Jardanel by Jean Desprez was launched in 1938, a period marked by the looming shadows of World War II. The late 1930s were a time of both tension and transition, with Europe on the brink of conflict but still clinging to the vestiges of pre-war elegance and sophistication. In France, the era was characterized by a blend of anxiety and a desire for escapism. High society sought solace in art, fashion, and fragrance, cherishing the last moments of a world that would soon be irrevocably changed. Perfumes of this time often carried a sense of nostalgia, beauty, and a yearning for simpler, more idyllic times.
Jean Desprez, a master perfumer known for his exquisite creations, chose the name "Jardanel" for this particular fragrance. The name "Jardanel" is a combination of "jardin," the French word for garden, and "anel," which could be derived from the French word "aneler," meaning to entwine or encircle. Thus, "Jardanel" can be interpreted as "garden entwined" or "encircled garden." This evokes imagery of a lush, fragrant garden, a place of natural beauty and tranquility. The name is inherently French, carrying the elegance and sophistication associated with French gardens, known for their meticulously designed landscapes and rich floral displays.
Choosing "Jardanel" as the name for a perfume is particularly appropriate because gardens are often associated with a variety of enchanting scents. A garden is a place where nature's fragrances blend harmoniously, creating an olfactory experience that is both soothing and invigorating. The name suggests a perfume that captures the essence of a garden, with notes that might include floral, green, and earthy elements, reminiscent of blooming flowers, fresh leaves, and damp soil. This aligns with the trends of the time, where there was a strong appreciation for natural and fresh fragrances.
The target audience for a perfume named "Jardanel" in the late 1930s would likely have been women who appreciated the elegance and refinement of French culture. These women would have been drawn to the romantic and sophisticated connotations of a garden, finding comfort and pleasure in a scent that offered an escape to a serene, natural haven. In a world on the cusp of turmoil, the idea of a peaceful, beautiful garden would have been particularly appealing, evoking a sense of calm and stability.
The images and feelings evoked by the word "Jardanel" are those of serenity, beauty, and nature. One might envision a sun-drenched garden filled with a riot of colorful flowers, the gentle buzz of bees, and the soft rustling of leaves in the breeze. The scent would likely transport the wearer to this idyllic setting, offering a sensory escape from the harsh realities of the time. Feelings of joy, tranquility, and a connection to nature would be central to the experience of wearing Jardanel, making it a cherished addition to a woman's perfume collection.
When Jardanel was relaunched in 1944, the world was in the midst of World War II, a starkly different environment from its initial launch. However, the name and concept remained a poignant reminder of peace and beauty amidst chaos. The fragrance would have resonated deeply with those longing for a return to normalcy and the simple pleasures of life, such as the timeless beauty of a garden.
The history of Jardanel begins in 1917 when Jean Desprez, a talented and ambitious perfumer, originally created its basic formula. Desprez’s early years were marked by experimentation and refinement. After joining Parfums Millot in 1920 as their chief perfumer, he was instrumental in the development of several notable fragrances. However, Jardanel was temporarily put on hold as Desprez dedicated his efforts to his responsibilities at Parfums Millot. It is likely that Jardanel’s composition underwent significant improvements over the years, a testament to Desprez's meticulous and stubborn nature, as he sought to perfect the fragrance before its release.
Jardanel's final formula included an intriguing blend of notes such as citrus, leather, myrrh, Peru balsam, vetiver, and oakmoss. These ingredients suggest a complex and sophisticated scent profile, with a harmonious balance of fresh, earthy, and resinous elements. This composition may have even inspired Desprez's creation of Crêpe de Chine for Parfums Millot, a fragrance that became a major success and solidified his reputation as a master perfumer.
During his tenure at Parfums Millot, Desprez began to create his own perfumes. In 1938, he finally released Jardanel under his own name, along with a few other fragrances. This move marked a significant turning point in his career and may have sparked a disagreement with the Millot family. Since Desprez was still employed as chief perfumer at Parfums Millot when he developed these perfumes, they might have felt that these creations should have been launched under their brand. The conflict likely stemmed from their displeasure at Desprez competing against them with his own line of fragrances.
