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Monday, August 25, 2014

Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil c1941

Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil, launched in 1941, is a fragrance steeped in emotional depth and reflection, embodying the essence of its name. The word Nostalgia, derived from the Greek nostos (meaning "return home") and algia (meaning "pain"), refers to a wistful longing for the past, evoking emotions of yearning and sentimentality. Choosing the name Nostalgia for a perfume in the early 1940s was not only poignant but deeply evocative, as the world was in the grip of World War II—a time when thoughts of the past and a desire for peace and stability were at the forefront of people’s minds. The name taps into the universal human experience of memory, of longing for a simpler, happier time, and of reflecting on the fleeting moments that bring comfort during uncertainty.

In scent, Nostalgia would naturally be interpreted as a fragrance that evokes both warmth and melancholy, creating a bridge between the past and the present. The opening notes of powdery aldehydes, known for their soft, clean, and slightly soapy quality, are often associated with the elegance of classic perfumes. These aldehydes lend a sense of timelessness and sophistication, evoking the image of a woman dressed in refined, vintage elegance. The bright citrus notes that accompany the aldehydes provide an immediate freshness, a reminder of brighter days, perhaps symbolizing hope amidst the dark realities of the war.

As the scent unfolds, the heart reveals a floral bouquet dominated by lilac, jasmine, and rose. These flowers, with their soft, romantic qualities, add an air of femininity and grace. Lilac, with its nostalgic connotations of spring and renewal, pairs beautifully with the timeless appeal of rose and the sultry depth of jasmine, creating an emotional pull. The floral notes in Nostalgia speak to a longing for love, beauty, and the familiar comforts of home, things that would have been acutely missed by women living through the hardships and separations of the war years.

The base notes—warm, rich, mossy, and woodsy—ground the fragrance in a comforting earthiness. Oakmoss and sandalwood, staples of the chypre fragrance family, provide a sense of depth and solidity, almost like an anchor to the past. The richness of these base notes mirrors the complexity of memory, the way in which emotions linger and deepen over time. In this way, Nostalgia captures not just the fleeting beauty of floral notes but also the enduring power of memory, with its warmth and quiet strength.



For women in 1941, a perfume named Nostalgia would have resonated deeply. The world was engulfed in war, and many women were experiencing the absence of loved ones, uncertainty about the future, and a collective longing for peace. The war brought about profound shifts in daily life—many women were entering the workforce, taking on new roles, and grappling with the emotional toll of separation and loss. In this context, a perfume called Nostalgia would evoke feelings of reminiscence for pre-war days, for moments of joy, love, and stability that now seemed distant.

Fragrances of this time period were often designed to provide comfort and escape, offering women a brief reprieve from the grim realities around them. In Nostalgia, they would have found a scent that allowed them to wrap themselves in the comforting embrace of memories while also carrying with them the strength and resilience to face the uncertain days ahead. The scent, with its classic aldehydic floral chypre structure, would have been in line with other sophisticated fragrances of the time, offering both elegance and emotional depth, making it a fitting companion during a time of both longing and hope.


Nostalgia was available in the following forms:
  • Parfum
  • Eau Concentree
  • Cologne
  • Dusting Powder

Home Journal, 1947:
"Exciting news from Germaine Monteil is the debut of a French perfume, Nostalgia. This is a lovely, lingering fragrance that should suit the exacting Monteil clientele. Handsomely packaged, one ounce, $25."


Fragrance Composition:


 So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It begins with powdery aldehydes and bright citrus notes, followed by a dominant lilac, jasmine and rose bouquet, resting on a warm and rich, mossy, woodsy base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lily of the valley, daffodil
  • Middle notes: lilac, rose, jasmine, spices, stock, iris, herbs
  • Base notes: vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, ambergris, musk, labdanum

Scent Profile:



As I experience Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil, the opening notes greet me with a soft yet radiant burst of aldehydes. These aldehydes instantly create an airy, almost soapy atmosphere, reminiscent of freshly pressed linens or delicate, vintage powder puffs. Their clean, powdery quality sets the stage for a fragrance that feels timeless, evoking images of old-world elegance and refinement. Alongside, the vibrant citrus of bergamot brightens the introduction, its zesty sharpness cutting through the aldehydes like a burst of sunlight through morning fog. 

There’s a fleeting sweetness here too, tempered by the gentle green touch of lily of the valley and the narcotic, slightly narcissus-like scent of daffodil. Together, these top notes create a delicate interplay between freshness and nostalgia, immediately pulling me into a world where memories dance with the present.

As the top notes begin to settle, Nostalgia reveals its heart—a lush floral bouquet where lilac, jasmine, and rose reign supreme. The lilac, with its purple petals and nostalgic scent, calls to mind springtime gardens, blooming with a soft, almost powdery sweetness that feels both uplifting and serene. Its aroma is pure and romantic, with a tinge of wistfulness, echoing the fragrance’s theme. 

The jasmine, richer and more sensual, weaves through the lilac like an intoxicating night breeze, adding depth and mystery to the floral heart. Jasmine’s sultry sweetness contrasts beautifully with the crispness of the lilac, and together they form a sophisticated dance of light and dark. Meanwhile, the classic elegance of rose adds an unmistakable femininity, its dewy, fresh petals infusing the fragrance with a timeless charm.

