Jean de Parys

Parfums de Jean de Parys, a distinguished fragrance house, was founded in 1914 by Jean Cousin in Nanterre, a suburb of Paris situated in the Seine department. This Parisian brand quickly gained a reputation for creating exquisite perfumes that embodied the sophistication and elegance of French perfumery.

The brand's influence extended across the Atlantic when Arthur Feldman, operating under the name Jean de Parys in New York, secured the trademark for the name in the United States in 1924. Feldman recognized the growing demand for luxury beauty products in America and sought to bring the allure of Parisian fragrances to an eager American audience.

By 1925, Feldman had partnered with J. H. Wisan and L. Ashworth to establish the Jean de Parys Corporation in New York City. With an initial capital of $25,000, they set out to produce not only perfumes but also a range of beauty products, including face creams, powders, and rouge. This expansion marked a significant step in the brand's evolution, allowing it to establish a strong foothold in the competitive American market.

Through its Parisian roots and strategic business moves in the United States, Parfums de Jean de Parys became a symbol of transatlantic luxury, blending the artistry of French perfumery with the entrepreneurial spirit of New York.

 

Despite its brief existence, Parfums de Jean de Parys was renowned for its exquisite luxury presentations, a testament to its commitment to elegance and refinement. The company’s bottles were designed by the acclaimed designer André Jollivet, whose creations were noted for their sophistication and artistry. Additionally, some of these luxurious flacons were produced by the renowned glassmaker René Lalique, further enhancing the brand's reputation for high-quality craftsmanship.

However, the company’s brief tenure was marked by a number of inconsistencies, particularly in its advertising. Newspaper ads from the period occasionally misspelled the company's name as "Jean de Pary," reflecting a common issue with typographical errors of the time. Furthermore, advertisements often featured inaccuracies in the names of the perfumes, which could lead to confusion for both collectors and consumers. Despite these errors, the elegance of the products and the prestige of the designers involved have ensured that Parfums de Jean de Parys remains a distinguished name in the history of luxury perfumery.

Jean de Parys, a distinguished perfume house, introduced a range of evocative fragrances across the early 1920s. In 1921, the company launched Rose Glorie, a scent that captured the essence of luxurious roses. The following year, Rosée d’Été was unveiled, evoking the delicate freshness of summer mornings.

The year 1923 brought Premier Désir, a fragrance embodying the allure of first love. In 1924, Jean de Parys released a remarkable collection, including Chypre, known for its rich, woody notes; Jasmin, which celebrated the opulence of jasmine; Oeillet, a tribute to the spicy carnation; Violette, a nod to the sweet, powdery violet flower; Iris, highlighting the elegant iris; and Ambre, featuring warm, amber tones. Also introduced that year were Vague d'Or, a fragrance reminiscent of golden waves; L'Origan, a scent known for its oriental charm; and Désir, a perfume capturing the essence of yearning.

In 1925, the house continued its tradition of elegance with the launch of Lady Madeleine, a sophisticated scent, delicately sweet, captivating and intriguing; Sous le Gui, a haunting Oriental bouquet evoking the magic of mistletoe; Arôme de Fleurs, a floral symphony; Ambré de Patna, a rich amber fragrance reminiscent of Oriental incense; Bouquet de Fleurs, a garden in a bottle; and Zulena, a unique and enchanting blend, like a breath of spring.

In 1928, the Jean de Parys company underwent a significant transformation, rebranding as Cousin Frères and acquiring the esteemed hairdresser Desfossés brand, known for its ROJA line. This strategic move marked a new chapter for the company, shifting its focus to haircare products. By 1932, they introduced Brillantine Roja Ricinée, a groundbreaking product formulated from vegetable oils. This innovative brillantine quickly gained popularity, with nearly 4 million units sold by 1939.

The company's success continued to soar, culminating in the launch of Roja Flora Brillantine Perfume in 1953. This product achieved remarkable commercial success, with 8 million bottles sold. At its peak, Roja held a dominant position in the market, commanding an impressive 35% share and solidifying its reputation as the leading brillantine brand.

The perfumes of Jean de Parys:

• 1919 Arome des Fellas
• 1921 Rose Glorie
• 1922 Rosée d’Eté 
• 1923 Premier Desir 
• 1924 Chypre 
• 1924 Jasmin 
• 1924 Oeillet  
• 1924 Violette 
• 1924 Iris 
• 1924 Ambre  
• 1924 Vague d'Or  
• 1925 Lady Madeleine  
• 1925 Sous le Gui  
• 1925 Arôme de Fleurs 
• 1925 Ambré de Patna  
  
• 1925 Bouquet de Fleurs  
• 1925 Zulena 

The Miami News - July 15, 1926:

"Jean de Parys' Perfume and Powder. Somehow this Parisian has succeeded in capturing the most alluring and elusive of odors and bottling them for the joy of, not only the women of Paris, but now for the women of Miami, for in our Toilet Goods Department, you will find the line complete. Sous le Gui (Under the Mistletoe); Premier Desir, as fresh as the sun's first kiss to dawn; Vague d'Or (Wave of Gold); Chypre; Ambre de Patna; Lady Madeleine; Bouquet de Fleurs; Zulena; Iris; and other fascinating odors. Burdine &  Quaterman."

Bottles:

The exquisite bottles produced by Jean de Parys were crafted with remarkable elegance, reportedly by the renowned designer René Lalique. These bottles came in two striking variations: clear crystal and black crystal. The clear crystal bottles featured frosted glass stopper covers, adding a touch of refined sophistication to their design. In contrast, the black crystal bottles were complemented by frosted black glass stopper covers, creating a sleek and dramatic effect. Each variation exemplified the luxury and artistry associated with both Jean de Parys and Lalique, making these bottles not only functional but also collectible pieces of art. The stoppers were topped with long, silken tassels. Boxes were of a rich tone and heptagonal in shape.