The tension culminated in Desprez leaving Parfums Millot, either in 1940 or 1942, to establish his own perfume business, Parfums Jean Desprez. However, the outbreak and ongoing strains of World War II posed significant challenges to his entrepreneurial venture. The war disrupted many aspects of life and industry, including perfume production, forcing Desprez to halt his operations temporarily.
Despite these setbacks, Jardanel's relaunch in 1944 marked a resilient comeback for Desprez and his brand. The fragrance, originally conceived in a time of great ambition and later refined through years of dedication, ultimately found its place in the market during one of the most tumultuous periods in history. The persistence and passion behind Jardanel's creation reflect Jean Desprez's unwavering commitment to his craft, establishing the perfume as a symbol of elegance and resilience in the face of adversity.
Formes et couleurs - Volume 7, 1945:
"ÉTOURDISSANT - VOTRE MAIN - JARDANEL can only be found in Paris at Jean Desprez, 17, rue de la Paix, and at the best perfumer in the major cities of France."."
Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office, 1946:
"Ser. No. 494,040. Jean Desprez, Paris, France. Filed Dec. 29, 1945. JARDANEL FOR PERFUMES AND ROUGES. Claims use since November 1944. Ser. No. 494,000."
La France libre, 1946:"Jardanel by Jean Desprez, you will be assured not only of not making a mistake in taste, but of also affirming to those who will feel you pass the reputation of elegance and taste which is your most beautiful halo."
The Bermudian, 1946:
"Suggestions for Christmas PERFUME ... A wide selection from $3.79-$188.00. But especially suitable for the festive season are Votre Main, Etourdissant and Jardanel the perfumes of Jean Desprez, exquisitely presented in white with trimmings of Xmas red and green . . . from $8.00 to $78.00."
Shapes & Colors, 1947:
"JARDANEL can only be found in Paris at Jean Desprez, 17, rue de la Paix, and at the best perfumeries in the big cities of France. PERFUMER OF PEACE."
Book of Friendship, 1947:
"Jardanel by Jean Desprez, you will be assured not only of not making a mistake in taste, but of also affirming to those who will feel you pass the reputation of elegance and taste which is your most beautiful halo."
"Jean Desprez Parfumeur, 17, rue de la Paix, Paris, presents its perfumes: ETOURDISSANT, VOTRE MAIN, JARDANEL, GRANDE DAME and its POUDRE DE BEAUTÉ for all seasons. Jean Desprez certifies all his perfumes to be imported from France. They are entirely bottled, packaged and sealed in the country of origin."
La Dépêche tunisienne, 1949:"A perfume is a symbol and like all symbols, it means nothing, it expresses: it expresses what it is made of. If it is made of nothing, it expresses nothing, like man that God created from nothing and which means nothing because it has nothing to say except that the weather is beautiful and that the perfumes of Jean Desprez: Etourdissant, Votre Main and Jardanel will please you. Madam, how they please in Paris and all over the world to the most difficult women."
"A perfume is a symbol and like all symbols, it means nothing, it expresses: it expresses what it is made of. If it is made of nothing, it expresses nothing, like man that God created from nothing and which means nothing because it has nothing to say except that the weather is beautiful and that the perfumes of Jean Desprez: Etourdissant, Votre Main and Jardanel will please you. Madam, how they please in Paris and all over the world to the most difficult women."
Bottles:
The original bottle chosen for Jardanel's parfum was the "Modele Pratique," a square French crystal flacon adorned with a ground glass stopper. This design was not only practical but also showcased a touch of elegance fitting for Jean Desprez's early perfumes. Alongside Jardanel, this bottle style was also used for other notable fragrances from Desprez's collection, including Etourdissant, Grand Dame, and Votre Main. During the wartime period, when luxury materials were scarce due to cost and supply restrictions, the Modele Pratique became a pragmatic choice, reflecting Desprez's adaptability and commitment to maintaining quality despite challenges.
The base of the perfume box bore an inscription asserting Desprez's ownership and warning against imitation: "All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grand Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France." This statement not only safeguarded Desprez's intellectual property but also affirmed the authenticity and exclusivity of his perfume line.
