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Thursday, October 28, 2021

Enigma by Alexa c1931

The history of Enigma by Alexandra de Markoff is a bit mysterious, much like its name suggests. It's often associated with its launch in 1931, but there are conflicting reports that suggest it might have been reintroduced or relaunched in 1944. The discrepancy could indeed be due to production being stalled during World War II, a common occurrence for many luxury goods during that time.

Regardless of its exact launch date or relaunch, Enigma remains an iconic fragrance, known for its timeless appeal and mysterious aura. Its blend of exotic notes has captured the imagination of perfume enthusiasts for decades.




Enigma by Alexandra de Markoff was indeed available in two main concentrations:

2 oz Extrait de Parfum: This version likely offered a more intense and long-lasting fragrance experience, as extrait de parfum typically contains a higher concentration of perfume oils compared to other formulations.

12 oz Cologne Concentrée: This version likely provided a lighter, fresher interpretation of the Enigma fragrance, suitable for everyday wear and warmer weather.

Both concentrations would have allowed enthusiasts to experience the unique blend of notes that made Enigma such a captivating scent.

Fragrance Composition:


Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody oriental chypre fragrance for women. Patchouli dominant composition - semi-oriental.
  • Top notes: pimento, herbs, green notes, aldehydes, bergamot, coriander
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, carnation
  • Base notes: amber, woods, spices, patchouli, musk and oakmoss


Enigma by Alexandra de Markoff is a captivating fragrance that blends woody, oriental, and chypre elements to create a scent that is both alluring and mysterious. Here's a breakdown of its scent profile based on its classification and notes:

  • Top Notes: The fragrance opens with a burst of freshness and spice, featuring pimento, herbs, green notes, aldehydes, bergamot, and coriander. These top notes contribute to the initial impression of the scent, providing a lively and invigorating start.
  • Middle Notes: As the fragrance develops, floral accords emerge, including jasmine, rose, and carnation. These middle notes add a touch of femininity and sophistication to the composition, balancing the spice and freshness of the top notes.
  • Base Notes: The base of Enigma is where its depth and sensuality lie. It features warm and earthy elements such as amber, woods, spices, patchouli, musk, and oakmoss. Patchouli is particularly dominant in the base, lending a rich, earthy, and slightly sweet character to the fragrance. These base notes anchor the scent and provide longevity, lingering on the skin and leaving a lasting impression.

Overall, Enigma by Alexandra de Markoff is described as teasing and mysterious, with a blend of notes that evoke a sense of allure and femininity. Its semi-oriental composition, with patchouli as a key player, adds depth and complexity to the fragrance, making it a timeless and captivating choice for women who appreciate a scent with depth and intrigue.


Tricolor, 1944:
"Teasing and mysterious. What woman wouldn't covet that description? A dash of Alexa's "Enigma' has the power to make you the tantalizing female you'd like to be. "Enigma" is offered in two strengths— the Extrait de Parfum, a pure perfume extract, and a light perfume— in several sizes. New and nose-catching!" "


The New Yorker - Volume 22, 1946:
 "Alexa: If you're looking for a mild and delicate floral, Tiara is your dish. Enigma is a musky, Oriental business."


Harper's Bazaar, 1946:
"Alexa's "Enigma," mysterious and charming. 2 oz., $30."

Bottles:







Drug and Cosmetic Catalog, 1931:
"Alexa's Enigma perfume was dramatically packaged in a shiny black bottle with white design and retailed at $15 for six drams."

The packaging of Alexa's Enigma perfume was as striking as the fragrance itself. A shiny black bottle with white design would have likely added to the allure and mystery of the scent, reflecting its enigmatic nature. Additionally, the retail price of $15 for six drams suggests that Enigma was accessible to a wide range of consumers, despite its luxurious and captivating scent profile. This combination of affordability and sophistication likely contributed to its popularity among fragrance enthusiasts.




Fate of the Fragrance:


It was discontinued and reintroduced in 1972.

The discontinuation and subsequent reintroduction of Enigma in 1972 add another layer to its intriguing history. This pattern of discontinuation and relaunch is not uncommon in the fragrance industry, often influenced by factors such as changing consumer preferences, market trends, and production considerations.

The decision to reintroduce Enigma in 1972 suggests that the fragrance maintained a loyal following or retained its iconic status even after its initial discontinuation. The relaunch likely presented an opportunity to reintroduce the scent to a new generation of consumers while capitalizing on its nostalgic appeal for existing fans.

Despite its temporary absence from the market, Enigma's return in 1972 would have delighted enthusiasts who cherished its unique blend of notes and its ability to evoke mystery and allure.


So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fragrance for women. It begins with a fresh top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a sweet powdery base.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, rosewood, lemon
  • Middle notes:  jasmine, rose, carnation, orris, ylang ylang, orchid
  • Base notes: amber, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver, incense, civet, benzoin

Enigma, classified as an oriental fragrance for women, offers a complex and enticing olfactory experience, characterized by its layered composition of fresh, floral, and sweet notes. Here's a breakdown of its scent profile based on the provided notes:

  • Top Notes: Enigma opens with a burst of freshness and brightness, thanks to the presence of aldehydes, bergamot, coriander, rosewood, and lemon. These top notes provide an invigorating and uplifting introduction to the fragrance, setting the stage for the journey ahead.
  • Middle Notes: The heart of Enigma reveals an exotic floral bouquet, featuring jasmine, rose, carnation, orris, ylang ylang, and orchid. These middle notes contribute to the fragrance's allure, adding a touch of femininity and sophistication. The combination of floral accords creates a rich and captivating aroma that forms the core of the scent.
  • Base Notes: Enigma's base notes provide a warm and sensual foundation, with hints of sweetness and depth. Amber, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver, incense, civet, and benzoin combine to create a sweet, powdery finish that lingers on the skin. These base notes add richness and complexity to the fragrance, leaving a lasting impression.

Overall, Enigma offers an enchanting olfactory journey, transitioning from a fresh and invigorating opening to an exotic floral heart and finally settling into a sweet and powdery base. Its combination of contrasting elements creates a scent that is both mysterious and alluring, making it a timeless choice for women who appreciate complexity and sophistication in their fragrances.


If Enigma by Alexandra de Markoff is currently discontinued, it marks the end of an era for a fragrance that has captured the imaginations and hearts of many over the years. Despite its discontinuation, Enigma's legacy lives on through the memories and experiences of those who have worn and loved it.

Discontinuations in the fragrance industry can be the result of various factors, including changes in consumer preferences, shifts in market trends, or logistical considerations within the brand. While it's always sad to see a beloved fragrance discontinued, it's not uncommon for fragrances to have a lifespan with peaks and valleys in availability.

For enthusiasts who still long for the scent of Enigma, there may be avenues to explore, such as seeking out vintage bottles or discovering fragrances with similar scent profiles. Additionally, sometimes discontinued fragrances are revived or reimagined in the future, offering a glimmer of hope for fans of the original scent.

Though Enigma may no longer be readily available, its impact on the world of fragrance and the memories it has created for those who wore it will endure.


 For more reading check out my post on Alexandra de Markoff.



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