Vacarme by Madeleine de Rauch c1966

Launched in 1966, Vacarme by Madeleine de Rauch made an instant impression, with its presence in the U.S. by 1967. The perfume’s name, sometimes mistakenly spelled as Macrame online, carries a bold and evocative message. Madeleine de Rauch, the visionary behind the fragrance, was a renowned French couturière-turned-perfumer, celebrated for her sophisticated and daring approach to both fashion and fragrance. Known for creating scents that embodied powerful femininity, de Rauch was unafraid to challenge conventions, and the name Vacarme encapsulates this rebellious spirit.

The word Vacarme comes from the French language, meaning "uproar" or "commotion," and is pronounced as "vah-karhm" (with a soft, rolling 'r'). It is a word that conveys an atmosphere of vibrant noise, liveliness, and intensity, instantly evoking a scene charged with energy. Choosing such a name for a perfume reflects the audacious and confident character that de Rauch wanted to communicate. In a time when women were beginning to break societal boundaries and express their individuality more boldly, a fragrance named Vacarme would have resonated as a symbol of liberation. It suggests not a quiet, demure fragrance but one that demands attention, urging women to embrace their presence and voice in the world.

Vacarme would have evoked vivid images and emotions—sultry evenings filled with an air of mystery, the rustle of luxurious fabrics, and the intoxicating allure of an untamed, feline sensuality. The word itself stirs thoughts of chaotic passion and powerful femininity, an unstoppable force that could command a room. Women of the 1960s, amid the rise of feminism and social change, might have found Vacarme to be a fragrance that mirrored their desire for self-expression and boldness. Wearing a perfume with such a name would have felt like a declaration of independence, a rejection of societal expectations for quiet modesty.

The scent itself is classified as a warm green woody floral, with pronounced notes of jasmine and rose, ingredients often associated with deep sensuality and femininity. The jasmine brings an exotic, narcotic sweetness, while the rose adds a rich, velvety floralcy that evokes passion. Together, these two flowers form the heart of a fragrance that is both sultry and sophisticated, while the green and woody accords ground it with a sense of natural vitality and strength. Vacarme embodies the idea of a woman who is unapologetically herself—wild, strong, and undeniably sensual.

When imagining how Vacarme translates into scent, the fragrance can be interpreted as an olfactory journey through lush, verdant woods at twilight. The green, woody facets may invoke a sense of raw nature—a cool, forested path shaded by trees with fragrant flowers in bloom. This is contrasted with the heat and intensity of jasmine and rose, which bloom and swirl around the wearer like an intoxicating embrace. It is a "sultry" scent, rich and warm, evoking feelings of warmth against bare skin, and the contrast between day’s end and the cool of dawn.

Launched during a time of great social and cultural change, Vacarme stood out in the context of other fragrances of the 1960s. Many perfumes of the era, especially in France, embraced aldehydic florals or lighter, powdery scents, whereas Vacarme boldly diverged with its powerful, green, and sensual profile. It leaned toward the emerging trend of more complex, layered compositions with rich florals and deeper woody bases, appealing to women who sought something daring and sensual rather than simply pretty or refined. In a market that still leaned heavily on traditional femininity in fragrance, Vacarme would have been unique for its unapologetic strength, aligning itself with the evolving role of women in society—feline, powerful, and free-spirited.

In the marketing of the perfume, Vacarme was described as "a wild new fragrance that unleashes the femininity of the woman who dares to be feline." This messaging aligns perfectly with the name and scent itself, suggesting the raw, untamed side of femininity, one that isn't constrained by societal norms. The reference to "intoxicating twilights and cool new dawns" gives the impression of a scent that bridges the gap between night and day, between passion and calm, and the "hint of jungle power" connects the fragrance to nature, wilderness, and raw sensuality. For women of the 1960s, Vacarme would have embodied the shifting ideals of the time—a scent for the daring and independent woman, ready to embrace her femininity on her own terms.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a warm green woody floral fragrance for women with a pronounced jasmine and rose facet. It was said to be a "sultry scent."

• Top notes: aldehydes, green notes, bergamot, hyacinth, galbanum, violet
• Middle notes: jasmine, honeysuckle, Oriental rose, lily of the valley, tuberose, Florentine iris
• Base notes: labdanum, musk, sandalwood, cedar, tonka bean, vanilla, patchouli, oakmoss, ambergris, civet, vetiver

Scent Profile:

As I inhale Vacarme, the first impression is a rush of crispness and energy. The top notes awaken the senses with aldehydes—bright, airy, almost effervescent, like the first inhale of cold morning air. They impart a sharpness that feels both clean and refined, lifting the entire fragrance. Then, the green notes unfold, delivering a sense of fresh leaves and crushed stems, vibrant with life and lushness. This greenness is invigorated by the tangy burst of bergamot, a citrus note that feels zesty and sparkling, cutting through the greenery with its sharp, citrusy brightness. 

Hyacinth soon follows, adding a cool floral tone, rich and almost watery, like spring blossoms kissed by dew. Galbanum's deep, resinous green adds an earthy, almost balsamic edge, grounding the fresh notes and providing a hint of mystery. Finally, violet emerges, powdery yet sweet, lending a soft floral grace that contrasts the sharper green aspects, like a delicate bloom peeking through dense foliage.

