Calandre by Paco Rabanne c1968

Calandre by Paco Rabanne was launched in 1969, a period marked by significant cultural and social changes. The late 1960s and early 1970s were times of rebellion, experimentation, and breaking away from tradition. In the world of perfumery, this era saw the rise of more daring and unconventional fragrances, as perfumers began to explore new olfactory territories and challenge established norms.

During this time, the market was populated by fragrances that often featured bold, complex compositions. Popular scents included Chanel No. 5, known for its heavy use of aldehydes and floral notes, and Yves Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche, which also embraced aldehydic floral elements. These fragrances were characterized by their sophistication, elegance, and a touch of avant-garde.

In this context, Calandre stood out for its unique blend of a soft, crisp aldehydic floral chypre composition. While it shared some characteristics with its contemporaries, such as the use of aldehydes and floral notes, Calandre distinguished itself with a metallic and modern twist, reflecting Paco Rabanne's innovative approach to both fashion and fragrance. The inclusion of Evernyl, a synthetic oakmoss, added a fresh, green, and slightly metallic edge that set it apart from the more traditional floral chypres of the time.

Paco Rabanne chose the name "Calandre" for its evocative and multifaceted connotations. In French, "calandre" refers to a car’s radiator grille, and the name was inspired by the grille of a Rolls Royce. This choice was deeply connected to Rabanne's fascination with modernity, technology, and the sleek, industrial aesthetic that characterized his fashion designs during this period.

The word "Calandre" evokes images of luxury automobiles, symbolizing elegance, power, and precision. It conjures the gleaming chrome and polished surfaces of high-end cars, reflecting a sense of sophistication and forward-thinking design. In the context of the fragrance, "Calandre" suggests a blend of luxury and modernity, aligning perfectly with the metallic theme that Paco Rabanne often employed in his couture creations.

The name "Calandre" carries with it an aura of sleekness, sophistication, and cutting-edge innovation. It suggests a fragrance that is not only elegant but also modern and slightly industrial, much like Rabanne's iconic metal dresses and accessories. The word itself might evoke emotions of confidence, empowerment, and a touch of rebellious spirit, resonating with the liberated and progressive ethos of the late 1960s.

For those familiar with Paco Rabanne's fashion, "Calandre" might also bring to mind the shimmering, avant-garde designs that broke away from traditional materials and techniques. The metallic theme, embodied in both the name and the scent, represents a bridge between the natural and the synthetic, the classic and the contemporary.

Calandre was created by the renowned perfumer Michel Hy of Roure. His expertise and innovative approach were instrumental in bringing Rabanne's vision to life. The fragrance's unique combination of aldehydic florals, green notes, and a soft chypre base, all tinted with a metallic edge, showcased Hy's ability to blend traditional perfumery elements with modern, avant-garde touches.

Calandre by Paco Rabanne was a groundbreaking fragrance for its time. Launched in a period of significant cultural shifts, it embodied the spirit of innovation and rebellion. Its name, inspired by the grille of a Rolls Royce, reflected Rabanne's fascination with modernity and technology. The fragrance itself, with its unique aldehydic floral chypre composition and metallic undertones, set it apart from other perfumes on the market, making it a true icon of its era.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a soft, crisp aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with a cool, sparkling green, flowery top, followed by a radiant leafy, sophisticated floral heart, resting on a soft woody, mossy base. "Fresh, dry blend of jasmine, rose, hesperides, tinted with metal. An artful mix of green herbals and florals with warm woodsy tones."

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, gardenia, green leaves, honeysuckle, and lemon
• Middle notes: magnolia, lily of the valley, orris, ylang-ylang, jasmine, geranium, white rose, pelargonium and hyacinth
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, Haitian vetiver, oakmoss, patchouli, musk, cedar, amber, pine tops, cistus tops, sage and resin

Scent Profile:

As you breathe in the first impression of Calandre, the bright and zesty scent of bergamot greets you. This citrus note is fresh and slightly bitter, evoking the sensation of a sunlit orchard. Its lively and invigorating aroma sets a vibrant tone for the fragrance. Immediately following the bergamot, aldehydes add a sparkling, effervescent quality. Their crisp, metallic edge introduces a soapy freshness, reminiscent of clean linens and cold, clear mornings. This element brings an airy, modern twist to the fragrance. The gardenia note offers a creamy, white floral aroma that is rich and opulent. Its heady and lush scent brings a touch of sophistication, adding depth to the initial burst of freshness. 

