Cleopatra's Boudoir: Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc.

Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur, Inc. was an obscure yet intriguing Parisian perfume company with a flair for distinctive fragrances. Little information is available about the company’s origins or its lasting impact, but it's perfumes have an air of post-war mystique, suggesting a blend of French elegance with a hint of the exotic. The brand’s creations reflect a unique identity that appealed to both Parisian and international markets during a time of vibrant creativity in perfumery. Despite its relatively low profile compared to other French houses, Jean D'Hennery’s fragrances still capture attention, especially among vintage perfume enthusiasts seeking rare scents from lesser-known artisans of the era.

In the United States, Jean D'Hennery operated as Jean D'Hennery, Inc., under the business name Nemours in New York, New York. This dual branding likely helped the company gain a foothold in the American market, leveraging the allure of French perfumery while adapting to local tastes. Nemours served as an avenue for Jean D'Hennery’s perfumes to reach a broader audience, hinting at the company’s desire to extend its appeal beyond French borders, despite its modest renown.

In 1946, a new charter for corporation was filed in Delaware, by the Jean D'Hennery, Parfumeur Inc. with a capital of $25,000. Its principal office was US Corporation Company.

Among the perfumes released by Jean D'Hennery, Kim and Mouky stand out as their most recognized fragrances. Kim, with its simple yet evocative name, suggests a light and perhaps exotic scent, possibly influenced by the rising curiosity in Eastern cultures during the post-war period. This fragrance may have featured floral or spicy notes, designed to evoke subtle mystery and allure. Meanwhile, Mouky presents a playful, youthful side of the brand, likely incorporating bright or aldehydic notes to create a lively and spirited impression. Both perfumes reflect Jean D'Hennery’s ability to capture diverse moods and sensibilities within its creations, demonstrating a range of expression uncommon in smaller, lesser-known perfume houses. These scents remain as alluring remnants of the brand’s legacy, offering a glimpse into the understated yet sophisticated world of Jean D'Hennery Parfumeur.

The perfumes of Jean D'Hennery of Paris France:

1946 Chantaco
1946 Dogaresse
1946 Guittre-Amour
1946 Kim
1946 Languer
1946 Magnificat
1946 Mouky
1946 Reconciliation
1946 Reine de Saba
1946 Retour
1946 Reverence
1946 Tendre Espoir
1946 Toutounne
1946 Triomphe D'Amour
1953 Jasmy
1953 Provoquant
1953 Plaisir de France
Gardenia
Romero

Chantaco:

Launched in 1946, Chantaco could allude to the famous Chantaco golf course in the Basque Country, associated with the elite of the time. A fragrance by this name might lean towards woody or green notes, embodying a sporty yet refined elegance reminiscent of crisp outdoor air. The scent may have offered freshness, perhaps with herbal or pine undertones, suggesting sophistication with a touch of leisure.

Dogaresse:

Dogaresse references the title given to the wife of a Doge, the Venetian rulers of past centuries. Likely inspired by opulence and Venetian luxury, this fragrance might have opened with deep, exotic florals like jasmine or orange blossom paired with warm spices, evoking the rich traditions of Venetian perfumery. There may have also been ambery or oriental accords, giving it a warm, luxurious finish.

Guittre-Amour:

With Guittre-Amour translating loosely to “Guitar Love,” this fragrance likely exudes romance with a touch of artistic flair. Notes of rose, violet, or perhaps powdery iris could have composed its core, balanced by soft, musky accords. Imagine the charm of love-struck serenades in fragrant form—delicate, nostalgic, and tender.

Kim:

The simple name Kim could suggest a fragrance inspired by exotic or Eastern influences, as post-war curiosity for faraway cultures was on the rise. The word "kim" in the Hmong language translates to "expensive." The scent may have leaned toward light florals, tea notes, or subtle spices like ginger, evoking a mysterious yet understated charm.

Languer:

Languer, meaning “Languor” in English, hints at a sensual and dreamy fragrance. It may have featured plush florals like tuberose or gardenia, combined with a creamy, perhaps slightly animalic base. Such a fragrance would aim to capture a sense of lethargic, seductive allure, resonant with post-war escapism.

Magnificat:

Magnificat, inspired by the religious term, likely conveyed something powerful and majestic. This fragrance might have been anchored in resins like frankincense and myrrh or opulent floral notes like rose and jasmine. The scent could evoke the solemnity and beauty of cathedrals and sacred rituals, with a touch of woody or smoky accords adding gravitas.

Mouky:

Mouky, launched in 1946 is classified as a floral fragrance for women. The playful name Mouky suggests a lighthearted fragrance, perhaps even leaning youthful or flirty. It could have featured fruity or bright floral notes—possibly orange blossom, peach, or light aldehydes—capturing an energetic and spirited vibe.

