental character that evokes the allure and mystery of the East, balanced by a sophisticated, sparkling quality. This combination of citrus, florals, and deep, resinous woods was a signature of the time, marking Futur as a complex and timeless scent.

Chi Chi:

Chi Chi by Renoir, launched in 1942, is a fragrance that exudes a lively and distinct character. Pronounced "She She," the name Chi Chi likely evokes a playful, almost flirtatious tone, given its repetition and rhythmic quality. While there is no exact translation of "Chi Chi" in English, in French, it could be a playful, affectionate term, often used as a nickname or to convey something charming or delicate. In the context of the perfume, it suggests a fragrance that is both vibrant and enticing—something that evokes the essence of a carefree yet sophisticated spirit.

The perfume was described as a "piquant," "powdery," and "pungent" "daytime spice," a fitting characterization for a scent that sought to capture both warmth and elegance in a way that was suitable for everyday wear. This "daytime spice" suggests a fragrance that is lively, with a strong spicy kick, yet it remains refined enough for use throughout the day.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, coriander, lime
• Middle notes: carnation, clove, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, cinnamon
• Base notes: sandalwood, musk, vanilla, patchouli, benzoin, oakmoss

Chi Chi, launched in 1942, greets you with a bright and sparkling burst of aldehydes, their effervescent, almost soapy quality, creating an immediate sense of cleanliness and freshness. As they unfurl, a sharp citrus accord emerges—bergamot, with its slightly bitter edge, cuts through the initial sweetness, while lemon brings a sharp, zesty bite, like a sunbeam on a warm day. These citrus notes are soon joined by the tangy, almost tart edge of lime, which adds a refreshing lift to the opening. There's an invigorating snap to the air, as if the world has just been dusted with a fresh layer of brightness. Then, the subtle coriander enters, its warm, spicy, and slightly citrusy aroma adding a gentle edge to the citrus mix, offering a hint of peppery warmth that balances the sharpness, creating a more complex, aromatic foundation.

As the top notes begin to settle, the perfume evolves into its floral heart. Carnation steps forward with its spicy, clove-like character, which fills the air with a comforting warmth. Its rich, slightly powdery scent carries an earthy depth, yet there's a delicate sweetness that weaves through it. Clove, too, makes its presence known in this bouquet—intense, pungent, and unmistakably warm, its sharp, aromatic quality blending seamlessly with the carnation, enhancing its spicy profile. Alongside them, ylang ylang introduces an exotic sweetness, soft and velvety, with hints of creamy florals and a touch of banana-like ripeness. The rose blooms in the heart of Chi Chi, its timeless, feminine scent unfolding with an unmistakable soft, powdery sweetness, combining with the spicy, sweet warmth of jasmine. This jasmine is not the heady, overbearing type but rather a gentle, delicate version, lending a sense of lushness to the floral bouquet. Cinnamon, with its sweet yet sharp spiciness, adds a final flourish to this heart, bringing a layer of heat and complexity that perfectly complements the softness of the flowers.

Finally, the fragrance settles into its base notes, where the warm, creamy richness of sandalwood envelops everything. The wood feels soft yet substantial, like the smoothest of surfaces, with a subtle, almost milky undertone that grounds the fragrance, offering balance to the intense spiciness above. The sensuality of musk deepens the scent, adding a warm, animalistic touch, while vanilla weaves its creamy, sweet richness throughout, softening the sharpness of the spices and providing a smooth finish to the overall composition. The earthy, slightly woody nuances of patchouli ground the perfume further, bringing a complex, resinous depth that lingers, while the balsamic sweetness of benzoin adds a resinous, slightly smoky warmth. Oakmoss brings a touch of nature to the base—a deep, forest-like scent with an earthy, woody undertone that enriches the composition, offering a soft, slightly damp finish that connects the perfume to the earth beneath it.

Together, these ingredients create a complex, spicy aldehydic fragrance that feels both refreshing and warm, lively and comforting. The sparkling citrus opening contrasts with the warm, spiced heart and deep, sensual base, making Chi Chi a fragrance of striking elegance and sophistication. It is a perfume that evolves beautifully on the skin, unfolding its layers over time, each one revealing a new facet of its spicy, floral, and woody composition.

