Arpege by Lanvin c1927

Arpège by Lanvin, launched in 1927, is one of the house's most iconic perfumes, created by André Fraysse and Paul Vacher. Its name, "Arpège," is drawn from the musical term "arpeggio," a sequence of notes played in quick succession rather than simultaneously. This reference to music was a personal tribute from Jeanne Lanvin to her only daughter, Marie-Blanche, who was a talented pianist. The name "Arpège" originates from French, and it resonates with imagery of elegance, grace, and harmony—qualities that embody both music and the fragrance itself.

The word "Arpège" evokes a sense of movement and rhythm. In a musical context, an arpeggio is a fluid, ascending or descending cascade of notes, creating a sense of flow and beauty. Translating this into a scent, "Arpège" suggests a perfume that unfolds in layers, with notes that rise and intertwine, much like the notes of a musical composition. The fragrance would be interpreted as sophisticated, delicate, yet dynamic—a melody of floral and aldehydic notes that harmonize to form an intricate and balanced whole.

Women in the 1920s would have related to a perfume named "Arpège" as something sophisticated and refined, likely associating it with the elegance of the modern, artistic woman. The Roaring Twenties were marked by a period of social and cultural transformation, with women embracing new freedoms, from fashion to lifestyle. They were stepping into public life more prominently, and a fragrance like Arpège would have appealed to their desire for luxury and individuality. The name itself, with its musical connotations, would have attracted women who appreciated art and refinement, as music and culture were highly regarded during this period.

At the time of its launch, the perfume landscape was rich with innovation. Chanel No. 5, launched in 1921, had introduced aldehydic florals into the mainstream, setting a trend for modern, abstract fragrances. However, Arpège distinguished itself through its complex, highly layered structure, composed of over 60 natural ingredients. It was classified as a floral aldehyde, much like its contemporaries, but with a softer, more romantic floral heart, emphasizing jasmine, rose, and lily of the valley. The use of aldehydes added a sparkling brightness to the bouquet, making the scent feel modern yet timeless.

The era saw the rise of opulent, multi-faceted fragrances that mirrored the complexity of the evolving social landscape. While Arpège followed certain trends, such as the use of aldehydes and florals, it was unique for its depth and sophistication, reflecting Jeanne Lanvin’s dedication to craftsmanship and artistry. It was a fragrance that stood for luxury, grace, and emotional expression, much like the music its name was drawn from.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was created with over 60 natural ingredients and is classified as a floral aldehyde fragrance for women.

• Top notes of aldehydes, narcissus, bergamot, neroli, coriander, clove and peach
• Heart notes of Grasse jasmine, Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, camellia and lily of the valley
• Base notes of ambergris, benzoin, musk, sandalwood and vetiver

Combat, 1953:

"The classic trio: rose, jasmine and aldehyde. With barely touched notes of lily of the valley, narcissus and vetiver. A harmonious house where you are welcomed, in intimacy, by family portraits, beautiful objects, rare furniture. On the piano, the score that, exactly, we want to hear. Roses fade with resigned grace and their petals fall silently on a lace handkerchief."

Scent Profile:

Imagine inhaling the first breath of Arpège—a fragrant symphony that begins with a burst of vibrant aldehydes. These top notes are like the crispness of early morning air, bright and effervescent, with a sparkling quality that immediately lifts the senses. This brightness is followed by the intoxicating scent of narcissus, its green, slightly sweet, and earthy aroma adding a delicate yet powerful depth. 

The citrusy zest of bergamot joins in, sharp yet elegant, with a hint of floral undertones that evoke sun-drenched groves. Neroli adds a honeyed, orange blossom sweetness, while the spice of coriander and clove provides a warm, peppery contrast. A touch of peach softens the composition, adding a subtle fruitiness that rounds out the top notes with a velvety smoothness.

