Charivari by Charles of the Ritz c1978

Charivari by Charles of the Ritz, launched in 1978, is a perfume that encapsulates the playful elegance of the late 1970s. The name "Charivari" was a deliberate choice by Charles of the Ritz, a renowned brand in perfumery. The word "Charivari" comes from French, pronounced as "sha-ree-vah-ree", and traditionally refers to a noisy, playful commotion, often associated with celebratory or mischievous gatherings. The term conjures images of lively and festive events, with an undertone of humor and unexpected joy. There’s a sense of vibrant energy, spontaneity, and irreverence that the name evokes, suggesting that the perfume embodies a spirit of fun and unpredictability.

For women in the late 1970s, the name "Charivari" would have resonated with a sense of liberation and confidence. This was a time when women were embracing greater independence, both personally and professionally. A perfume named after a spirited, joyful chaos might have appealed to women who sought to express themselves in a world that was becoming more dynamic and less rigid. It would have suggested that this fragrance wasn’t for the passive or demure, but for the woman who owned her individuality and wasn’t afraid to make a statement.

Charivari as a scent would interpret its name through a playful yet refined composition. Classified as a light fruity floral chypre, the perfume opens with a sparkling aldehydic top that immediately captures attention with its effervescence. Aldehydes often give a perfume a bright, almost champagne-like quality, and in this context, they might evoke the lively clamor suggested by the name. The floral heart—an elegant blend of rose, jasmine, and tuberose—adds depth and sophistication, grounding the perfume with a rich, feminine allure. These florals, each powerful in their own right, would interweave harmoniously, symbolizing both the beauty and complexity of the wearer. The base of the perfume, with its powdery notes accented by oakmoss, vetiver, and sandalwood, adds a sensual, earthy finish, hinting at both refinement and sensuality.

The late 1970s was a time of shifting styles in the fragrance world. While earlier in the decade, heavy, opulent perfumes dominated, by the mid- to late-70s, a trend toward lighter, fresher scents had begun to emerge. Charivari fits into this evolving landscape as a fragrance that balances lightness with a strong presence, offering a fresh yet enduring composition that appealed to women who were moving away from the heavier scents of earlier years but still wanted something complex and layered. The inclusion of chypre elements—oakmoss and vetiver—rooted the perfume in tradition, while the light florals and fruity nuances gave it a modern twist.

In the context of the time, Charivari was not entirely unique but rather part of a broader shift towards more accessible, versatile fragrances that women could wear day to night. However, its playful name, combined with the sophisticated composition, allowed it to stand out as a fragrance that embodied both the modern woman’s spontaneity and her desire for elegance. Charles of the Ritz, already a respected name in luxury beauty, used Charivari to bridge the gap between tradition and modernity, offering a scent that captured the spirit of its time while maintaining timeless appeal.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light fruity floral chypre fragrance for women.  

It starts of with an aldehydic top, followed by an elegant floral heart, resting on a powdery, feminine base. It combines rose, jasmine and tuberose accented with exotic herbs, European oakmoss and the fresh woodiness of vetiver and sandalwood.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, green notes, lemon, peach and raspberry
• Middle notes: tuberose, herbs, honey, orris, jasmine, lily of the valley, carnation and rose
• Base notes: vetiver, amber, benzoin, oakmoss, musk, sandalwood and cedar

 
Scent Profile:

As Charivari opens, the immediate rush of aldehydes fills the air, sparkling and effervescent, like the crisp pop of champagne bubbles on a cool day. This airy brightness is followed by the sharp zest of bergamot and lemon, bringing a tangy, citrus freshness that is both invigorating and light. The zest is softened by the faint whisper of green notes, evoking the sensation of freshly cut leaves in a lush garden. 

As the sharpness subsides, the luscious sweetness of peach and raspberry begins to unfold, their juicy, sun-kissed aromas lending a soft, fruity roundness that balances the brightness of the citrus. The combination creates an inviting and lively opening, fresh and vibrant yet softened by the richness of the fruits.

As the top notes begin to fade, the floral heart of Charivari blossoms with elegance and complexity. The first floral to greet the senses is tuberose, its creamy, intoxicating richness creating an immediate sense of sensuality and opulence. This white floral note is bold and heady, with a slightly buttery quality that lingers softly on the skin. Intertwined with the tuberose is the sweet, honeyed aroma of jasmine, offering a lush, exotic sensuality that feels both seductive and refined. Lily of the valley adds a fresh, delicate contrast, its green, almost watery floral scent lightening the intensity of the richer blooms.

The floral bouquet is further enriched by the powdery softness of orris root, which adds a velvety texture, like the finest silk brushing against the skin. A whisper of carnation brings a gentle spiciness to the mix, while rose, delicate and timeless, adds a soft, romantic sweetness. The warmth of honey emerges, sweetening the florals with a golden touch, while the gentle touch of herbs brings a subtle earthy, aromatic quality that enhances the complexity of the composition.

As Charivari settles into its base, the fragrance transforms into something deeper, more grounded, yet still retaining its feminine elegance. The earthy greenness of oakmoss forms the backbone of the chypre structure, bringing an element of dry, forest-like depth. This is complemented by the soft, powdery warmth of vetiver, which lends a grassy, slightly smoky edge to the scent. 

The rich, resinous sweetness of ambergris and benzoin wraps the composition in a warm, golden glow, while the smooth creaminess of sandalwood and the dry, clean woodiness of cedar create a lasting impression of warmth and sophistication. The final touch of musk adds a sensual, skin-like warmth, making the fragrance feel intimate and enveloping, a blend of femininity and timeless elegance.

In Charivari, each note unfolds with grace, creating a fragrance that is at once light, elegant, and deeply rooted in classic chypre elements. The interplay between the bright, fruity top, the rich floral heart, and the warm, earthy base makes for a complex, multi-dimensional scent that feels both refined and approachable.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Last newspaper ad I found for it was from 1983 at a deeply discounted cost. The fact that it was deeply discounted in 1983 could suggest it wasn't as popular as initially anticipated or that it was being phased out for newer fragrances. However, discontinued perfumes often have a cult following among collectors who seek out vintage bottles for their unique scents and nostalgic value.

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