Parfumerie Diaphane

Parfumerie Diaphane, established in 1881 by Mr. A. Reverchon, carved a niche for itself in the world of cosmetics and fragrance, starting with a breakthrough product he had developed earlier. In 1879, Reverchon introduced La Diaphane, a sheer face powder that captivated consumers and quickly gained popularity. Inspired by the success of this product, he named his company after it, marking the beginning of a legacy that would span decades. The establishment was located at 48 Avenue Parmentier in Paris, a site that would become significant in the realms of beauty and perfumery.

Parfumerie Diaphane became a prominent name in the cosmetics industry, renowned for its sheer face powder, Poudre Diaphane. The powder was notably endorsed by the illustrious actress Sarah Bernhardt, whose endorsement lent the product an air of sophistication and glamour. As the company expanded, it gained international recognition, exporting nearly two-thirds of its products throughout Europe and as far afield as Indo-China, Japan, the Caribbean, and the Pacific coast. This extensive reach highlighted the brand's commitment to quality and innovation, allowing it to establish a solid foothold in diverse markets.

The company’s location later shifted to 4 Rue Edith-Cavell in Courbevoie, Seine, France, where it continued to develop its reputation for excellence. Among its key offerings was Diaphane Pensée, a perfume that echoed the brand's dedication to crafting elegant and delicate scents. The quality of its products did not go unnoticed; the company was awarded a bronze medal at the Paris Exposition of 1889, a testament to its high standards and craftsmanship.

In 1889, Parfumerie Diaphane changed hands when it was taken over by the brothers Jules and Paul Ehrmann. Under their stewardship, the company continued to thrive, further refining its product line and expanding its offerings. Around 1891, G. Mazuyer et Cie acquired the company, relocating its operations to 32 Avenue de l’Opéra in Paris. Later, the address shifted to 38 Rue d'Enghien, marking a new chapter in the company’s evolving history.

Despite its rich legacy, any perfume or product from Parfumerie Diaphane is now considered extremely rare. The company’s once-celebrated creations, including the famed Poudre Diaphane and Diaphane Pensée, are now coveted treasures for collectors and enthusiasts alike. Each artifact tells a story of a time when elegance and refinement were paramount, echoing the innovative spirit of its founder and the legacy of quality that continues to resonate in the world of perfumery.

Revue illustrée, Volume 15, 1896:

"The Diaphane Perfumery, renowned globally for its acclaimed rice powder, famously endorsed by Sarah Bernhardt, now presents a new elite creation: Eau d'Ambre. This eau de toilette boasts exceptional longevity and a delicate aroma that embodies true elegance. It can be used freely on handkerchiefs or as a refreshing spray. The sophisticated audience has already embraced Eau d'Ambre, granting it a status of esteemed distinction."

 

The perfumes of La Diaphane:

• 1896 Eau d'Ambre
• Diaphane Pensée
• Fedora
• 1926 Adieu des Roses
• 1926 Collier d'Amour
• 1926 Parce Qu'un Soir
• 1926 Presque Rien
• 1926 Ronde d'Amour
• 1926 Saison Preferee
• 1926 Sous Ton Balcon
• 1926 Ysiane

The rich legacy of Parfumerie Diaphane includes several notable fragrances, each with a unique character and allure, launched at various points in time.

Eau d'Ambre, introduced in 1896, draws inspiration from ambergris, a rare and precious substance often described as warm and sweet, with hints of the sea. Its scent is complex, evoking the sensation of sun-warmed sands and ancient treasures, providing a captivating and luxurious experience that envelops the wearer in an aura of sophistication.

Diaphane Pensée, meaning "Diaphanous Thought," suggests an ethereal and delicate fragrance, perhaps with floral and powdery notes. The term "pensée" refers to a pansy, which may indicate soft floral aromas mingling with a gentle earthiness, creating an uplifting yet contemplative scent.

Fedora, named after the fashionable hat of the same name, might embody the spirit of elegance and mystery. This fragrance likely presents a blend of bold and refined notes, evoking the sophistication and allure associated with its namesake, suggesting the scent of leather and perhaps a touch of floral grace.

