L'Elu by Parfums Marquay c1946

L'Elu by Parfums Marquay, launched in 1946, carries a name that evokes a sense of prestige, individuality, and special significance. The word "L'Elu" (pronounced leh-LOO) is French, meaning "the chosen one." It is a term imbued with connotations of exclusivity, evoking the idea of something or someone being singled out for their exceptional qualities. For women of the 1940s, a perfume named "L'Elu" would have suggested elegance, refinement, and the allure of being unique and desired. The post-war era, with its atmosphere of hope and renewal, would have heightened the appeal of such a name, allowing women to feel as though they were selecting not just a fragrance, but a symbol of personal distinction.

The imagery and emotions connected to "L'Elu" are those of empowerment, sophistication, and perhaps even a touch of mystery. The name conjures up visions of an elegant woman who stands out in a crowd, her presence undeniable yet understated. It suggests a sense of inner confidence, a woman who knows her worth and carries herself with poise. The concept of being "chosen" would resonate deeply, especially in a post-war society where women were beginning to redefine their roles and reclaim their independence. Perfume during this era was not just a luxury; it was an expression of identity, and "L'Elu" would have perfectly aligned with the desires of women seeking to establish a refined and unique personal image.

In terms of scent, "L'Elu" is classified as a chypre fragrance, a beloved and classic structure in perfumery known for its balance between fresh, floral, and earthy notes. A distinctive jasmine note anchors the composition, giving it a floral heart without becoming overwhelmingly sweet or overly feminine. The name "L'Elu" would likely be interpreted in scent as something poised between tradition and modernity—neither too flowery nor too spicy, but rather striking the perfect balance. The perfume would exude an understated power, reflecting its wearer as both sophisticated and grounded. The chypre’s oakmoss and patchouli base would add depth, while the jasmine would provide a timeless floral elegance, ensuring that the fragrance felt simultaneously classic and forward-thinking.

In 1946, as the world emerged from the turmoil of World War II, women’s fashion, beauty, and perfumery were marked by a return to glamour and opulence, yet there was also a desire for something new, something that reflected a modern sensibility. The popularity of chypre fragrances during this time reflected that shift; they were known for their complexity and elegance, favored by women seeking refined, multidimensional scents. L'Elu would have fit within this trend, offering the classic structure of a chypre with a distinctive twist—its jasmine note. While jasmine was a familiar floral component in many perfumes, L'Elu's use of it as neither too floral nor too spicy ensured that it felt distinct and memorable compared to other offerings on the market.

In a landscape where perfumes were either deeply romantic and floral or heavy and oriental, L'Elu straddled the line between those extremes. It offered women something modern and sophisticated, a fragrance that could accompany them from day to night, one that wasn’t overly sweet or overly intense. Its balanced composition and evocative name positioned it as a unique offering—perhaps not entirely revolutionary, but certainly distinctive enough to capture the attention of the discerning woman of the late 1940s.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fragrance for women with a distinctive jasmine note, neither too flowery nor too spicy.

• Top notes: aldehydes, petitgrain, lemon zest, bergamot, narcissus and galbanum
• Middle notes: orris, tuberose, clary sage, orange blossom, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang and Grasse jasmine
• Base notes: cistus, vetiver, castoreum, opoponax, vanilla, musk, amber, oakmoss, sandalwood, patchouli, labdanum, Virginia muscat cedar

L'Art et la Mode, 1959:

"Its scent has the sumptuousness of the irreplaceable Chypre wrapped in the scent of Bulgarian rose and jasmine from Grasse, with a cutting edge of Muscat cedar from Virginia, sweeter than the cedar of Lebanon. And one can already find the toilet perfume L'Elu; as is Rock N Roll in his dressing exclusive of Salvador Dali. Another creation of Marquay: L'Eau de Marquay for men which is the equal of the best Colognes."

Scent Profile:

In the enchanting fragrance of L'Elu, each ingredient unfolds a unique story, creating an olfactory experience that is both captivating and complex. The fragrance opens with a vibrant burst of aldehydes, their effervescent qualities swirling like sparkling champagne, invigorating the senses with a bright, almost electric freshness. This sparkling introduction is beautifully complemented by the crispness of petitgrain, which adds a green, slightly bitter quality reminiscent of freshly crushed orange leaves, evoking the feeling of a sun-drenched orchard. 

The invigorating notes of lemon zest provide a zesty sharpness that dances playfully in the air, awakening the spirit and adding an uplifting brightness. Bergamot follows suit, with its sweet, citrusy aroma enveloping the senses in a warm embrace, reminiscent of early morning sunshine spilling over a vibrant landscape. 

The ethereal, powdery touch of narcissus adds a floral elegance, unfolding softly as its delicate petals release a soft whisper of springtime. Finally, the earthy, slightly resinous note of galbanum emerges, grounding the fragrance with a rich, green earthiness, creating a harmonious balance to the lighter top notes.

