Mouche by Rochas c1947

In 1947, the world was emerging from the shadows of World War II, and there was a palpable sense of renewal and glamour in the air. Marcel Rochas, a visionary in the world of fashion and fragrance, chose this moment to introduce his latest olfactory creation, "Mouche," at the height of post-war optimism and sophistication. This was a time when fashion and luxury were making a triumphant return, and Rochas aimed to capture this spirit with a perfume that exuded elegance and allure.

The name "Mouche" was a deliberate choice by Marcel Rochas, rich with symbolism and historical references. In French, "Mouche" translates to "fly" in English. Historically, "mouches" were small, black velvet beauty spots or patches worn by French courtiers in the 18th century. These patches were not only fashionable but also carried subtle meanings depending on their placement. They could signify coquetry, political allegiances, or even mourning.

Rochas, known for his meticulous attention to detail and sense of history, found inspiration in these historical nuances. Naming the perfume after his cat, Mouche, was a playful nod to both the French word's meaning and the historical use of the beauty patches. Just as these patches added a touch of sophistication and allure to the wearer's face, Rochas envisioned his perfume doing the same for its wearer's aura.

The association of roses with perfumery dates back centuries, rooted in their delicate fragrance and symbolic meanings. Roses are often considered the epitome of romance and femininity, making them a beloved and timeless ingredient in perfumes. Their essence can evoke feelings of love, beauty, and elegance, enhancing the overall allure of a fragrance like "Mouche."

Those who would have related to a perfume called "Mouche" in 1947 were likely individuals who appreciated luxury, sophistication, and a touch of historical charm. The name itself evokes images of elegance and refinement, reminiscent of a bygone era of courtly grace and glamour. For wearers, "Mouche" would have been more than just a perfume; it would have been a statement of style and sophistication, enhancing their allure and leaving a lasting impression.

The word "Mouche" evokes images of delicacy and intrigue. It conjures visions of the small, black beauty patches adorning the faces of French aristocrats, adding a touch of mystery and allure. For Marcel Rochas, naming his perfume "Mouche" was a deliberate choice to capture this essence of elegance and sophistication, offering wearers a fragrance that would enhance their own innate charm and allure.

Launched in 1947 and crafted by the renowned perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, "Mouche" by Rochas epitomized the post-war resurgence of luxury and refinement. Its composition, with a blend of musk, opopanax, ambergris, mosses, leaves, roots, and grasses, created a rich and complex fragrance that was perfect for the winter season and the glamorous evenings it would accompany. This was more than just a perfume; it was a testament to Rochas' vision of timeless elegance and sophistication, encapsulated in a name that resonated with history and allure.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral chypre fragrance for women. This winter perfume, created to be worn on furs, was composed of musk, opopanax and ambergris, mosses, leaves, roots and grasses.

• Top notes: bay leaves, fig, lemon, bergamot, peach, daffodil, apricot, lily of the valley
• Middle notes: narcissus, cloves, ylang ylang, plum, rose, jasmine, carnation, sweet pea, honey, heliotrope
• Base notes: tonka bean, vanilla, leather, opoponax, patchouli, musk, oakmoss, benzoin, vetiver, orris, sandalwood, ambergris, labdanum

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Mouche by Rochas: An indiscreet note of musk and amber, a sensual fragrance like the sound of taffeta, a smell that surrounds so much it is insolent!"

Combat, 1952:

"In the rustle of silk dresses, the "Mouche" with golden wings that Rochas invented exhales in its frenzied round a warm and tenacious perfume charged with the juice of exotic flowers which "Femme" becomes intoxicated with. Yet freeing itself from the heady influence of vetiver and patchouli barely tempered by ylang ylang, "Mousseline" leaves in its wake a diaphanous and delicate cloud."

Jet - September 11, 1952:

 "One of the most sought after lines of French perfume in the world is now available to Americans. It is Marcel Rochas' distinctive assortment of Parisian 'bouquets', each of which has wide appeal. "Femme', is the heaviest of the perfumes, and Mousseline, a blend of jasmine, lavender and mimosa, the lightest. A more sensual fragrance is "Mouche," suggestive of mosses, leaves, roots and grasses. An exquisite fragrance called "La Rosa' is described as 'all rose'. A perfume for men, called 'Moustache', has a scent of the outdoors -clean, crisp and windswept.  These perfumes come in special gift packages designed by Rochas. Each package contains three one-quarter ounce bottles. $22.50."

