In 1980, when Parfums Rochas launched the fragrance "Macassar," the world was at a cultural crossroads. The 1980s marked an era of boldness and opulence, with a burgeoning interest in power dressing, luxury, and the emergence of men's grooming as a prominent trend. This was a time when masculinity was often portrayed through assertiveness, confidence, and a distinct sense of style.
The choice of the name "Macassar" for a men's fragrance by Parfums Rochas holds cultural and historical significance. "Macassar" refers to Macassar oil, a hair grooming product popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The word "Macassar" itself originates from the Makassar language, spoken in South Sulawesi, Indonesia. In English, it refers to an aromatic oil used by men to groom and style their hair, often associated with sophistication and grooming rituals of the past.
Macassar wood, from which the oil was derived, is known for its rich, dark color and pleasant fragrance. In perfumery, the term "Macassar" evokes images of elegance, refinement, and tradition. The scent is often warm, woody, and aromatic, making it a fitting inspiration for a men's fragrance aimed at those who appreciate classic grooming and timeless elegance.
For the man who would have related to a fragrance named "Macassar" in 1980, it would likely appeal to someone who values tradition, sophistication, and a sense of history. They might see it as a way to enhance their grooming routine with a touch of nostalgia for classic masculine elegance. The fragrance itself, created by Nicolas Mamounas in collaboration with Roger Pellegrino of Firmenich, would have been crafted to embody these qualities—perhaps featuring notes that are woody, aromatic, and subtly complex.
In summary, "Macassar" by Rochas, launched in 1980, was not just a fragrance but a statement—a tribute to tradition, sophistication, and the enduring appeal of classic masculine elegance in an era that embraced boldness and luxury.
Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody-leather aromatic chypre fragrance for men.
- Top notes: absinthe, bay, ginger, green notes, artemisia and bergamot
- Middle notes: pine tree needles, lignum vitae, carnation, cedar, geranium, jasmine, patchouli and vetiver
- Base notes: Macassar wood, guaiac wood, musk, ambergris, tobacco blossom, sandalwood, oakmoss and leather
Scent Story:
In the midst of the Victorian era, the quest for exotic treasures drew sailors to the distant Indonesian islands, where the allure of Macassar oil and its prized wood beckoned. As their ships cut through the turquoise waters, the air was thick with anticipation, mingling the briny scent of the ocean with the promise of rare botanicals and aromatic woods awaiting discovery.
These intrepid sailors, with their weather-beaten faces and calloused hands, sought not just adventure but the precious essence of Macassar wood, coveted for its dark, rich hues and intricate grain. Upon reaching shore, they bartered European goods for logs of this prized wood, knowing its value extended beyond furniture to perfumery. The fragrance of Macassar wood was unmistakable—a deep, resinous aroma infused with hints of leather and earth. As they handled the logs, their rough palms felt the smoothness of aged wood, imbued with centuries of tropical sun and monsoon rains.
Alongside Macassar wood, the sailors traded for other aromatic treasures. Ambergris, washed ashore and prized for its musky, marine scent, mingled with the sharp tang of bay leaves and the warmth of ginger root. Vetiver and patchouli leaves added an earthy depth, while sandalwood logs released a creamy, woody fragrance that lingered in the humid air. Pine tree needles added a fresh, green note, cutting through the heavier scents like a crisp sea breeze.
As they worked under the tropical sun, the sailors were enveloped in a sensory symphony. The scent of Macassar wood permeated the air, its complex bouquet a testament to nature's artistry. Imagine standing amidst stacks of fragrant wood, inhaling deeply—a blend of resinous sweetness and leathery undertones, balanced by the freshness of green notes and the warmth of ambergris and musk. The taste of salt lingered on their lips as they paused, surrounded by the bustling sounds of native traders and the distant calls of tropical birds.
In this tableau of exploration and trade, Macassar wood emerged as a cornerstone of perfumery—a woody-leather aromatic chypre fragrance that spoke of distant shores and untamed landscapes. Its allure transcended borders, weaving tales of craftsmanship and discovery that echoed through the Victorian era and beyond.
Bottles:
The bottle design of "Macassar" by Rochas, created in 1980, reflects a blend of artistry and functionality, characteristic of the era's emphasis on sleek, masculine aesthetics. Sculptor Serge Mansau was commissioned to design the bottles, resulting in a distinctive squat elliptical shape that exudes a sense of solidity and modernity. This choice of form was deliberate, aiming to convey a sense of strength and sophistication that resonated with the fragrance's target audience.
Each bottle is adorned with a black screw cap meticulously crafted to resemble the texture and appearance of macassar wood. This detail not only pays homage to the grooming traditions associated with Macassar oil but also adds a touch of tactile luxury to the packaging. The contrast between the sleek glass bottle and the textured cap creates a visually striking presentation, enhancing the overall allure of the fragrance as a premium product.
Production of these bottles was handled by prestigious French glassmakers, underscoring Rochas' commitment to quality and craftsmanship. Pochet et du Courval and Saint Gobain Desjonqueres, renowned for their expertise in glass manufacturing, ensured that each bottle met exacting standards of clarity and durability, while also contributing to the luxurious feel of the packaging.
In essence, the bottle design of "Macassar" by Rochas in 1980 encapsulates the essence of masculine elegance and contemporary design. From Serge Mansau's sculptural vision to the meticulous craftsmanship by French glassmakers, every detail was carefully considered to complement the fragrance inside and appeal to the discerning tastes of its time.