As the fragrance settles, the heart of Vacarme unfurls with a bouquet of floral opulence. Jasmine, with its intoxicating, almost narcotic sweetness, takes center stage. It is rich, heady, and sensual, evoking warm, sultry nights and the feeling of warm skin. This is a jasmine that feels both floral and animalic, lush and enveloping. Honeysuckle adds a touch of sweetness, but it is lighter and airier, with a sunny, golden quality that contrasts with jasmine’s deeper intensity. 

Oriental rose brings a velvety, luxurious richness, as if the petals are imbued with a warmth that feels timeless and classic. There’s a soft spiciness to the rose, making it feel more exotic than the usual garden bloom, giving the scent depth and character. Lily of the valley adds an innocent, white floral touch, delicate and fresh, yet slightly green, offering a whisper of spring. 

Tuberose enters with its creamy, almost buttery floral scent, rich and voluptuous, balancing the composition with its sultry sweetness. Florentine iris rounds out the heart with a powdery elegance, adding a touch of cool, stony refinement that contrasts beautifully with the warmth of the other florals, like a soft veil over the deeper intensity beneath.

As the scent dries down, Vacarme reveals its rich and sensuous base. Labdanum introduces a deep, resinous warmth, with a slightly leathery, amber-like quality, making the fragrance feel warm and enveloping. Musk adds a soft, animalic sensuality that is both skin-like and intimate, blending effortlessly with the resinous labdanum to create a sensual, lingering warmth. 

Sandalwood contributes a creamy, smooth woodiness, rich and soft, like polished wood warmed by sunlight. It adds a luxurious texture to the base, calming the intensity of the florals. Cedar, on the other hand, is drier and sharper, adding a more rugged, earthy woodiness that contrasts with the creamy sandalwood. The interplay between these two woods gives the fragrance a complex, multifaceted depth.

Tonka bean lends a sweet, warm touch, with its hints of vanilla and almond, blending with the balsamic richness of labdanum to create a cozy, comforting undertone. Vanilla adds a creamy sweetness, smooth and soft, wrapping the entire composition in a comforting warmth. Patchouli provides an earthy, slightly spicy depth, adding a hint of mystery and grounding the floral elements with its rich, soil-like aroma. 

Oakmoss brings an almost damp, forest-floor quality, slightly mossy and green, connecting the fragrance back to nature and the outdoors. Ambergris adds a subtle, oceanic warmth, with its salty, sweet nuances that feel both animalic and fresh. Civet adds an animalic touch, a deep, musky note that feels raw and untamed, enhancing the sensuality of the base. Finally, vetiver brings a smoky, grassy dryness that balances the sweetness of the vanilla and tonka bean, leaving a lingering, earthy trail that feels both grounded and sophisticated.

Together, the ingredients of Vacarme paint a vivid portrait of a lush, sensual fragrance that is at once bold, warm, and deeply feminine. The pronounced jasmine and rose facets bring a sultry, floral richness, while the green, woody, and oriental notes add depth and complexity, making this scent both classic and daring. It’s a fragrance that evokes images of moonlit gardens, cool dawns after heated nights, and the untamed power of femininity.

Product Line:

By the early 1970s, Vacarme de Rauch was made available in a variety of concentrations, offering women the opportunity to experience the fragrance in different forms, each suited to varying levels of intensity and longevity. The Parfum, the most concentrated form, was offered in elegant splash bottles and a purse atomizer, perfect for women who wanted the full potency of Vacarme with just a small application. 

The Parfum was available in several sizes, starting from the highly portable 1/4 oz purse atomizer spray, which could easily fit into a handbag for a touch of luxury on the go. The 1/4 oz splash bottle, also compact, provided a more tactile experience for those who preferred to dab the fragrance onto their pulse points. For a slightly larger indulgence, the 1/2 oz, 1 oz, and 2 oz splash bottles offered a more generous application, while the 4 oz splash, an impressive size for a Parfum, catered to the true devotee of Vacarme, allowing for a more lavish and prolonged experience of the fragrance.


In its Eau de Toilette form, Vacarme became more versatile, perfect for daytime wear or those who preferred a lighter, more refreshing version of the scent. The Eau de Toilette was available in splash bottles ranging from 1 oz to a luxurious 16 oz, allowing women to choose the size that best suited their needs. The smaller 1 oz and 2 oz bottles were ideal for travel or casual use, while the larger 4 oz, 8 oz, and especially the generous 16 oz splash bottles were designed for those who wished to indulge in the fragrance more liberally. These larger sizes allowed women to embrace the perfume fully, applying it generously across the skin, perhaps even using it as part of their post-bathing ritual to feel enveloped in its warm, green, woody floral embrace.


The Eau de Parfum concentration, which strikes a balance between the intensity of the Parfum and the lighter Eau de Toilette, was available in a 2 oz Spray Mist. This format offered a convenient and elegant way to apply the fragrance with ease, delivering a fine, even mist that would settle gently on the skin, providing a longer-lasting scent experience than the Eau de Toilette but with more subtlety than the full-bodied Parfum. This concentration was ideal for women who desired a lingering presence of Vacarme throughout the day, but with a touch of softness and restraint.


Each concentration offered a different interpretation of Vacarme, allowing women to customize their fragrance experience based on occasion, mood, or personal preference. Whether in the boldness of the Parfum or the freshness of the Eau de Toilette, Vacarme remained a captivating and evocative scent, rich with its sultry jasmine and rose, making it a signature fragrance for those who dared to wear it.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued sometime in the 1980s.