My Alibi:

My Alibi by Parfums Renoir, launched in 1942, is a fragrance that evokes intrigue and mystery through its name alone. The word “alibi” traditionally refers to a form of defense or excuse, often used to explain one’s whereabouts or actions during an event or crime, suggesting a hidden truth or secret. The name “My Alibi” implies a narrative of concealment, a story untold, and the allure of a carefully crafted image. It invites a sense of enigma, a fragrance that might be worn to protect or hide one's true intentions, or perhaps to seduce and mystify. The phrase evokes emotions of suspense, secrecy, and sensuality, hinting at a world of hidden desires and unspoken intentions. The idea of an alibi also brings to mind a certain sophistication, as if the wearer is crafting their own persona, leaving others to wonder what lies beneath.

The scent itself, described as "sultry" with a "pungent amber odor," matches this mysterious and seductive persona perfectly. As an oriental fragrance for women, My Alibi would have been rich, warm, and enveloping, with the deep, resinous warmth of amber dominating its base. This amber note would give the fragrance a sensual, slightly sweet and earthy quality, making it feel intimate and almost tactile, like a secret waiting to be discovered. The term "sultry" conveys heat and seduction, suggesting a fragrance that draws you in with its intensity and warmth, much like an evening wrapped in the embrace of velvet darkness.

Given its oriental classification, My Alibi likely featured a blend of spicy, floral, and woody notes, with a richness that speaks of distant, exotic lands. The "pungent" descriptor indicates a strong, bold presence—perhaps with elements such as myrrh, patchouli, and spices, which are common in oriental perfumes. These notes would combine to create an aura of mystery and allure, much like the name itself. The fragrance would have been one that lingered in the air, leaving an indelible impression, evoking images of shadowy rooms, quiet conversations, and the allure of the unknown.

In choosing the name "My Alibi," Parfums Renoir seemed to be suggesting that the perfume itself could serve as an excuse or explanation—an essential part of one's persona, protecting the wearer’s deepest secrets while simultaneously enhancing their presence. The name itself adds a layer of sophistication, turning the fragrance into more than just a scent; it becomes an accessory, a statement of mystery, and an embodiment of the woman who dares to wear it. The evocative power of “My Alibi” ensures that the fragrance stands out as something more than just an olfactory experience, inviting wearers and admirers alike to explore the hidden depths of its complex, sultry layers.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, orange, aldehydes, cinnamon, clove
• Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, rose, nutmeg, cardamom, gardenia
• Base notes: ambergris, myrrh, opoponax, vanilla, sandalwood, musk, patchouli

My Alibi by Parfums Renoir opens with an initial burst of brightness from the citrus top notes. First, the bergamot arrives with its vibrant, slightly bitter edge, like a fresh, zesty wave washing over the senses. It's immediately followed by the sharp, clean scent of lemon, which adds a refreshing, tangy sharpness, like biting into a sun-warmed fruit. The orange note rounds out the citrus trio, bringing a more rounded, sweet and juicy facet, like the mellow, sun-drenched sweetness of an orange peel. These bright notes, fresh and effervescent, give an uplifting introduction to the fragrance, but there's something more mysterious hiding beneath, as the sharpness of aldehydes begins to whisper through the blend. The aldehydes add an airy, soapy quality—clean yet slightly metallic—creating a texture that gives the perfume an almost ethereal weightlessness. As the fragrance unfurls further, the spices make their entrance, beginning with cinnamon. The cinnamon is warm, sweet, and slightly pungent, its spicy heat enveloping the citrus brightness in a subtle, comforting embrace. Clove follows, sharper and more aromatic, adding an earthy intensity that deepens the complexity of the scent, providing a sense of warmth and spice that beckons you in closer.