The floral bouquet is further enriched by the addition of spices, stock, iris, and herbs. The spices—subtle yet present—bring warmth to the florals, like a gentle touch of heat in the background. There’s a dry spiciness here, adding a hint of intrigue without overpowering the flowers. Stock, with its clove-like sweetness, adds another layer of complexity, blending seamlessly with the warm iris, which lends a powdery, slightly earthy undertone. The herbal accents, though light, offer a refreshing green twist that keeps the fragrance grounded and natural, reminding me of a countryside garden in full bloom.

As Nostalgia continues to evolve, its base notes gradually emerge, creating a warm and rich foundation that lingers on the skin. Oakmoss, earthy and slightly damp, gives the fragrance a chypre character, evoking the scent of moss-covered woods after a gentle rain. It’s a grounding note, enveloping the florals in a deep, forest-like atmosphere. Vetiver, with its grassy, smoky quality, adds another layer of earthiness, while patchouli, dark and resinous, brings a rich, almost mysterious depth to the blend. Sandalwood introduces a smooth, creamy warmth, balancing the sharpness of the patchouli and oakmoss with its soft, woody elegance.

Ambergris and musk wrap the fragrance in a sensual embrace, their animalic warmth giving Nostalgia a sensual, skin-like quality. They linger intimately, soft and comforting, as labdanum adds a final touch of resinous sweetness, rounding out the fragrance with a balsamic, slightly leathery finish. The base notes provide a hauntingly beautiful contrast to the airy top and floral heart, ensuring that Nostalgia stays warm, rich, and enveloping long after the first spritz.

Altogether, the interplay of these notes transports me through layers of memory and emotion—an olfactory journey that feels both personal and timeless. Nostalgia is a fragrance that captures the essence of yearning for the past, with each note offering a sensory reminder of something familiar, yet fleeting, like cherished moments from a distant time.


Bottles:


Nostalgia was housed in several different bottles based on the concentrations, parfum, Eau Concentree , eau de cologne, etc.



Parfum:

The parfum for Nostalgia by Germaine Monteil was housed in an elegant cylindrical bottle made from clear crystal, meticulously crafted by Verreries Brosse in France. The bottle's design featured distinctive horizontal banding, subtly molded into the glass, giving it a refined texture and a sense of timeless sophistication. Just below the base of the stopper, a gold foil paper label wrapped around the top of the bottle, adding a touch of luxury. However, over time, the gold finish on the label could wear off, revealing a silvery sheen underneath. This visual transformation imbued the bottle with a sense of character, as though it held decades of cherished memories. At the base of the bottle, the words "Germaine Monteil Made in France" were delicately molded, a discreet but proud marker of its French craftsmanship.

The bottle's most striking feature was its unusual, chunky glass stopper. Unlike traditional stoppers with a simple plug, this one had a hollowed underside and a central plug designed to fit snugly into the bottle's mouth. Its overcap-like appearance gave it a bold, modern touch while also serving a functional purpose. When placed into the bottle, it formed a tight seal, preserving the precious parfum inside with care.

Once filled with perfume, the final sealing process was both practical and artful. The factory worker responsible for sealing the bottle would take baudruchage cords, wrapping them around the bottle's neck multiple times before tying them securely. The cording was then passed through small notches cut into the stopper’s edges, carefully tied east to west to form a neat and protective seal. This meticulous craftsmanship not only added to the bottle’s aesthetic appeal but also ensured that the fragrance remained intact. To complete the presentation, a small metallic foil paper label was affixed to the end of the cords, a finishing touch that symbolized the care and precision behind the creation of Nostalgia’s luxurious packaging.


To open the classic Nostalgia crystal flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Germaine Monteil themselves in 1963:
Gently slide the gold cord from grooves in cap; tap the top gently on table (not marble or metal); twist off top.

You can see how the baudruchage cords are positioned in this advertisement below.



When the perfume was introduced, the the half ounce bottle retailed for $15, the one ounce bottle for $25.00, and the two ounce bottle was $45, a larger size bottle sold for $75 (it may have been a four ounce size).
  • 1/2 oz = 
  • 1 oz = 
  • 2 oz =
  • 4 oz?


Other parfum bottles were the 1/8 oz size black plastic "Perfume Flaconettes" perfect sizes to carry around in purses. Also available was the "Ambassadeur" purse bottle introduced in 1957.


Eau de Cologne:

The Eau de Cologne bottles came in two different shapes, one that resembled the horizontally ribbed parfum bottle and the other was an interesting two handled urn design (introduced in 1949), both bottles had screw caps.
  • 2 oz
  • 4 oz 
  • 8 oz



Eau de Parfum:

In 1949, the Eau de Parfum was introduced to the line. The Eau de Parfum was available in three sizes and ranged in price from $5, $8, and $12.


Eau Concentree:

The Eau  Concentree was introduced in 1954 as a long lasting eau de cologne type of fragrance concentration. It was housed in oval bottles with screw caps, in the late 1950s, the fragrance came in plastic coated bottles fitted with atomizers. Three sizes with retail prices set at $5, $8, and $12 in 1954.



Bath & Body Products:

Nostalgia was also available in perfumed soap and dusting powder.


Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1963.


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