In 1926, a series of fragrances was released, each with its own distinct character:

Adieu des Roses, translating to "Farewell to Roses," likely captures the melancholic beauty of fading blooms. The fragrance may feature a soft, fading rose scent intertwined with other floral elements, creating a bittersweet yet enchanting aroma that evokes nostalgia.

Collier d'Amour, meaning "Necklace of Love," suggests a romantic and intimate fragrance. This scent might combine lush florals with a hint of sweetness, reminiscent of a cherished gift, evoking feelings of affection and warmth.

Parce Qu'un Soir, translating to "Because One Evening," hints at a fragrance inspired by the magic of twilight. This scent may evoke warm, spicy notes mingled with soft florals, capturing the essence of an enchanting evening and the anticipation of romance.

Presque Rien, meaning "Almost Nothing," suggests a minimalist fragrance, perhaps with subtle and understated notes. It may embody a fresh, clean scent, evoking the feeling of a gentle breeze or soft linen, allowing for a quiet yet refreshing presence.

Ronde d'Amour, which translates to "Circle of Love," likely represents a harmonious blend of floral and sensual notes. This fragrance might be characterized by its warmth and richness, creating a sense of intimacy and comfort that envelops the wearer.

Saison Préférée, meaning "Favorite Season," could embody the essence of a specific time of year, likely with fresh, vibrant notes that evoke the joy and beauty of spring or summer blooms. The fragrance may be light and uplifting, filled with floral and fruity elements that evoke feelings of happiness.

Sous Ton Balcon, translating to "Under Your Balcony," suggests a fragrance inspired by romantic evenings spent outdoors. This scent might feature fresh and floral notes, perhaps with hints of greenery, evoking the beauty of nature and the joy of sweet moments shared.

Ysiane, a name that evokes mystery and allure, may embody a fragrance that is rich and complex. This scent could incorporate deep floral and woody notes, capturing a sense of elegance and sophistication that leaves a lasting impression.

Each of these fragrances reflects the artistry and craftsmanship of Parfumerie Diaphane, showcasing a commitment to creating exquisite scents that resonate with the emotions and experiences of their time.

According to a 1904 recipe found in the Bulletin of Pharmacy, La Diaphane powder was a sophisticated formulation that combined both efficacy and elegance, reflecting the cosmetic ideals of its time. The base of the powder was composed of 4 ounces of zinc oxide, a naturally occurring mineral known for its soothing and protective properties. This ingredient likely served not only as a pigment to create a luminous finish but also contributed to the product’s ability to care for the skin.

Next, 24 ounces of precipitated chalk were included, ideally sourced from English suppliers. This ingredient provided a soft, matte texture and acted as a natural absorbent, helping to control oil and shine on the skin's surface. Alongside this, 4 ounces of talcum powder, preferably Venetian chalk, was added for its silky feel and ability to absorb moisture. The combination of chalk and talc ensured that La Diaphane would glide smoothly onto the skin, leaving behind a refined and polished appearance.

The formulation continued with 8 ounces of starch, which further enhanced the powder's smoothness and contributed to its lightness. Starch is known for its absorbent qualities, which would help to keep the skin fresh throughout the day. To evoke a sense of luxury and indulgence, the recipe included a blend of delicate fragrances: 2 drams of essence of rose, 2 drams of essence of jasmine, and 2 ounces of essence of orange blossoms. These floral notes not only imparted a soft, romantic aroma but also aligned with the era’s preference for light, refreshing scents that complemented the powder’s texture.

In addition, the formulation featured 2 ounces of essence of cassie, a sweet, floral note derived from the Acacia tree, which would add an exotic touch to the fragrance profile. To round out this luxurious blend, 1 dram of tincture of musk was included. This ingredient would provide depth and warmth to the powder, creating a lingering scent that evoked intimacy and allure.

Overall, the meticulous selection of ingredients in La Diaphane powder demonstrates a commitment to quality and sophistication, with each component carefully chosen to enhance not only the product's performance but also the sensory experience it offered. The result was a finely crafted face powder that appealed to the beauty ideals of the early 20th century, promising a flawless finish and an intoxicating scent that would leave a lasting impression.