The Perfumes:

Author's Note: In reviewing the information presented in this article, it's essential to understand the limitations in reconstructing the olfactory profiles of these historic perfumes. No direct olfactory references are available, as fragrance profiles for many of these long-lost scents are non-existent, and obtaining authentic samples remains extremely challenging. Consequently, the fragrance profiles provided here are hypothetical, crafted from original formulae and ingredients commonly listed in 19th and early 20th-century apothecary books whenever possible. For simpler “single note” fragrances, like Jasmin, Chypre, Rose, Violette, and Ambre, basic ingredients were selected based on traditional formulations typical of the era.

The creation of these profiles relies on educated guesswork, especially for more complex floral, oriental, or chypre compositions. Most perfumeries at the time adhered to foundational structures when composing their scents, layering accords and commonly using animalic notes to enhance depth and longevity. Early perfume compositions would have primarily used natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures, but with the turn of the century, the introduction of new synthetic aromachemicals marked a shift in perfumery. By the early 20th century, synthetic bases and prefabricated accords became accessible to perfumers, introducing a broader palette of effects. Many of these prefabricated bases have become extinct and cannot be replicated today due to restrictions on certain ingredients or their scarcity.

The profiles outlined here serve merely as a framework to help understand the compositions that companies of that era might have crafted. Should I acquire any of these perfumes in sample form, I will compare my observations to these reconstructions and provide updates accordingly. Any discrepancies in scent will be duly noted, with adjustments made to the profiles to reflect the nuances of an original reference sample.

Rose Gloire:

Rose Glorie, launched in 1921 by Jean de Parys, is an evocative fragrance launched in the early 1920s, drawing from the era's fascination with opulence and natural beauty. Translating to "Glory of the Rose," its name hints at a luxuriant, rose-centered bouquet intended to celebrate the richness and allure of this classic floral note.

The fragrance opens with a bright yet restrained touch of bergamot in the top notes, adding a fresh, slightly citrusy sparkle that prepares the senses for the layers to come. This effervescent start introduces the delicate complexity of the composition.

Moving to the heart of the fragrance, several varieties of rose take center stage, harmonized with lavender and carnation. The rose notes likely offer a range of floral nuances, from the powdery to the deep, with the lavender adding a subtle, herbaceous quality that enhances the sophistication of the scent. Carnation, known for its spicy and clove-like aroma, enriches the bouquet with a touch of warmth and depth, creating a more dynamic floral profile.

In the base notes, the composition becomes notably complex and rich. Rosewood tincture and vanilla tincture introduce a warm, woody sweetness, further intensified by a blend of musk tincture and tonka bean, which lend a soft, creamy quality. The earthy, nutty notes of coriander and the rich, woody depth of patchouli bring an exotic edge, grounding the floral elements. Sandalwood, with its smooth and slightly milky profile, ties together the fragrance’s sensual foundation.

Overall, Rose Glorie would likely evoke a feeling of floral grandeur balanced by a warm, comforting base. The blend of multiple rose varieties with intricate, textured woods and spices creates an experience that honors the timeless charm of rose while infusing it with a distinct vintage elegance.

Rosée d’Été:

Rosée d’Été (1922) by Jean de Parys is a fragrance introduced in 1922 that captures the essence of a "Summer Dew" — a name that suggests a fresh, early morning landscape where delicate floral scents intermingle with the first light of dawn. This perfume likely aimed to evoke a sense of soft floral beauty and gentle warmth, perfect for a summer daybreak.

The top notes open with the bright, slightly tart sparkle of bergamot, paired with the rosy, green nuances of rose geranium and the honeyed sweetness of cassie, which is derived from acacia blossoms. A touch of orange adds a zesty freshness, creating a radiant introduction that feels both uplifting and delicate, evoking the dewy air of a summer morning.

As the fragrance develops, the heart notes reveal a lush bouquet of rose, jasmine, violet, and tuberose, each adding its own distinct layer of floral richness. The rose brings a timeless, classic elegance, while the jasmine adds a sweet, almost narcotic quality. The violet contributes a powdery softness with a hint of greenery, while tuberose, with its creamy and intoxicating scent, provides a voluptuous, warm touch. Together, these heart notes offer a harmonious and richly layered floral experience, reminiscent of a blooming garden in full summer splendor.

In the base notes, the fragrance deepens with patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin, and cedar. The earthy, grounding qualities of patchouli balance the floral notes, while sandalwood adds a smooth, slightly milky warmth. Benzoin brings a balsamic sweetness, lending a soft, resinous finish that pairs beautifully with the woody, dry undertones of cedar. This combination of base notes anchors the fragrance, imbuing it with a gentle, lasting warmth that lingers like a soft summer breeze.

Rosée d’Été would likely have a serene and graceful character, blending the freshness of morning with the opulent blooms of a summer garden. The contrast of bright citrus and herbaceous floral notes with the depth of wood and resins creates a nostalgic yet timeless scent profile, evocative of peaceful summer mornings.

Premier Désir:

Premier Désir (1923) by Jean de Parys, or "First Desire," launched in 1923, invites wearers to experience a fragrance inspired by the freshness of dawn and the purity of a first kiss from the sun. This early morning vision encapsulates the idea of a soft, radiant start, a sentiment mirrored in the fragrance's composition and its description as a homage to Coty’s Paris.

Premier Désir opens with a bright, sparkling effect created by aldehydes, adding a soapy, fresh quality that heightens the floral notes of hyacinth and carnation. The hyacinth introduces a green, slightly aquatic freshness, while carnation brings a warm spiciness, adding dimension and intrigue. Spicy hints further deepen the opening, and violet brings a powdery, almost ethereal sweetness, evoking the delicate and dewy essence of a dawn garden.

