Joya by Myrurgia c1924

The 1920s, often referred to as the Roaring Twenties, was a time of significant cultural and social change, marked by economic prosperity and a move towards modernity in art, fashion, and lifestyle. This era saw a fascination with luxury and opulence, partly as a reaction to the austerity of World War I. Jewelry, or "joyas" in Spanish, became symbols of wealth, glamour, and the liberated spirit of the time. The period was also notable for its burgeoning film industry, with silent films often showcasing themes of romance, wealth, and exoticism, which complemented the allure of luxurious items like fine perfumes and jewels.

Myrurgia's choice of the name "Joya" for their perfume in 1924 taps into these cultural currents. The word "Joya" means "jewel" in Spanish, and it evokes images of elegance, beauty, and rarity. These connotations are perfectly suited to a luxury perfume, designed to be a precious and cherished item. Naming the perfume "Joya" aligns it with the opulence and sophistication associated with high-quality jewelry, suggesting that the fragrance is as valuable and exquisite as a fine jewel.

During this transitional period into the Art Deco era, the design and fashion trends were greatly influenced by the lavishness and geometric elegance characteristic of Art Deco design. Popular gemstones included diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, rubies, onyx, pearls, and amethyst, each prized for its beauty and rarity. These stones often featured in intricate designs that highlighted the clean lines and sharp angles of the Art Deco style. Precious metals such as platinum, white gold, and to a lesser extent, yellow gold, were used to create settings that enhanced the brilliance of these gemstones. Platinum, in particular, was favored for its strength and neutral color, making it ideal for the detailed and symmetrical designs of the period.

For women of the 1920s, a perfume named "Joya" would resonate deeply. The decade was one of emancipation and empowerment, with women breaking free from traditional roles and exploring new freedoms, including in their fashion and lifestyle choices. A perfume called "Joya" would appeal to their desire for luxury and self-expression, embodying the new sense of identity and sophistication they were cultivating. The name would suggest that wearing the perfume was akin to adorning oneself with a beautiful piece of jewelry, enhancing their allure and elegance.

The response to "Joya" by women at the time would likely have been enthusiastic. Perfume was an essential accessory for the modern woman, a final touch to their carefully curated appearance. The evocative name would draw them in, promising not just a fragrance, but an experience of luxury and refinement. The imagery and emotions evoked by the word "Joya"—beauty, exclusivity, and timeless elegance—would make it a compelling choice, conjuring visions of sparkling gems and the glamour of the era.

In summary, "Joya" by Myrurgia, launched in 1924, capitalized on the cultural fascination with luxury and jewels of the 1920s. The name "Joya" (meaning "jewel" in Spanish) evoked images of elegance and beauty, aligning the perfume with the sophisticated and glamorous aspirations of women at the time. It would have been seen as a precious accessory, enhancing a woman's allure and sophistication, making it a highly desirable and unique fragrance. This name not only captured the essence of the opulent Art Deco era but also reflected the luxurious and modern sensibilities of the Roaring Twenties.

Vogue, 1931:

"Joya," and its fragrance is so penetrating that it can serve as a perfume well as a cologne."

The Playgoer, 1937:

"Created by the celebrated perfumer MYRURGIA, Spain ,JOYA - PERFUME "JOYA" means jewel ... with the enchanted sparkle of a most precious fragrance." "

Bottle:

Fate of the Fragrance:

Joya by Myrurgia continued to captivate consumers well into the 1930s, maintaining its allure and prestige. By 1933, the Eau de Cologne variant of Joya was still being sold, available in two sizes, reflecting its sustained popularity and the brand's commitment to offering options to suit different preferences and needs. This continued presence in the market during the early 1930s indicates that Joya had established itself as a beloved fragrance, resonating with the desires for elegance and luxury that characterized the era. However, it seems that Joya may have faced a period of discontinuation before being reformulated and relaunched in 1950. This relaunch likely aimed to rejuvenate the brand and reintroduce the classic fragrance to a new generation, preserving its legacy while adapting to contemporary tastes and trends.

1950 Reformulation & Relaunch:

"Joya, means jewel and is a subtle, exciting scent that grows more beautiful as you wear it you find that you respond to its indefinable charms more and more as you wear it too, a fragrance that catches the flavor the glamour of Spain, cherished by the most distinguished women of Spain."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as an aldehydic floral woody fragrance for women. It starts off with a fresh aldehydic top note, followed by an elegant, classic floral heart, resting on a feminine, warm balsamic base.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, mandarin, lime, lemon
• Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, rosa centifolia, orris, ylang ylang, lily, lily of the valley
• Base notes: amber, benzoin, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, cinnamon

Scent Profile:

In the glamorous world of the 1950s, where cocktail parties were the epitome of social elegance, Joya by Myrurgia graced the wrists and décolletage of wealthy women, draped in their finest jewels. Picture a sophisticated soiree, the air filled with the soft clinking of Martini glasses, the laughter of well-heeled guests mingling over classic cocktails like Old Fashioneds, Manhattans, and Gimlets.

