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Saturday, December 12, 2015

Scandal by Lanvin c1931

Scandal by Lanvin, launched in 1931, emerged during a dynamic period in the perfume industry. This era saw the rise of bold, complex fragrances that reflected the changing social and cultural landscapes. The 1920s and early 1930s were marked by the aftermath of World War I, the rise of the Art Deco movement, and a burgeoning sense of modernity and freedom. Perfumes of this time, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921) and Guerlain's Shalimar (1925), often pushed the boundaries of traditional perfumery with innovative compositions and daring names.

Scandal, classified as a spicy, leather chypre fragrance, distinguished itself with its rich, mossy sandalwood base. While many fragrances of the time embraced floral and aldehydic notes, Scandal's bold combination of spice, leather, and chypre elements set it apart. The fragrance was both luxurious and provocative, capturing the spirit of an era that celebrated both opulence and rebellion. The inclusion of leather notes, in particular, added a daring, sensual edge that resonated with the increasingly liberated and adventurous women of the early 1930s.

The choice of the name "Scandal" by Parfums Lanvin was a masterstroke in marketing and branding. The word "scandal" itself, derived from the Latin "scandalum," meaning a cause of offense or stumbling block, immediately evokes notions of controversy, intrigue, and allure. In the context of a perfume, "Scandal" suggested a fragrance that was unapologetically bold and captivating, designed to turn heads and provoke strong reactions. The name implied a break from convention, an invitation to embrace one's inner audacity and charm.

Women in the 1930s, navigating a world that was increasingly modern and dynamic, would likely have been drawn to the daring promise of a perfume named Scandal. This was a time when women were becoming more independent, exploring new social freedoms, and challenging traditional norms. Scandal, with its rich, spicy, and leather notes, would have been perceived as a symbol of empowerment and sophistication. It offered an olfactory expression of confidence and allure, perfect for the modern woman who was unafraid to make a statement.


The imagery and emotions evoked by the word "Scandal" would be potent and multifaceted. It conjured visions of high society intrigue, glamorous soirées, and whispered secrets. The name suggested a fragrance that could transform the mundane into the extraordinary, imbuing the wearer with an air of mystery and excitement. In relation to perfume, "Scandal" promised an experience that was both sensuous and unforgettable, a scent that would linger in memory long after it had left the room.

Andre Fraysse, the perfumer behind Scandal, crafted a fragrance that perfectly embodied these themes. His creation was a testament to Lanvin's commitment to elegance and innovation. By layering spices and leather over a rich, mossy sandalwood base, Fraysse developed a scent that was complex and multifaceted, much like the women who wore it. Scandal was not just a perfume; it was a declaration of individuality and sophistication, a fragrant emblem of the daring and glamorous spirit of its time.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy, leather chypre fragrance for women. It begins with a dry, fresh top, followed by a leathery heart, layered over a warm, sensual base of sandalwood laden moss.

  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, mandarin, clary sage, clove
  • Heart notes: carnation, leather, orris, rose, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, Grasse jasmine
  • Base notes: civet, patchouli, ambergris, incense, oakmoss, vanilla, vetiver, benzoin, Mysore sandalwood


Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:
"The evocative smell of leather, revealed by Scandal, confers an exotic appeal that encourages travel and daydreaming, while Rumeur, with resin scents, reveals iris and jasmine, which captivate and retain like a marvelous horizon."

Scandal by Lanvin, introduced in 1931, was celebrated for its unique and evocative scent, which captured the imagination of its era and inspired a sense of exotic adventure. According to Le Petit Parisien in 1941, Scandal was distinguished by its evocative leather aroma, which conferred an exotic appeal, encouraging daydreaming and travel. The fragrance's leather notes were described as transporting, revealing a world of possibility and intrigue, much like a mysterious journey into uncharted territories. This exotic quality was set against a backdrop of luxurious resinous scents, contrasting with other perfumes like Rumeur, which featured iris and jasmine in a captivating, horizon-like fragrance.

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:
"Scandal by Lanvin: It's a noisy wave, a source of fragrant complicity, a puff of tropical air heavy with voluptuous warmth, it's a scent of brunette and mystery that envelops you in a kind of aura ' inexpressible."

By 1950, L'Amour de l'art described Scandal as a "noisy wave" of fragrance that offered a sense of fragrant complicity and a puff of tropical air filled with voluptuous warmth. The perfume was noted for its brunette, mysterious quality, enveloping the wearer in an "inexpressible" aura. Scandal's leather notes were highlighted as central to its exotic charm, inviting wearers to indulge in fantasies of travel and luxury. The fragrance was portrayed as ideal for a variety of occasions, from golf and walking to driving and weekends in the countryside, emphasizing its versatility and the way it enhanced life's moments with a touch of opulence.

"Exotic and tenacious, Scandal accentuates the luxury of the décor. In it, a secret smell of leather invites you to dream and travel. Perfume for golf, walking, driving, and weekends in the countryside will be all pretexts for Scandal."

Consumer Reports from 1956 summarized Scandal with a straightforward yet positive review, noting its spicy character and distinct leather note. The fragrance was priced affordably with options for 1/4 oz. at $5, 1 oz. at $16, and 2 oz. at $30, making it accessible for a broad range of consumers while maintaining its reputation for quality. The report’s succinct description reflected the perfume’s enduring appeal and its place in the market as a good-value option for those seeking a distinctive and elegant scent.

