Zut by Schiaparelli c1948

In 1948, the time period when Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Zut," Europe was emerging from the aftermath of World War II, entering a period of recovery and renewal marked by a blend of nostalgia for pre-war elegance and a burgeoning interest in modernity. This was reflected in fashion trends moving towards more streamlined silhouettes and a mix of optimism and reflection in art and culture.

Elsa Schiaparelli, known for her avant-garde approach to fashion, was also a trailblazer in the world of perfumes. Her connection to perfumes stemmed from her belief that fragrance was an essential part of one's personal style, akin to wearing a piece of clothing. Schiaparelli collaborated with renowned perfumers like Jean Carles and worked with the fragrance house Roure to create scents that embodied her bold and innovative spirit.

The name "Zut," meaning "damn" in French, was characteristic of Schiaparelli's irreverent and daring style. For her, choosing "Zut" as a name for a perfume was likely a playful defiance of convention, injecting a touch of her trademark wit and sass into the fragrance. This name would have resonated with individuals who appreciated Schiaparelli's unconventional approach to fashion and beauty, appealing to those seeking something distinctive and daring in their perfume choices.

"Zut" as a perfume name evokes a range of images and feelings. It carries a sense of spontaneity and surprise, much like an exclamation one might utter unexpectedly. It suggests a perfume that is vibrant, energetic, and perhaps a little mischievous—a scent that captures attention and leaves a lasting impression. 

Those who encountered "Zut" would likely have responded with curiosity and intrigue, drawn to its unconventional name and the reputation of its creator, Schiaparelli. The perfume would have appealed to individuals who embraced the avant-garde and sought to express their personality through distinctive scents. Overall, "Zut" by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1948 was not just a fragrance but a statement—an embodiment of post-war optimism combined with the irreverent spirit of its creator.

In 1948, Elsa Schiaparelli unveiled her groundbreaking "jungle" inspired collection, which revolutionized haute couture with its daring use of fabrics and avant-garde accessories. Models graced the runway in the latest sheer nylon stockings and flowing dresses, showcasing the then-novelty of nylon. Adding to the spectacle were Schiaparelli's iconic "jungle hats," featuring jaunty cloche styles and velvet tricornes adorned with pearl festoons, cocky ostrich feather aigrettes, and even masks of tiger or fox affixed to the crowns, serving as avant-garde visors that captured the imagination of fashion enthusiasts.

Central to Schiaparelli's 1948 collection were her distinctive color choices. She introduced "Vert Zut," a deep, medium green shade that epitomized the lush and exotic essence of the jungle. This color was complemented by "Zut Mauve," a pinky mauve hue that added a touch of sophistication and contrast to her fabrics. The swanky combination of "Vert Zut" and "Zut Mauve" not only defined her haute couture pieces but also extended to the presentation box of the Zut perfume itself, ensuring that every aspect of Schiaparelli's artistic vision was cohesive and meticulously curated.

News-Press, 15 Aug 1948:

"Schiaparelli's jungle colors - green, pink, blue, bronze and silver - are repeated in a range of stocking shades of the sheerest nylon matched to new winter fabrics...Perugia of Paris made high shoes or "pattens" of astrakan or other furs for Schiaparelli's jungle theme. To heighten the tropical note, inspiration of many models, the salons were sprayed with an exotic new perfume called Zut, a fragrance scheduled for the Christmas market."

The use of these bold colors in both fashion and fragrance packaging underscored Schiaparelli's innovative approach to design, where every element—from garment to accessory to perfume—was imbued with a sense of narrative and visual impact. By integrating "Vert Zut" and "Zut Mauve" into her collection and perfume presentation, Schiaparelli not only pushed the boundaries of fashion but also created an enduring legacy that celebrated creativity, daring, and the artistry of color.

The name "Zut" sparked controversy in its time, particularly in France, where its pronunciation as "zoot" carried the meaning of "damn" or an expression of mild frustration. This playful yet bold choice reflected Elsa Schiaparelli's irreverent approach to both fashion and fragrance. According to the book "Antique Trader Perfume Bottles" by Kyle Husfloen and Penny Dolnick, the name "Zut" was reportedly inspired by a personal incident involving Schiaparelli at a train station, where the elastic waist of her slip broke, causing it to fall to her feet—a moment captured in the perfume's whimsical and unexpected name.