 

Scent Story:

In the bustling heart of Macy's department store, the air was abuzz with excitement as the renowned perfumer Marcel Rochas prepared to unveil his latest fragrance, "Mouche." It was 1947, and the anticipation was palpable. The perfumery department had been transformed into a lush, fragrant paradise, adorned with fresh narcissus, daffodils, carnations, and roses. Their vibrant colors and heady scents mingled in the air, creating an olfactory tapestry that hinted at the luxurious experience to come.

Models, draped in the newest Rochas creations, glide gracefully along a runway set up in the department. Clad in luxurious fur stoles, hats and coats, their gowns, shimmering in hues of blue and turquoise, caught the light, reflecting the aquatic tones that symbolized the fresh, invigorating essence of "Mouche." The elegance of their movements was mirrored by the fluidity of their dresses, which seemed to dance in the air as they passed. The audience, a mix of eager shoppers and invited guests, watched in awe, their senses overwhelmed by the sight and scent of the occasion.

As the models continued to showcase the exquisite designs, Marcel Rochas took the stage, his presence commanding yet approachable. He smiled warmly at the crowd and began to speak, his voice rich with the charm of a true artist. "Ladies and gentlemen," he began, "I am delighted to introduce you to our newest fragrance, Mouche. This perfume was created to be worn with your velvety evening frocks and furs. Apply a few drops when you want to feel most voluptuous."

Rochas continued, explaining the curious name of the perfume. "Mouche means 'fly' in French," he said with a twinkle in his eye. "But it is also the name of my beloved cat, and historically, it refers to the black velvet beauty spots worn by courtiers in the 18th century. This perfume, like those beauty spots, is a touch of elegance meant to enhance your allure."

The audience leaned in closer, captivated by his words. "Mouche was designed to be worn on furs during the winter," Rochas continued. "Its rich, complex scent profile is perfect for those cold nights when you want to wrap yourself in luxury." He described the costly raw materials sourced from around the world, highlighting the meticulous care and expertise that went into crafting each bottle.

As he spoke, the fragrance of "Mouche" began to waft through the air, carried on the delicate currents created by the movements of the models. The top notes of bay leaves, fig, lemon, bergamot, peach, daffodil, apricot, and lily of the valley introduced a bright, refreshing beginning that danced lightly on the air. The heart of the perfume, with its rich bouquet of narcissus, cloves, ylang-ylang, plum, rose, jasmine, carnation, sweet pea, honey, and heliotrope, created a lush, floral symphony that was both intoxicating and harmonious.

The base notes provided the final, lingering impression. The warmth of tonka bean, vanilla, leather, opoponax, patchouli, musk, oakmoss, benzoin, vetiver, orris, sandalwood, ambergris, and labdanum blended seamlessly, creating a deep, sensual foundation that clung to the fur of the models' coats, enhancing the luxurious feel of the fabric.

Around me, I saw the sparkling eyes of the guests, their expressions a mix of wonder and delight. The scent of the flowers mixed with the rich aroma of the perfume, creating an intoxicating blend that was almost palpable. I could taste the sweetness in the air, a faint hint of honey from the perfume's heart notes, mingling with the floral and citrus top notes that teased my senses.

The sounds of soft, classical music played in the background, adding an elegant auditory layer to the experience. The rustle of fabric, the soft murmur of the crowd, and the occasional exclamation of admiration blended into a symphony of sophistication and excitement. I touched the smooth, cool surface of a perfume bottle handed to me, its elegant design echoing the amphora shape that Rochas had made famous.

Marcel Rochas finished his presentation, and the audience erupted into applause. As the models made their final walk, the fragrance of "Mouche" lingered in the air, a testament to the artistry and luxury that had just been unveiled. This moment at Macy's was not just a launch; it was a celebration of elegance, sophistication, and the timeless allure of a truly exquisite perfume.

Bottles:

Mouche was presented in the elegant amphora-shaped crystal flacon, a design first introduced by Marcel Rochas for his iconic Femme perfume a few years earlier. This distinctive bottle, with its graceful curves and timeless appeal, became a signature of Rochas' perfume line, symbolizing sophistication and luxury. For Mouche, the flacon was further enhanced with a touch of unique elegance, underscoring the fragrance's refined and feminine character. The packaging for Mouche was distinctive and immediately recognizable, reflecting the fragrance's delicate and sophisticated nature.