Overall, Scandal by Lanvin was consistently recognized for its exotic, leather-infused character, which set it apart from other fragrances of its time. Its ability to evoke a sense of adventure and luxury, combined with its versatile use for various activities, made it a notable and cherished fragrance in the early to mid-20th century.

Scent Profile:

 

As you experience Scandal by Lanvin, the top notes offer a strikingly dry and fresh introduction. The aldehydes create an initial burst of effervescent brightness, with a clean, soapy aroma that is both invigorating and slightly metallic. This is quickly followed by the zesty, vibrant scent of bergamot, which adds a crisp citrus note that sharpens and brightens the fragrance. Lemon enhances this citrusy freshness with its tangy, uplifting quality, while neroli brings a delicate floral nuance with its sweet, honeyed undertones. 

Mandarin introduces a softer, sweeter citrus note, adding warmth and richness to the opening. Clary sage adds a herbaceous, slightly woody depth, contrasting with the brighter citrus notes. Finally, clove introduces a spicy, warm element with its rich, aromatic kick, setting the stage for the complex heart of the fragrance.

As the scent evolves into the heart notes, you are enveloped by a luxurious, leathery core. The leather note emerges prominently, offering a deep, rich aroma that is both warm and slightly smoky, evoking the feel of a well-worn leather jacket. This is seamlessly integrated with the spicy, sweet warmth of carnation, which enhances the complexity of the leather with its clove-like spice. Orris adds a creamy, powdery softness, providing a velvety texture that complements the leather. 

Rose introduces a touch of classic floral elegance, its subtle sweetness blending harmoniously with the other heart notes. Ylang-ylang adds an exotic, lush floral scent, bringing a creamy and slightly fruity nuance to the composition. Orange blossom contributes a bright, clean floral note, adding freshness and depth. Grasse jasmine, known for its rich and intoxicating scent, infuses the heart with a heady, opulent floral character, creating a sophisticated and alluring bouquet.

In the base, Scandal reveals its warm, sensual foundation. Civet contributes a musky, animalic depth that is both provocative and compelling, adding a primal, earthy quality. Patchouli offers a rich, woody, and slightly sweet aroma, grounding the fragrance with its deep, earthy tones. Ambergris introduces a warm, resinous sweetness, with a hint of marine salinity that adds complexity and richness. Incense adds a smoky, resinous element, evoking the ambiance of ancient rituals and enhancing the fragrance's mystical allure. 

Oakmoss provides a damp, earthy, and slightly woody scent, adding depth and complexity to the base. Vanilla contributes a creamy, sweet warmth that softens the other base notes and adds a comforting, gourmand element. Vetiver introduces a smoky, woody quality with a touch of green freshness, balancing the richness of the base. Benzoin adds a sweet, balsamic note that enhances the warmth and richness of the fragrance. Mysore sandalwood, with its creamy, smooth, and woody aroma, forms the luxurious and sensual backbone of the base, wrapping the scent in a warm, enduring embrace.

Scandal by Lanvin is a fragrance that evolves dramatically from its fresh and vibrant top notes through its richly leathery heart to its warm, sensual base. It embodies a luxurious and adventurous spirit, perfect for those who wish to make a bold statement with their scent.


Bottles:










Fate of the Fragrance:


Scandal by Lanvin, a fragrance renowned for its bold and evocative character, was discontinued in 1971, marking the end of a significant chapter in its storied history. Launched in 1931, Scandal had captivated the imaginations of its wearers with its unique blend of spicy and leathery notes layered over a rich, mossy base. Over the decades, it had become synonymous with sophistication and exotic allure, reflecting a period of luxury and elegance in the perfume world.

The discontinuation of Scandal in 1971 was emblematic of broader shifts in the fragrance industry and changing consumer preferences. By the early 1970s, the perfume landscape was evolving rapidly, with new trends emerging that often diverged from the classic compositions of earlier decades. The 1970s saw a growing interest in more modern, unconventional scents that reflected the era's shifting cultural and social dynamics. As fragrances became more experimental and diverse, the traditional, bold profiles of earlier perfumes like Scandal began to fall out of favor.

Moreover, the 1970s were a time of significant change for many iconic brands. Lanvin, known for its haute couture and luxurious fragrances, faced the pressures of adapting to a new market environment that demanded innovation and freshness. The decision to discontinue Scandal may have been part of a strategic move to refresh the brand’s offerings and align with contemporary trends.

For fans of Scandal, its discontinuation would have been a poignant moment, signaling the end of a beloved fragrance that had defined their olfactory experiences for decades. The scent, which had once been a symbol of adventure and sophistication, would now exist only in memory and nostalgia. Its departure from the market highlighted the transient nature of fragrance trends and the constant evolution of the perfume industry.

In retrospect, the discontinuation of Scandal in 1971 serves as a reminder of the dynamic and ever-changing world of perfumery. While Scandal's time in the spotlight was relatively brief, its impact and the memories it created for its wearers continued to linger long after its departure. The fragrance remains a testament to a specific era's elegance and boldness, cherished by those who experienced its unique and luxurious allure.


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