In a 1950 issue of the Cincinnati Enquirer, Schiaparelli herself dismissed any deeper meaning behind the name, stating that it simply came to her spontaneously one day as she walked through the suit production room of her Paris atelier. This casual explanation added to the mystique surrounding the fragrance, suggesting that "Zut" was born out of a moment of creative inspiration and perhaps a touch of whimsy, rather than deliberate intention. The contradictory interpretations of the name—from a personal mishap to a whimsical invention—highlighted Schiaparelli's ability to blend personal experience with artistic flair, ultimately contributing to the fragrance's enduring charm and controversy.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was described as bittersweet, warm floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot and French blackcurrant
• Middle notes: French calendula, Alpine cyclamen, Dutch linden blossom, Comoros ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, Alpine lily of the valley, Grasse rose
• Base notes: Venezuelan tonka bean, Omani frankincense, Russian leather, Mexican vanilla, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Florentine orris, Tibetan musk

 

According to Basenotes.com member danielremy, the perfume "Zut" offered a distinctive olfactory experience that blended elements reminiscent of Russian Leather and Shalimar. Known for its complex composition, the fragrance opened with a robust leathery note characterized by birch tar, akin to fragrances like Lubin's Cuir de Russie or Jet by Corday. This initial impression evoked a sense of boldness and richness, setting a strong and memorable tone.

As "Zut" progressed into its drydown phase, it transitioned into a softer, more amber-infused base reminiscent of the classic scent profile found in Shalimar. This shift added a layer of warmth and elegance to the fragrance, balancing the initial intensity of the leather notes with a velvety smoothness that appealed to wearers seeking sophistication and depth.

While "Zut" may not have achieved the same level of commercial success as Schiaparelli's iconic "Shocking" perfume, it still garnered praise for its intriguing blend and memorable character. For enthusiasts like danielremy, the perfume remained a fascinating olfactory journey—a testament to Schiaparelli's ability to craft fragrances that captivate with their complexity and allure, offering wearers a unique and enjoyable scent experience.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Spontaneous interjection, harsh and a little violent at the start...but which becomes suave and charming like a lover's quarrel."

Scent Story:

In the heart of Paris, within the opulent setting of Elsa Schiaparelli's salon, anticipation swirled as guests awaited the unveiling of her latest collection, accompanied by the launch of her new fragrance, Zut. The salon exuded an air of sophisticated decadence, adorned with fresh cyclamens and roses that filled the room with their sweet, floral aroma. Mme. Schiaparelli stood amidst her avant-garde creations—unusual spangled cocktail couture that shimmered under the soft glow of crystal chandeliers, paired with leather high heels that pushed the boundaries of fashion.

As the guests took their seats, Mme. Schiaparelli took center stage, her presence commanding attention as she introduced Zut as the perfect complement to her evening cocktail fashions. She spoke passionately about the fragrance, emphasizing the rare and costly raw materials sourced from around the world that contributed to its allure and sophistication.

In the midst of the presentation, I see models striding confidently down the runway in Schiaparelli's creations. The cocktail couture, adorned with intricate spangles that caught the light, dazzled alongside the avant-garde leather high heels, each pair a masterpiece of craftsmanship and innovation. The room buzzed with admiration as guests admired the bold yet elegant designs, perfectly matched with the delicate blooms of cyclamens and roses that adorned the salon.

I smell the intricate layers of Zut, a bittersweet, warm floral oriental fragrance that unfolds with every step. The journey begins with the vibrant freshness of Calabrian bergamot and the fruity allure of French blackcurrant, setting a lively and inviting tone. As the fragrance evolves, French calendula and Alpine cyclamen blend harmoniously with the gentle sweetness of Dutch linden blossom and the exotic floral notes of Comoros ylang ylang, Grasse jasmine, Alpine lily of the valley, and Grasse rose. Each note adds depth and complexity, creating a luxurious olfactory tapestry that mirrors the richness of Schiaparelli's couture.