The bottle used specifically for Jardanel featured a charming paper label depicting an intricately designed openworked marble flower basket resting on a decorative marble pedestal. This artistic motif, echoed in the shape of the pedestal, foreshadowed its repetition in the 1969 limited edition Janusette bottle, created exclusively for Bal à Versailles. Such attention to detail in label design complemented the luxurious essence of Jardanel, enhancing its allure as a collectible and covetable fragrance.
Moreover, another variation of the Modele Pratique flacon stood out with its unusual wooden label, showcasing Desprez's penchant for innovative packaging. This distinctive touch not only differentiated the perfume visually but also underscored Desprez's commitment to presenting his creations in a manner that was both practical and aesthetically pleasing, setting his perfumes apart in the competitive fragrance market of his time.
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 1968, Jean Desprez highlighted the extensive catalog of words registered by the National Office of French Perfumery, with nearly 40,000 names reserved by manufacturers for future use. Reflecting on the naming process, Desprez mentioned that he had not immediately patented the name "Bal à Versailles" because he considered it "too obvious." During this period, he shared that the newest name he had registered was Jardanel, yet he admitted that he had not yet discovered the perfect blend for its scent. Desprez envisioned Jardanel as a fragrance meant to capture the intoxicating aroma of a spring garden, drowsy under the midday sun.
The composition of Jardanel was described as having a luxurious structure composed of opulent floral essences, notably jasmine, resting on an oriental foundation of vetiver, patchouli, and sandalwood. This combination suggested a rich and sophisticated scent profile, blending floral sweetness with earthy, woody undertones. Desprez's dedication to perfecting this blend was evident, and his vision for Jardanel was clear.
Tragically, Jean Desprez perfected the chypre blend for Jardanel only a few months before his death. Unfortunately, he never got to witness the relaunch of his creation. The completion of Jardanel's formula stands as a testament to Desprez's lifelong passion and dedication to perfumery, leaving a legacy that would be appreciated and celebrated even after his passing.
1972 Reformulation & Relaunch:
The perfume Jardanel was relaunched as a limited edition in 1972, specially created for Stanley Marcus of Neiman-Marcus for a prestigious event called French Fortnight. This event, organized by the Neiman-Marcus Company in collaboration with the Cultural Services of the French Embassy, took place during the last two weeks of October. French Fortnight was a grand celebration of French culture and luxury, showcasing the finest couture clothes from renowned Parisian designers, exquisite French accessories, and distinguished French perfumes, including the newly relaunched Jardanel.
The event also featured a diverse array of French furniture and furnishings, offering attendees a glimpse into the elegance and sophistication of French interior design. Additionally, French Fortnight included an array of gourmet delights such as wines, cheeses, and tinned foods, further immersing visitors in the rich culinary traditions of France. To provide a comprehensive cultural experience, the event also presented a selection of periodicals and books, highlighting French literature and arts.
Jardanel's relaunch during French Fortnight was a testament to its enduring appeal and the timeless nature of its composition. The fragrance, with its luxurious blend of opulent floral essences like jasmine and an oriental base of vetiver, patchouli, and sandalwood, perfectly embodied the elegance and sophistication that the event sought to celebrate. The inclusion of Jardanel in this exclusive event underscored its status as a symbol of French perfumery's excellence and Desprez's legacy. The limited edition release not only honored Desprez's original vision but also introduced a new generation of perfume enthusiasts to the enchanting scent of Jardanel, set against the backdrop of an extravagant celebration of French culture and luxury.
1973 Relaunch:
In 1973, Jardanel was relaunched to the public as a silent tribute to Jean Desprez by his son, Denis Desprez. The fragrance, embodying a rich legacy, was reintroduced to honor Jean Desprez's dedication and artistry in the world of perfumery. Denis Desprez, driven by a desire to breathe new life into his father's creation, sought to engage a more dynamic and adventurous audience. "French women are too unenterprising and routine-minded," Denis remarked in 1974, emphasizing the need for feedback from more daring individuals with a sense of initiative. This motivation led him to test Jardanel in America first, a market he viewed as a litmus test for success. "When a new scent works in the US, we know we can sell it in France," he stated confidently.
