Parfums Jacques Griffe

Jacques Griffe, born in Carcassonne, France, in 1910, was a remarkable figure in the world of fashion, known for his mastery of garment construction and his innovative use of fabric. His early career was shaped by the influence of his mother, a talented milliner, and his initial training as a tailor. However, it was his time spent with the legendary couturier Madeleine Vionnet that profoundly impacted his approach to design. Under Vionnet’s tutelage, Griffe honed his skills in handling the bias cut, a technique that would become a signature element in his work.

After refining his craft with Vionnet, Griffe went on to establish his own fashion house in the 1940s. His designs were characterized by their bold use of color and luxurious fabrics, reflecting his love for strong visual statements. Griffe was not only a master of construction but also a visionary who brought a sense of modernity and sophistication to his creations. His work resonated with the elegance of his mentor, Vionnet, while also incorporating his distinct flair for innovation.

Griffe’s career was also shaped by another significant influence—Captain Molyneux, a revered designer of the time, whom Griffe succeeded in the fashion world. This trio of influences—his mother’s artistry, Vionnet’s precision, and Molyneux’s legacy—combined to create a designer who was both technically adept and creatively inspired. Griffe’s boutique and ready-to-wear range became synonymous with quality and style, cementing his place as a master of French fashion in the mid-20th century.

The fragrances of Jacques Griffe:

• 1949 Griffonage
• 1953 Mistigri (spicy, warm perfume)
• 1957 Grilou (oriental)
• 1960 Enthousiasme 1 (spicy/dry floral chypre)
• Enthousiasme 2
• The French Line

Fodor's France, 1958

"Jacques Griffe. "Griffonage," "Mistigri," and "Grilou" are three notable offerings of this house; warm, tenacious, and youthful,"

Fodor's France, 1970:

 Jacques Griffe, "Griffonnage" (warm); "Mistigri" (tenacious). 

Griffonage:

Launched in 1949, Griffonage by Jacques Griffe draws inspiration from the French word for "scribbling" or "scrawl," suggesting a fragrance that embodies a playful and spontaneous spirit. This scent likely captures a sense of creativity and freedom, much like an artist's impulsive sketch that, despite its apparent randomness, forms a surprisingly cohesive and meaningful whole. Griffonage might be envisioned as a lively and modern fragrance, featuring a blend of green, aromatic notes, with subtle hints of spice or wood, resulting in a dynamic composition that challenges and defies conventional expectations.

Yet, despite its seemingly casual inspiration, Griffonage is far from a mere whimsical gesture. It is described as deep and resonant, without being overwhelming. The warm fragrance opens with the subtle yet profound presence of Bulgarian roses and citrus, offering a fresh yet rich introduction. As the scent evolves, there is a transition marked by oakmoss and ambergris, which gently prepare the senses for the deeper, more intense accords of vetiver, sandalwood, and patchouli. These earthy, woody notes are harmoniously intertwined with the rich, floral tonalities of jasmine and tuberose, adding a layer of refined elegance. Griffonage, then, is not just a fleeting scrawl—it is a carefully composed page, one that resonates and endures, much like a melody that lingers in the memory long after the music has ended.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Griffonage by Jacques Griffe: Deep music without being heavy, with subtle accompaniment of Bulgarian Roses and Citrus. A transition of oak moss and ambergris introduces the heavy accords of vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli, linked together by the rich tonalities of Jasmine and Tuberose: it is not a scribble...but a page that will remain."

Mistigri:

Mistigri, introduced in 1953, translates to "kitty" or "tomcat" in French, a playful and mischievous name that suggests a fragrance with a warm, spicy character. This tenacious perfume likely opens with bold, spicy notes—perhaps clove or cinnamon—mingling with rich, warm undertones of amber or sandalwood. Mistigri would have been a cozy, inviting scent, ideal for someone with a confident, enigmatic personality. The warmth of the spices, combined with the sensual base notes, would create a lingering, memorable presence.

Harper's Bazaar, 1955;

"Jacques Griffe's "Mistigri," gay and mischievous, named for a fabled French cat."

The New Yorker, 1955:

"Jacques Griffe's spicy Mistigri is now around in an eau de toilette; $5.50 for a four-and-a-quarter-ounce bottle, at Bonwit Teller and Lord & Taylor."

Cue, 1957:

"And another couturier, Jacques Griffe, is competing in the fragrance sweepstakes with Mistigri (which means "cat"!)"

 

Grilou:

By 1957, Griffe released Grilou, an oriental fragrance that likely embodied the exotic and mysterious allure typical of this genre. The name "Grilou" could be a whimsical, invented term, suggesting a scent that is both playful and sophisticated. Grilou might have featured deep, resinous notes of incense, paired with sweet spices like cardamom or vanilla, and enriched with opulent florals such as jasmine or ylang-ylang. This perfume would evoke a sense of mystery and sensuality, enveloping the wearer in a warm, seductive aura.

The New Yorker, 1957:

"It's a fine perfume for grown women, and so is Jacques Griffe's promising new entry, Grilou (Bonwit Teller), which starts at $5.50, for a quarter ounce, and goes to $49.50, for two ounces."

Enthousiasme 1 & Enthousiasme 2:

In 1960, Jacques Griffe launched two versions of Enthousiasme, with each iteration offering a distinct olfactory experience.

Enthousiasme 1 was likely a spicy, dry floral chypre, a fragrance that combined the earthy, woody notes typical of chypres with the lively energy of spices and florals. This scent might have opened with vibrant, spicy notes—perhaps pepper or clove—leading into a heart of dry, aromatic florals like rose or carnation. The chypre base, featuring oakmoss and patchouli, would anchor the composition with a sense of depth and sophistication.

Enthousiasme 2, while sharing a similar name, might have offered a different scent profile—perhaps a more floral or woody interpretation of the Enthousiasme concept. This version could have emphasized the brighter, more effervescent aspects of the fragrance, with lighter, fresher top notes and a softer, more refined base, catering to a different facet of the wearer's personality.

Each of these perfumes reflects Jacques Griffe's ability to translate his design ethos into the realm of scent, creating fragrances that were as bold, innovative, and elegant as the fashions he crafted.