I taste the essence of elegance in every detail of the evening—a refined selection of canapés and cocktails that complement the fragrance's sophisticated profile. The flavors, chosen to enhance the sensory experience, offer a palate that mirrors the notes of Zut—subtle, yet distinct in their luxurious blend.

I hear the whispers of awe and appreciation among the guests, punctuated by Mme. Schiaparelli's passionate descriptions of the fragrance's creation. Her voice carries the dedication and artistry that went into sourcing the rare ingredients—Venezuelan tonka bean, Omani frankincense, Russian leather, Mexican vanilla, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Florentine orris, and Tibetan musk—all contributing to Zut's opulent and sophisticated allure.

As I reach out, I touch the textures of Schiaparelli's creations, feeling the smoothness of silk and the intricate detail of spangles that echo the complexity and refinement of the fragrance. The leather high heels underfoot add a tactile dimension to the sensory experience, their avant-garde design a testament to Schiaparelli's innovative spirit.

In this moment, surrounded by creativity and luxury, Mme. Schiaparelli's vision comes to life—a celebration of artistry, innovation, and the enduring allure of Zut. It's a fragrance that captivates with its timeless elegance and sophistication, embodying the spirit of haute couture and the vibrant energy of Parisian nights.

Bottles:

In 1948, Elsa Schiaparelli launched her perfume "Zut" in a distinctive frosted glass bottle that was as much a piece of art as it was a vessel for fragrance. The design of the bottle was whimsical and daring, characteristic of Schiaparelli's avant-garde approach to fashion and beauty.

The bottle depicted the lower body of a woman, believed to be inspired by the famous French entertainer Mistinguette. In this playful design, Mistinguette is shown wearing fancy striped and dotted panties trimmed in fringe. The humorous twist comes with her star-spangled skirt, which has dropped to the floor in a fluff around her ankles. In response to this wardrobe malfunction, Mistinguette exclaims "Zut!"—a French exclamation meaning "damn" or "oops," adding to the charm and irreverence of the design. 

This depiction not only captured Schiaparelli's playful spirit but also underscored her belief in the interconnectedness of fashion, art, and fragrance. By incorporating such a whimsical and theatrical design into the perfume bottle, Schiaparelli not only created a visual spectacle but also invited the wearer to embrace a sense of humor and adventure through the fragrance. The bottle was cleverly designed to complement the naked torso Schiaparelli had used years earlier for Shocking.

For those who encountered "Zut" in its frosted glass bottle, the experience would have been akin to discovering a miniature work of art—an object that blended fashion, humor, and scent into a single captivating package. The playful depiction of Mistinguette and her exclamation "Zut!" would have further reinforced the perfume's image as a bold and distinctive choice for individuals seeking to express their personality through fragrance.

Five sizes were available in the "legs" bottle.

• 5.75" tall 
• 5.5' tall (2 oz) (originally retailed for $48 in 1949)
• 5" tall (1 oz) (originally retailed for $30 in 1949)
• 3 5/8"tall (1/2 oz or 3/8 oz) (originally retailed for $18 in 1949) This size was packaged in the suede pouch.
• 2 1/4" (1/8 oz)

c1949 Schiaparelli Zut perfume bottle and stopper in clear glass with gold detail, sealed, ribbon, box with rare silk garter; includes short-lived re-edition from 1997, sealed in box. 5 5/8 in. Photos from Perfume Bottles Auction.

Hearst's 1948:

"As a bottle for her new perfume, Schiaparelli introduces, and high time, too, the underpinnings of her famous shocking torso. A pair of tantalizing legs in spangled trunks holds two ounces of an exotic tropical bouquet. It is called "Zut."

The New Yorker, 1948:

"Schiaparelli's Zut, which comes in a bottle that is shaped like a circus girl's legs, is just what it sounds like; it doesn't even pretend to be subtle."

Hartford Courant, 3 Oct 1948:

"Schiaparelli's new perfume "Zut" means "ooh la la!" in French. It's bottled in a divine naughty affair of a pair of legs in spangled trunks standing in a fluff of skirt. If you're interested, it's about $40...we said $40!"

Cue, 1948:

"Mme. Schiaparelli is another one of the old timers who has come up with a new perfume. Hers is called "Zut" which, as you know, is untranslatable, but epitomizes Gallic insouciance. Its two-ounce bottle (at a modest $40) is the other half of the now famous Schiaparelli dressmaker torso bottle."