Desprez described Jardanel as a "romantic, unique and sensual scent, composed of rare essences from the flower fields of Grasse and the Far East." This description highlighted the perfume's luxurious and exotic nature, combining the finest ingredients from renowned fragrance regions. The blend of opulent floral essences with an oriental foundation created a captivating and timeless scent, designed to evoke feelings of romance and sensuality.
The name Jardanel held a special significance, as Denis Desprez revealed. It was a homage to a charming old estate located in the center of France, a place his father Jean once visited and cherished. "He so loved the people, the place, the gardens, and the house that he decided to name his perfume Jardanel so that he could keep alive the pleasant memories," Denis explained. This personal connection added a layer of depth to the fragrance, making it not only a tribute to Jean Desprez's skill as a perfumer but also a sentimental reminder of a place that held great meaning for him.
The relaunch of Jardanel in 1973 and its subsequent introduction to the American market underscored the enduring appeal of Jean Desprez's vision. It demonstrated the timeless quality of the fragrance, capable of captivating new audiences while preserving the legacy of its creator. Jardanel, with its romantic and unique scent, continued to embody the elegance and sophistication that had always been at the heart of Jean Desprez's creations.
"When I introduce a new perfume, such as I am doing with Jardanel, I do not offer it with the fanfare of a lot of advertising and promotion and trust it to succeed on this. I give it advertising only after it is acceptable. Then I have a true reading on its excellence," Denis Desprez said in 1976. His approach to launching Jardanel was deliberate and measured, relying on the intrinsic quality of the fragrance rather than aggressive marketing tactics. Desprez believed in letting the perfume speak for itself, ensuring it met the highest standards before investing in promotional efforts. This strategy allowed for an authentic assessment of the perfume's reception and excellence.
Desprez also emphasized the importance of selective distribution. "I come to the store as my own agent because this way I can keep my distribution selective. My fragrances are at home only in such fine stores as this (Rich's). Because we feel that it is very exclusive and expensive ($100 an ounce), it has to have the right audience. We are only in 140 stores in the US," he explained. By personally overseeing the distribution process, Desprez ensured that Jardanel was available only in prestigious and suitable retail environments, maintaining the brand's exclusive image and appeal.
Addressing the high price point of $100 an ounce, Denis Desprez reflected on the value of luxury and indulgence, even during challenging times. "Do I have to justify it? Still, I can try. When you can make Rolls Royce, you don't make Cadillac. In my opinion, there is room for luxuries even in a depressed period. Fragrance buys a bit of a dream, and during the time you smell it, it keeps away the bad," he said. Desprez shared a personal anecdote from his time as a young, mostly broke college student in America. Despite his financial constraints, he occasionally indulged in a good French restaurant, an experience that provided psychological sustenance and a sense of well-being. This philosophy underscored his belief in the transformative power of luxury fragrances like Jardanel, offering a momentary escape and a touch of elegance in the midst of everyday challenges.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery aldehydic floral woody chypre fragrance for women with rich balsamic notes. It starts off with a fresh aldehydic top, followed by a classic, elegant floral heart, resting on a sensual, sweet balsamic base.
- Top notes: aldehydes, neroli, orange, bergamot, fruity note
- Middle notes: lily of the valley, carnation, orchid, ylang ylang, myrrh, patchouli, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, honey, narcissus
- Base notes: vanilla, benzoin, Tolu, incense, cistus, civet, tonka, patchouli, leather, oakmoss, ambergris, Tonkin musk, vetiver, Indian sandalwood, labdanum and Peru balsam
Playbill, 1977:
" Great perfumery: In the damn-the-expense class there's now Jardanel by Jean Desprez. Like his earlier success, Bal a Versailles, the new Jardanel is an absolutely sumptuous classic floral, woven together like eclat. Deep and rich, like its price."
"Jardanel— parfum from Jean Desprez. In the brochure the manufacturer calls Jardanel "retour au classique" (back to classic). The package style indicates something around 1910. Jardanel is a heavy perfume of the old school, showing the technique and concepts of the same hand which created Bal a Versailles. Jardanel moves smoothly through several phases, starting as a dry floral with mossy notes, then goes to a heavy chypre-like character, and winds up with a strong labdanum note which is extremely lasting."