The perfume was housed in a turquoise blue box, a bold and vibrant color choice that set it apart from the more subdued tones of other Rochas perfumes. The hue, a blend of serene blue and invigorating green, exuded a sense of tranquility and freshness, perfectly complementing the fragrance's crisp and invigorating scent profile. This box was not just plain turquoise but was adorned with a pattern of gilded or black Chantilly lace, adding an extra layer of opulence and allure. The intricate lace design hinted at the rich, textured layers of the perfume within, evoking images of fine, luxurious fabric that are both delicate and exquisite.

The packaging was adorned with printed black Chantilly lace, a design element crafted by Albert Gosset. This lace design was a nod to the iconic corset that Rochas famously created for Mae West, evoking a sense of vintage glamour and sensuality. The intricate lace pattern added a touch of elegance and femininity to the packaging, enhancing the overall luxurious feel of the perfume. The amphora bottles were produced by Pochet et du Courval, ensuring that even the more accessible versions maintained a high standard of quality and refinement.

The lace's delicate patterns, interwoven with gold or deep black threads, created a visual contrast that highlighted the box's sophistication and elegance. This combination of bold color and detailed embellishment made the packaging a statement piece, reflecting the exquisite craftsmanship and luxurious essence of the perfume it contained. The use of Chantilly lace, a symbol of elegance and sophistication, was a nod to the French heritage of the brand and the timeless beauty of its creations. The contrast between the vibrant turquoise and the delicate lace pattern created a striking and memorable presentation, making Mouche stand out among its contemporaries.

Each Rochas perfume had its own distinct packaging color, which helped to create a cohesive and recognizable brand identity while allowing each fragrance to express its unique personality. Femme, with its white packaging, conveyed purity and timeless elegance, while Moustache's gray packaging suggested a more masculine and understated sophistication. Mouche's turquoise blue packaging evoked a sense of tranquility and depth, and La Rose's pink packaging celebrated the classic, romantic beauty of the rose.

Mouche's turquoise packaging, therefore, was more than just a container; it was an integral part of the perfume's identity. It communicated the essence of the fragrance, inviting the wearer to indulge in its luxurious and complex bouquet. The combination of the amphora-shaped flacon and the turquoise lace-covered box created a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, encapsulating the essence of Rochas' vision and the timeless appeal of Mouche.

Luxury Product:

In 1948, the deluxe crystal bottles of perfume, including those of Mouche, were sold at prices ranging between $22.50 and $60.00. These prices reflected the luxury and craftsmanship associated with the fragrance, positioning it as a premium product in the market. Adjusting for inflation, the cost of $22.50 in 1948 would be equivalent to approximately $298.27 in 2024, showcasing the substantial value attached to such a high-end item during that era. Similarly, the price of $60.00 in 1948 would translate to about $795.38 in 2024, highlighting the considerable investment consumers made to acquire these exquisite crystal bottles, which not only contained a fine fragrance but also represented a symbol of elegance and refinement in the post-war period

To open the classic crystal parfum flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Marcel Rochas themselves in 1963:

"Use a razor blade to slit the plastic casing that surrounds the top. Then heat the bottle neck with a match."

Micro Mini Bottle:

In addition to its standard and cologne forms, Mouche was also available in a micro miniature perfume flacon, designed specifically for convenient storage in handbags. This diminutive bottle was crafted with meticulous attention to detail, embodying the essence of luxury in a compact size. Its rarity today underscores its coveted status among collectors and perfume enthusiasts alike. The micro miniature flacon preserved the essence of Mouche in a smaller, more portable form, making it ideal for on-the-go touch-ups or travel. Its diminutive size did not compromise on elegance; rather, it encapsulated the craftsmanship and sophistication synonymous with Marcel Rochas' perfume creations. This miniature version remains a cherished artifact, offering a glimpse into the heritage and timeless allure of Mouche as a quintessential fragrance of its era.