The middle notes unfold into a lush heart of florals, blended with fruity and sweet touches. Lily lends a clean, almost creamy floral quality, while the subtle juiciness of peach adds a hint of soft fruitiness. Lilac brings a nostalgic, fresh aroma, often reminiscent of spring blooms, while ylang ylang adds its uniquely exotic and slightly banana-like richness. Heliotrope introduces a soft, powdery sweetness with almond undertones, mingling with the opulent depth of Bulgarian rose otto, a rich and earthy variety of rose. Finally, honey drapes the bouquet in a golden warmth, enhancing the richness and sweetness of the floral heart.

In the base notes, the composition finds an intense warmth and depth. Tibetan civet and Indian musk offer an animalic edge, imparting a sensual, almost primal quality. The warmth of Mexican vanilla and sweet, balsamic incense complement the animalic notes, while the rare and precious ambergris adds a subtle, oceanic saltiness. Oakmoss brings an earthy, slightly damp forest scent, grounding the perfume with its green, woody depth. Siamese benzoin enhances the resinous warmth, and the creamy, nutty sweetness of tonka bean completes the composition.

Premier Désir would likely feel luxurious, rich, and slightly powdery, with a contrast of fresh and warm tones. The blend of floral and resinous notes balanced with animalic depth creates an alluring, vintage elegance—an ode to dawn’s first light wrapped in sensual warmth.

  

Chypre:

Chypre (1924) by Jean de Parys, released in 1924, is an homage to the classic Chypre fragrance style, which draws its name from the French word for "Cyprus." This genre of perfume is known for its complex blend of fresh, floral, and earthy notes, evoking a lush Mediterranean landscape. Jean de Parys' Chypre would likely be a sophisticated, multilayered scent with an alluring interplay between bright citrus, herbaceous greens, and a richly resinous base.

In the opening, petitgrain, orange bigarade, bergamot, and limetta come together to create an effervescent citrus blend. Petitgrain offers a green, slightly woody citrus scent, while the bitterness of orange bigarade (bitter orange) contrasts with the light, uplifting sparkle of bergamot. Limetta, or sweet lime, adds a softer, sweeter citrus layer. The subtle floral aroma of neroli petale (neroli petals) rounds off the top, hinting at the floral heart notes to come and adding a touch of softness to the vibrant opening.

As the scent evolves, a verdant and floral middle accord emerges. Rosemary provides a clean, herbaceous touch, creating an aromatic edge that blends smoothly with the floral richness of orris (iris root), which brings a powdery, slightly earthy elegance. The rose adds a classic, timeless floral note, while tuberose contributes a rich, creamy warmth. Cassie, a fragrant acacia flower, lends a hint of honeyed sweetness, while hyacinth adds a green, slightly aquatic tone. Finally, geranium offers a rosy, lemony scent with a touch of sharpness, giving depth and dimension to the floral heart.

The base notes form the true foundation of the Chypre structure. Ambergris and musk create an animalic warmth, which blends with the sweet, balsamic tones of tonka bean and vanilla. These elements lend a soft, enveloping sweetness that contrasts with the earthy, grounding notes of oakmoss and labdanum, a resin that brings a slightly leathery, ambery scent. The earthy richness continues with patchouli and vetiver, each adding an intense depth with their woody, smoky nuances. The addition of storax, a resin with a soft, leathery fragrance, and sandalwood, with its creamy, milky warmth, enhances the depth and longevity of the scent. Finally, civet adds an animalic richness, bringing an intriguing sensuality to the perfume’s base.

Jean de Parys' Chypre would likely feel lush, complex, and evocative of natural landscapes. With its intricate layering of citrus, floral, and resinous notes, this fragrance captures both the freshness of a Mediterranean garden and the earthy, mysterious allure of deep woods. The combination of bright top notes with the dark, resinous base creates a balanced yet dynamic scent that embodies the timeless appeal of the classic Chypre style.

The Indianapolis News, 1926:

"Jean De Parys Perfumes are loveliest for evening occasions when soft lights flatter, when gowns are rich and gleaming, when conversation is sparkling, then Jean de Parys perfumes are most alluring! They may be worn for familytime occasions and very successfully, too, but not with the appropriateness that their exotic fragrance creates for evening. Jean de Parys perfumes may be had in Zulena, Jasmin, Chypre and Premier Desir odors, beautifully bottled, and priced, each, $15. Exclusive With Ayres in Indianapolis Ayres Toiletries, street floor. "

Jasmin:

Jasmin (1924) by Jean de Parys, introduced in 1924, is an olfactory ode to jasmine, one of perfumery’s most beloved and evocative flowers. Named simply for the flower that dominates its heart, Jasmin offers a lush and sensual experience, unfolding with rich floral notes and soft, animalic warmth in its depths. This fragrance likely sought to capture the creamy, heady quality of jasmine in full bloom, lending a sophisticated elegance to its wearer.

The opening notes present a fresh and lightly sweet introduction, with cassie (derived from the acacia flower) bringing a hint of honeyed warmth alongside neroli, which imparts a soft, green citrus nuance. These notes together create an airy, almost sparkling beginning that hints at the complexity and richness to come, while also providing a refreshing lift to the floral heart of the fragrance.

In the heart, jasmine takes center stage, exuding its characteristic opulent and slightly indolic richness. The inclusion of orange blossom adds a sweet, sunny brightness, enhancing the jasmine’s creamy facets with an almost soapy freshness. The soft powderiness of orris (iris root) adds a velvety texture to this floral bouquet, grounding the headier floral notes and introducing a gentle, earthy softness. Together, these middle notes create an impression of a lush, blooming garden, evoking the soft warmth of a spring evening.

