Les Parfums de Paquin

Jeanne Paquin was a prominent figure in the world of fashion during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. She was one of the first women to gain international renown in the haute couture industry. Paquin's Parisian couture house, located at 3 rue de la Paix, became synonymous with luxury and elegance.

Paquin's success led her to expand her business beyond Paris, including opening a branch in London, which helped solidify her reputation as a leading couturier on an international scale. Additionally, her venture into the realm of perfumery in 1939 added another dimension to her brand.

In 1954, Paquin merged her couture house with the equally prestigious House of Worth, a move that further enhanced both brands' prestige and influence in the fashion world.

However, despite her immense success and contributions to the fashion industry, the couture house of Jeanne Paquin eventually closed its doors in 1962, marking the end of an era in fashion history. Despite its closure, Paquin's legacy as a pioneering couturier and innovator continues to influence the world of fashion to this day.

Paquin used bottles from Baccarat (flacon design #800) for various fragrances. Some of the crystal bottles for Espoir  & Ever After were produced by Baccarat. Habit Rouge (Red Frock) was presented in a small black-glass bottle with a red stone in the stopper by Baccarat. In 1953, Espoir was presented in a small black-glass bottle with a green stone in the stopper.

It's fascinating how Jeanne Paquin utilized Baccarat bottles for her fragrances, incorporating their renowned craftsmanship into her perfume presentations. The use of Baccarat bottles, particularly the flacon design #800, added a touch of luxury and sophistication to Paquin's perfume offerings, aligning with her brand's image of elegance and refinement.

The specific details I mentioned about the crystal bottles for fragrances like Espoir and Ever After being produced by Baccarat highlight the collaboration between two prestigious entities in the worlds of fashion and luxury goods.

The description of the bottles for Habit Rouge and Espoir, with their distinctive designs and colored stones in the stoppers, adds to the allure of Paquin's perfumes. These unique presentation elements likely contributed to the appeal and desirability of her fragrances among consumers.

Overall, the partnership between Jeanne Paquin and Baccarat demonstrates how the worlds of fashion and luxury intersected, creating timeless pieces that continue to be celebrated for their beauty and craftsmanship.

The perfumes of Paquin:

• 1939 9 X 9
• 1939 Habit Rouge
• 1939 Ever After
• 1945 Espoir
• 1945 P2
• 1948 Lavande
• 1948 L'Eau de Paquin
• 1949 No. 9
• 1953 Goya
• Monologue
• Nuit d’Afrique
• Old Panama
• Sahara
• Solfrege

Femme, 1946:

"Marguerite Gauthier, the famous lady of camellias, said she had a predilection for this greenhouse flower "Because it had no smell"... no doubt she wanted to jealously keep all the attraction of it for herself. 'a rare perfume, a strange scent. Not flowery, emanating from her black hair, her lace, her furs; an exclusively feminine perfume. What was this perfume of the lady with the camellias? Alexandre Dumas fils neglected to tell us. We believe we found it very recently in a delicious designer box; but we'll leave it up to you to guess which one. Because Marguerite's perfume was, that is certain, a "dress" perfume: today one would say a designer perfume: which justifies - if it were necessary - the intrusion of the creator of elegance into the garden of sweet smells. It was Paul Poiret, innovative in many things, who first had the idea of launching new perfumes with his new collections; both very avant-garde, sometimes a little noisy...but the idea was beautiful and good. She created a tradition, a guest book; the biggest names sign up every day. It is a way of consecration, for a young fashion house, to in turn create one or more signature perfumes. Let's quickly see together which are among them. The favorites of the chic woman, that is to say the Parisian that you are. Let's start by noting that the perfume of each couturier, inspired by the same trends and the same inclinations as his models, necessarily resembles them and closely contributes to their originality... 

On a different note, very young and even a bit of a "Espoir" de Paquin will enchant blonde Parisians as they come out of the cold days. Its delicate vibration, its flowery grace evoke the spring of France. It has the caprice, the lightness, the penetrating softness, "9 x 9" and "Goya" by Paquin, also, are warmer, more intense: they are better suited to brunettes."