The Cincinnati Post. 4 Oct 1948:

"Well, at last there are some legs to go with that poor glass torso that's been standing about on damsel's dressing tables the last few years. The new legs are wearing spangled trunks and a fluff of skirt, and they house the "other half" of Schiaparelli's Shocking. It's a new perfume called Zut. That's French for "ooh, la la." Zut is described as "warm, sensuous, alluring, tropical" and it comes in a package encircled with a jungle green ruffled garter. Might at least be a pair of garter for the price, a mere $40."

Modern Packaging, 1949:

"Most unusual is the container just announced for Schiaparelli's new perfume called "Zut," a 2-oz. bottle forming the other half of the now famous Schiaparelli dressmaker torso bottle. Publicity releases describe the form of the bottle as "an uninhibited pair of legs in spangled trunks standing in a fluff of a skirt with a satin sash encircling the "waist" or neck of the flacon. The bottle is packaged in a jungle green and mauve box, gold lettered and circled with an elastic ribbon garter. A miniature version of this bottle, for the toe of someone's stocking, is $3.60, and Zut cologne, in torso bottles (no legs), costs $6 and $10.80."

Star Tribune, 13 Nov 1949:

"If perfumes could speak, Schiaparelli's ZUT would be the wit of them all. Straight from Paris to you, in luxurious presentations gaily reminiscent of the Mauve Decade. It's an amusing gift dressed up in its beautiful box or in a suede "Mad Money" bag. Prices from $15, $25 and $40."

Mademoiselle, 1949:

"Schiaparelli's new Zut, in a naughty leg-art bottle. $15. three-eighth ounce. Saks Fifth Avenue."

The New Yorker, 1949:

"And when it comes to dropping subtlety completely, there is Schiaparelli's Zut, in the familiar and rude bottle shaped like the lower half of a girl in tights. This perfume comes in three sizes ($18, $30 and $48) packed in a green and orchid box with a garter around it. A miniature version of this bottle, for the toe of someone's stocking, is $3.60, and Zut cologne, in torso bottles (no legs) costs $6 and $10.80. And don't forget Schiaparelli's luscious Shocking, which has more of a Mother-was-a-lady air."

Modern Packaging, 1950:

"Schiaparelli's "leg art" French bottle for Zut perfume is now housed in green suede, satin-lined drawstring bag."

Harper's Bazaar, 1951:

"To wear with it, another exclamation point — Schiaparelli's "Zut" perfume."

Cue, 1951:

"Schiaparelli's latest creation new two-ounce bottle of Zut Eau Cologne, paired with a miniature warm, intoxicating Zut perfume. A lightful gift in purple and green $5.75."

 Vogue, 1951:

"Schiaparelli's Zut, a perfume bound to leave in its wake a spicy, warm, diverting note - always.  The perpetuating factor: a tiny replica of the famous Schiap bottle — to reinforce the scent, whenever."

Harper's Bazaar, 1952:

"To wear with it, another exclamation point — Schiaparelli's "Zut" perfume."

Package Design, 1953:

"Here, for example, the Schiaparelli perfume flacons, the ' Shocking ' tailor's dummy and the ' Zut ' " leg art," show the influence of surrealism.— In the advertisements, the flacon is the central theme." 

Fodor's Women's Guide to Europe, 1954:

"Schiaparelli, 21 Place Vendome. "Succes Fou"— indeed a mad success; "Salut"— for young girls; "Snuff '—tweedy, masculine; "Sleeping"— wistful, delicate; "Shocking"— elegant, refined; "Zut"— shocking; "Roi Soleil"— luxurious."

 

Baccarat Cube Stoppered Bottles:

First presented in 1938 and used throughout the 1940s, this clear glass bottle was created to hold the pure parfum, and was not only used for Shocking, but served as a standard bottle for several other Schiaparelli perfumes such as So Sweet, Sleeping, Salut, Le Roy Soleil, Zut, etc. I believe that this sober bottle style was used in response to World War II restrictions on importations, especially glass bottles and supplies from Czechoslovakia and Italy.