As the scent unfolds, the heart of Arpège reveals itself in a lush bouquet of florals. Grasse jasmine, with its rich, opulent fragrance, anchors the composition, offering a heady sweetness that is both sensual and intoxicating. The Bulgarian rose brings a deep, velvety richness, its petals seemingly drenched in dew, while ylang-ylang contributes a creamy, exotic floralcy that is both warm and slightly spicy. 

The delicate, white floral notes of lily of the valley add a fresh, green element, reminiscent of spring blooms in a shaded garden. Camellia, often described as having a soft, tea-like fragrance, imparts a subtle, almost watery sweetness, creating a refined and understated elegance within the heart notes.

The base of Arpège is where the fragrance finds its grounding, with notes that add warmth and depth. The rich, animalic scent of ambergris offers a complex, oceanic depth, almost salty, with a creamy, warm undertone that lingers on the skin. Benzoin adds a resinous, balsamic sweetness, reminiscent of vanilla but with a richer, more earthy tone. 

The softness of musk brings a sensual warmth, enveloping the wearer in a soft, comforting embrace. Sandalwood, with its creamy, woody aroma, adds a smooth, almost milky quality, while vetiver introduces an earthy, grassy note that is both grounding and slightly smoky. Together, these base notes create a long-lasting, luxurious finish that echoes the complexity and elegance of the entire composition.

Each ingredient in Arpège is like a note in a well-composed melody, blending seamlessly to create a fragrance that is both timeless and modern, evoking images of elegant women in flowing gowns, softly lit by the glow of evening lights. The scent captures the essence of sophistication, with a rich, multi-layered depth that invites you to experience its beauty again and again.

Bottles:

Arpège, one of Lanvin’s most celebrated fragrances, was housed in a strikingly elegant bottle that has become as iconic as the scent itself. The "Flacon Boule", designed by Armand-Albert Rateau and produced by Verrières Brosse, is a masterpiece of Art Deco design. This spherical bottle, typically rendered in deep black glass, features gilded decoration that adds a touch of opulence and sophistication. The black glass contrasts beautifully with the gold accents, creating a visual representation of the fragrance's luxurious nature.

Early versions of the Flacon Boule were topped with a gilded stopper shaped like a raspberry or pine cone, a unique and tactile element that added to the bottle's allure. This stopper design was later replaced by a ribbed spherical stopper, also gilded, which maintained the bottle’s elegance while simplifying its overall aesthetic. A rare variant of the Flacon Boule exists in clear crystal, also adorned with gilding, offering a lighter, more ethereal version of the design that further highlights the artistry behind the bottle’s creation.

The Flacon Boule was produced in various sizes, ranging from a modest 1/4 ounce to a grand 32 ounces, catering to different preferences and needs. The smaller sizes, such as the 1 oz bottle standing at 2.25 inches tall, and the 2 oz bottle at 3.25 inches tall, were typically topped with the raspberry-shaped stopper in the early editions. The later ribbed stoppers, which came in both fully gilded and partially gilded variations, were used on bottles ranging from 2 inches tall for the 0.25 oz size to 5.25 inches tall for larger versions.

Over the years, the labeling on these bottles changed, providing clues to their production era. From 1925 to 1947, the bottles bore the name Jeanne Lanvin, reflecting the direct connection to the fashion house's founder. From 1947 to 1958, they were labeled Lanvin Parfums, marking a period of transition and expansion for the brand. After 1958, the bottles simply featured Lanvin or Lanvin Paris, a subtle shift that signaled the brand's enduring legacy while modernizing its image.

The Flacon Boule is more than just a container; it is a symbol of the era’s aesthetic values and Lanvin’s commitment to creating not just a perfume, but a work of art. Each detail, from the shape of the bottle to the design of the stopper, was carefully considered to evoke a sense of luxury, refinement, and timeless beauty, much like the fragrance it encases. Collectors and enthusiasts today still treasure these bottles, not only for their historical significance but also for their unparalleled design.