Purse Flacons:

ome charming purse bottles, known as "Flacon Sac," were designed to hold the "Mouche" parfum. Three different mini bottles were used to carry in the handbag: one model was simple and was known as the "purse flacon", while a more elaborate bottle, called the "evening bag model" was used for special occasions, while another could be carried for everyday use. These petite bottles were both functional and decorative, allowing women to carry a touch of luxury with them wherever they went.

Marcel Rochas ensured that Mouche was not only a luxurious fragrance but also a statement piece with its exquisite mini bottles designed for different occasions. The first model, known as the "purse flacon," was crafted for everyday use. This bottle was elegantly housed inside a turquoise blue-dyed suede bag, complete with a satin rope handle for easy carrying. Made of transparent glass with a molded disk shape and topped with a gilt metal screw-top, this petite flacon stood approximately 2.25 inches tall. A gold foil label adorned the bottle, adding a touch of sophistication to its compact design.

For special evenings, Rochas introduced the more elaborate "evening bag model." This miniature bottle was encased in turquoise blue enamel over white opaline glass, delicately adorned with rich black Chantilly lace. Brass hardware added a luxurious finish, while the bottle was kept within a black silk faille pouch resembling a coin purse. This elegant set, prized for its rarity and intricate design, catered to those seeking a touch of glamour and refinement for their formal gatherings.

The third mini bottle, a cylindrical purse flacon, also held a distinctive charm and rarity. Crafted from turquoise blue opaline glass and adorned with a black lace exterior, this design echoed the luxurious aesthetics of Mouche. Each of these mini bottles not only preserved the fragrance but also embodied Rochas' commitment to elegance and style, offering collectors and connoisseurs alike a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship and timeless allure of Mouche.

Toilet Water & Cologne:

Housed in the elegant "amphora" bottles, the toilet water for "Mouche" was available in two sizes, while the Eau de Cologne came in three different sizes, catering to various preferences and needs. In 1955, an atomizer for the Eau de Cologne was introduced, marking a significant innovation in the fragrance industry. A period newspaper advertisement proudly proclaimed that "Mouche" is the first perfume to have an atomizer," highlighting Rochas' pioneering spirit. This addition not only enhanced the convenience and ease of application but also elevated the overall experience of using "Mouche," allowing women to enjoy the fragrance in a modern and sophisticated way.

 

Mouche Cologne:

Mouche was also offered in cologne form, housed in a modified version of the signature amphora-shaped bottle used for the parfum. Similar to its counterpart, this cologne bottle retained the graceful curves and elegant silhouette that characterized Marcel Rochas' perfume designs. However, distinguishing it from the parfum version, the cologne bottle featured a practical black plastic screw cap. This modification ensured ease of use and durability, catering to those who preferred a lighter application of the fragrance or enjoyed the refreshing qualities of a cologne formulation. Despite this adaptation, the bottle maintained the timeless appeal and luxurious presentation associated with Rochas' creations, reflecting the brand's dedication to both aesthetic elegance and functional design in the realm of perfumery.

 

Parfum de Toilette:

In 1958, the introduction of Parfum de Toilette marked another evolution in the "Mouche" fragrance line. Parfum de Toilette is a term that refers to a type of fragrance concentration that typically lies between Eau de Parfum (EDP) and Eau de Toilette (EDT) in terms of the concentration of aromatic compounds. It offers a balance, providing a longer-lasting scent than Eau de Toilette but is lighter than Eau de Parfum. The Parfum de Toilette was used throughout the 1970s before being replaced by the Eau de Parfum.

In the context of "Mouche" by Rochas, the introduction of Parfum de Toilette in 1958 represented a versatile and elegant addition to the fragrance line. It catered to those who desired a fragrance with a substantial presence yet preferred a lighter touch compared to traditional Parfum. This launch included the innovative metered spray bottle version of the Parfum de Toilette, as well as a "Pursatomizer," which featured a metered spray in a sleek, black etched silvery shaft. 

 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume "Mouche" by Rochas, beloved for its sophisticated blend and historical charm, met an unfortunate end in 1962 when it was discontinued. Its departure marked the conclusion of an era characterized by elegance and refinement. Despite its absence from the market for several decades, rumors circulated of a potential revival in 1987 through a reformulated version. However, concrete evidence or images verifying this reincarnation remain elusive, leaving enthusiasts to ponder the possibility of a modern reinterpretation of this classic fragrance that once epitomized timeless allure and sophistication.