The base notes lend a deeper sensuality to Jasmin. Civet, known for its animalic richness, adds a hint of warmth and muskiness that enhances the natural indolic quality of the jasmine, imbuing the fragrance with a vintage sensuality that was popular in the early 20th century. Ambrette, with its musky and slightly fruity nuances, provides a softer, vegetal muskiness that balances the boldness of civet. Finally, ambergris lends a subtle, salty warmth that enhances the longevity and depth of the scent, leaving a lingering, enveloping softness on the skin.

Overall, Jasmin would have been a deeply feminine and sensual fragrance, blending fresh florals with warm, animalic undertones. Its structure captures the duality of jasmine—its purity and its sultriness—creating a fragrance that is at once airy and grounded, radiant and mysteriously alluring.

Oeillet:

Oeillet (1924) by Jean de Parys, meaning "Carnation" in French, is a fragrance inspired by the spicy, vibrant qualities of the carnation flower. Launched in 1924, Oeillet offers a rich, warm bouquet that combines the peppery essence of carnation with layers of exotic spices and florals, anchored by a sensual, resinous base. This fragrance likely sought to evoke both the liveliness of fresh-cut carnations and the comforting warmth of spices and resins, making it both invigorating and enveloping.

The opening is a lively blend of floral, spicy, and herbal notes, where cassie brings a sweet, honeyed warmth that melds with the citrusy brightness of rose geranium and the floral freshness of neroli. Clove and pimento introduce an exotic spiciness, evoking the peppery aspect of carnation petals and adding a slightly fiery element. Cinnamon weaves a sweet warmth through the composition, while petitgrain (distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree) offers a green, woody touch that provides balance to the sweeter and spicier notes. Altogether, these top notes create a complex and intriguing opening that captures attention with its depth and vibrancy.

In the heart of the fragrance, a lush floral bouquet unfolds. The namesake carnation emerges with its signature spicy-sweet aroma, while orange blossom adds a bright, soapy freshness. Rose contributes a classic floral elegance, and tuberose brings a rich, creamy warmth. Jonquil (a variety of daffodil) lends a delicate, green floral note, while jasmine adds an indolic richness. Orris (from the root of the iris flower) provides a soft, powdery texture, while ylang ylang enhances the heart’s exotic allure with its deep, banana-like sweetness. Together, these middle notes create a harmonious floral accord that is simultaneously bold, sophisticated, and nuanced.

The base notes bring warmth, depth, and sensuality to Oeillet. Vanilla lends a creamy sweetness, softened by the balsamic richness of styrax and tolu balsam, which add resinous, almost smoky nuances. Musk and civet create a warm, animalic undercurrent, adding a touch of vintage sensuality, while benzoin introduces a sweet, slightly medicinal warmth that melds beautifully with the vanilla. Patchouli brings an earthy richness, and sandalwood offers a creamy, woody depth, both of which ground the more floral and spicy elements. Finally, ambergris adds a salty warmth that enhances the longevity and richness of the fragrance.

Jean de Parys’ Oeillet would have likely felt complex, warm, and spicy, with a balance of fresh floral and exotic spice. Its blend of bold carnation and deep resins captures the vintage elegance of early 20th-century perfumes, offering a fragrance that is equally invigorating and enveloping, with a depth and warmth that would linger beautifully on the skin.

Ambre:

Ambre (1924) by Jean de Parys, launched in 1924, is a captivating and opulent scent centered around the warm, resinous allure of amber. Named Ambre—the French word for amber—this fragrance evokes the luxurious, golden warmth and sensuality of this classic base note. Rich and complex, Ambre combines a blend of sweet florals, powdery tones, and earthy, animalic undertones, resulting in a scent that is simultaneously elegant and deeply enveloping.

The opening of Ambre introduces a delicate blend of orange blossom and reseda. Orange blossom brings a bright, fresh floral sweetness with a touch of citrus, immediately adding a soft, uplifting quality. Reseda, also known as mignonette, is a less common note in perfumery, known for its fresh, slightly green floral aroma that gently complements the orange blossom. This initial combination suggests a lighthearted yet sophisticated opening, capturing a warm, floral glow that hints at the rich depth of the fragrance to come.

In the heart, carnation, rose, orris, jasmine, and geranium create an intricate and multi-faceted floral bouquet. Carnation provides a spicy, clove-like warmth, while rose adds a timeless, romantic elegance. Orris, derived from the iris root, introduces a powdery softness that balances the rich florals, enhancing the perfume's velvety texture. Jasmine, with its lush, indolic character, adds a hint of sensuality, while geranium lends a green, slightly rosy nuance that harmonizes with the other floral notes. This heart evokes the timeless beauty of a garden in full bloom, with a powdery sophistication that anchors the rich warmth of the amber base.

The base of Ambre is a sumptuous blend of ambergris, civet, musk, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, styrax, patchouli, ambrette, rockrose, and vetiver. Ambergris adds a luxurious, oceanic warmth that enhances the amber's richness, while civet and musk lend an animalic depth that feels intimate and sensual. Vanilla and tonka bean bring creamy sweetness, adding warmth and a hint of comforting familiarity. Benzoin and styrax contribute a balsamic richness with a slightly smoky edge, while patchouli adds an earthy, woody depth. Ambrette, with its fruity, musky aroma, and rockrose (also known as labdanum), known for its resinous, amber-like scent, further enrich the composition. Finally, vetiver introduces an earthy, slightly green nuance, adding complexity to the base and enhancing its longevity.

This intricate layering of warm, resinous, and animalic notes makes Ambre a deeply inviting and luxurious fragrance. It would have evoked a sense of opulence and timeless elegance, with the amber and musk base creating a sensual, lingering warmth. Jean de Parys’ Ambre is a masterful composition that captures the essence of classic amber perfumes, enveloping the wearer in a warm, golden glow that feels both sophisticated and alluring.

