Nocturne by Barbara Gould c1952

Barbara Gould’s fragrance Nocturne, launched in 1952, evokes an air of sophistication and allure, bringing with it a unique and evocative name choice. The term “Nocturne,” derived from the French word for “night” (from the Latin nocturnus), is often associated with evening and night. In music, a nocturne refers to a piece designed to evoke the tranquility or mystery of the night, with a mood that can range from contemplative to deeply romantic. By naming the perfume Nocturne, Barbara Gould likely intended to conjure images of evening elegance and allure, suggesting a scent that would envelop the wearer in a soft, velvety aura as dusk gives way to night.

As an oriental fragrance, Nocturne is classified by its rich, sweet notes that are characteristic of the genre, often utilizing ingredients like spices, resins, and deep florals. Such fragrances are typically warm, opulent, and inviting. The oriental category, which often suggests a sense of exoticism and mystery, was especially popular among women of the 1950s who were drawn to the allure of luxurious and intense scents. The name Nocturne would have evoked emotions of warmth, intimacy, and perhaps a hint of the exotic, reflecting the allure of nightfall.

For women of the 1950s, a fragrance called Nocturne would have felt particularly enchanting and sophisticated. Post-World War II, the 1950s marked a return to glamour and femininity, with the fashion and beauty industries celebrating opulence and refined elegance. During this era, many iconic fragrances that embraced floriental and oriental profiles were becoming beloved mainstays. The market saw perfumes like Dior’s Miss Dior and Caron’s Fleurs de Rocaille, both of which carried a bold and complex profile in line with the luxurious trends of the time. While Nocturne shared these qualities of richness and sensuality, its deep oriental notes would have set it apart, aligning with but also enhancing the growing trend of mysterious, evening-ready fragrances.

In this context, Nocturne stood as both a reflection of its time and a distinct choice within it. It captured the era’s penchant for refined elegance while also embracing a deeper, more enigmatic sensibility that promised to accompany women through the evening hours, wrapping them in a sense of intrigue and warmth. This allure, coupled with its unique name, would have resonated with women looking to embody a sophisticated, evening-ready allure that was both familiar and enchanting.

When Nocturne by Barbara Gould made its debut at the esteemed B. Altman department store, the launch event was both enchanting and meticulously staged to reflect the perfume’s namesake. To evoke the evocative and delicate atmosphere of a nocturne, a female harpist played Chopin’s Nocturne, her performance creating a melodic connection between the fragrance and the music style that shares its name. The chosen piece, known for its gentle yet haunting quality, perfectly complemented the sensual and mysterious allure of the oriental fragrance.

Harpist Evans was elegantly attired to enhance the visual experience and align with the aesthetic of Nocturne. She wore a striking gold dome hat by Sally Victor, a noted milliner of the time, known for her sophisticated and modern designs. This choice in headwear echoed the luxurious gold accents of the Nocturne perfume bottle, drawing a seamless visual parallel. To complete her look, Evans donned a chic black sheath dress, a timeless garment that exuded classic elegance and embodied the refined sensuality of the fragrance itself. Her attire, blending simplicity with a touch of glamour, mirrored the rich, dark, and opulent scent profile of Nocturne, creating a living tableau that captured the essence of the perfume’s evening allure.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It is described as rich, sweet, oriental

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange and citronella
• Middle notes: rose, carnation, cloves, cinnamon, jasmine, orange blossom
• Base notes: tonka bean, cedar, patchouli, opoponax, vanilla, oakmoss, sandalwood, benzoin, ambergris

The Mason City Globe-Gazette, 1952:

"NOCTURNE By Barbara Gould The new fragrance that puts a song in your heart. It's such a lilting scent, delightfully gay, yet wistfully tender. It's Bach, Debussy, and Basin Street, gracious, capricious, and utterly delicious! Wear Nocturne now . . . you'll positively adore it. "

Scent Profile:

The Nocturnes fragrance opens with a lively, almost fizzy effervescence from the aldehydes, which brings a bright, sparkling quality. This quickly gives way to the vivid citrus rush of bergamot, orange, and citronella, which are at once tangy and sweet, mingling in a refreshing and almost astringent way. The bergamot has a distinct, slightly bitter edge, while the orange note is softer, juicier, and more rounded. Citronella, often associated with lemony sharpness, adds an unexpected verdant twist, hinting at a fresh garden on a crisp morning. Together, these top notes form a radiant introduction that’s bright and inviting.

