Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels c1987

Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels is a classic fragrance launched in 1987. It's known for its sophisticated and timeless scent, created by the talented perfumer Roger Pellegrino of Firmenich. Gem has remained popular over the years for its unique blend of notes and its ability to evoke a sense of elegance and luxury.

 

Gem is a sensual perfume offered in a gem-like bottle by the makers of First, a unique and sophisticated perfume. Gem is truly luxurious and enchanting, with its blend of sensual and exotic notes. The combination of jasmine, tuberose, ylang-ylang, rose, and iris creates a rich and opulent floral bouquet, while the addition of spices like clove, sage, cardamom, and coriander adds depth and warmth to the fragrance. The fruity accents of plum and peach provide a sweet and delicate touch, complementing the overall composition.

The inclusion of artemisia, cypress, myrtle, and patchouli adds a hint of earthiness and greenness, balancing the floral and fruity elements with a touch of freshness. The result is a scent that is both sophisticated and alluring, perfect for the passionate and modern woman who appreciates the finer things in life.

The gem-like bottle design is a fitting representation of the perfume's essence, reflecting its precious and luxurious nature. Overall, Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels seems like a captivating fragrance that embodies elegance, sensuality, and femininity.

Fragrance Composition:

Notes at a glance:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich fruity chypre fragrance for women.  It begins with a fruity, spicy top, followed by an exotic floral heart, resting on a warm, woody base. "A spicy floral merged with blended fruits, amber and chypre. Sweet peach and ripe plum blend with cypress, myrtle and patchouli for vibrant diversity in the top notes. Middle notes of jasmine, tuberose, ylang ylang, rose, iris, clove, cardamom and coriander for added richness. Sensuous base notes of patchouli, amber, vanilla and civet."

• Top notes: myrtle, Egyptian armoise, karo karounde, cypress, cardamom, coriander, rosewood, peach, plum, marigold and chamomile
• Middle notes: wallflower, carnation, Italian jasmine, rose, orris, Indian tuberose, Comoros ylang-ylang, sage and cloves
• Base notes: Tunisian myrtle, oakmoss, amber, civet, Java vetiver, cypress, patchouli and vanilla

Scent Profile:

Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels is a rich fruity chypre fragrance that offers a multi-faceted olfactory experience. The fragrance opens with a burst of fruity and spicy accords, featuring notes of myrtle, Egyptian armoise, karo karounde, cypress, cardamom, coriander, rosewood, peach, plum, marigold, and chamomile. This combination sets the stage for a vibrant and captivating introduction, blending the sweetness of peach and plum with the aromatic warmth of spices and the green freshness of myrtle and cypress.

The heart of Gem unfolds with an exotic floral bouquet, enriched with notes of wallflower, carnation, Italian jasmine, rose, orris, Indian tuberose, Comoros ylang-ylang, sage, and cloves. This floral medley adds depth and richness to the composition, combining the sweetness of jasmine, rose, and ylang-ylang with the spicy nuances of cloves and the powdery elegance of orris.

The fragrance settles into a warm and woody base, featuring Tunisian myrtle, oakmoss, amber, civet, Java vetiver, cypress, patchouli, and vanilla. These base notes provide a sensual and lingering finish to the scent, with the earthy tones of myrtle and oakmoss complementing the sweetness of amber and vanilla, while patchouli and vetiver add depth and complexity.

Overall, Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels offers a sophisticated and alluring fragrance experience, blending fruity, spicy, floral, and woody elements to create a scent that is both captivating and timeless.

Bottle:

Presented in an octangular bottle designed by Joel Desgrippes and made by Verrières Brosse. The bottles were housed in dramatic red and black packaging. As part of the Gem launch in 1988, each pack on sale nationally had been numbered and one was designated with the Gem diamond number. The purchaser of that pack would become the owner of a magnificent $50,000 diamond.

1 oz of parfum retailed for $195 in 1988, the half ounce retailed for $140, and the 50ml Eau de Toilette sold for $49 while the 100ml Eau de Toilette retailed at $72.

In 1996, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced a refillable canister to hold eau de toilette spray bottles for Gem, First and Van Cleef.

The presentation and marketing strategy surrounding Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels truly reflected its luxurious and exclusive nature. The octangular bottle design, created by Joel Desgrippes and manufactured by Verrières Brosse, added an elegant touch to the fragrance, emphasizing its sophistication and high-end appeal. The dramatic red and black packaging further enhanced the allure of the product, creating a sense of mystery and luxury.

The unique promotion in 1988, where each pack of Gem was numbered and one contained a $50,000 diamond, added an element of excitement and exclusivity to the launch. It turned purchasing the fragrance into a thrilling experience, enticing customers with the possibility of owning a valuable gem.

The pricing of Gem in 1988 also reflected its premium status, with the 1 oz parfum retailing for $195, the half ounce for $140, and the 50ml Eau de Toilette for $49, while the 100ml Eau de Toilette sold for $72. These prices positioned Gem as a luxury fragrance, appealing to consumers who were willing to invest in high-quality perfumes.

The introduction of a refillable canister for eau de toilette spray bottles in 1996 demonstrated Van Cleef & Arpels' commitment to sustainability and innovation. This initiative allowed customers to refill their bottles, reducing waste and adding convenience for loyal fans of Gem, First, and Van Cleef fragrances.

Overall, the presentation, pricing, and promotional efforts surrounding Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels contributed to its reputation as a prestigious and sought-after fragrance, appealing to discerning consumers who appreciated luxury and elegance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It's unfortunate that Gem by Van Cleef & Arpels has been discontinued, and the exact date of its discontinuation isn't widely documented. Fragrance discontinuations can happen for various reasons, including changes in consumer preferences, company strategies, or ingredient availability. However, even though it may no longer be in production, Gem continues to hold a special place in the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts as a timeless and beloved scent.