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Monday, May 11, 2015

Chantilly by Houbigant c1940

Chantilly by Houbigant: launched in 1940. The fragrance was created by "nose" Marcel Billot and Paul Parquet and named after the famous Chantilly laces.



Chantilly was available in the following:
  • Parfum
  • Eau de Toilette
  • Eau de Cologne
  • Liquid Skin Sachet
  • Dusting Powder
  • Face Powder
  • Bath Softener
  • Bath Tablets
  • Talcum Powder
  • Stick Perfume


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? The original Chantilly is classified as a chypre (woody, mossy, spicy type). A warm and harmonious perfume with a strong spicy note.

Born to the heritage of the Houbigant family, Chantilly was meticulously blended to capture the right balance of many essences. Each with its own character: together the harmony is pure magic. Start with orange blossom and spice to make it tangy and tantalizing. Subtly add the exotic woodiness of Indian sandalwood, patchouli, chypre and vetiver. Envelope a hint of rose and precious jasmine for extra body. And for long lasting quality, French oakmoss completes the balance. The result is a perfume with a soft, romantic nature; a fragrance that could be worn anywhere at any time. As contemporary as it is classic.
  • Top notes: neroli, Italian bergamot, lemon, fruit note, wisteria, sweet pea
  • Middle notes: peony, spices, clove, orange blossom, rose, ylang ylang, carnation and jasmine
  • Base notes:  leather, orris, tonka bean, Indian sandalwood, musk, benzoin, vetiver, oakmoss, Sumatra patchouli, vanilla and amber

Combat, 1953:
"Warm peonies, cloves, sweet peas and wisteria supported by a very slightly musky chypre, and powdered with a touch of iris. We think of lace dresses moving in a park, under the great nocturnal canopy of the Ile-de-France sky. Nonchalant violins. Skin-deep chatter. A “je ne sais quoi” that is lukewarm, subtle, crumpled, languid and undone. Music by Ravel. Painting by Watteau. French tradition in crystal walls."


LIFE, 1955:
"Chantilly Eau de Toilette with silk net atomizer in glamorous "Giftorama.". $5.00 Chantilly "Giftorama" with Liquid Skin Sachet and Eau de Toilette. $3.50 Chantilly Perfume in magnificent "Giftorama" setting. $5.00."

Fate of the Fragrance:

During the years of 1994-96, Chantilly was sold to Dana, but was able to retain the name of Houbigant. A lawsuit followed where Houbigant accused Dana of selling a watered down version of Chantilly. The lawsuit also accused Dana of selling the formula to unlicensed manufacturers.

 In 2000, a reformulated version of Chantilly came back on the market.  This newer version is classified as a soft, refined, ambery oriental fragrance.
  • Top notes: fruity notes, neroli, bergamot and lemon
  • Middle notes: spices, carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose and orange blossom
  • Base notes: leather, tonka bean, musk, benzoin, oakmoss, vanilla and Indian sandalwood



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