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Wednesday, February 22, 2017

Jet by Corday c1924

Jet by Corday: launched in 1924. Originally named "Jet Parfume" from 1924 until around 1929.



Fragrance Composition:


So what did it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic spicy oriental fragrance for women with a "luxurious" leather note.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lavender, anise, peach
  • Middle notes: plum, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, coriander, rose, jasmine, iris
  • Base notes: castoreum, orris, vetiver, leather, vanilla, amber, myrrh, frankincense, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss


Bottles:


Designed by Julien Viard, the original bottle for Jet was in the shape of a fountain (jet), the base formed the fountain itself, realistically molded with rippling circles of water radiating from the center. The tall, graceful stopper was the water jetting upward and downward. The stopper was decorated with an aqua green patina that simulated the color of water. Bottle measures 3.75" diameter and stands 5.5" tall to the top of the stopper. The base is molded with "Corday Paris." The bottle was created for the 1925 Art Deco Exhibit in Paris.

The 1924 ad below describes "Le Jet Parfum - in a handsome bottle, resembles a fountain of waters in a dainty background of pink, rosebuds and green leaves; delicately perfumed with an alluring fascinating odor....$13.50."




This is the original 1924 bottle for Jet Parfume by Corday, in the shape of a fountain.

This bottle retailed for $13.50 in 1925, but by 1929, the price dropped to $4.35. This bottle is extremely rare to find today. 

A 1925 ad reads "The beauty of the glass phial is worthy of the exquisite fragrance in Corday's perfumes with their fantastic names - Jet, Serre Fleurie, Kai-Sang and - so on. These for a gift to hostess or souvenir of a visit. Prices $4.50, $5.50, $7.50."








Here is the box for the perfume in this patent document. The presentation box is covered with paper printed with climbing pink roses and leaves against a latticework trellis imitating a gazebo effect.






Jet was then discontinued for short time before being relaunched in new bottles.


Fan-Stoppered Bottles:


Then in the 1930s it was available in a fan stoppered bottle. The lovely glass bottles feature a fluted bulbous base, octagonal foot and fitted with a fan shaped ground glass stopper, much in the style of Guerlain's Shalimar parfum bottle. This bottle was used not only for Parfum, but also the Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette. Note: The flacon was also used for three other Corday perfumes: Possession, Trapeze and L'Ardente Nuit.

The deluxe parfum flacons are made up of clear crystal and have fan shaped glass stoppers. The deluxe parfum bottles were equipped with a silver metal label hanging around the neck of the bottle, much like a liquor tag found on decanters, these fine crystal bottles were made by Baccarat and are acid marked on the base with the Baccarat logo. 

The non-deluxe bottles were made up of molded glass and simply had a silver foil or white paper label. If your bottle is molded with "Corday Bottle Made in France" on the base, they were made by Pochet et du Courval. If your bottle is simply molded with "Corday" on the base, they were produced by Wheaton Glass in New Jersey, USA. 


Fan Stoppered Bottles:
  • 1/5 oz Parfum (acquaintance bottle) mini bottle stands 1.7" tall.  
  • 1/4 oz Parfum bottle stands approximately 2.5" tall.
  • 1/2 oz Parfum bottle stands 3.5" tall. 
  • 1  oz Parfum bottle stands 4.25" tall.  
  • 1 oz Parfum deluxe crystal bottle stands 6" tall and was made by Baccarat.
  • 2 oz bottle stands 4.75" tall.
  • 2.5 oz Eau de Parfum Spray stands 5.25" tall.
  • 4 oz Eau de Parfum Splash bottle stands 
  • 1 oz Eau de Toilette bottle stands 5" tall. 
  • 3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash bottles stands 5.5" tall.
  • Factice (dummy bottle used for advertising) stands 8" tall.


 

photo from worthpoint


Black Glass Stoppered Bottles:


By 1931, it was repackaged in a dramatic new ensemble, a narrow, tall, clear glass bottle with a highly polished opaque jet black glass stopper. A black rectangular paper label is set at the center top of the bottle, with "Jet" written in white lettering. The back of the label has a repeated pattern that reads: "Made in France." 