The green leaves accord introduces a crisp, dewy freshness that is reminiscent of a spring garden after rainfall. This note adds a verdant, natural quality, balancing the floral richness with a touch of earthiness. Honeysuckle contributes a sweet, nectar-like aroma that is light and delicate. Its subtle sweetness blends harmoniously with the other floral notes, adding a gentle, inviting touch. The lemon note adds a bright, tangy citrus edge, further enhancing the freshness of the top notes. Its sharp and invigorating scent provides a lively contrast to the softer florals, making the opening of Calandre both vibrant and refreshing.

As the fragrance transitions to the heart, the creamy and slightly citrusy scent of magnolia emerges. Its elegant and velvety floral character adds sophistication and depth to the composition. Lily of the valley introduces a delicate, green floral note that is fresh and light. Its sweet and innocent aroma brings a sense of purity and grace to the heart of the fragrance. Orris root provides a powdery, violet-like scent that is both luxurious and complex. Its soft, earthy undertones add a refined, vintage quality to the floral bouquet. Ylang-ylang adds an exotic, slightly fruity floral note that is rich and intoxicating. Its creamy and sweet scent enhances the overall opulence of the heart notes. 

Jasmine introduces a rich, sweet, and heady floral aroma that is both sensual and alluring. Its opulent and intoxicating scent deepens the floral heart, adding an element of exotic luxury. Geranium offers a fresh, green, and slightly rosy scent with a hint of spice. Its bright and uplifting character adds a lively contrast to the other floral notes, enhancing the overall complexity. The white rose note brings a delicate, pure floral aroma that is both romantic and timeless. Its soft and slightly sweet scent adds a touch of classic elegance to the heart of the fragrance. 

Pelargonium, similar to geranium, adds a green, leafy note with a hint of minty freshness. Its bright and crisp scent complements the other florals, adding an invigorating element.  Hyacinth contributes a fresh, green, and slightly aquatic floral note that is both delicate and vibrant. Its cool and crisp aroma enhances the overall freshness of the heart notes.

As the fragrance settles into its base, the warm, creamy, and woody aroma of Mysore sandalwood emerges. Its smooth and luxurious scent provides a rich and comforting foundation. Haitian vetiver adds a dry, earthy, and slightly smoky note that is both sophisticated and grounding. Its complex and woody character enhances the depth of the base. Oakmoss introduces a deep, earthy, and slightly mossy note that is both rich and natural. Its presence adds a sense of timeless sophistication and classic chypre elegance. 

Patchouli offers a warm, earthy, and slightly spicy note that is both rich and exotic. Its bold and complex aroma adds depth and intrigue to the base. The musk note brings a soft, powdery, and slightly animalic scent that is both sensual and clean. Its smooth and lingering aroma enhances the overall warmth and longevity of the fragrance. Cedarwood adds a dry, woody note with a hint of resinous sweetness. Its fresh and clean scent provides a grounding, natural quality to the base. Amber introduces a warm, sweet, and slightly resinous note that is both rich and inviting. Its golden, honey-like aroma adds depth and warmth to the base. 

The pine tops accord adds a fresh, green, and slightly resinous note that is both invigorating and natural. Its crisp and aromatic scent enhances the overall freshness of the base. Cistus tops contribute a warm, slightly sweet, and resinous note that is both rich and complex. Its presence adds depth and a touch of exotic luxury to the base. Sage introduces a fresh, herbal, and slightly woody note that is both aromatic and invigorating. Its clean and earthy scent enhances the overall natural quality of the base. The resin note provides a warm, balsamic, and slightly sweet aroma that is both rich and comforting. Its presence adds depth and a touch of exotic warmth to the fragrance.

A Mix of Natural & Synthetics:

Calandre made use of various synthetic and natural aroma compounds such as:

• Rose oxide - As you inhale the scent of rose oxide, you are greeted with a burst of metallic and slightly green notes that resemble the fresh, dewy aroma of crushed rose petals. This compound provides a modern, almost futuristic twist on the classic rose scent, adding a vibrant, sparkling quality.

• Diphenyl oxide - Diphenyl oxide offers a delicate yet persistent floral character that is reminiscent of white lilies and sweet peas. Its clean and airy profile imparts a sense of brightness and clarity to the fragrance, enhancing its overall luminosity.

