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Thursday, July 17, 2014

Parfums Ramey

Parfums Ramey, a prestigious perfume house, was founded in 1913 by Georges Herman. The company was originally established at 332 rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, a location renowned for its luxury boutiques and historical significance in the world of fashion and fragrance.

In the same year, Georges Herman also founded Laboratoires des Produits Radiaces. This laboratory was dedicated to the development and production of innovative cosmetic and beauty products. The simultaneous establishment of both Parfums Ramey and Laboratoires des Produits Radiaces highlights Herman's vision and commitment to advancing the beauty and fragrance industry through scientific research and high-quality products.



The perfumes of Ramey:

  • 1920 Gin
  • 1927 Nuit de Stamboul
  • 1930 Vers L’Amour
  • 1931 Nenufar
  • 1935  Minuit
  • 1935 Ramey
  • Charme Fleuri


Nuit de Stamboul:


One of Parfums Ramey's notable creations was the fragrance Nuit de Stamboul. "Stamboul" is an old term for Istanbul, reflecting the city's historic allure and exotic charm. Nuit de Stamboul, which translates to "Night of Istanbul," aimed to capture the mystical and enchanting essence of the city in a perfume. This fragrance was presented in a bottle designed by the renowned artist Julien Viard, known for his exquisite and artistic glass designs. The bottle itself was produced by C. Depinoix et Fils, a company famous for its high-quality glass manufacturing.

The design of the Nuit de Stamboul bottle is particularly notable. It features a clear glass flacon with a frosted stopper that is intricately shaped into a partially draped nude maiden. This design not only highlights the craftsmanship of Julien Viard and the quality of C. Depinoix et Fils' production but also evokes the sensual and mysterious allure that the perfume aims to encapsulate. The bottle’s artistic and luxurious design made it a coveted item among collectors and perfume enthusiasts, further establishing Parfums Ramey's reputation in the high-end fragrance market.



Nenufar:


Nenufar, a fragrance named after waterlilies, debuted in a distinctive black glass bottle that bore an intricate design. Created by Pol Rab for the 1931 Paris Colonial Exposition, this bottle was notable for its etching depicting an African figure. The design featured a small black head with a broad smiling mouth and bright eyes, resembling the character Golliwogg popularized by Vigny. Golliwogg was a fictional character from children's literature known for its controversial racial stereotypes.

The 1931 Paris Colonial Exposition, officially titled the International Colonial Exposition (Exposition coloniale internationale), was a significant event held in Paris, France. Lasting for six months, it aimed to showcase the cultural diversity and vast resources of France's colonial territories, particularly those in North and West Africa. The exposition served as a platform for France to demonstrate its colonial achievements and promote the economic benefits of its overseas possessions.

Pol Rab's design for the Nenufar bottle at the Paris Colonial Exposition reflected the prevailing attitudes and aesthetic sensibilities of the time, which sometimes included elements that are now seen as racially insensitive. The use of imagery resembling Golliwogg on the bottle underscores the complex historical context of colonial exhibitions and their representation of non-European cultures. Despite the controversy surrounding such depictions today, the Nenufar fragrance and its distinctive bottle remain notable artifacts of early 20th-century perfume design and the cultural milieu of colonial-era France.


Gin:


The Gin fragrance by Parfums Ramey encapsulates the glamour and sophistication of the cocktail era, particularly prominent during the 1920s and 1930s. Housed in a clear glass bottle intricately molded to mimic a basketweave pattern, it reflects the Art Deco aesthetics of the time. The bottle features a ribbed ground glass stopper resembling the texture of a melon, evoking the era's fascination with tactile design and luxury. Adorned with gilded enamel trim, the bottle exudes opulence and refinement, mirroring the lavish lifestyle associated with gin cocktails in glamorous settings. This fragrance pays homage to a period marked by creativity, indulgence, and the allure of speakeasies, where gin-based cocktails like the Martini, the Gimlet and Tom Collins thrived as symbols of social rebellion and sophisticated taste.

During the 1920s, the Prohibition era in the United States led to the rise of speakeasies and clandestine drinking establishments, where cocktails became popular as a way to mask the taste of bootlegged spirits like gin. Here are some classic gin-based cocktails that gained popularity during that time:

Gimlet: A simple yet refreshing cocktail made with gin and lime juice. It became popular in the 1920s and remains a classic today.

Martini: The iconic Martini, made with gin and vermouth, was refined during the 1920s. It was typically served stirred with ice and strained into a cocktail glass, sometimes garnished with an olive or a twist of lemon peel.

Tom Collins: A Tom Collins is made with gin, lemon juice, sugar, and soda water. It gained popularity in the late 19th century but continued to be enjoyed during the 1920s.

Southside: This cocktail combines gin, lime juice, simple syrup, and mint leaves, shaken and served over ice. It was a favorite among speakeasy patrons.

Corpse Reviver #2: Although it's debated whether this cocktail originated in the 1920s, it gained popularity during that time. It includes gin, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc, lemon juice, and a dash of absinthe, served straight up.

These cocktails not only masked the often harsh taste of homemade gin during Prohibition but also became symbols of sophistication and rebellion in the roaring twenties. The creativity and experimentation with gin-based drinks during this era laid the foundation for enduring classics in the world of mixology.





Minuit (Midnight) was: launched in 1931, black glass bottle w/ molded gilded floral stopper. Gilded label shows nude woman holding a perfume burner.






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