Top notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, orange blossom, neroli
Middle notes: peach, rose, jasmine, honeysuckle, geranium, melissa
Base notes: sandalwood, musk, civet, oakmoss

Reconciliation:

Reconciliation, meaning the mending of relationships, would evoke warmth and comfort. Likely, it contained mellow, soft notes like heliotrope, vanilla, or gentle woods, creating a cozy, reassuring aura. This perfume may have been created to symbolize peace and renewal after the recent war, offering a sense of healing.

Reine de Saba:

Reine de Saba translates to “Queen of Sheba,” a nod to exotic, Eastern opulence. This fragrance likely opened with lush, oriental notes like frankincense, sandalwood, and perhaps dark fruits or spices, capturing the essence of regal luxury. It may have been a rich, exotic scent with both boldness and mystery.

Retour:

Retour, meaning “Return,” evokes nostalgia or the theme of coming home. This scent might have incorporated comforting elements—perhaps soft florals and earthy or woody notes like patchouli or vetiver—intended to be grounding and familiar, with a slightly wistful character. This may be the other name for the Jean D'Hennery perfume Romero, which means "I'll be back" in Italian.

Reverence:

Reverence could denote an air of respect and awe. Likely, this fragrance included noble, traditional notes like iris or cedarwood, with a touch of powdery elegance. It would create a sense of refined sophistication, suitable for more formal or ceremonial occasions.

Tendre Espoir:

Translating to “Tender Hope,” Tendre Espoir suggests a light, uplifting fragrance. Florals like lily of the valley, or a hint of citrus and soft musks, may have defined its character, embodying optimism and a gentle sweetness reflective of post-war recovery and renewed optimism.

Toutounne:

Toutounne carries an affectionate, even playful tone. This could have been a more vivacious fragrance, potentially featuring fruity, aldehydic, or even gourmand notes, designed to be youthful and spirited—perhaps appealing to those seeking cheerfulness in fragrance form.

Triomphe D'Amour:

Meaning “Triumph of Love,” Triomphe D'Amour might celebrate romance with a bold floral bouquet of roses or peonies, possibly underscored by amber or sandalwood. This fragrance likely aimed to be an opulent declaration of passion, with enduring base notes symbolizing commitment.

Jasmy:

Launched in 1953, Jasmy almost certainly centered around jasmine, a flower often associated with seduction and exotic appeal. This would likely have been an intoxicating floral perfume, with supporting notes of tuberose, gardenia, or possibly soft musks, enhancing its rich, seductive allure.

Provoquant:

Provoquant, or “Provocative,” suggests a bold, enticing fragrance meant to intrigue. The composition may have featured spicy, oriental notes such as cinnamon or clove paired with dark florals like ylang-ylang, offering a head-turning, assertive quality suited to confident individuals.

Plaisir de France:

Translating to “Pleasure of France,” Plaisir de France could embody the charm and elegance of French perfumery. A fragrance by this name might blend classic florals like rose and lavender with hints of citrus, creating a fresh yet sophisticated scent that embodies timeless French style.

Each of these fragrances reflects a post-war era of experimentation and a return to elegance, with many likely focusing on rich floral bouquets, exotic spices, and warm, comforting notes that were beloved in the 1940s and 1950s. Their names reflect a variety of emotions and imagery, from romance and triumph to nostalgia and hope, allowing us to imagine how they might have appealed to the cultural and emotional landscape of the time.

Romero:

Bottles:

In 1953, various bottles were available for the Jean d'Hennery fragrances:

The "Sac d'Amour" in the Kim fragrance, a 1 oz bottle in a decorated velvet bag retailed for $35.

The "Flacon Pour Le Sac" held 1/4 oz parfum in either Kim, Plaisir de France, Jasmy, Chantaco. Provocant, or Chypre. It retailed for $5.50.

The "Modele Avion," held 1/4 oz parfum in either Kim, Plaisir de France, Jasmy, Chantaco or Chypre. It retailed for $5.50.

The small "Modele Etui en Cuir" held 1/4 oz parfum in either Kim, Plaisir de France, Jasmy, Chantaco or Chypre. It retailed for $6.50.

The larger "Modele Etui en Cuir" held 1/2 oz parfum in either Kim, Plaisir de France, Jasmy, Chantaco or Chypre. It retailed for $10.00.

The "Doll Size" held 1/8 oz (dram) parfum in either Kim, Plaisir de France, Jasmy, Chantaco or Chypre. It retailed for $3.00.

The "Set of 6" was a collection of six fragrances in flacons totalling 6/7 oz of parfum. This set held Kim, Plaisir de France, Jasmy, Chantaco or Chypre. It retailed for $18.00.

The "Set of 4" was a collection of four fragrances totalling 1 oz of parfum. This set held Kim, Provocant, Jasmy, and Chantaco.. It retailed for $20.00.