Ishah by Charles of the Ritz c1954

Launched in 1954, Ishah by Charles of the Ritz is an intriguing perfume, with a name steeped in meaning and mystery. The choice of the name "Ishah" is particularly evocative, as it is the Hebrew word for "woman." This simple yet profound name captures the essence of femininity in its most elemental form. While the name might not have been immediately understood by non-Hebrew speaking women, its exotic sound and the elegance of its pronunciation would have undoubtedly piqued curiosity and evoked a sense of intrigue.

The word "Ishah" conjures images of timeless beauty and universal femininity, transcending cultural and linguistic boundaries. It is a name that suggests a connection to something ancient and enduring, a tribute to the essence of womanhood that has been celebrated throughout history. For women of the 1950s, a perfume named "Ishah" might have felt empowering, as it speaks directly to their identity as women. The name would have resonated with an aura of sophistication and depth, suggesting a fragrance that is both classic and modern, rich in meaning yet accessible.

The mid-1950s was a period of post-war optimism and growth, where women were beginning to assert their independence and explore new identities. Perfumes of this era often reflected this change, moving towards more complex and daring compositions that allowed women to express their individuality. In this context, "Ishah" would have stood out as a unique offering in the market, a fragrance that not only appealed to the senses but also spoke to the heart.

While there may not have been specific films or novels at the time directly tied to the Hebrew theme of "Ishah," the broader cultural context of the 1950s was one of exploration and rediscovery of ancient cultures and traditions. This was a time when themes of history, spirituality, and identity were being explored in art, literature, and cinema, making a perfume like "Ishah" particularly resonant. In the broader context, the 1950s was a time when Jewish characters and themes began to gain more prominence in film, reflecting the growing awareness and exploration of diverse cultural narratives. While not always central, these films contributed to the evolving representation of Jewish and Hebrew elements in cinema.

"Ishah" is classified as a light, spicy oriental fragrance with an herbal chypre base, spiked with oakmoss and amber. This classification suggests a scent that is both warm and inviting, yet complex and sophisticated. The herbal chypre base would provide a grounding, earthy quality, while the spices add warmth and intrigue. Oakmoss and amber, with their rich, resinous tones, would lend depth and sensuality to the fragrance, making it a perfect reflection of the multifaceted nature of womanhood.

In comparison to other fragrances on the market at the time, "Ishah" would have been seen as both innovative and in line with the growing trend towards more sophisticated and layered perfumes. The 1950s saw the rise of more intricate scent compositions that went beyond the simple florals of earlier decades, and "Ishah" would have been a part of this evolution. Its blend of oriental spices, herbal notes, and earthy undertones would have appealed to women looking for a fragrance that was both modern and timeless, a scent that expressed their strength, elegance, and sensuality.

The Diplomat, 1954:

"Look for: “Ishah,” a French perfume by Charles of the Ritz that captures the chic of Paris, the mystery of the Mediterranean, the excitement of Spain and mellow warmth of Italy. A subtle blend of amber and herbs with mossy undertones."

Cue, 1954:

"Witness the interest some of the season's classier starters are arousing, such as Charles of the Ritz' sophisticated, Eastern-flavored Ishah."

Woman's Home Companion, 1956:

"Charles of the Ritz's Ishah perfume in colorful Persian slipper. $2.50."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light, spicy oriental fragrance for women with an herbal chypre base spiked with oakmoss and amber.

• Top notes: bergamot, aldehydes, lemon, neroli, coriander, tarragon, lavender
• Middle notes: cinnamon, clove, pepper, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation
• Base notes: patchouli, vanilla, musk, tonka bean, ambergris, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, incense, myrrh

 

Scent Profile:

The scent of Ishah unfolds like a carefully crafted story, each note revealing a chapter in an olfactory journey. It begins with the bright, invigorating introduction of bergamot, a citrus burst that dances with sunlight. Imagine stepping into a sunlit garden, where the tangy freshness of bergamot mingles with the crispness of lemon, enhancing the fragrance with its sharp, zesty brilliance.

As you explore further, the air is filled with the effervescent sparkle of aldehydes, adding a modern, soapy clarity that refreshes the senses. The fragrance then settles into the warmth of neroli, where the sweet, honeyed scent of orange blossoms creates a luxurious and inviting atmosphere. Coriander follows with its spicy, herbal edge, offering a hint of warmth and earthiness that adds depth to the composition.

In the heart of the fragrance, tarragon introduces a fresh, green aroma with a subtle hint of anise, adding a layer of intriguing complexity. This is beautifully complemented by the soothing presence of lavender, whose herbaceous floral scent evokes a sense of calm and refinement.

As the perfume develops, the warmth of cinnamon begins to emerge, wrapping you in its spicy, sweet embrace, reminiscent of cozy, comforting moments. Clove follows, with its rich, spicy aroma adding a bold, exotic touch, while pepper introduces a piquant kick that invigorates and excites the senses.

The heart blooms with the opulent, sensual scent of jasmine, its rich floral aroma creating an atmosphere of romance and elegance. This is further enhanced by the classic sweetness of rose, adding a timeless, romantic quality. Ylang-Ylang brings a touch of tropical allure, its heady sweetness blending seamlessly with the floral notes.

Amidst these vibrant heart notes, carnation adds a spicy, floral dimension, evoking a sense of depth and complexity. As the fragrance transitions, the base notes begin to unfold, starting with the earthy richness of patchouli, grounding the scent with its deep, woody aroma.

Vanilla follows with its creamy, sweet warmth, enveloping the fragrance in a luxurious, comforting embrace. Musk introduces a soft, sensual warmth, adding a gentle, lingering depth. The rich, nutty aroma of tonka bean adds a touch of indulgent sweetness, enhancing the fragrance with its creamy richness.

As the scent deepens, ambergris brings a warm, slightly marine quality, adding an exotic sophistication that lingers enticingly. Sandalwood contributes a creamy, woody note, its soft richness blending harmoniously with the other base notes.

The earthy, green aroma of oakmoss provides a grounding depth, reminiscent of a lush forest, while vetiver introduces a smoky, woody complexity. Incense adds a resinous, aromatic warmth, evoking a sense of ancient mystery, and myrrh concludes the fragrance with its rich, smoky depth, creating a sense of timeless elegance.

Together, these ingredients weave a narrative of sophistication, warmth, and complexity, capturing the essence of Ishah in an enchanting, multi-layered experience.

Bottles:

Ishah, a distinguished fragrance by Charles of the Ritz, was notably crafted with exceptional care and quality, being one of the few perfumes from the brand that was entirely made, bottled, and sealed in France. This meticulous production process underscores the fragrance’s commitment to luxury and authenticity.

The presentation of Ishah was as elegant as its composition. The perfume was housed in boxes adorned with gunmetal gray soutache trim, elegantly contrasting against a soft turquoise and white background. This sophisticated packaging not only enhanced the visual appeal but also echoed the refined nature of the fragrance within.

The Ishah collection was available in a range of formats to suit various preferences and occasions. The smallest offering was a 1/8 oz parfum purse bottle, featuring a screw cap for convenient portability. For those desiring a more substantial quantity, the 1/4 oz and 1/2 oz parfum bottles provided a richer experience. Additionally, the line included a mist and eau de toilette, catering to different intensities of wear. To complement the fragrance, a luxurious 6 oz dusting powder was also offered, allowing for an all-encompassing sensory indulgence.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.

CLICK HERE TO FIND ISHAH PERFUME BY CHARLES OF THE RITZ