Bottles:
The 0.25 oz parfum flacon does not have the paper label, but rather black serigraphy. The fragrances are housed in green boxes, some have the round paper labels, others have a hot stamped images. I believe the earliest have the paper labels on the boxes.
Soap, 1977:
"Jardanel— parfum from Jean Desprez. In the brochure the manufacturer calls Jardanel "retour au classique" (back to classic). The package style indicates something around 1910."
The parfum flacon was available in several sizes:
- 1/8 oz round smelling salts bottle (retailed for $18 in 1975, $20 in 1977, $23 in 1981)
- 1/4 oz bottle stands about 3" tall. (retailed for $35 in 1977, $37.50 in 1977, $42.50 in 1981)
- 1/2 oz bottle stands 4" tall. (originally retailed for $50, $60 in 1975, $65 in 1977)
- 1 oz bottle stands 5 1/8" tall. (originally retailed for $65 in 1972, then $80 in 1974, $100 in 1975, $115 in 1977)
- 2 oz bottle stands 6” tall
PARFUM DE TOILETTE:
The parfum de toilette is the same long necked bottle as the parfum. It made its appearance in 1974. The Parfum de Toilette bottle can be found with either with a frosted glass stopper or the plastic screw cap. Its bottles bore round paper labels with a polychrome image of an Art Nouveau styled woman, suggestive of the Edwardian period, a nod to its original creation date. The fragrances are housed in green boxes, some have the round paper labels, others have a hot stamped images. I believe the earliest have the paper labels on the boxes.
The Parfum de Toilette bottle:
- 2.5 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash bottle stands 6 1/8" tall (it originally retailed for $35, $45 in 1976, $50 in 1977)
- 5 oz Parfum de Toilette Splash bottle stands 8" tall (it originally retailed for $65)
EAU DE COLOGNE:
The Eau de Cologne Deluxe is housed inside of a luxurious crystal bottle and dates from the 1970s and into the 1980s. This bottle was also used for the Parfum de Toilette Deluxe (for Bal a Versailles). It is molded with "Jean Desprez Made in France" on the base and came in several sizes:
- 9 oz. crystal flacon stands 8.5" tall
- 4.5 oz. crystal flacon stands 7.5" tall
- 2.5 oz. crystal flacon stands 6" tall
- 1.5 oz. crystal flacon stands 5.25"
- 2 oz Eau de Cologne Splash (originally retailed for $12.50)
- 4 oz Eau de Cologne Splash (originally retailed for $20)
- 8 oz Eau de Cologne Splash (originally retailed for $30)
EAU DE TOILETTE:
The Eau de Toilette was available in spray form. Housed in white opaline bottles and fitted with an aerosol spray mechanism, and presented in green boxes.
- 5.5 oz Eau de Toilette Spray
Fate of the Fragrance:
Unfortunately, despite its brief resurgence in the 1970s, Jardanel was soon discontinued due to prohibitive production costs. The decision to discontinue the fragrance stemmed from the challenges associated with maintaining its high standards of quality and exclusivity. Denis Desprez and his team faced escalating costs associated with sourcing rare and luxurious ingredients, crafting the intricate blend that defined Jardanel's distinctive scent profile, and ensuring meticulous production standards.
The exorbitant cost of reproduction posed a significant barrier, making it unsustainable to continue offering Jardanel at a commercially viable price point. Despite its popularity and the admiration it garnered from discerning perfume enthusiasts, the financial realities of maintaining such a luxury fragrance ultimately led to its discontinuation.
Jardanel's departure from the market marked the end of an era for those who appreciated its romantic and evocative scent. Its legacy, however, endures as a testament to the craftsmanship and vision of Jean Desprez and his dedication to creating perfumes that transcended mere fragrance, offering an experience of luxury and elegance that resonated deeply with its admirers.
It's notable that Jardanel remained available for sale as late as 1983, indicating a continued demand or perhaps a limited supply that persisted beyond its official discontinuation. This extended availability suggests that despite the challenges and changes in the perfume industry, Jardanel maintained a loyal following or strategic distribution in select markets. For fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike, this availability would have represented a rare opportunity to procure or cherish a piece of perfume history, capturing the essence of Jean Desprez's craftsmanship and the timeless allure of Jardanel's distinctive scent profile.
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