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Tuesday, September 8, 2015

Votre Main by Jean Desprez c1939

In 1939, the year "Votre Main" was launched by Jean Desprez, Europe and the world were on the brink of World War II. The late 1930s marked a tumultuous period of rising tensions, political upheaval, and economic instability. France, where Jean Desprez was based, was particularly affected by the looming threat of war, which would soon engulf the continent. It was a time of uncertainty and change, with cultural and societal norms undergoing shifts amidst the backdrop of global conflict.

Jean Desprez chose the name "Votre Main" for their perfume, a phrase that translates to "your hand" in French. This name carries a sense of intimacy and personal connection. In French, the word "main" not only refers to the physical hand but also metaphorically represents touch, connection, and personal expression. By naming the perfume "Votre Main," Desprez aimed to evoke a sense of personal closeness and elegance, suggesting a fragrance that could become intimately associated with its wearer.

"Votre Main" would have appealed to individuals who appreciated sophistication, refinement, and the artistry of fragrance. In the context of 1939, amidst the uncertainties of war, a perfume named "Votre Main" would likely have resonated with those seeking moments of beauty and luxury amid challenging times. It would have been seen as a personal indulgence, a small but meaningful luxury that offered a sense of comfort and elegance amidst the turmoil of the era.

The name "Votre Main" evokes images of elegance, grace, and the tactile sensation of touch. It suggests something precious and personal, akin to the sensation of holding someone's hand or the softness of a caress. In the context of fragrance, "Votre Main" implies a scent that is meant to be intimately experienced, perhaps evoking floral, powdery, or musky notes that are timeless and comforting.

Overall, "Votre Main" by Jean Desprez, launched in 1939, would have been perceived as a luxurious and intimate fragrance, offering a moment of respite and elegance during a period of historical turbulence. Its name encapsulates the essence of personal connection and refinement, appealing to those who sought beauty and comfort in the midst of uncertainty.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It was described as a spicy floral woody fragrance for women. It was described in old ads as "subtle, fruity".
  • Top notes: orange, plum, citrus zest, spices, honey, heliotrope, bergamot
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, carnation, ylang ylang, gardenia, orange blossom, violet
  • Base notes: oakmoss, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, musk, labdanum, vetiver, benzoin

L'Amour de l'art, 1950: 

"Votre Main, one hand immobilized on the clavier while the other hands you a rose. This is how Leon Leyritz, confidant and friend of Ravel, composed the bottle. It reinforces a fruity wood mixture, orange, plum and zest, two extreme notes smoothed with boldness by oak moss."


Recently, I gratefully received a sample of the vintage extrait of Votre Main from my friend Jana at the Fragrance Vault along with some other vintage Jean Desprez perfumes so I am able to describe to you what this very rare perfume smells like. 

I applied a few drops of the golden yellow extrait to the back of my hand, and at first sniff, Votre Main had a bright, spicy opening punctuated with candied citrus zests of bergamot and orange layered over glaceed plums dripping with honey. The opulent floral heart forms a luscious bouquet of vivid carnation, heady orange blossom, jasmine, narcotic gardenia and attar of rose. Scattered among the petals are rich spices brought back from the Maritime Silk Road: cinnamon bark, coriander, pepper, nutmeg and pungent clove. The sweet theme continues with a nosegay of heliotrope, fresh violet and tropical ylang ylang. The oriental base features the green freshness of oakmoss, balsamic notes of vanilla, benzoin and labdanum. The dulcet tones are further employed by the generous dose of costly Mysore sandalwood. The syrupiness is tempered with the bittersweet notes of vetiver and a faint hint of earthy patchouli. Lastly, sensuous musk and ambergris tinctures make their entrance, still accented with the exotic hot spices and sweetness.

This is an absolutely, fantastic vintage fragrance, easily moved into my top ten of all time, I cannot stop smelling the back of my hand, three hours later, I can still smell the smoldering spices. Move over Samsara, Votre Main might just have you beat with an overdose of Mysore sandalwood. This is an extremely hard to find perfume, but Jana may just have a bottle of this rare gem waiting for you!