• Geranyl acetate - Geranyl acetate, commonly associated with geranium, presents a bright, rosy, and slightly citrusy scent. Its uplifting and refreshing qualities evoke the sensation of a blooming garden on a sunny morning, with a hint of green leaves and stems.

• Nerol - Nerol introduces a sweet, fresh, and slightly fruity floral note that is both delicate and invigorating. Its light and airy nature adds a subtle freshness that complements the other floral elements in the composition.

• Lyral (4%) (green note) - Lyral brings a green, slightly floral note that is reminiscent of lily of the valley. Its fresh and clean aroma adds a crisp and dewy quality to the fragrance, enhancing its natural and vibrant aspects.

• Hydroxycitronellol - Hydroxycitronellol provides a soft, sweet, and floral scent with a hint of citrus. Its gentle and pleasant aroma contributes to the overall smoothness and elegance of the fragrance.

• Phenylacetylaldehyde - Phenylacetylaldehyde offers a rich and honeyed floral note that is reminiscent of hyacinth and narcissus. Its warm and slightly spicy undertones add depth and complexity to the fragrance.

• Natural rose oil - The natural rose oil exudes a deep, rich, and opulent floral scent that is both intoxicating and romantic. Its lush and velvety aroma captures the essence of blooming roses, adding a timeless elegance to the composition.

• Aldehydes C10 and Aldehydes c12 lauric - Aldehydes C10 and C12 lauric provide a sparkling, effervescent quality with a hint of waxy, soapy freshness. These aldehydes contribute to the fragrance's bright and lively character, creating a sense of airy sophistication.

• Hedione (6%) - Hedione brings a luminous, radiant jasmine-like note with a hint of citrus. Its subtle and smooth character enhances the overall floral bouquet, adding a touch of elegance and modernity.

• Helional (1%) - Helional offers a fresh, marine, and slightly floral scent that is reminiscent of sea breeze and water lilies. Its clean and refreshing qualities add a unique, aquatic dimension to the fragrance.

• Natural jasmin (3-4%) - Natural jasmine imparts a rich, sweet, and intoxicating floral aroma that is both sensual and opulent. Its heady and exotic scent enhances the fragrance's overall depth and allure.

• Styrax oil - Styrax oil provides a warm, balsamic, and slightly sweet note with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Its rich and resinous aroma adds a touch of warmth and sensuality to the composition.

• Indol - Indol introduces a slightly animalic and musky note that adds depth and intensity to the floral elements. Its presence enhances the natural, heady quality of the jasmine and rose, creating a more complex and intriguing scent.

• Vetiveryl acetate & Vetiver (6%) - Vetiveryl acetate and vetiver contribute a woody, earthy, and slightly smoky note that is both grounding and sophisticated. Their rich and dry aroma adds a touch of masculinity and elegance to the fragrance.

• Sandalwood - Sandalwood offers a creamy, woody, and slightly sweet note that is both soothing and luxurious. Its warm and smooth aroma provides a rich and enduring base for the fragrance.

• Evernyl - Evernyl, a synthetic oakmoss, introduces a deep, earthy, and slightly mossy note that adds a sense of natural sophistication. Its presence enhances the fragrance's overall complexity and uniqueness.

• Coumarin - Coumarin provides a sweet, warm, and slightly spicy note with hints of freshly mown hay and vanilla. Its comforting and familiar aroma adds a touch of warmth and sweetness to the composition.

• Musk ketone & Cyclopentadecanolide - Musk ketone and cyclopentadecanolide offer a soft, powdery, and slightly animalic note that is both sensual and clean. Their presence enhances the fragrance's overall depth and longevity, adding a smooth and lingering finish.

• Vanillin - Vanillin imparts a warm, creamy, and sweet vanilla note that is both comforting and indulgent. Its rich and familiar aroma adds a touch of sweetness and warmth to the fragrance, rounding out the composition.

Calandre's innovative use of Evernyl, inspired by Caleche by Hermes and Madame Rochas, sets it apart as a pioneering fragrance. The intricate blend of synthetic and natural aroma compounds creates a harmonious and sophisticated scent that is both timeless and modern. Each ingredient contributes to the fragrance's overall complexity, resulting in a rich and multi-dimensional olfactory experience.