To open the classic Lanvin crystal flacon, use the following tip provided by Parfums Lanvin themselves in 1963:

Producers admonish one to eschew hot water and to run cold water on top of bottle while tapping neck gently with a metal instrument (blunt end of knife or scissors).

A limited edition was created by Sevres in 1927. This rare Boule bottle model "blue ball" in blue enameled  Sevres porcelain, decorated in gold, accented with gold collar, with its gilded raspberry stopper. Monogrammed and dated November 1927. Stands: 9 cm tall. Photo by Drouot.

Other bottles are the square or rectangular clear glass bottles, known as the Flacon Carre, with the black glass, bakelite or black plastic stopper molded or cut intaglio with the Lanvin mother/daughter logo. These were created in 1932 and were still being sold in 1980.

Boule Powder Boxes:

In 1937, Lanvin expanded its luxurious offerings beyond fragrances with the debut of its face powder, a product that quickly became synonymous with elegance and refinement. To house this exquisite powder, Lanvin introduced boule-shaped powder jars, echoing the design of the iconic Flacon Boule used for the Arpège perfume. These jars were not merely containers; they were beautifully crafted objects that reflected the sophisticated aesthetic of the Lanvin brand.

The earliest boule-shaped powder jars were made of black glass, exuding a sense of opulence and durability. These jars were topped with the same distinctive raspberry stoppers that adorned the original Flacon Boule, creating a cohesive design language across Lanvin's beauty products. The combination of black glass and gilded details made these jars not only functional but also highly decorative, perfect for display on a vanity.

As the years progressed, Lanvin adapted to changing times and materials by producing later editions of the boule-shaped powder jars in black plastic. While these newer versions retained the iconic shape, the use of plastic allowed for broader accessibility and durability, making the luxurious experience of Lanvin’s face powder available to a wider audience. Despite the shift in materials, the jars continued to embody the brand's dedication to style and quality, ensuring that each application of powder was an indulgent ritual.

These boule-shaped powder jars are a testament to Lanvin's ability to marry form and function, creating beauty products that are as delightful to behold as they are to use. The evolution from black glass to black plastic reflects the brand's responsiveness to innovation while maintaining a timeless design that continues to captivate collectors and beauty aficionados alike.

Eau de Lanvin & Eau de Cologne:

In 1938, Eau de Lanvin and Eau de Cologne was launched in octagonal, ribbed crystal bottles. Many people are not aware that the Eau de Lanvin is a toilet water/eau de toilette and that perfume is called an extrait.

Flacons for Purse & Travel:

In 1949, the Lanvinette, a gold tone purse flacon, designed by Cartier and holding 1/8 oz perfume was launched, it was often given as a gift with purchase.

In 1950, the Traveler flacon was launched, holding 1 1/3 ounces of precious "Arpege" in Eau de Lanvin, is a cylindrical gold metal bottle, it is  the big sister to the Lanvinette flacon. (these were still being sold in 1976)

In 1953, the black and gold purse flacons were introduced.

Curiously in 1957, ---"Thought you would like to know that for the first time in automotive history the exciting and elegant Cadillac Brougham (which sells for $12,000) will come equipped with Lanvin's one ounce perfume in the atomizer bottle." This is fitted in the armrest of the car and is standard equipment - so here again is another first for Lanvin. Sincerely, Peter Fink.” The atomizer was especially designed by STEP for the House of Lanvin, it is only operational when inverted, is completely leak proof and spill proof. It will hold $25 worth of Arpege, and along with all of the other appurtenances will be standard, not optional  equipment.

Arpege Sprays:

In 1962, Arpege Perfume Mist (200 metered sprays, refillable) and the Arpege Spray Mist (1000 metered sprays, refillable), were introduced.

In 1963, the Arpege Natural Spray was introduced, in parfum and Eau de Lanvin. "It's all Arpege. No wonder Arpege Natural Spray lasts long after aerosol fragrances have been used up. No wonder Lanvin dares to bring it to you in a crystal clear flacon, so you can see exactly what you're paying for. Won't leak, won't spill — but it will refill."