As the scent settles into the middle notes, the fragrance warms and deepens. A bouquet of rose and carnation takes center stage, lush and almost velvety in texture. The rose is plush and full-bodied, exuding a classic, feminine elegance, while the carnation brings a hint of spicy sweetness. There’s a whisper of cloves and cinnamon, weaving warmth and a slight peppery edge into the floral heart. The cloves are both pungent and sweet, their scent like the bite of a fresh spice market, while the cinnamon lends a comforting, almost nostalgic quality. The orange blossom emerges, echoing the citrus top notes, but with a delicate floral softness that complements the spicier florals. Jasmine adds an element of opulence, its scent lush and deeply romantic, while orange blossom tempers it with a whisper of honeyed brightness. Together, these florals create a rich, multilayered heart that is both luxurious and endlessly alluring.

In the base, a creamy, almost edible sweetness takes over as the fragrance fully unfolds. Tonka bean and vanilla contribute a cozy, gourmand warmth that is smooth and comforting, like a soft cashmere blanket. Benzoin adds a balsamic touch, its scent reminiscent of warm resin and caramel, giving the fragrance depth and complexity. This sweetness is balanced by the earthy richness of patchouli and the smoky, resinous quality of opoponax, which brings a powdery cola-like note that is both mysterious and slightly intoxicating. Cedar and sandalwood add a grounding element, their woody aromas blending into the balsamic sweetness with a subtle dryness. The oakmoss lends a green, slightly mossy undertone, its scent softening the fragrance and giving it an air of vintage elegance. Ambergris, though subtle, enhances the fragrance with a whisper of warmth and a salty, oceanic quality that feels almost otherworldly.

On paper, the spiciness and sweetness are more subdued, allowing the woodsy notes to dominate. The cedar, in particular, stands out with its sharp, dry quality, evoking the scent of freshly cut wood. The sandalwood is less creamy, more astringent, which highlights the fragrance's oriental character and gives it an exotic, almost meditative quality. As a whole, Nocturnes dances between brightness and warmth, sweetness and spice, its layers unfolding like the movements of a nocturnal symphony.

Product Line:

The Nocturne fragrance line offered a comprehensive array of products, each designed to immerse the wearer in its oriental allure. At the heart of the collection was the parfum, capturing the fragrance’s full-bodied richness and complexity. For a lighter, more refreshing experience, there was also an eau de cologne, offering a subtler but still captivating interpretation of Nocturne's signature scent.

The line expanded beyond traditional perfumes with a cologne stick, adding a portable and convenient option for reapplying the fragrance throughout the day. This format made it easy to slip into a handbag or purse, allowing for discreet and effortless use on the go. For an indulgent bathing ritual, the bubble bath oil infused the water with Nocturne's rich, sweet aroma, creating a luxurious, relaxing experience. Additionally, the bath powder added a silky, finishing touch, subtly scenting the skin and leaving a soft, delicate layer of fragrance.

One of the collection's standout pieces was the cylindrical purse bottle, a sophisticated and stylish accessory. This portable flacon was crowned with a circlet of faux pearls, adding a touch of elegance that complemented the bottle's design. The pearls evoked the timeless glamour associated with the Nocturne line, making it both a functional item and a beautiful object, perfect for display or use as a cherished keepsake. Each element of the Nocturne collection was crafted to provide a sensorial experience, allowing women to envelop themselves in the fragrance through multiple formats, each as luxurious as the last.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

Click HERE to find Nocturne by Barbara Gould