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Friday, July 18, 2014

Les Creations Guyla

Les Créations Guyla was established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Épinay-sur-Seine, a northern suburb of Paris. Though the company was short-lived, it left a notable mark with its exceptional perfume presentations, aligning perfectly with the artistic and cultural trends of the Art Deco period. These designs often featured the bold geometric shapes, intricate patterns, and luxurious materials characteristic of the era, encapsulating the opulence and elegance of 1920s perfumery.

The name Guyla has roots in Hungarian and is pronounced as "GHEE-lah" with a soft 'g,' similar to the English word "gear." In Hungarian, the name is a male given name that originates from ancient Magyar history, associated with a tribal leader or nobleman. The name carries connotations of strength, leadership, and tradition, though it is unclear whether the company founders intended this cultural reference or simply selected the name for its aesthetic or exotic appeal.

Unfortunately, little information is available about the company’s founders, operations, or reasons for its closure. However, its legacy lies in the exquisite craftsmanship and Art Deco aesthetics of its perfume bottles and packaging, which continue to captivate collectors and perfume historians alike.


The perfumes of Guyla:

  • 1926 Caresse Parisienne
  • 1926 Divin Narcisse
  • 1926 Charmes de Toute Heure
  • 1926 Embuscade du Coeur


In 1926, Guyla introduced four distinctive fragrances, each embodying the elegance and artistic flair of the Art Deco period. These perfumes—Caresse Parisienne, Divin Narcisse, Charmes de Toute Heure, and Embuscade du Cœur—offered poetic names that evoke sensory and emotional experiences, drawing the wearer into a world of Parisian sophistication and romantic allure.


Caresse Parisienne (Parisian Caress):

Launched in 1926, this fragrance likely celebrated the delicate and intimate charm of Paris. The name suggests a soft, tender embrace, capturing the essence of effortless French elegance. Its aroma may have been a blend of powdery florals, soft musks, and warm amber, reminiscent of a gentle touch or the lingering memory of a twilight stroll along the Seine. Delicate floral notes like rose, heliotrope, or violet may have played a prominent role, complemented by a velvety, slightly sweet base to mirror the comforting yet refined nature of its name.


Charmes de Toute Heure (Charms of Every Hour):

Also introduced in 1926, this fragrance alludes to an enduring allure that transcends time. The name suggests a composition designed to enchant at any moment of the day or night. It likely balanced light, fresh top notes with a rich, enduring base to reflect its timeless charm. Bright citrus or herbal accents may have opened the fragrance, evolving into a heart of blooming florals such as jasmine or tuberose, and finishing with grounding notes like sandalwood, patchouli, or vanilla to embody its sophisticated and versatile nature.


Embuscade du Cœur (Ambush of the Heart):

The most evocative of the three, Embuscade du Cœur, also from 1926, paints a picture of love’s unexpected and irresistible allure. The name suggests a deeply romantic and sensuous fragrance, designed to captivate and seduce. It may have opened with daring, spicy notes like clove or cinnamon to signify the sudden and overwhelming nature of love’s ambush. A heart of opulent florals such as ylang-ylang, narcissus, or rose could have provided a passionate intensity, while a rich, warm base of amber, civet, and sandalwood ensured a lasting, magnetic impression.



Divin Narcisse:

Divin Narcisse by Guyla was a richly complex floral fragrance for women, embodying the opulence and layered sophistication of early 20th-century perfumery. It was crafted to evoke the lush, heady allure of blooming narcissus, enveloping the wearer in a warm and multi-dimensional bouquet.

The fragrance opened with a delicate yet radiant array of top notes, blending the herbal sweetness of chamomile and myrtle with the golden, honeyed warmth of jonquil. Hints of orange blossom, neroli, and cassie lent a sparkling, citrusy nuance, providing a fresh yet tender introduction that mirrored the fleeting beauty of early spring blooms.

At the heart of the composition, a sumptuous medley of spices mingled with opulent floral notes. Exotic ylang-ylang added a creamy, slightly fruity floral aspect, while jasmine, rose, heliotrope, and tuberose contributed a lush and intoxicating richness. Orris root deepened the heart with its powdery, violet-like aroma, creating a velvety texture that enhanced the floral symphony.

The base notes anchored the fragrance with a warm, resinous foundation, offering a seductive balance to the floral exuberance. Earthy patchouli and vetiver combined with the creamy woodiness of sandalwood, while ambergris and styrax imparted a sensual, slightly smoky depth. Vanilla and almond introduced a sweet, gourmand touch, and the inclusion of civet added an animalic undertone that heightened the fragrance's complexity and sensuality.

Divin Narcisse was an embodiment of the Art Deco era's love for indulgence and sophistication, offering a perfume that was as intricate and layered as the elegant bottles and presentations for which Guyla was renowned.


Each fragrance reflected not only the artistic creativity of Les Créations Guyla but also the romantic and luxurious spirit of the 1920s. Though little is known about their precise compositions, their evocative names and the cultural context of their creation offer a glimpse into their likely olfactory artistry.




Bottles:


The perfumes of Les Créations Guyla were presented in exceptionally delicate and artistic flacons, epitomizing the height of Art Deco luxury and craftsmanship. Each bottle was ingeniously designed to resemble a champagne glass, symbolizing celebration and sophistication. Crafted from colorless glass, the bottles featured two extremely thin walls of blown glass, with the fragrance elegantly encased between the layers. The design was completed with a foot that ingeniously doubled as the stopper, enhancing the illusion of a miniature champagne glass.

What truly set these bottles apart was the lavish hand-painted enamel decoration adorning the exterior. Artisans from Atelier Martine, a decorating studio founded by haute couture designer Paul Poiret, meticulously applied vibrant flowers and patterns, creating unique, one-of-a-kind designs for each bottle. The enameling was thickly applied, adding a tactile dimension to the colorful floral motifs, which elevated the bottles into works of art. These exquisite decorations were complemented by gilded paper labels attached to a golden tassel, which also formed the baudruchage cording that secured the stopper. A gold-embossed label on the underside of the bottle added a final touch of elegance.

The bottles were housed in luxurious presentation boxes covered in rich red felt paper, further enhancing their desirability. However, the extreme fragility of these double-walled glass bottles, combined with their intricate hand-crafted details, makes surviving examples exceedingly rare today. Collectors value these bottles not only for their connection to the opulent Art Deco period but also for their association with Poiret’s Atelier Martine, which contributed to their distinctive and innovative design.



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