Sleeping by Schiaparelli c1938

In 1938, the launch of the perfume "Sleeping" by Schiaparelli occurred amidst a period marked by both artistic innovation and looming geopolitical tensions. Elsa Schiaparelli, the fashion designer behind the fragrance, was renowned for her avant-garde approach to fashion, often blending surrealism with high fashion. This era saw a burgeoning interest in abstract and dreamlike concepts, mirroring the escapism sought by many in the face of economic hardship and impending global conflict.

Schiaparelli's connection to perfumes was deeply intertwined with her fashion philosophy. She viewed fragrance as an extension of her artistic vision, using it to complement and enhance the narrative of her clothing collections. Her perfumes were not merely scents, but stories told through olfactory notes, evoking emotions and imagery akin to her fashion designs.

The name "Sleeping" for a perfume chosen by Schiaparelli carries layers of symbolism. "Sleeping" suggests a state of tranquility, serenity, and perhaps even latent potential waiting to be awakened. In the context of 1938, amidst growing political tensions and uncertainty, a perfume named "Sleeping" could be seen as an invitation to escape into dreams and fantasy, offering a temporary respite from the harsh realities of the world.

Those who related to a perfume named "Sleeping" might be drawn to its promise of tranquility and escape. They might respond to its fragrance as a soothing balm for the mind, evoking images of serene landscapes, gentle breezes, or the softness of a quiet morning. The scent itself would likely embody floral and powdery notes, invoking a sense of comfort and nostalgia.

The word "Sleeping" evokes a range of feelings and images — from peaceful slumber to the hushed stillness of a moonlit night. It suggests a sense of calmness and relaxation, inviting the wearer and those around them to experience a moment of quiet introspection. In the context of Schiaparelli's avant-garde approach, "Sleeping" as a perfume name could also hint at deeper meanings or artistic interpretations, encouraging the wearer to explore their dreams and imagination.

Thus, "Sleeping" by Schiaparelli in 1938 would likely have resonated with those seeking refuge from the tumultuous world outside, offering them a fragrant escape into a realm of tranquility and beauty.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a heavy, narcotic soft, green oriental perfume for women with spicy carnation over woodsy-mossy notes on sugary, sweet vanilla.

• Top notes: mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, Persian galbanum
• Middle notes: Grasse rose, Egyptian jasmine, magnolia, Madagascar ylang ylang, French carnation, Tunisian orange blossom
• Base notes: Haitian vetiver, hévéa wood, Chinese patchouli, Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss, ambergris, Mexican vanilla

  

Scent Story:

 

In the heart of Paris, the ambiance of Schiaparelli's salon was one of decadence and intrigue, heightened by the unveiling of her latest creation, Sleeping. Fresh carnations and magnolias perfumed the air, their delicate blooms mingling with the anticipation of guests dressed in chic cocktail attire. The centerpiece of the room was a display of sensuous lingerie, panties, and peignoirs, each piece a testament to Schiaparelli's mastery of allure and intimacy.

As I stepped into the salon, my senses were immediately engaged. The air carried the vibrant notes of mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, and Persian galbanum, creating an uplifting yet soothing atmosphere. The scent enveloped me, hinting at the mysteries and indulgences yet to be revealed.

Mme. Schiaparelli herself, radiant in her avant-garde elegance, greeted her guests with a knowing smile. She spoke passionately of Sleeping, her voice weaving through the floral complexity of Grasse rose, Egyptian jasmine, magnolia, Madagascar ylang ylang, and French carnation. Each flower, carefully selected from around the world, contributed its essence to the perfume's opulent bouquet.

Throughout her narrative, Mme. Schiaparelli emphasized the rarity and costliness of the raw materials, each sourced with meticulous care to ensure Sleeping's uniqueness and allure. Her words painted a picture of exotic locales and the painstaking craftsmanship that went into every aspect of the fragrance's creation.

A sip of the bespoke cocktail provided a taste of the perfume's journey. Tunisian orange blossom added a sweet, floral accent, while base notes of Haitian vetiver, hévéa wood, Chinese patchouli, Tibetan musk, Mysore sandalwood, Yugoslavian oakmoss, ambergris, and Mexican vanilla created a deep, intoxicating finish.

In the midst of the soirée, the attention turned to the perfume's stunning presentation. The bottle, a masterpiece in itself, took the form of a candlestick, with a flame serving as the stopper—a symbol of passion and intimacy. The box, crafted in "Sleeping Blue" with intricate gold detailing, resembled a cone-shaped snuffer, its handle evoking a sense of elegance and refinement.