​What a beautiful description of Jeanne Paquin's fragrances and their connection to the essence of Parisian style and seasons! The imagery of "Espoir de Paquin" enchanting blonde Parisians as they emerge from the cold days, with its delicate vibration and flowery grace evoking the spirit of spring in France, is quite evocative.

The characterization of "Espoir" as having caprice, lightness, and penetrating softness suggests a fragrance that embodies the youthful and whimsical nature of springtime, perfectly suited to the freshness and vitality of blondes.

Contrastingly, "9 x 9" and "Goya" by Paquin, described as warmer and more intense, are portrayed as better suited to brunettes, perhaps reflecting a deeper and more sensual character that complements the richness of darker hair.

This description not only captures the sensory experience of these fragrances but also hints at the nuanced relationship between perfume and personal style, suggesting that different scents can resonate differently with individuals based on factors such as hair color and temperament.

L'Atlantique, 1952:

"Paquin's music box which plays 'The Third Man' or 'La Vie en Rose,' contains three Paquin perfumes, '9 x 9,' 'Ever After' and 'Espoir' in a charming blue box edged in gold, which becomes a cigarette box when bottles are empty. A novelty is the 'Clochette' or bell of black lacquer basketry with a one ounce bottle of perfume on a red setting; this is also a music box!"

The description of Paquin's music box is absolutely delightful, combining elements of luxury, novelty, and functionality in a charming package. The choice of melodies, "The Third Man" and "La Vie en Rose," adds to the allure, invoking a sense of nostalgia and romance.

The inclusion of three Paquin perfumes - '9 x 9,' 'Ever After,' and 'Espoir' - within the music box, presented in a charming blue box edged in gold, not only offers a sensory experience through fragrance but also adds a touch of elegance to the overall presentation. The clever transformation of the box into a cigarette box once the perfume bottles are empty demonstrates Paquin's attention to detail and practicality.

The novelty of the 'Clochette' or bell, crafted from black lacquer basketry and containing a one-ounce bottle of perfume on a red setting, is another example of Paquin's innovative approach to packaging. The addition of a music box to the 'Clochette' further enhances its appeal, turning it into not just a container for perfume but also a decorative and functional piece.

Altogether, Paquin's music box and 'Clochette' showcase her ability to merge artistry with utility, creating items that are not only beautiful to behold but also serve a purpose, whether it be storing perfume or adding a touch of whimsy to one's surroundings.

Espoir:

La Femme Chic, 1945:

"For those who do not want to wear aggressive perfume, note Recital de Millot with its sweet floral aromas; and more particularly Espoir de Paquin. This delicate creation seems to us to be the 'beginner's' dream perfume, to be recommended to young girls who, without wanting to age, quite rightly have the impression of not yet being a woman as long as they do not have perfume. In Espoir we find the familiar scents of flowers from our home, our gardens and our countryside, from all the seasons and all the provinces. The result is a fresh, fresh scent of exquisite youthfulness."

 L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Espoir by Paquin: it is a beginner's perfume adopted by the romantic and tender young girl; it evokes the innocent promises of a budding femininity and brings together the delicious scents of flowers from our homeland in a single barely sensual bouquet, naively perverse, deliciously young."

The description of Espoir de Paquin as a gentle and delicate perfume suitable for those who prefer a more subtle fragrance experience is quite captivating. It's portrayed as a dream perfume for beginners, particularly young girls who desire to embrace femininity without feeling overwhelmed by heavy scents.

The imagery of Espoir evoking the scents of flowers from home, gardens, and countryside, representing all seasons and provinces, creates a nostalgic and comforting atmosphere. This amalgamation of familiar scents results in a fragrance that exudes freshness and youthfulness.

The characterization of Espoir as a perfume for the romantic and tender young girl, evoking innocent promises of budding femininity, is beautifully poetic. It suggests a fragrance that captures the essence of youth and purity, yet with a subtle hint of sensuality that adds depth to its charm.

As for the fragrance notes:

• Top notes: These are the initial impressions of the perfume, often light and refreshing. In the case of Espoir, they might include fresh and citrusy notes that awaken the senses.

• Middle notes: Also known as heart notes, these emerge once the top notes fade away. For Espoir, they could encompass floral accords, perhaps reminiscent of the blooms found in home gardens, contributing to the fragrance's tender and romantic character.