The 5 dram and the 10 dram bottles are molded with "Bottle Made in France." on the base. These bottles were housed inside of oblong shaped boxes covered with white satin. The top of the box is edged in black, to match the black lettering on the center front of the box. The bottle itself was nestled in a white satin covered holder that was fixed into the black velvet covered base of the box. The underside of the box reads: "Made in France" in gold font. Note: I have also found the 5 dram bottle in the same style box, only it was covered with the white pinstripe embossed paper instead of the white satin.

The 2 dram size bottle was fitted inside of a rectangular box covered with its lid covered in white paper which is embossed with pinstripes with a black border and lettering that reads: "Jet Corday." The base of the box is covered with glossy black paper. The bottle laid down inside the box which was covered with white satin. Inside the lid of the box would be a folded piece of tissue paper that had black lettering with a "CP logo" and lettering that read: "Corday Parfums, 15, Rue de la Paix, Paris."


This modern design lasted until the 1960s. 

It was available in five sizes: 
  • 1 dram bottle stands about 1.5" tall
  • 2 drams (7.4ml or 0.25 oz) bottle stands just over 2" tall
  • 5 drams (18ml or 0.60 oz) bottle stands 2.5" tall
  • 10 drams (36ml or 1.25 oz) bottle stood about 3.25" tall 
  • 20 drams (73ml or 2.5 oz)

 


Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1931
"Corday's Jet fragrance is dramatically packaged in white with black label and jet stopper."


A 1942 advertisement described Jet as the perfume to wear "for witching hours. Corday's Jet casts a spell of "Black Magic" over the lovely lady who wears it and makes her most bewitching. An exotic odeur, heavy and lingering but not heady. A fragrance of sophistication sure to enhance feminine allure. It's the daring, yet subtle essence, that every woman longs to possess - an ideal gift." Per the ad, Jet could be had in Parfum which was still held in the clear "streamlined" crystal bottle with a "mystic" black glass stopper. It was housed in "lustrous white satin boxes." 









 







Fashions of the Hour, 1940:
"Black magic, subtle as the glint of precious real jet. Corday's Jet perfume catches the dark allure of its namesake. 1/4-ounce bottle, $3"

Arts & Decoration, 1941:
"For very special occasions when you feel the need of extra glamor, try Jet, Corday's latest. They have what they call a Jet Set that includes a small purse carrier and two refills of Jet perfume."

In the 1942 ad shown above, Corday perfumes could be had in one dram sized flacon, crystal clear square shaped with long, flat, ground glass stoppers.


In 1942, the Eau de Toilette was "Jet in a lighter vein, the essence for your gayest moods." It was housed in a "crystal clear bottle of simple design with extended black stopper top." It was available in 2.5 oz and 5 oz sizes.


In 1942, Jet was available in Eau de Cologne and Talcum Powder. The cologne was housed in a tall, narrow, rectangular bottle with a black cap. It was available in 2 oz and 4 oz splash bottles.The talcum powder was housed in a similar bottle but had a black lacquered sprinkler top. It was available in the 3 oz size only.


 

c1942 ad






c1942 ad


The New Yorker, 1942:
"Corday: Jet is for gals who own, or yearn for, sable."


Esquire, 1945:
"And in a dark mood, a perfume yclept "Jet" . . . sparkling, sophisticated bewitchery."

 
Hearst's Magazine, 1947:
"BLACK MAGIC FOR YOUR WITCHING HOURS - Wherever you go, have the lovely, tenacious fragrance of JET about you like an enchanted cloak . . . for there's Black Magic in this famous Corday parfum. An elusive, dream-like quality born of French parfumeurs art...bewitchingly blended to proclaim your exciting individuality."


 L'Atlantique, 1952:

"Thirty years as a top-selling perfume is the record behind Corday's 'Toujours Moi'; to celebrate such fame a sister perfume was brought out last summer, 'Toujours Toi'. The row of Corday bottles on the dressing table must also include 'Fame', a light perfume, if one is blond, or 'Tzigane', a spicy scent for brunettes. 'Jet' is discreet enough for all complexions."

Fate of the Fragrance:



Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1967.


Find Jet Perfume by Corday on ebay

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