Bottles:

The presentation of Calandre by Paco Rabanne is as distinctive and forward-thinking as the fragrance itself. Encased in a square, silver-edged clear bottle, the design is the brainchild of Pierre Dinand, a prominent figure in the world of perfume bottle design. Dinand drew inspiration from the sleek, modern facade of the United Nations building, mirroring the fragrance's contemporary and sophisticated character.

The square shape of the bottle, with its clean lines and geometric precision, reflects the minimalist and industrial aesthetic that was revolutionary in the late 1960s. The clear glass allows the pale golden liquid inside to be fully visible, creating a sense of purity and transparency. This transparency is framed by the striking silver edges, which add a touch of modern elegance and reinforce the metallic theme that runs throughout the fragrance.

The bottle's manufacturing process was a collaboration between two renowned companies: Pochet et du Courval and Augros. Pochet et du Courval, a historic glassmaker known for its expertise in creating luxurious perfume bottles, was responsible for the glass portion of the design. Their craftsmanship ensured that the bottle was not only aesthetically pleasing but also durable and of the highest quality.

Augros, a company specializing in plastic components, contributed to the design by providing the plastic elements of the bottle. This combination of materials—glass for clarity and durability, and plastic for functionality and modernity—embodies the innovative spirit of Calandre.

The design of Calandre's bottle is a testament to the forward-thinking vision of both Paco Rabanne and Pierre Dinand. The bottle's modern and minimalist aesthetic stands out on any vanity, making a bold statement about the sophistication and elegance of the fragrance within. The clear glass and silver edging evoke a sense of luxury and modernity, appealing to those who appreciate both classic beauty and contemporary design.

The bottle's inspiration from the United Nations building adds a layer of symbolism, suggesting a sense of global sophistication and timeless architectural beauty. It conveys a message of unity, progress, and elegance, aligning perfectly with the fragrance's identity as a modern classic.

The bottle of Calandre by Paco Rabanne, designed by Pierre Dinand and manufactured by Pochet et du Courval with plastic components by Augros, is a masterpiece of modern design. Its clean lines, clear glass, and silver edging reflect the fragrance's sophisticated and contemporary character. Inspired by the United Nations building, the bottle stands as a symbol of elegance, innovation, and timeless beauty, perfectly encapsulating the essence of Calandre.

Atlas, 1969:

"But Paco Rabanne, the fashion welder, finally got what he wanted. His new perfume, Calandre, is now available: a square bottle in a silvery box with a metal lock. And it actually smells a little like metal, like a printing shop or a blast furnace."

In 1980, Calandre by Paco Rabanne was presented in a limited edition flacon crafted by the esteemed Cristalleries de Baccarat. Known for their exquisite crystal creations, Baccarat brought unparalleled elegance to this special release. 

Fate of the Fragrance:

The original Calandre by Paco Rabanne, a beloved scent launched in 1969, eventually faced discontinuation, though the exact date remains unknown. It continued to be sold until at least 1998, suggesting a strong market presence and enduring popularity for nearly three decades. During this time, Calandre maintained its status as an iconic fragrance, cherished for its unique aldehydic floral chypre composition and its avant-garde metallic undertones.

In response to evolving regulations from the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which imposed restrictions on certain ingredients due to potential allergens, Calandre underwent a significant reformulation. One of the key changes was the exclusion of oakmoss, a traditional chypre component that contributed to the fragrance’s earthy, mossy base. The reformulation aimed to preserve the essence and character of the original scent while adhering to modern safety standards. This process involved replacing oakmoss with alternative ingredients that could replicate its depth and richness without causing allergic reactions.

In 2013, Paco Rabanne relaunched Calandre with a modern twist, both in its composition and packaging. The updated fragrance maintained the spirit of the original, offering a contemporary interpretation that aligned with current regulations and consumer preferences. The new packaging reflected the brand’s commitment to innovation and modernity, possibly featuring sleek, updated designs that resonated with a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts. This relaunch allowed Calandre to reclaim its place in the market, appealing to both longtime fans and new admirers who appreciated its timeless elegance and modern sensibility.

The journey of Calandre from its original launch to its discontinuation and eventual reformulation highlights the fragrance's resilience and adaptability. Despite regulatory challenges, the essence of Calandre endured, thanks to careful reformulation and thoughtful relaunch efforts. The 2013 reintroduction ensured that this iconic scent continued to captivate and inspire, bridging the gap between classic perfumery and contemporary trends.

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