Scent Story:


In the heart of Paris, amidst the bustling streets and the whispers of history, there lived a woman whose elegance transcended time. Her name was Marguerite, known not only for her virtuoso performances on the grand piano but also for the delicate grace of her hands. Every evening, as the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm glow over the Seine, Marguerite would retire to her salon, where the melodies of Chopin and Debussy would echo softly through the air.

As I entered her salon one crisp autumn evening, the first thing that enveloped my senses was the lingering fragrance of "Votre Main" by Jean Desprez. It greeted me with a subtle yet alluring blend of spices and citrus zest, intertwined with the sweetness of honey and the warmth of heliotrope. The top notes danced delicately in the air, like the first chords of a sonata, setting the stage for what was to come.

Marguerite, her graceful hands adorned with pearls on her fingers, beckoned me closer. As she played, the fragrance evolved, revealing its heart notes with each passing moment. The essence of rose and jasmine bloomed alongside carnation and ylang ylang, their floral symphony harmonizing with hints of gardenia, orange blossom, and the ethereal touch of violet. Each note carried a story, weaving through the air like a melody that captured the essence of Marguerite's artistry.

Amidst the music and fragrance, the room seemed to come alive with a subtle fruitiness, a nod to the plum and orange that added depth to the composition. It was as if each note, carefully selected by Desprez, echoed the richness of Marguerite's performances, filling the room with layers of emotion and sophistication.

As the evening progressed, the fragrance settled into its base notes, grounding the composition with the timeless elegance of oakmoss and sandalwood. Amber and vanilla whispered tales of warmth and comfort, while musk and labdanum added a touch of sensuality, lingering on the skin like a soft caress. Vetiver and benzoin provided a final flourish, their earthy tones intertwining with the lingering echoes of Marguerite's final notes.

In Marguerite's salon, surrounded by the fragrance of "Votre Main," I experienced a symphony of senses—a visual feast of elegance, the melodic strains of piano music, the delicate scent of spices and florals, the subtle taste of honeyed sweetness, and the soft touch of the evening breeze through an open window. It was a moment suspended in time, where art and fragrance intertwined, leaving an indelible impression of beauty and grace that lingered long after the music faded into the Parisian night.



Bottles:


The fragrance "Votre Main" by Jean Desprez, launched in 1939, was not only celebrated for its exquisite scent but also for its stunning presentation in a delicate Sevres porcelain bottle. Designed by the talented sculptor Leon Leyritz, the bottle itself was a work of art, inspired by the graceful hand of Desprez's grandmother, a renowned pianist. This personal touch added a layer of sentimental value to the design, reflecting both elegance and familial heritage.

The Sevres porcelain bottle featured a meticulously crafted white hand, modeled after the graceful contours of Desprez's grandmother's hand. In its delicate grasp lay a perfectly sculpted pink rose in full bloom, symbolizing beauty and femininity. Around the wrist and arm of the hand, intricate vines meandered, adorned with three-dimensional pink roses that were painstakingly hand-formed and applied. This attention to detail ensured that each bottle was not just a container but a piece of art in its own right, embodying the craftsmanship and luxury associated with the Jean Desprez brand.

Available in three sizes to cater to varying preferences and occasions, the "Votre Main" bottle came in 8cm (3.14 inches) for the mini version, 17cm (6.69 inches) for the standard size, and 25cm (9.84 inches) for the larger variant. This range allowed collectors and enthusiasts alike to choose a size that suited their display preferences or practical needs while maintaining the elegance and allure of the design.

L'Atlantique, 1952:
"From a popular French song, 'Votre Main, Madame,' Jean Desprez has taken the name and the bottle for a refined feminine scent presented in a charming hand-shaped porcelain bottle with red and green decor and a flower held in the fingertips. In contrast he offers Escarmouche or 'Skirmish, the perfume that kills,' presented in the form of a crystal dagger with porcelain handle."