Iris:

Iris (1924) by Jean de Parys, released in 1924, is an homage to the elegance and mystery of the iris flower. The French word Iris refers to both the flower and the noble quality of the orris root it produces, often associated with a powdery, earthy, and slightly woody scent. In this fragrance, the iris is enriched by a symphony of vibrant florals and creamy, sensual undertones, creating a perfume that feels both refined and delicately layered.

The opening notes of cassie, orange, orris root, and violet provide a soft, ethereal introduction. Cassie brings a honeyed, sweet warmth that gently complements the floral notes, while orange adds a bright, citrusy lift that feels refreshing and lively. Orris root, derived from the iris plant, imparts a velvety, powdery texture that anchors the scent with a touch of elegance, blending seamlessly with the violet, known for its powdery, slightly green facets. These top notes combine to create a delicate balance between fresh citrus and soft, earthy florals, setting a sophisticated tone from the outset.

In the heart of Iris, a rich bouquet of heliotrope, rose, ylang ylang, and jasmine unfolds, deepening the fragrance’s floral profile. Heliotrope brings a sweet, almond-like creaminess, enhancing the soft powderiness of orris root, while rose contributes a touch of classic, romantic elegance. Ylang ylang, with its exotic, banana-like sweetness, adds warmth and a slight spiciness to the blend, harmonizing with jasmine, which offers an indolic richness and sensuality. This floral heart layer enhances the sophistication of Iris, creating a smooth, creamy impression with hints of exotic allure, reminiscent of a finely manicured garden bathed in soft sunlight.

The base notes of lignum aloe and musk ground the fragrance with warmth and depth. Lignum aloe, also known as agarwood or oud, brings an earthy, slightly smoky quality that adds richness and a hint of mystery to the composition. This rare and precious wood contrasts with the lighter floral notes, giving the fragrance an elegant, timeless appeal. Musk provides a soft, skin-like warmth that enhances the powdery aspects of the orris and violet, leaving a delicate, lingering trail that feels both intimate and sophisticated.

Iris by Jean de Parys would have been experienced as a beautifully balanced and refined scent, highlighting the soft powderiness of orris alongside creamy florals and a deep, warm base. This fragrance captures the subtle elegance and mystery of the iris flower, using its delicate, powdery quality to evoke both classic refinement and a timeless charm.

Vague d'Or:

Vague d'Or (1924) by Jean de Parys, launched in 1924, presents a golden wave of warmth and floral richness, inspired by Houbigant’s Le Parfum Ideal. The name Vague d'Or, translating to Wave of Gold, evokes an image of luminous golden light and rich warmth, with a touch of oceanic intrigue. This fragrance’s composition unfolds with radiant citrus and rich floral accords, leading into a warm, ambery dry-down that feels both decadent and balanced, capturing a sense of classic, timeless elegance.

The top notes open with a fresh citrus burst that is bright and invigorating, bringing a natural zest and liveliness to the composition. This citrus brightness is softened by carnation, which adds a spicy, clove-like warmth, providing a subtle floral richness with an undercurrent of gentle spice. This introduction is refined yet approachable, like a warm breeze infused with light floral accents, gently setting the stage for the floral heart of the fragrance.

In the heart, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, orange blossom, and jasmine create a luxurious floral bouquet that deepens the composition. Bulgarian rose adds a velvety, romantic touch with its lush, slightly honeyed aroma, while ylang ylang contributes an exotic, creamy sweetness with hints of banana and spice. Orange blossom lends a fresh, slightly green floral note with an underlying citrusy brightness, harmonizing with the jasmine, which is rich and indolic, providing a touch of opulence. Together, these florals evoke the image of a sunlit garden in full bloom, adding a golden warmth to the fragrance that feels luminous and inviting.

The base of Vague d'Or is a complex blend of vanilla, tonka bean, patchouli, ambergris, musk, benzoin, sandalwood, and oakmoss. Vanilla and tonka bean bring a smooth, creamy sweetness, lending a comforting warmth to the fragrance. Patchouli introduces an earthy, woody depth, enhancing the golden theme with its slightly spicy, herbal edge. Ambergris and musk add an animalic, skin-like warmth, making the fragrance feel intimate and long-lasting. Benzoin contributes a rich, balsamic sweetness with a faintly smoky undertone, while sandalwood introduces a creamy, woody softness. Finally, oakmoss gives the composition an earthy, slightly green foundation, adding an element of grounded sophistication.

Vague d'Or would have been perceived as an elegant and luxurious fragrance, perfect for those who appreciated both warmth and complexity. The interplay between fresh florals, golden amber, and rich, musky base notes would have created a scent that felt simultaneously classic and alluringly rich. Jean de Parys captures in Vague d'Or the essence of golden luxury and timeless appeal, offering a fragrance that feels both luminous and deeply comforting.

Violette:

Violette (1924) by Jean de Parys, introduced in 1924, is a delicate yet layered fragrance centered around the subtle, powdery beauty of violet. The French name "Violette" directly translates to "Violet," reflecting its dedication to this modest but evocative flower. This perfume explores the softer, powdery facets of violet, complemented by hints of almond sweetness, creamy florals, and warm, musky base notes, creating an air of gentle elegance and refined sophistication.

In the top notes, a blend of cassie, almond, geranium, violet, and bergamot greets the senses. Cassie, with its sweet, honeyed warmth, adds a light floral opulence, while almond provides a creamy, subtly nutty richness that pairs well with the powdery nature of violet. Geranium lends a green, slightly peppery freshness, balancing the sweetness of violet and cassie. Bergamot, with its zesty citrus brightness, gives the top a crisp, uplifting quality. These opening notes create a soft, ethereal first impression that gently leads into the floral heart of the fragrance.