As the fragrance transitions into the heart, the floral notes emerge, lush and intoxicating. The jasmine is creamy, voluptuous, and slightly indolic, with a rich, honeyed undertone that speaks of midnight blooms in a warm, dusky garden. The tuberose joins in, opulent and heady, creating a fuller, almost narcotic quality that suggests a touch of the exotic, its creamy sweetness both captivating and intense. Then, the rose note sweeps in, soft and romantic, balancing the heavier florals with a gentle sweetness. It’s a classic, timeless rose, evocative of dewy petals, soft and feminine, yet adding a complexity when paired with the bold florals. The spice and warmth of nutmeg and cardamom gently punctuate the bouquet, bringing a subtly warm and slightly sweet, peppery character that heightens the exotic quality of the florals. The gardenia adds a creamy, white floral quality, evoking the smooth, velvety petals of the flower, sweet yet with a deep, almost green undertone, giving the heart of this fragrance a touch of elegance and sophistication.

In the dry-down, the fragrance takes on a deeper, more sensual character as the base notes begin to reveal themselves. The presence of ambergris brings an oceanic, musky richness, with a sweet, slightly animalic warmth that lingers and envelops the wearer in a soft, almost tactile embrace. Myrrh follows, resinous and smoky, adding a sacred, almost meditative quality to the composition with its balsamic, earthy undertones. The opoponax enhances this further with its warm, honeyed, and slightly balsamic sweetness, deepening the fragrance’s oriental character. Vanilla adds a comforting, creamy sweetness, bringing a soft, edible warmth that contrasts beautifully with the resinous and spicy base, balancing the perfume and giving it a seductive, almost gourmand edge. Sandalwood imparts a smooth, creamy woodiness to the base, with its earthy richness evoking the warmth of a finely crafted wooden chest, filled with treasures. Musk contributes to the sensuality of the fragrance, with a soft, animalic undertone that binds the composition together, giving it a seductive, skin-like warmth. The final touch of patchouli brings an earthy, slightly sweet, and dry herbal note that lingers, grounding the entire fragrance with its rich, dark undertones, adding complexity and depth.

Taken as a whole, My Alibi is a fragrant story of contrast and balance, where the bright, citrusy opening fades into an intoxicating floral heart, only to be grounded by the sultry, resinous, and spicy depths of the base. Each ingredient contributes to an overall impression of mystery and sensuality, a fragrance that seems to hold secrets within, beckoning the wearer to explore its rich, layered depths.

Raucour:

Raucour's perfumes, like many of Renoir’s creations, were presented in clear glass bottles that epitomized the elegance and sophistication of the time. The bottles, though simple in their transparency, were elevated by the addition of gilded banding, which encircled the necks, shoulders, or bases, giving them a refined and luxurious appearance. The clear glass allowed the wearer to glimpse the delicate, amber or rose-hued perfumes inside, their clarity adding to the impression of purity and freshness. The gilded bands were not merely decorative but also served as a hallmark of quality and craftsmanship, evoking the opulence of the era.

The gold detailing was often applied with precision, creating an intricate contrast with the smoothness of the glass. The gilding, typically in the form of fine gold leaf or paint, added a touch of glamour and luxury to each bottle. These gilded accents would have caught the light, shimmering gently as the bottle was held or displayed, further enhancing its desirability. The gilding, combined with the clear glass, offered a timeless design that reflected both the beauty of the perfume inside and the refinement of the house of Raucour, making each bottle a miniature work of art. Such presentation would have complemented the fragrance’s character, promising a sensory experience that was just as rich and intricate as the visual allure of the bottle itself.

In this way, the packaging of Raucour’s perfumes went beyond mere function. The clear glass and gilded embellishments contributed to the overall narrative of luxury and exclusivity, appealing to those who appreciated not only the perfume’s scent but also its visual and tactile experience. These bottles would have found their place in elegant vanity tables, where their delicate beauty could be admired, inviting the wearer to indulge in the sophisticated allure that Raucour perfumes embodied.

The perfume Calypso was available in four sizes and retailed for $15, $25, $47.50 and $60 in 1947. A dram size was also available for $2.75

Grand Epoque was available in two sizes and retailed for $15 and $25 in 1947. The dram size was $2.75.

The perfumes of Raucour:

• 1946 Grande Epoque
• 1946 Lavande
• 1946 Calypso
• 1946 Messager
• 1946 Cattleya
• 1946 Futur