Fate of the Fragrance:
"Macassar" by Rochas was discontinued in 1992, marking the end of its initial run. However, in 2004, Rochas made the decision to revive and reformulate the fragrance, reintroducing it to the market. This relaunch aimed to breathe new life into the beloved scent, adapting it to contemporary tastes while retaining its classic appeal. The reformulated version of "Macassar" reflects Rochas' commitment to preserving the essence of the original fragrance while updating its composition to resonate with a modern audience. This strategic move allowed the fragrance to continue its legacy of sophistication and allure, appealing to both longtime admirers and new enthusiasts discovering it for the first time.
2004 Reformulation & Relaunch:
- Top notes: laurel, wormwood, fruity notes
- Middle notes: tobacco flower, geranium, carnation, patchouli, vetiver
- Base notes: sandalwood, oak moss, guaiac wood, cedar wood, musk, amber, coconut, Macassar wood
Scent Profile:
"Macassar" by Rochas, in its original and reformulated versions, features a complex and distinctive fragrance profile that appeals to fans of masculine scents. The composition begins with a bold opening of laurel, wormwood, and fruity notes, setting a lively and aromatic tone. These top notes provide an initial burst of freshness and herbal depth, preparing the senses for what unfolds next.
Transitioning into the heart of the fragrance, "Macassar" reveals its rich and textured character. Here, notes of tobacco flower, geranium, carnation, patchouli, and vetiver intertwine to create a warm and earthy accord. The floral hints from geranium and carnation blend seamlessly with the robustness of tobacco flower and the earthy spiciness of patchouli, adding layers of complexity and sophistication to the composition.
As the fragrance settles, the base notes emerge to leave a lasting impression. The combination of sandalwood, oak moss, guaiac wood, cedarwood, musk, amber, coconut, and Macassar wood forms a deep and resonant foundation. Sandalwood and cedarwood contribute their creamy and woody nuances, while oak moss and guaiac wood add a touch of resinous warmth. The inclusion of musk and amber lends a sensual and inviting aura, enhancing the fragrance's masculine allure.
Overall, "Macassar" by Rochas is celebrated for its balanced blend of herbal freshness, spicy florals, and a robust woody base. Whether experienced in its original vintage form or the 2004 reformulation, the fragrance evokes a sense of timeless sophistication and allure. Its intricate combination of notes ensures a memorable olfactory journey, making it a cherished choice among aficionados of classic men's perfumery.
Two Different Bottles:
To distinguish between the original and the 2004 reformulated versions of "Macassar" by Rochas, one can look to their distinct bottle designs, each reflecting the aesthetic sensibilities of its respective era. The original formulation, housed in an elliptical glass bottle, features a chunky black cap. This design choice emphasizes a robust and masculine appearance, echoing the fragrance's bold and sophisticated character from its inception.
In contrast, the 2004 reformulated version of "Macassar" is presented in a square-shaped clear glass bottle. The clear glass allows for a transparent view of the fragrance within, enhancing the modern and minimalist appeal of the packaging. The bottle is complemented by a silvertone cap, which adds a contemporary touch while maintaining a sense of elegance and simplicity.
These distinctive bottle designs not only serve practical purposes of housing the fragrance but also contribute to the overall branding and perception of "Macassar" over time. The original elliptical bottle with its chunky black cap evokes a sense of tradition and timeless appeal, aligning with the fragrance's classic status. Meanwhile, the square-shaped bottle of the 2004 reformulation embraces a more contemporary aesthetic, appealing to modern tastes while still paying homage to the essence of "Macassar."
Ultimately, whether one prefers the vintage allure of the original packaging or the streamlined elegance of the reformulated design, both versions of "Macassar" by Rochas offer a visual representation that complements the olfactory experience, capturing the essence of masculine sophistication in their own distinctive ways.
Fate of the Fragrance:
In 2010, Rochas, then under the ownership of Procter & Gamble, confirmed the discontinuation of "Macassar," signaling the end of both its original vintage formula and the reformulated version introduced in 2004. This decision left a void for enthusiasts of the fragrance, particularly those who cherished its fantastic masculine scent.
The original vintage formula of "Macassar" has since become a highly coveted item among collectors and connoisseurs. Its distinctive blend of notes and nostalgic appeal have contributed to its status as a sought-after fragrance from a bygone era. Due to its rarity and the fond memories associated with it, prices for the vintage bottles have soared to exorbitant levels in online marketplaces and auctions.
The reformulated version from 2004 also garnered some following, albeit not as fervently as the original. While it aimed to capture the essence of "Macassar" for contemporary audiences, its reception and popularity have not matched that of its predecessor.
However, the escalating prices for the vintage bottles have raised concerns among enthusiasts. Many lament the practice of price gouging, where sellers inflate prices far beyond reasonable levels. This phenomenon has made acquiring the original "Macassar" formula increasingly inaccessible to those who genuinely appreciate its scent and history.
In conclusion, the discontinuation of "Macassar" by Rochas has left a lasting impact on fragrance enthusiasts. While both the original vintage and reformulated versions have their admirers, the scarcity of the vintage formula and the associated price inflation have overshadowed the joy of acquiring this beloved fragrance.
Hello ! I think Macassar has been reformulated around 1986.
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