At the heart, jasmine, orris root, rose, heliotrope, and tuberose unfurl a floral bouquet that is both creamy and powdery. Jasmine offers a touch of sensuality with its indolic, lush aroma, while orris root (from the iris plant) introduces a powdery, almost velvety smoothness that amplifies the violet note. Rose brings a classic floral elegance, and heliotrope adds a sweet, almond-like creaminess that harmonizes beautifully with the top note of almond. Tuberose, with its dense, creamy scent, rounds out the heart with a touch of lushness. This blend of florals evokes a garden in soft bloom, with a powdery, almost vintage charm that feels both timeless and romantic.

The base notes of vanilla, tolu balsam, musk, and ambrette anchor the fragrance in warmth and sensuality. Vanilla provides a creamy sweetness, while tolu balsam, a resin with a slightly smoky, balsamic aroma, brings a touch of depth and warmth. Musk enhances the softness and longevity of the fragrance, creating a warm, skin-like aura, while ambrette seed, known for its slightly fruity, musky scent, adds a refined, vegetal muskiness that complements the delicate florals. Together, these base notes wrap the fragrance in a gentle warmth, allowing it to linger softly on the skin.

Jean de Parys’ Violette would have exuded a sense of quiet sophistication and femininity, with its powdery violet core and soft, warm base. The fragrance captures the essence of vintage floral perfumes with a unique depth and softness, providing a delicate and elegant experience that embodies the understated beauty of violet, made even more enchanting by the touch of almond sweetness and balsamic warmth.

Lady Madeleine:

Lady Madeleine (1925) by Jean de Parys is a fragrance that embodies delicate sweetness, captivating charm, and an air of intrigue. Launched in 1925, Lady Madeleine is a tribute to Coty’s L'Origan, drawing upon a lush tapestry of aromatic notes that evoke the elegance and sophistication of its era. The name Lady Madeleine suggests a refined femininity, hinting at a personality that is both sweet and enigmatic, inviting intrigue with every spritz.

At the top, a vibrant medley of French basil oil, cascarilla oil, lemon, and sweet orange creates a refreshing yet herbaceous opening. French basil oil introduces a green, slightly spicy freshness, while cascarilla oil, derived from the bark of the cascarilla tree, adds an exotic, slightly bitter note that adds depth to the citrus brightness. The zest of lemon and sweet orange infuses the composition with an uplifting, sunny character, reminiscent of a bright summer day. This is beautifully complemented by Bourbon ylang ylang, known for its rich, sweet, and slightly floral scent, adding a sensual twist. The inclusion of neroli, with its delicate, sweet floral aroma, and the juicy peach brings an enticing fruitiness to the forefront. Hints of pepper and coriander provide a subtle spiciness, while mandarin orange and bergamot enhance the citrus bouquet, resulting in an exhilarating introduction that feels both fresh and inviting.

The heart of Lady Madeleine transitions into a floral and spicy accord, featuring clove buds, violet, orchid, orange blossom, rose, and jasmine. This medley forms a rich floral tapestry, where clove buds introduce a warm, spicy depth that is beautifully balanced by the powdery sweetness of violet. The opulent orchid and the creamy, sweet notes of orange blossom contribute a sophisticated elegance, while rose and jasmine offer their romantic and intoxicating qualities. This blend is further enhanced by the warmth of nutmeg and cinnamon, which add a cozy spiciness, while spicy carnation and orris bring a soft, velvety touch that rounds out this enchanting bouquet. The combination of floral and spice creates an alluring complexity that captivates the senses, inviting those nearby to draw closer.

The base notes of Lady Madeleine are a luxurious blend of Bourbon vetiver, labdanum, opoponax, cedar, Mexican vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, Venezuelan tonka bean, Tibetan civet, Indian musk, musk ambrette, frankincense, Virginian cedar, and Siamese benzoin. Here, Bourbon vetiver provides an earthy, woody foundation that is both grounding and sophisticated. The resinous sweetness of labdanum and opoponax contributes a warm, balsamic quality, while cedar enhances the woody richness. Mexican vanilla adds a luscious sweetness that pairs beautifully with Mysore sandalwood, which is renowned for its creamy, soft woodiness. The smooth, nutty quality of Venezuelan tonka bean enriches the base with a hint of warmth, and the animalic richness of Tibetan civet and Indian musk adds an intimate sensuality. The subtle warmth of musk ambrette complements the base notes, while the exotic touch of frankincense and the grounding qualities of Virginian cedar and Siamese benzoin provide a complex and evocative finish.

Lady Madeleine encapsulates a delicate interplay between sweet and spicy, floral and woody notes, resulting in a captivating fragrance that feels both inviting and intriguing. This scent perfectly reflects the sophistication of its time, making it a timeless choice for those who appreciate a fragrance with depth and complexity. It evokes the essence of a charming and enigmatic woman, leaving a lasting impression that invites curiosity and admiration.

Sous le Gui:

Sous le Gui (1925) by Jean de Parys is a captivating fragrance that embodies the enchanting spirit of an oriental bouquet, skillfully capturing the essence of the holiday season. Launched in 1925, this scent is a tribute to Caron's Nuit de Noël, evoking a sense of mystery and allure with its sparkling yet haunting character. The name Sous le Gui translates to "Under the Mistletoe," conjuring images of festive gatherings and intimate moments, where the air is filled with the tantalizing promise of romance.

At the top, the fragrance opens with a vibrant blend of lemon, geranium, anise, violet leaves, and aldehydes. The bright lemon brings a refreshing citrus burst, illuminating the fragrance with its zesty brightness. This is beautifully complemented by the green, slightly rosy notes of geranium, which adds depth and complexity. The intriguing anise introduces a sweet, herbal quality, reminiscent of licorice, while violet leaves contribute a fresh, green, and slightly powdery aroma that enhances the fragrance’s elegant profile. The inclusion of aldehydes, known for their ability to impart a sparkling effect, elevates the opening, creating a lively and effervescent introduction that draws the wearer in.