As the evening begins, you catch the first whiff of Joya, an aldehydic burst that is both fresh and effervescent. The aldehydes open the fragrance with a sparkling intensity, reminiscent of a diamond's glint under chandelier light, setting the stage for an olfactory journey as dazzling as the jewels adorning the partygoers. This top note is beautifully intertwined with the zest of bergamot, mandarin, lime, and lemon, each citrus element adding its own crisp, invigorating twist. The bergamot brings a delicate sweetness, while the mandarin adds a juicy brightness. Lime and lemon contribute a sharp, tangy freshness, like the first sip of a perfectly balanced cocktail.

As the top notes gracefully wane, the heart of Joya reveals itself, a bouquet as opulent as the rubies, sapphires, and emeralds worn by the women at the party. The floral symphony is led by carnation, with its spicy, clove-like scent adding depth and character. Jasmine introduces a rich, intoxicating sweetness, embodying the allure of a string of pearls. Rosa centifolia, the hundred-petaled rose, offers a lush, romantic softness, akin to the delicate blush of a fine pink tourmaline. Orris, with its powdery elegance, evokes the smooth luster of polished ivory. Ylang ylang infuses the heart with an exotic, creamy note, while lily and lily of the valley add a touch of delicate freshness, reminiscent of the pristine sparkle of diamonds.

As the evening deepens, so does the fragrance, settling into a warm, feminine base. Amber exudes a rich, resinous warmth, wrapping you in a golden glow as if adorned with amber jewelry. Benzoin adds a sweet, balsamic touch, enhancing the luxurious feel. Musk introduces a sensual, animalic depth, while sandalwood provides a smooth, creamy woodiness, grounding the fragrance like a solid gold band. Tonka bean and vanilla weave together to create a sweet, comforting base, akin to the velvety smoothness of a mink stole. Finally, a hint of cinnamon spices things up, adding an intriguing twist, much like the secretive glint of a hidden jewel.

Joya by Myrurgia, with its complex blend of notes, creates a fragrance experience that is as multifaceted and captivating as the glittering jewels of the 1950s cocktail parties. Women wearing Joya would feel as glamorous and sophisticated as the precious stones they adorned, each whiff of the fragrance evoking a sense of timeless elegance and luxurious indulgence.

Bottles:

Parfum/Extract/Extracto:

The perfume is contained in a gorgeous cut crystal bottle faceted like a precious gem, which is a clever play on it's name, Joya, "jewel" in Spanish. The earlier bottles had white paper labels while the later bottles from the 1980s have gold metallic labels.

The heavy cardstock presentation box is covered in white paper (which may turned light brown over the years) with some gold trim. 

The bottle sizes:

• 5ml miniature
• stands 1.25" tall 
• 1/7 oz (0.142 oz/4.2ml) stands 
• 1/4 oz (0.25 oz/7.5ml) stands 1.75" tall.
• 1/2 oz (0.50 oz/15ml) stands 2" tall.
• 1 oz (30ml) stands 

Cologne (Colonia) and Lotion (Locion):

Jewel Bottles:

Both the Joya Cologne and the Lotion were presented in the jewel bottle reminiscent of the one used for the parfum. The sizes changed over the years.

• 1/2 oz 
• 1 oz 
• 1.34 oz (39ml)
• 1.7 oz (50ml)
• 3.3 oz (100ml)
• 3.5 oz bottle stands 3.75" tall
• 5 oz (150ml)
• 7 oz 
• 14 oz stands 5.5" tall
• Factice stands 7" tall

Cologne Sprays (Atomizador):

Other bottles of Cologne were tall, square based columns fitted with sprays.

• 1.7 oz 
• 2 oz (Refillable)

Eau de Toilette:

Jewel Bottle:

The Joya Eau de Toilette was presented in the jewel bottle exactly like the one used for the cologne.

• 1.7 oz
• 6.8 oz 

Other bottles of Eau de Toilette were tall, square based columns fitted with sprays.

• 1 oz 

Ancillary Products:

• 4 oz Dusting Powder

Fate of the Fragrance:

As the decades progressed and the world of fashion and fragrance evolved, Joya by Myrurgia remained a symbol of timeless elegance. However, even the most cherished classics sometimes find themselves at a crossroads with changing tastes and market dynamics. By the 1980s, Joya faced such a moment. The fragrance, which had captivated women for decades with its aldehydic floral woody composition, was eventually discontinued.

The 1980s was a period marked by bold, expressive styles and the rise of new fragrance trends. Perfumes with powerful, opulent scents became popular, reflecting the decade’s penchant for extravagance and larger-than-life personas. Amidst this shifting landscape, the subtle elegance of Joya began to fade into the background. Despite its enduring beauty and the loyal following it had garnered over the years, the fragrance could not compete with the wave of new, trendier scents that flooded the market.

Discontinuing Joya was akin to retiring a beloved piece of jewelry—a decision that, while practical, carried an emotional weight. For many, Joya was not just a perfume; it was a companion through countless memorable moments, an olfactory signature that spoke of grace and sophistication. The fragrance's departure marked the end of an era, closing a chapter that had begun in the opulent 1920s and gracefully extended into the latter half of the 20th century.

The discontinuation of Joya in the 1980s reflected the inevitable changes in consumer preferences and the relentless march of time in the fashion and beauty industries. It left behind a legacy of a fragrance that had once captured the essence of luxurious living, sparkling cocktail parties, and the timeless allure of a woman's most treasured jewels. Although no longer available on store shelves, Joya's memory lingered on, cherished by those who had once embraced its elegance and sophistication.