Mistigri by Jacques Griffe c1953

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe, launched in 1953, is a fragrance that carries with it a name rich in cultural and emotional significance. The word "Mistigri" is French and is often associated with the image of a mischievous, playful cat. The term originates from the French language, where "Mistigri" or "Mistou" is a colloquial name for a cat, particularly one that is endearing, cunning, or even a little mysterious. The name has been used in French literature and popular culture, sometimes as a character name, depicting a creature or a person with a playful yet elusive nature. The name "Mistigri" carries dual meanings in French, referring both to a cat and to the "Jack of Clubs" in a deck of cards.

Jacques Griffe's choice of the name Mistigri for his 1953 fragrance suggests a deliberate evocation of these characteristics. The image of a cat, with its grace, mystery, and playful unpredictability, aligns with the nature of the fragrance itself—a spicy green composition designed for women. The fragrance likely intended to capture a sense of feminine allure that is both captivating and a little enigmatic, much like a cat that one cannot fully understand or predict. The name "Mistigri" would evoke feelings of intrigue, charm, and subtle seduction, making it a fitting and unique name for a perfume.

The choice of such a name also aligns with the broader context of the early 1950s, a time when the world was emerging from the austerity of the post-war period and beginning to embrace a new sense of glamour, sophistication, and freedom. The 1950s saw the rise of more adventurous and bold fragrances, as women sought to express themselves in ways that had been restrained during the war years. Mistigri, with its spicy green notes, would have stood out as a unique and daring choice, offering something different from the more traditional floral or powdery scents that had dominated earlier decades.

In the context of other fragrances on the market at the time, Mistigri could be seen as both aligning with and diverging from the trends. The early 1950s was a period marked by a growing interest in more complex, multi-dimensional fragrances that combined floral notes with deeper, spicier, or woodier accords. Mistigri fits this trend with its spicy green composition, yet the specific blend of notes and the playful, feline-inspired name set it apart as a distinctive offering. While many fragrances of the era aimed to evoke a sense of classic elegance, Mistigri might have appealed to women who wanted to express a more playful, independent, and slightly mysterious side of their personality.

In literary references, characters named Mistigri often embody a playful or cunning nature, adding another layer of meaning to the fragrance. This association would have added a cultural depth to the perfume, making it not just a scent, but a statement of identity and style. Mistigri as a fragrance name would have been interpreted as chic, sophisticated, and intriguingly different—a reflection of a woman who is confident in her individuality and unafraid to embrace her more enigmatic qualities.

In summary, Mistigri by Jacques Griffe, with its spicy green profile, would have been a unique addition to the perfume landscape of the early 1950s, offering a scent that was as playful and mysterious as the name suggests, and perfectly in tune with the evolving tastes and attitudes of the time.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy green fragrance for women.

• Top notes: violet leaf, basil, galbanum, rosemary, green note, clary sage, bergamot, petitgrain, lavender
• Middle notes: pepper, clove, cinnamon, cumin, nutmeg, cardamom, jasmine, rose, narcissus, ylang ylang
• Base notes: oakmoss, patchouli, ambergris, vetiver, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, cedar, resins

Harper's Bazaar, 1955;

"Jacques Griffe's "Mistigri," gay and mischievous, named for a fabled French cat."

Cue, 1957:

"And another couturier, Jacques Griffe. is competing in the fragrance sweepstakes with Mistigri (which means "cat"!)"

Fodor's France, 1958

"Jacques Griffe. "Griffonage," "Mistigri," and "Grilou" are three notable offerings of this house; warm, tenacious, and youthful,"

Fodor's France, 1970:

 Jacques Griffe, "Griffonnage" (warm); "Mistigri" (tenacious). 

Scent Profile:

As you experience the opening of Mistigri, a symphony of green, herbal, and citrus notes greets you. The violet leaf provides a sharp, fresh scent, reminiscent of dew-covered leaves on a crisp morning. This green, slightly metallic note evokes the tranquility of a garden just after a rainstorm. The basil follows, adding a sweet yet spicy herbal aroma that’s both invigorating and grounding, its anise-like quality lending an aromatic richness to the fragrance.

Next, the galbanum cuts through with its intensely green, resinous aroma. It’s a powerful, wild scent, almost bitter, capturing the essence of raw, unrefined vegetation. The rosemary introduces a fresh, herbal tone with hints of pine and camphor, its crispness adding clarity to the top notes. As the green notes continue to develop, the general green note amplifies the freshness, invoking the smell of freshly cut grass and lush foliage, adding vibrancy to the fragrance's opening.

The clary sage emerges with a musky, earthy sweetness, its slightly nutty undertones blending harmoniously with the herbal notes. The bergamot brightens the composition with its zesty, citrusy freshness, a sparkling, uplifting note that adds lightness and energy. Petitgrain enhances this with its woody, green citrus aroma, extracted from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, it melds the brightness of citrus with a soft, earthy undertone. Finally, the lavender rounds off the top notes with its calming, floral freshness, its sweet, aromatic quality bringing a soothing balance to the sharper green and citrus elements.