As L'Elu transitions into its heart, the orris brings forth an exquisite, velvety smoothness that is both soothing and luxurious, evoking the sensation of silk against the skin. This opulent note is seamlessly complemented by the creamy richness of tuberose, which offers an intoxicating floral sweetness, lush and captivating, conjuring images of moonlit gardens. 

The herbaceous quality of clary sage introduces an intriguing depth, its slightly musky and earthy aroma adding a subtle complexity that lingers in the air. The bright and cheerful notes of orange blossom weave through the heart, their sweet, honeyed scent reminiscent of blooming trees under a warm sun, infusing the fragrance with a joyful exuberance. 

The Bulgarian rose contributes a luxurious, velvety floral character, its romantic aroma adding a classic elegance, while the ylang ylang enhances this bouquet with its rich, exotic sweetness, creating an aura of sensuality. At the core of this exquisite heart lies the signature Grasse jasmine, its lush, heady aroma enveloping the senses in a floral embrace that is neither too flowery nor too spicy, striking a perfect balance that feels timeless and captivating.

As the fragrance begins to settle, the base notes of L'Elu emerge with a rich, enveloping warmth. The resinous depth of cistus introduces a sophisticated, balsamic quality, imparting a sense of mystery that beckons to be explored. The earthy, smoky nuances of vetiver create a beautifully grounding effect, reminiscent of rich soil after rain, adding a complex richness to the fragrance. 

The animalic warmth of castoreum introduces an alluring, slightly leathery facet, enhancing the fragrance's depth with its intriguing, musky qualities. The rich, sweet aroma of opoponax envelops the senses, its honeyed resin adding an ethereal sweetness that feels both soothing and exotic. 

Vanilla weaves a silky, comforting warmth into the base, its creamy sweetness enhancing the overall richness while adding a nostalgic touch. The musky undertones of musk envelop the wearer in an alluring embrace, providing a sensual warmth that lingers on the skin.

As the fragrance continues to unfold, the golden warmth of amber adds a soft, resinous glow, wrapping everything in a luxurious blanket of warmth and depth. The earthy richness of oakmoss contributes a classic chypre touch, grounding the scent with its green, woody aroma that evokes the sensation of walking through a sun-dappled forest. 

Sandalwood, with its creamy, soft woodiness, envelops the fragrance in a rich, velvety embrace, imparting a soothing calmness that harmonizes beautifully with the other notes. The complexity of patchouli introduces a spicy, earthy quality, enhancing the depth of the fragrance while adding a hint of rebelliousness. 

The warmth of labdanum and the slightly woody, dry aroma of Virginia muscat cedar round out the base, providing a perfect finish that is rich and enduring, leaving a lasting impression that echoes the fragrance’s elegant complexity. Together, these notes create an unforgettable symphony that speaks to the spirit of the modern woman—sophisticated, timeless, and undeniably unique.

Bottles:

Like other offerings from Parfums Marquay, L'Elu was elegantly presented in a squat octagonal clear glass bottle, characterized by its unique molded curves that lend an air of sophistication. The bottle is crowned with a striking diamond-cut stopper, which occasionally featured a luxurious gold plating, enhancing its allure. These petite treasures were often nestled within delicate drawstring pouches crafted from sumptuous velvet or intricate brocade, which not only protected the fragrance but also added a touch of opulence to the unboxing experience. The introduction of brocade pouches around 1960 marked a charming evolution in packaging, reflecting the era's penchant for artistry and elegance in perfumery. This thoughtful presentation underscored the exquisite nature of L'Elu, inviting the wearer to indulge in the luxurious experience it offered.

Other bottles include:

• 2 oz cologne flacon with oval mirror.
• 1/4 oz parfum purse flacon with round cut mirror with velvet pouch
• 1/4 oz aerosol parfum purse flacon in lizard sheath

Fate of the Fragrance:

L'Elu by Parfums Marquay was introduced to the market in 1946, a period marked by a desire for renewal and elegance following the turmoil of World War II. This fragrance captured the spirit of the time, combining sophistication with the promise of a brighter future. Though it was well-received, L'Elu was ultimately discontinued, with the exact date remaining elusive in the annals of fragrance history. Interestingly, it continued to be available for purchase as late as 1966, suggesting that it retained a loyal following even after its initial launch.

The fact that L'Elu was still sold in 1966 highlights its lasting appeal during a decade when fashion and beauty were undergoing significant transformations. Women of this era were increasingly drawn to bold, expressive fragrances that complemented their newfound independence and vibrant lifestyles. L'Elu, with its unique chypre profile and distinctive jasmine note, resonated with the desires of those looking for something both refined and modern. Despite its eventual discontinuation, L'Elu remains a cherished piece of fragrance history, embodying the essence of post-war femininity and elegance that continues to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.