• Base notes: These are the foundation of the perfume, providing depth and longevity. For Espoir, the base notes might include subtle, earthy tones that ground the fragrance, allowing it to linger softly on the skin.

That being said, Espoir de Paquin appears to be a fragrance that celebrates the beauty of innocence, youth, and femininity, making it an ideal choice for those who seek a delicate and evocative scent experience.

9 X 9:

Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:

"Nine by Nine, by Paquin, is neither plant nor flower, It adapts to all ages, to all genders. It is a hybrid, enveloping perfume, which escapes analysis. In a word: the soul of Paris. Like him, he seduces without anyone knowing how, and that's why we love them both."

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"9x9 by Paquin: Roses, jasmines and amber melted into a deliciously powdery scent. This perfume of sweetness, pride, tenderness and luxury is proof by 9 of success."

The description of Nine by Nine by Paquin as an enigmatic and versatile perfume that defies categorization is intriguing. It's depicted as a hybrid fragrance that transcends traditional classifications, much like the essence of Paris itself, which captivates and enchants in ways that are difficult to define.

The comparison between Nine by Nine and the soul of Paris, both possessing an irresistible allure that defies explanation, adds a layer of mystique to the perfume's identity. It suggests that, like Paris, Nine by Nine has a seductive quality that is subtle yet undeniable, captivating those who encounter it.

The fragrance notes provided offer further insight into the olfactory experience of Nine by Nine:

• Top notes: These initial impressions may include light and refreshing scents that greet the senses. However, in the case of Nine by Nine, the absence of specific plant or floral notes suggests a more abstract introduction, perhaps hinting at the complexity and intrigue to come.

• Middle notes: The heart of the fragrance is characterized by jasmine and rose, two classic floral notes known for their romantic and intoxicating qualities. These notes likely contribute to the perfume's enveloping and luxurious aura, evoking a sense of elegance and refinement.

• Base notes: The inclusion of opoponax and amber in the base notes adds depth and warmth to the fragrance, creating a rich and sensual foundation. These notes may lend a powdery and resinous quality to Nine by Nine, enhancing its overall complexity and allure.

Overall, Nine by Nine by Paquin emerges as a captivating and multifaceted perfume that embodies the essence of Parisian sophistication and allure. Its blend of floral, powdery, and resinous notes creates a fragrance that is at once timeless, elegant, and irresistibly alluring.

Ever After:

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

 "Ever After by Paquin: promise of summer enclosed in a bottle. The floral note is only a start whose limpidity barely conceals the insidiously ardent theme. Scent of the aristocrat, indifferent to the seasons, and proud of its personality."

The description of Ever After by Paquin as a promise of summer captured within a bottle conjures images of warmth, sunshine, and the vibrant beauty of the season. The portrayal of the floral note as a mere beginning, with a clarity that subtly veils a deeper, more passionately intense theme, hints at the complexity and depth of the fragrance.

Here's how the fragrance notes might be envisioned:

• Top notes: These initial impressions may include bright and uplifting scents that evoke the freshness of summer. Citrusy notes like bergamot or lemon could provide a sparkling opening, welcoming the senses with their invigorating aroma.

• Middle notes: The heart of the fragrance could feature floral accords that embody the essence of summer blooms. Perhaps notes of jasmine, gardenia, or lily of the valley infuse the perfume with a delicate yet intoxicating floral bouquet, symbolizing the vitality and beauty of the season.

• Base notes: The foundation of Ever After might be grounded in rich and sensual base notes that add depth and sophistication to the fragrance. Warm and woody notes like sandalwood or cedar, coupled with hints of musk or amber, could lend a sense of timeless elegance and refinement, embodying the aristocratic and proud personality of the scent.

Ever After by Paquin appears to be a fragrance that captures the essence of summer's allure, blending bright and floral notes with a deeper, more complex undertone that speaks to sophistication and refinement. Its timeless appeal makes it suitable for any season, reflecting the confident and aristocratic spirit of its wearer.

Ever After," a BACCARAT perfume bottle for Paquin, circa 1939, in clear crystal, with label, in elaborate wicker cage with music box base, plays "La Vie en Rose," as bottle revolves. Stenciled BACCARAT. Ht. 2 7/8. Photo courtesy of Rago Arts & Auction Center.