Overall, the Sevres porcelain bottle of "Votre Main" epitomized luxury and sophistication, blending artistry with fragrance in a manner that captured the essence of Jean Desprez's vision. It stood as a testament to the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and beauty, offering not just a perfume but a visual and tactile experience that enhanced the allure of the fragrance itself.




The Bermudian - Volumes 17-18, 1946:

"But especially suitable for the festive season are Votre Main, Etourdissant and Jardanel, the perfumes of Jean Desprez, exquisitely presented in white with trimmings of Xmas red and green . . . from $8.00 to $78.00."


Book of Friendship, 1947:

"Jean Desprez Parfumeur, 17, rue de la Paix, Paris, presents its perfumes: ETOURDISSANT, VOTRE MAIN, JARDANEL, GRANDE DAME and its POUDRE DE BEAUTÉ for all seasons. Jean Desprez certifies all his perfumes to be imported from France. They are entirely bottled, packaged and sealed in the country of origin."


Modele Pratique: 


During the war period of the 1930s and 1940s, when luxury materials were scarce due to cost and supply restrictions, Jean Desprez adapted the presentation of his perfume "Votre Main" to a more practical yet elegant square French crystal flacon. This bottle, featuring a ground glass stopper, was also utilized for his other early perfumes such as Etourdissant, Jardanel, and Grande Dame. This adaptation allowed Desprez to maintain the sophistication and allure of his fragrances while navigating the challenges of wartime production constraints.

The square French crystal flacon, distinct in its simplicity yet refined in its design, bore a paper label depicting the Sevres porcelain hand vase that symbolized the essence of "Votre Main." This label not only conveyed the elegance of the fragrance but also connected it to Desprez's artistic inspirations and attention to detail.

The base of the box housing these perfumes bore a statement asserting Desprez's ownership of his creations and warning against imitation, reflecting his commitment to quality and originality. The inscription read: "All my perfumes, regardless of the original models, are presented in the 'Practical Model.' These creations are my property and any imitator will be prosecuted in accordance with the law. Etourdissant - Votre Main - Jardanel - Grand Dame - Parfums de Jean Desprez. 17 rue de la Paix. Made in France."

Suzanne Wolfe, Jean Desprez's Paris attorney, explained his creative process, highlighting how Desprez drew inspiration from priceless artworks at places like the Palace of Versailles and the Sevres Porcelain Museum. These inspirations often found expression not only in his perfumes but also in his personal and promotional materials, such as Christmas cards and perfume labels. This artistic approach underscored Desprez's dedication to infusing his creations with a blend of artistic beauty and luxurious craftsmanship, making each perfume a testament to both his vision and the cultural richness of his inspirations.









Fate of the Fragrance:


"Votre Main" by Jean Desprez, though its exact discontinuation date remains unknown, was still available for purchase as late as 1949, showcasing its enduring popularity and allure. Today, one of the most sought-after treasures among perfume collectors is the exquisite Sevres hand flacon that housed "Votre Main." Crafted with meticulous detail and inspired by the graceful hand of Desprez's grandmother, a noted pianist, this porcelain masterpiece remains a symbol of luxury and sophistication.

The Sevres hand flacon captivates collectors not only for its artistic merit but also for its historical significance within the world of perfumery. Each element, from the delicate porcelain hand adorned with a meticulously sculpted pink rose to the intricate vines that coil around it, speaks to Desprez's commitment to beauty and craftsmanship. This bottle design not only enhanced the fragrance's appeal but also elevated it to a status of artistic reverence.

Despite its discontinuation, "Votre Main" continues to hold a special place in the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts and collectors alike. The rarity of finding intact Sevres hand flacons adds to their coveted status, making them prized acquisitions in the realm of vintage perfume memorabilia. For those fortunate enough to acquire one, whether for display or personal enjoyment, the Sevres hand flacon serves as a tangible link to a bygone era of elegance and artistic expression in perfumery.


CLICK HERE TO FIND VOTRE MAIN PERFUME BY JEAN DESPREZ


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