Parfums Premet

The couture house established by Madame Premet in 1903 began its journey in the world of high fashion with a distinctive vision. Madame Premet's designs were marked by an innovative spirit that would soon influence Parisian fashion. The house made a significant move in 1911 to 8 Place Vendôme, a prestigious address in Paris that underscored its growing reputation and status in the fashion world. The iconic location provided a fitting backdrop for the brand's continued success and prestige.

In 1924, Madame Premet further expanded her influence by introducing a line of fragrances. This extension into perfumery complemented her fashion designs and showcased her ability to create a complete sensory experience. Her fragrances were an extension of her avant-garde approach to style, capturing the same spirit that defined her couture creations.

Madame Premet was particularly renowned for her distinctive "La Garconne" cut hairstyle, a bold departure from the traditional feminine styles of the time. This short, boyish haircut was emblematic of her modern and androgynous approach to fashion. Her dress designs also reflected this ethos, featuring short, simple, and boyish silhouettes that challenged conventional notions of women's fashion. Her contributions to fashion, both in terms of design and fragrance, made a lasting impact on the industry, embodying a unique blend of elegance and rebellion.

The perfumes of Premet:

• 1915 12-34 de Premet
• 1917 Clo-Clo (Presented in a flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat design #360)
• 1920 La Colonne Vendome
• 1924 Brise Impériale
• 1925 L'Étrange Inconnu (This is the re-branded fragrance 'Clo-Clo')
• 1925 Le Secret de Premet (an aldehydic woody, tobacco floral)
• 1930 Pour un Oui (a fresh floral, dominant jasmine note)
• c1930 Pourpre
• c1930 Silhouette
• c1930 Gardenia
• Tanagra

The perfumes of Premet, launched between 1915 and the 1930s, offer an evocative glimpse into the olfactory artistry of the early 20th century. Each fragrance reflects a unique narrative, drawing inspiration from cultural, historical, and emotional motifs, and was crafted to enchant the senses of its era.

1915: 12-34 de Premet

The cryptic name "12-34" hints at something intimate or numerological—perhaps a special date or a personal code. The scent likely followed the trends of the time, combining rich floral bouquets such as rose, violet, or jasmine with powdery or musky notes. Its air of mystery may have appealed to women who enjoyed elegant and slightly enigmatic fragrances.

1917: Clo-Clo

"Clo-clo" is a nickname for the name Chloe, which has ancient Greek origins. The name Chloe translates to "young green shoot," "blooming," or "fertility" in Greek. Housed in a stunning Baccarat crystal flacon (design #360), Clo-Clo embodied the opulence of wartime luxury. The name, diminutive and playful, evokes a lively, coquettish personality. The fragrance was likely a rich floral blend, perhaps enhanced by sparkling aldehydes or warm base notes like amber or sandalwood, adding sophistication to its youthful charm.

1920: La Colonne Vendôme (The Vendôme Column)

Named after the iconic Parisian monument, this fragrance likely sought to embody the grandeur and elegance of the era. It may have featured a stately blend of noble ingredients like iris, rose, or oakmoss, with a refined woody or resinous base to echo the column's strength and timeless beauty.

1924: Brise Impériale (Imperial Breeze)

This poetic name conjures an image of fresh air tinged with regal splendor. The scent likely combined citrusy top notes like bergamot or lemon with delicate florals such as lily of the valley or jasmine, underpinned by a soft, powdery base. The result would be a refreshing yet refined fragrance, suited for daytime elegance.

1925: L'Étrange Inconnu (The Strange Unknown)

This fragrance rebranded Clo-Clo under a more enigmatic title. L'Étrange Inconnu evokes mystery and allure, suggesting a complex floral composition with green, aldehydic, or spicy facets. The shift in name may have been a response to changing tastes, offering a sense of intrigue and modernity to its wearer.

1925: Le Secret de Premet (Premet's Secret)

An aldehydic woody floral with tobacco nuances, Le Secret de Premet was a bold and sophisticated creation. The aldehydes would have added a sparkling, soapy quality, while the tobacco and woods lent warmth and depth. This complex combination likely created an air of mystery and timeless elegance, resonating with women who valued individuality.

1930: Pour un Oui (For a Yes)

This fresh floral fragrance centered around a dominant jasmine note, exuding a bright and romantic aura. The scent likely included green or citrusy accents to enhance the jasmine's freshness, while a soft, musky base rounded out its appeal. It would have been a hopeful and joyous perfume, perfect for romantic occasions.

c. 1930: Pourpre (Purple)

The name suggests a regal and opulent fragrance, perhaps featuring deep, velvety florals like violet, rose, or lilac, accented with rich, ambery or musky undertones. Pourpre would have exuded a sense of luxury and sophistication, reflecting the color's association with royalty.

c. 1930: Silhouette

The minimalistic name evokes elegance and mystery, suggesting a streamlined composition. This fragrance may have featured a refined floral bouquet with soft woody or powdery accords, embodying the grace and poise of a well-dressed woman’s silhouette.

c. 1930: Gardenia

As the name suggests, this fragrance likely celebrated the lush, creamy aroma of gardenia. Its heady, slightly green floral profile would have been softened with subtle citrus or musk notes, creating a classic and timeless floral scent.

Tanagra

Named after the ancient Greek sculptures of delicate, draped women, Tanagra likely embodied femininity and refinement. Its composition may have featured soft, powdery florals like iris or violet, blended with subtle hints of musk or amber to evoke the grace and charm of its namesake.

Premet’s perfumes, from the playful Clo-Clo to the enigmatic L'Étrange Inconnu, captured the evolving tastes and aspirations of their time. Their artistic names, luxurious presentations, and sophisticated compositions reflect a period when perfumery was as much about storytelling as it was about scent, leaving behind a legacy of elegance and creativity.

Chattanooga Daily Times, 1926:

"Then there is the important question of perfume. It is in this detail, perhaps more than in any other, that a woman's taste or absence of taste, may be remarked. Every woman must choose her own perfume because a perfume must express the very essence of personality, but it is important that she should have scope for selection in a wide variety of subtle scents. The Premet perfumes run the whole gamut of feminine personality, but there is about all of them a whiff of mystery which is the true secret of feminine allure. As for me, I choose 'L'Etrange Inconnu' which is my perfume though I am only too happy to share it with my sister souls. And because every possession of a woman should be lovely and should add to the charm of her personality or surroundings, a most delightful setting has been provided for all the Premet perfumes, as witness the chic red plaid case of L'Etrange Inconnu."

Femina, 1931:

"Premet has just released two perfumes: "Le secret de Premet"; "Pour un oui". " 

"Le Secret de Premet" is a modern and particularly tenacious fragrance. The use of tobacco, in harmonious composition with a large number of other products, gives it its characteristic and its very new note. 

"Pour un oui" is a blend of flowers including jasmine with a very fresh note. 

The presenting of these two perfumes is identical, except for the color of the box, one of which is covered with blue speckled paper and the other with green speckled paper. The bottle, in a new rounded shape, is surmounted by a chrome metal cap. The metal label, in the shape of a triangle, is placed in the middle of the main face of the bottle. To meet the taste of the day, the volume of the case has been reduced to a minimum."

c1927 ad

images: worthpoint, drouot