This bottle is a domestic French product, Baccarat model #788, manufactured for Schiaparelli only. It is a tall, upright rectangular shape and features a faceted glass cube as the stopper. The smallest size features a stopper that has an attached dauber. The base of the bottle is usually molded with "Schiaparelli" and "French Bottle". 

Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume "Zut" by Elsa Schiaparelli, initially launched in 1948, captivated wearers with its bold, irreverent charm. However, like many iconic fragrances of its time, "Zut" faced discontinuation around 1965, marking the end of its initial era in the fragrance world. Despite its departure from the market, "Zut" remained a nostalgic memory for those who cherished its unique blend and distinctive character.

In 1998, "Zut" experienced a revival when it was reimagined and reformulated by Nathalie Feisthauer of Givaudan-Roure, a renowned perfumer known for her skill in honoring the heritage of classic scents while infusing them with modern sensibilities. The reformulation saw the fragrance elevated into an Eau de Parfum concentration, marking a renewed chapter in its olfactory journey. This relaunch breathed new life into "Zut," reintroducing it to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts who appreciated its historical significance and timeless appeal. Feisthauer's reinterpretation sought to preserve the essence of the original "Zut" while adapting it to contemporary tastes and olfactory preferences.

The relaunch of "Zut" as an Eau de Parfum aimed to enhance its longevity and projection, offering a more intense and sophisticated version of the beloved fragrance. This new formulation allowed wearers to experience the intricate blend of notes—likely including the initial potent leathery birch tar opening and the soft ambery base—in a richer and more nuanced manner. By adapting "Zut" to the Eau de Parfum concentration, Feisthauer ensured that the fragrance continued to resonate with both longtime admirers and new audiences, reaffirming its status as a timeless and captivating scent in the world of perfumery.

The reformulated "Zut" of 1998 retained the spirit of Schiaparelli's original creation, likely capturing the playful irreverence and bold elegance that defined the fashion icon's aesthetic. This relaunch not only honored the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli but also ensured that "Zut" continued to enchant perfume aficionados with its distinctive blend of nostalgia and modernity. By aligning the fragrance with current trends and preferences, the reformulated "Zut" of 1998 secured its place as a timeless classic, bridging the gap between past allure and present-day allurements in the world of perfumery.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber (oriental) fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, black currant, cyclamen
• Middle notes: marigold, ylang-ylang, linden flower, jasmine, lily of the valley, rose
• Base notes:  iris roots, tonka, incense, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood and musk

Scent Profile:

The reformulated version of "Zut," introduced in 1998 under the guidance of perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer, featured a meticulously crafted composition that aimed to preserve the essence of Elsa Schiaparelli's original creation while infusing it with contemporary allure. At the top, the fragrance greeted wearers with a vibrant blend of bergamot, black currant, and cyclamen. These notes provided an initial burst of freshness and fruitiness, setting a dynamic and inviting tone for the olfactory journey to come.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, Feisthauer artfully combined marigold, ylang-ylang, linden flower, jasmine, lily of the valley, and rose. This floral bouquet added layers of complexity and elegance, intertwining delicate blooms with a hint of sweetness and freshness. Each note contributed to the perfume's harmonious balance, creating a lush and captivating floral heart that evoked sophistication and femininity.

As "Zut" transitioned to its base notes, Feisthauer introduced a rich and warm foundation that anchored the fragrance with depth and longevity. Iris roots imparted a powdery yet earthy quality, complemented by the sweetness of tonka and the exotic allure of incense. Vanilla added a touch of creamy sweetness, while cedar and sandalwood provided a woody accord that was both comforting and refined. Musk rounded out the base with its sensuous and musky undertones, enhancing the overall allure of the fragrance with a subtle hint of seduction.

In essence, the reformulated "Zut" of 1998 was a testament to timeless elegance and modern sophistication. Its meticulously crafted blend of floral, fruity, and woody notes created a multifaceted aroma that appealed to both classic fragrance enthusiasts and contemporary sensibilities alike. This composition not only honored the legacy of Schiaparelli's original creation but also ensured that "Zut" continued to captivate and inspire with its enduring charm and allure.

CLICK HERE TO FIND ZUT BY SCHIAPARELLI