Transitioning into the heart of Sous le Gui, the composition unveils a lush bouquet of florals: carnation, violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, rose absolute, lily of the valley, orris, and tuberose. This floral medley is rich and opulent, with carnation contributing a spicy, clove-like aroma that adds warmth and depth. The powdery sweetness of violet complements the creamy floral notes of jasmine and ylang-ylang, both of which are renowned for their intoxicating and sensual qualities. Rose absolute introduces a rich, deep rose scent, while the delicate lily of the valley adds a fresh, green floral nuance. The presence of orris, with its soft, powdery character, enhances the overall richness, and tuberose brings a heady, sultry note that envelops the wearer in an aura of sophistication.

The base of Sous le Gui is a sumptuous blend of myrrh, benzoin, frankincense, vanilla, oakmoss, civet, ambergris, musk, sandalwood, vetiver, leather, and cedar. Here, the warm and resinous notes of myrrh and frankincense evoke a sense of ancient rituals and mystique, while benzoin adds a sweet, balsamic richness that enhances the fragrance’s depth. The creamy sweetness of vanilla intertwines beautifully with the earthy oakmoss, creating a rich, velvety texture. The animalic qualities of civet and ambergris impart a luxurious and sensual undertone, while musk adds an intimate warmth. The blend is further enriched by the woodiness of sandalwood, the fresh, grassy notes of vetiver, and the rugged sophistication of leather and cedar, which provide a robust foundation.

Together, these elements create a hauntingly beautiful fragrance that evokes the feeling of a magical evening under the mistletoe. Sous le Gui captures the essence of holiday gatherings filled with warmth, love, and allure, making it an enchanting choice for those seeking a scent that embodies both sparkle and depth. This sophisticated oriental bouquet invites the wearer to revel in its complexity, leaving a lasting impression that is both memorable and inviting, echoing the enchanting moments shared during the festive season.

Arome de Fleurs :

Arôme de Fleurs (1925) by Jean de Parys is a beautifully composed fragrance that encapsulates the essence of a lush floral garden in full bloom. Launched in 1925, the name Arôme de Fleurs translates to "Aroma of Flowers," perfectly capturing the inviting and vibrant character of this scent. This fragrance invites wearers to experience a delightful bouquet that is both fresh and richly layered, embodying the artistry of perfumery at the time.

At the top, Arôme de Fleurs opens with a bright and zesty combination of bergamot, neroli, lemon, and verbena. The bergamot, a fragrant citrus fruit, offers a sparkling, slightly floral citrus scent that awakens the senses. Paired with neroli, which is derived from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree, the top notes exude a sweet and refreshing aroma that brings a sunny, uplifting quality. The addition of lemon introduces a sharp, tangy brightness, while verbena adds a green, herbaceous note with hints of lemon and mint, providing an invigorating and refreshing prelude to the floral heart.

As the fragrance develops, the heart reveals an exquisite medley of florals, featuring jasmine, tuberose, rose, violet, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, and heliotrope. Each of these blossoms contributes its unique character to the composition. The jasmine and tuberose bring an opulent, creamy richness that is both seductive and intoxicating, while the classic rose adds a timeless romantic quality. Violet offers a soft, powdery sweetness that beautifully complements the other florals. The exotic ylang-ylang contributes a sweet, slightly fruity and floral aroma, enhancing the sensuality of the heart. The orange blossom introduces a fresh, bright floral note, reminiscent of sun-kissed gardens, while heliotrope adds a sweet, almond-like scent that deepens the bouquet with a comforting, nostalgic warmth.

The base of Arôme de Fleurs rounds out the fragrance with a luxurious combination of musk, benzoin, tonka bean, and civet. The presence of musk adds an intimate, warm, and sensual quality, creating a soft and enveloping aura. Benzoin, with its rich, balsamic sweetness, harmonizes beautifully with the other notes, providing a smooth and creamy texture. The tonka bean, known for its sweet, vanilla-like aroma, enhances the overall warmth and richness, while civet contributes an animalic depth that adds intrigue and sophistication to the composition.

Together, these elements form a harmonious and alluring fragrance that evokes the feeling of strolling through a blooming garden on a sunlit day. Arôme de Fleurs embodies the beauty and diversity of nature's blossoms, inviting wearers to indulge in the elegance and complexity of its floral symphony. It is a scent that celebrates the romance of flowers, leaving a lasting impression of freshness and warmth that lingers beautifully, perfect for any occasion.

Ambré de Patna:

Ambré de Patna (1925) by Jean de Parys is an evocative fragrance that transports the wearer to the enchanting city of Patna, India, known for its rich cultural heritage and aromatic spices. The name Ambré de Patna, translating to "Amber of Patna," suggests a luxurious scent that embodies the mystique and allure of the East, particularly reminiscent of exotic incense. Launched in 1925, this fragrance captures the essence of an opulent world filled with warm, sensual notes that create an atmosphere of intrigue and depth.

The top notes open with a delicate bouquet featuring orange blossom, reseda, cinnamon, and cascarilla. The orange blossom, known for its sweet, floral aroma, offers a fresh and inviting introduction that captivates the senses. The addition of reseda, a fragrant herb, contributes a green, slightly honeyed note that softens the brightness of the citrus. Cinnamon, with its warm, spicy sweetness, infuses the top with a hint of warmth, while cascarilla, a type of aromatic bark, brings a slightly bitter and spicy nuance that evokes the exotic feel of the fragrance.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a rich tapestry of florals and resins, featuring carnation, rose, orris, jasmine, geranium, myrrh, olibanum, frankincense, and opoponax. The carnation introduces a spicy, clove-like scent, lending a sense of depth to the floral heart. The timeless rose adds its classic, romantic character, while orris, with its powdery, violet-like scent, provides a luxurious texture. The inclusion of jasmine adds an intoxicating sweetness, and geranium offers a fresh, green floral aspect that balances the other notes. The presence of myrrh, olibanum (also known as frankincense), and opoponax introduces a resinous, slightly sweet and balsamic quality, evoking the sacred and mystical atmosphere often associated with ancient rituals and incense burning.