As the evening unfolded, the salon resonated with laughter, whispered conversations, and the gentle rustling of fabric. Guests explored the tactile pleasures of the lingerie and delicate petals, each touch enhancing their appreciation for the sensory journey that Sleeping encapsulated.

In Schiaparelli's salon, amidst the floral splendor and the promise of intimate evenings, Sleeping emerged not just as a fragrance, but as a celebration of sensuality and sophistication—a timeless invitation to embrace the art of indulgence and allure.

Bottles:

In 1940, Schiaparelli unveiled her latest olfactory creation, "Sleeping," presented in a stunning four-ounce flacon crafted from Baccarat crystal. The bottle's design was a marvel, encapsulating the fragrance within a candlestick-shaped container. Inspired by Rene Magritte's surrealist artwork, "The Key of Dreams," Fernand Guerycolas, the designer behind this masterpiece, ensured every detail exuded elegance and whimsy.

The crystal bottle itself was a testament to luxury, its clarity accentuating the precious contents within. Atop the bottle sat a stopper resembling a flame, colored to evoke the warm hues of fire. This intricate design was not just a vessel but a work of art, reflecting the avant-garde spirit synonymous with Schiaparelli's fashion house.

Accompanying this exquisite flacon was a presentation box designed in the likeness of a cone-shaped snuffer, complete with a handle, all bathed in "Sleeping Blue" with accents of gold. This unique shade, introduced in Schiaparelli's recent couture collection, shimmered with luminosity, echoing the allure of the fragrance it housed.

Guerycolas, renowned for his exceptional bottle designs, had also lent his talent to other esteemed perfume houses like Lanselle and Christian Dior. His collaboration with Schiaparelli on "Sleeping" not only encapsulated the essence of the perfume but also elevated it to an object of desire and admiration, embodying the intersection of art and fragrance in a truly captivating manner.

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1940:

"SCHIAPARELLI Schiaparelli's newest perfume is "Sleeping." The four-ounce flacon is in Baccarat crystal, and the stopper is the flame and is flame color. The box is in the form of a cone-shaped snuffer with a handle in "Sleeping Blue" and gold. This new blue which the designer featured in her recent collection, is bright and luminous."

The candle stick flacon was available in various sizes, including miniature:

• 1/2 dram sized mini bottle with glass flame stopper stands 2.5" tall.
• 1 dram sized mini bottle with plastic screw cap stands 3" tall. (retailed for $2.50 in 1941)
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 4" tall. (retailed for $9.00 in 1949)
• 0.87 oz (26ml) bottle stands 5.5" tall. (retailed for $15 in 1941)
• 1 oz bottle stands 6.25" tall.
• 2 oz bottle stands (retailed for $32.50 in 1941)
• 4 oz bottle stands 8.25" tall (originally retailed for $55 in 1940)

Fashions of the Hour, 1940:

"Schiaparelli's Sleeping perfume — in a glass bottle shaped like a flame-tipped candle is an enchanting scent for candelabra hours. About 1/4 ounces in a Sleeping Blue lighted-candle box. $30."

Department Store Economist, Volume 13, 1950:

"In addition, Sleeping perfume will appear in a new 1/2 oz size to retail at $8. The same candlestick bottle will be used with the blue snuffer cover."

 

Eau de Cologne Candle Flacons:

• 2 oz bottle stands 6.5" tall
• 4 os bottle stands 8" tall.

Baccarat Cube Stoppered Bottles:

First presented in 1938 and used throughout the 1940s, this clear glass bottle was created to hold the pure parfum, and was not only used for Shocking, but served as a standard bottle for several other Schiaparelli perfumes such as So Sweet, Sleeping, Salut, Le Roy Soleil, Zut, etc. I believe that this sober bottle style was used in response to World War II restrictions on importations, especially glass bottles and supplies from Czechoslovakia and Italy.

This bottle is a domestic French product, Baccarat model #788, manufactured for Schiaparelli only. It is a tall, upright rectangular shape and features a faceted glass cube as the stopper. The smallest size features a stopper that has an attached dauber. The base of the bottle is usually molded with "Schiaparelli" and "French Bottle". 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

"Sleeping," a fragrance by Schiaparelli, saw its production discontinued at an unspecified date, yet remarkably, it remained available for purchase as late as 1963. The iconic Baccarat crystal candlestick flacons that housed the perfume have since become coveted collector's items. These exquisite vessels, once repositories for a scent that blended luxury with artistry, now stand as prized relics of perfume history. Their enduring allure attests not only to the craftsmanship of their designer, Fernand Guerycolas, but also to the enduring appeal of Schiaparelli's innovative vision in the realm of fragrance.