Veil of Arpege:

In 1965, A Veil of Arpege, a fluffy lotion emollient, was launched. The boule bottle and square cut flacon were still being used. Still being sold in 1987.

Eau Arpege &Eau de Arpege:

In 1971, Eau Arpege/Eau de Arpege was launched this was sold until around 1989. A line of bath and after bath preparations were also launched during this year.

Arpege Bath & Fragrance Oil:

In 1977, Arpege Bath and Fragrance Oil was introduced, it was a metered aerosol spray of perfume, meant to be sprayed onto the body and not in the tub.

Return of the Boule Flacon:

In 1982, the return of the black boule flacon was launched (though it was available before 1982, but in very limited numbers), since then, all of the Arpege fragrances can be found in this form, as an atomizer for the eau de toilette.

Eau de Parfum:

In 1987, Arpege Eau de Parfum (as L'Eau de Parfum Arpege) was released, presented in the black boule flacon. Lanvin wanted the new formulation to “make an art statement. Serge Mansau designed the vaporizer and he understood beautifully what we wanted. He looked back in Lanvin's tradition and re-interpreted the famous black ball bottle of Arpege in a modernized flacon.

Relance d'Arpege:

In 1992, the original perfume of Arpege underwent a reformulation by Hubert Fraysse. This reformulated version known as "Relance d'Arpege"was released in 1993. Also in 1993, Eau Arpege was relaunched.

Unknown limited edition, ARPEGE bottle limited to 1560 copies,  glass bottle entirely decorated with gold. H: 6.5 cm, dates to 1990s.

Limited Edition Bottles:

From 1998, Jardin D'Or (Golden Garden), designed by Pascal Mourgue, limited edition of just 1500 copies.

After 1998, more limited editions followed. The juice remains the same, only the bottle is different for all of these limited edition collector bottles.

In 1999, Arpege was sold in a limited edition "Grand Deluxe Edition" published in 499 copies, created and designed by Mansau: Presented in its modernist cardboard box wrapped in glossy black paper and yellow embossed siglé and titled, bottle sculpture colorless crystal solid rectangular cubic etched sandblasted on one side of the symbol of the house decor, gold banded collar, pearl gold lacquered cap, set in a frame of black plexiglass and brass. Stands 15.5 cm tall.

In 1999, Olivier Gagnère designed a limited edition parfum bottle for Arpege, called Arpege Intimite (Privacy), it was made up of blue and gold. It was a limited edition of just 2000 copies.

Also in 1999, Reflets D'Or (Golden Reflection), limited edition of just 3500 copies, designed by Van Lith, in clear glass covered in gilding.

Nuee d'Or (Golden Cloud), limited edition of only 2500 copies, black glass with powdery gilding, created by Van Lith.

From 2000, Reve Bleu (Blue Dream), a limited edition of just 700 copies,designed by Eric Halley, the bottle had blue feathers adorning the flacon.

Sortilege (Spell or Hex), created by Hervé van der Straeten, limited edition of just 2000 copies.

Limited edition eau de parfum, 50ml, age unknown.

In 2005, a version of the Arpege Extrait was released.

In 2006, a reformulation of the original 1927 fragrance was launched which resulted in a sweet floral fragrance, contains more than 60 rare and precious flowers. Presented in a 100 ml black 'Arpège' bottle.

In October 2009, to celebrate their 120th anniversary,  a limited edition of Arpège in 50 or 100 ml Eau de Parfum was released along with sketches by designer Alber Elbaz on the outer box.

In 2013, a minaudière celebrating the 85th anniversary of Arpège parfum was released. Made in Italy of resin molded in the shape of the Arpège bottle, with gold-tone hardware, chain handle and push-button closure.

RSS Feed Widget