The base notes of Ambré de Patna are a sumptuous blend of ambergris, civet, musk, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, styrax, patchouli, ambrette, vetiver, tolu balsam, and rockrose. Ambergris, a rare and precious substance, provides a warm, marine sweetness that is both alluring and complex. Civet and musk contribute animalic depth and sensuality, enhancing the overall warmth of the fragrance. The comforting sweetness of vanilla and tonka bean brings a rich creaminess, while benzoin and styrax offer a balsamic sweetness that rounds out the composition. The earthy notes of patchouli and vetiver add grounding elements, providing a robust, woody character. The tolu balsam, with its sweet, slightly spicy aroma, and rockrose, which imparts a resinous, floral quality, further enrich the base, creating an unforgettable and harmonious finish.

In summary, Ambré de Patna is an olfactory journey that encapsulates the warmth and mystery of Eastern fragrances. Its complex layering of floral, spicy, and resinous notes creates a rich tapestry that envelops the wearer in an aura of sophistication and allure. This captivating fragrance beautifully marries the essence of its namesake city with the luxury of a well-crafted perfume, making it a timeless choice for those seeking an exotic and enchanting scent.

Bouquet de Fleurs:

Bouquet de Fleurs (1925), inspired by Houbigant's Quelques Fleurs, is a floral masterpiece that captures the essence of a lush garden in full bloom. The name translates to "Bouquet of Flowers," and it evokes the vibrant and complex aromas of a floral arrangement, presenting a delicate yet multifaceted scent experience. Launched in 1925, this fragrance is a celebration of nature's floral bounty, artfully blended to create a symphony of fragrances that delight the senses.

At the top, the fragrance opens with sparkling aldehydes and refreshing notes of violet leaves, acacia, bergamot, and orange blossom. The aldehydes, known for their crisp and clean characteristics, provide a bright and effervescent quality that uplifts the initial impression. Violet leaves introduce a green, slightly sweet aroma that balances the freshness of the citrusy bergamot and the sweet, floral essence of orange blossom. The hyacinth, orchid, and honey add layers of sweetness and softness, contributing to the lushness of the bouquet. The subtle herbal notes from tarragon and verbena, alongside the bright citrus of lemon and aromatic sage, create an engaging and inviting opening, while marjoram adds a hint of warmth.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals an exquisite blend of lavender, heliotrope, lilac, genet, jasmine, lily, rose, carnation, ylang ylang, orris, violet, lily of the valley, clove, tuberose, and reseda. This floral heart is the essence of Bouquet de Fleurs, with each flower playing a unique role. The lavender contributes a calming, herbal freshness, while the creamy, sweet notes of heliotrope complement the vivid lilac and romantic jasmine. The rose adds its iconic fragrance, embodying romance and femininity. The carnation offers a spicy, clove-like aroma, enriching the heart with warmth. Exotic ylang ylang introduces a rich, floral sweetness, while orris brings a soft, powdery element. The combination of violet and lily of the valley provides a green, delicate sweetness, further enhanced by the lush, full-bodied scents of tuberose and reseda.

The base notes anchor the fragrance with a blend of tonka bean, ambergris, oakmoss, musk, civet, vanilla, and sandalwood. The tonka bean contributes a sweet, warm profile reminiscent of vanilla and almond, while ambergris offers a rich, oceanic depth. The earthy and woody qualities of oakmoss provide a natural foundation, complemented by the sensual warmth of musk and the animalic richness of civet. The sweetness of vanilla adds a comforting touch, while sandalwood imparts a creamy, soft woodiness, rounding out the composition with a sense of sophistication.

In conclusion, Bouquet de Fleurs is a celebration of the floral spectrum, intricately crafted to evoke the beauty of a garden in bloom. Its complex layering of top, middle, and base notes creates an engaging and harmonious experience that captures the essence of nature's most beloved flowers. This fragrance is perfect for those who appreciate the elegance of floral compositions and desire to embody the charm and grace of a blooming bouquet.

 

Zulena:

Launched in 1925, Zulena draws its name from the enchanting figure of Zulena, the Ruler of the Fairies, evoking a sense of magic and ethereality. This fragrance is described as reminiscent of a gentle breath of spring, capturing the essence of renewal and blooming beauty.

At the outset, Zulena presents a vibrant bouquet of top notes that includes lemon, bergamot, cassie (often associated with the sweet scent of mimosa), orange blossom, and geranium. These elements create a fresh and uplifting introduction, brightened by the zesty qualities of lemon and bergamot, which evoke sunny days and blossoming gardens. The floral undertones of orange blossom and geranium add a lush, green dimension, enhancing the overall feeling of springtime vitality.

The heart of the fragrance is an opulent blend of jasmine, lilac, lily of the valley, rose, and violet. These middle notes contribute a rich, floral tapestry that is both sophisticated and romantic. Jasmine brings a sweet and intoxicating aroma, while lilac and lily of the valley offer delicate and fresh nuances. The inclusion of rose adds a classic floral depth, evoking images of blooming gardens, while violet introduces a soft, powdery sweetness that enhances the fragrance's fairy-tale allure.

As the fragrance unfolds, it settles into a warm and comforting base, featuring ambergris, musk, and tonka bean. Ambergris lends an oceanic and animalic richness, providing a sensual depth that lingers on the skin. Musk enhances this warmth, imparting a soft, inviting quality, while tonka bean contributes a sweet, slightly spicy aroma reminiscent of vanilla and almonds, rounding out the scent with a creamy, comforting finish.

In essence, Zulena encapsulates the beauty of spring with its vibrant and multifaceted scent profile, celebrating the enchanting essence of nature and the whimsical spirit of its namesake, the Fairy Queen.