Middle Notes:

As Mistigri settles, the heart of the fragrance reveals itself, a rich blend of spices and florals that deepen the composition. The pepper adds a sharp, fiery kick, a lively, pungent spiciness that enlivens the senses. Clove introduces a warm, sweet-spicy aroma, rich and slightly woody, with an exotic, almost medicinal quality that adds a comforting warmth to the fragrance.

The cinnamon follows, infusing the scent with a sweet, cozy spiciness. Its warm, comforting richness enhances the depth of the middle notes, blending seamlessly with the other spices. Cumin brings a distinctive, slightly musky earthiness, its sweet, aromatic warmth adding an intriguing, exotic touch. Nutmeg offers a softer, sweet-spicy note with hints of woodiness, adding a subtle depth that enriches the heart of the fragrance.

The cardamom introduces a fresh, aromatic spice with a citrusy, eucalyptus-like brightness. It’s an invigorating, complex note that adds a unique, zesty freshness, balancing the richer spices. The floral heart of the fragrance blooms with jasmine, a rich, heady scent that’s sweet and intoxicating, its sensual depth bringing a luxurious opulence to the composition. Rose adds a classic, romantic touch with its soft, velvety aroma, enhancing the fragrance’s elegance. Narcissus introduces a rich, indolic floral note with green and spicy undertones, adding complexity and an almost hypnotic depth. Finally, ylang-ylang contributes a creamy, exotic floral aroma with hints of spice, its warm, sweet scent bringing a sensual, tropical richness to the heart of the fragrance.

Base Notes:

As Mistigri reaches its base, the fragrance deepens with earthy, woody, and resinous notes that anchor the scent. Oakmoss provides a deep, earthy aroma, its rich, mossy scent reminiscent of a damp forest floor, adding a natural, grounded quality to the base. Patchouli follows with its warm, earthy richness, a slightly sweet, smoky aroma that lingers with a mysterious, bohemian vibe.

Ambergris introduces a warm, sweet, and slightly animalic scent, its smooth, resinous quality adding a luxurious, velvety depth to the fragrance. Vetiver brings a dry, woody earthiness, with a smoky, grassy edge that enhances the green aspects of the scent, adding a rugged, natural texture. Musk contributes a soft, warm, slightly animalic aroma, its sensual smoothness creating a lingering warmth that envelops the senses.

The base is further enriched by vanilla, which adds a sweet, creamy warmth, a comforting, gourmand quality that balances the spiciness and earthiness of the fragrance. Sandalwood provides a creamy, woody scent, its soft, milky sweetness adding a luxurious, velvety texture to the base. Cedar adds a dry, woody note, its crisp, resinous aroma bringing a clean, sharp edge to the composition. Finally, the resins introduce a deep, warm, slightly sweet aroma, their rich, balsamic quality enhancing the overall warmth and depth of the fragrance, leaving a smooth, lingering finish.

Bottles:

In a 1954 article from the Anderson Daily Bulletin, the fragrance Mistigri by Jacques Griffe is described with a vivid blend of charm and intrigue. The name "Mistigri" carries dual meanings in French, referring both to a cat and to the "Jack of Clubs" in a deck of cards. This playful duality is cleverly mirrored in the perfume's packaging, which resembles a deck of cards adorned with a sophisticated, feminine cat on one side and the Jack of Clubs on the other. The imagery evokes a sense of both elegance and whimsicality, perfectly capturing the essence of the fragrance.

Mistigri is likened to a cat—an animal as legendary in France as the leprechaun is in Ireland. The cat embodies a spirit that is gay, debonair, playful, and a little mischievous, but also retains a distinct feline femininity. There is an underlying sense of deceitfulness and fiery passion, qualities often attributed to cats. The spirit of this enigmatic creature is infused into every whiff of Jacques Griffe's perfume, making Mistigri not just a fragrance, but an experience that imparts gaiety, wit, and happiness to those who wear it.

This description positions Mistigri as a scent that embodies the complex and multifaceted nature of its namesake—playful and sophisticated, with a touch of mystery and allure. It suggests that the fragrance is perfect for the woman who embraces her own playful, yet deeply feminine, spirit.

Anderson Daily Bulletin, 1954:

 "Mistigri meaning cat, as well as 'Jack of Clubs," is delightfully packages like a deck of cards with a very feminine, sophisticated cat on the side, and the Jack of Clubs on the other. Mistigri, a Cat as legendary in France as the leprechaun is in Ireland, is gay, debonair, playful, a little mischievous,but also feline, feminine, a bit deceitful and fiery on occasion. The spirit of Mistigri is in every whiff of Jacques Griffe's new perfume. Its scent will impart gaiety, wit and happiness."

 

The New Yorker, 1955:

"Jacques Griffe's spicy Mistigri is now around in an eau de toilette; $5.50 for a four-and-a-quarter-ounce bottle, at Bonwit Teller and Lord & Taylor."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Mistigri by Jacques Griffe is a fragrance whose exact discontinuation date remains a mystery, but it was still available for purchase as late as 1961. This perfume, with its playful and sophisticated character, captured the imagination of many during its time. Despite its eventual disappearance from the market, Mistigri left a lasting impression with its unique blend of spicy green notes, embodying the elegance and mischievous charm suggested by its name. Though no longer in production, it remains a cherished memory for those who experienced its distinctive scent.

CLICK HERE TO FIND MISTIGRI PERFUME BY JACQUES GRIFFE