Bittersweet by Ed Pinaud c1930

Bittersweet by Pinaud, launched in 1930, evokes a compelling blend of contrasting emotions through its name. The word "Bittersweet" conveys a sense of duality, capturing the complexity of feelings that are simultaneously sweet and tinged with sadness or longing. This word often stirs images of joy intertwined with sorrow, or moments that are both exhilarating and melancholy. The emotional weight carried by this name would have appealed to women in the 1930s, as it spoke to the complicated and often contradictory experiences of the era.

The 1930s were marked by the aftermath of the Great Depression, a time of significant social, economic, and political upheaval. Many women during this time were navigating a world of both hardship and hope, marked by the struggle for recovery, and yet, they also yearned for beauty, sophistication, and escape. A perfume called Bittersweet would have resonated deeply with these emotions. It suggests a fragrance that might evoke both a sense of invigorating freshness and a touch of melancholy, mirroring the societal context where optimism was often tempered by the lingering effects of the Depression.

In scent, Bittersweet would likely embody this emotional contrast with its dry citrus notes, particularly a lemon-forward freshness balanced by a spicy, herbal undertone. The citrus, with its sharp, clean, and invigorating quality, would be paired with the herbal tang of spices like thyme or coriander, lending the fragrance an edgy, slightly bitter complexity. This combination would reflect the lively, spirited optimism of the 1930s, while the "bittersweet" elements—the dryness and slight bitterness—could evoke the challenges of the time, offering a sense of depth and introspection.

The name Bittersweet would have symbolized not only the duality of personal emotions but also the dualities of the decade itself: the bright hope of a new era following economic collapse, and the lingering uncertainty about the future. Women of the time, often tasked with holding families together and navigating the complexities of modernity, may have found the perfume to be an embodiment of their own experiences—joy and sorrow, light and dark, intertwined in daily life.

Bittersweet also aligns with the trend in the 1930s for perfumes that were more complex, nuanced, and evocative of deeper emotional layers, moving away from the simpler floral and fruity scents of previous decades. A dry citrus fragrance like Bittersweet would not only appeal to women’s sense of modernity but would also provide a means to connect with their inner complexity—reflecting a time when many were finding strength in navigating both the harshness and the beauty of life.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does Bittersweet smell like? It is classified as a citrus aromatic fragrance for women. It is a dry citrus scent, very lemony with a spicy herbal tang.

• Top notes: lemon, citron, orange, bergamot, orange blossom  
• Middle notes: carnation, clove, lemongrass, coriander, thyme, ginger 
• Base notes: cedar, vetiver, tonka bean, patchouli, oakmoss

 

Scent Profile:

As you approach Bittersweet by Ed. Pinaud, the first wave of its fragrance is an invigorating burst of citrus. The zesty lemon hits you immediately, sharp and tangy, like a burst of sunlight on your skin. It’s bright and almost effervescent, with a purity that refreshes and awakens the senses. As the lemon begins to settle, the citron adds a slightly sweeter, yet still brisk and tangy note, reinforcing the feeling of cleanliness and vitality. The orange follows, adding a subtle roundness to the citrus blend, its scent softer, with a slight fruity sweetness that complements the brighter lemon without overpowering it. The bergamot rounds out this citrus trio, offering a slightly more complex, almost floral citrus note, with a gentle bitterness that introduces a touch of sophistication to the fresh opening. Finally, the orange blossom whispers through the air—a delicate floral sweetness that lingers as an undertone, balancing the sharpness of the citrus with a soft, creamy floral note, like the quiet after a storm.

As the fragrance begins to evolve, the heart notes unfurl, bringing a distinct spice and warmth that contrasts with the initial freshness. The carnation, with its spicy, slightly clove-like sweetness, adds a rich, almost powdery depth. It’s a floral that feels both opulent and grounded, offering a comforting warmth that counterbalances the earlier brightness. The clove adds a bold piquancy, a bit fiery and resinous, with an aromatic heat that tingles on the skin. This spicy edge is tempered by the herbal notes of lemongrass and coriander, both of which introduce a grassy sharpness that adds complexity. Lemongrass brings a crisp, almost lemony herbal note, while coriander offers a slightly citrusy, green warmth with a touch of spice. The thyme injects a slightly medicinal, earthy quality, its green and woodsy aroma evoking the quiet strength of nature. Ginger arrives with its unmistakable zest, piquant and warming, giving the composition an invigorating, almost peppery bite.

As the scent softens into its base, the fragrance deepens with earthier, woody notes that bring a sense of grounding and stability. Cedarwood, dry and smooth, wraps the fragrance in a rich, almost smoky undertone, its scent evoking the sturdy strength of ancient trees. Vetiver adds a cool, earthy greenness, a little smoky and a little woody, providing a raw, organic depth that connects the fragrance to the earth beneath. The tonka bean emerges as a soft, sweet warmth, balancing the earthier elements with a gentle, almost almond-like fragrance, with hints of vanilla and spice that provide a comforting sweetness. The patchouli introduces a rich, spicy earthiness, both dark and sensual, its musky scent lingering in the background, creating an aura of mystery. Finally, oakmoss adds a final layer of depth, its rich, woody, and slightly damp fragrance evoking the moist earth of a forest floor, lending a sophisticated earthiness that ties the whole fragrance together with a quiet elegance.

Bittersweet is a fragrance of contrasts—its dry citrus opening is bright and lively, while its heart of spices and herbs adds complexity and warmth. The base is grounded in rich, earthy notes that lend depth and sensuality, making it a fragrance that feels both invigorating and mysterious, fresh yet deeply layered. It captures a sense of balance between lightness and depth, offering a scent that is both sharp and sweet, herbal and floral, with a touch of warmth and spice that lingers long after the first impression fades.

 

Bottles:

The Scarlett O'Hara bottle, introduced by Ed. Pinaud in 1939, became one of the most iconic and recognizable designs associated with the brand. Modeled after the beloved character from Gone With the Wind, this figural bottle captures the essence of the glamorous southern belle in a highly stylized form. Standing just under 7.25 inches tall, the bottle is a striking combination of glass and molded plastic, featuring a clear glass body with a delicate swirl pattern that mimics the sweeping folds of a dress or skirt. This subtle yet elegant design evokes a sense of movement and grace, reminiscent of Scarlett O'Hara herself, as if the bottle were in mid-sway, capturing the drama of her character’s iconic gowns.

The bottle’s small ivory plastic screw cap, embossed with a floral pattern, gives a hint of femininity and refinement. It is the larger over cap, however, that truly distinguishes this bottle. The cap is molded into the likeness of Scarlett O'Hara, her figure depicted with a sense of regal poise and elegance. The thick, dull gold finish of the cap provides a warm contrast to the clear glass, though over time this finish often shows signs of wear. Crazing, cracks, and scuffs are common, which adds to the vintage charm of these bottles, giving each one a unique character. The cap’s somewhat weathered appearance only enhances the nostalgic allure of this classic design, evoking a sense of time gone by.

The Scarlett O'Hara bottle originally held four different eau de cologne scents—Bittersweet, Magnolia, Apple Blossom, and Flirt—each one offering a distinct fragrance experience. The scents were designed to appeal to a range of tastes, from the citrusy tang of Bittersweet to the floral freshness of Magnolia and Apple Blossom. A small paper label affixed to the base of the bottle typically identified the fragrance inside, though these labels are often missing today due to age and handling. The bottle itself remained in production until 1942, making it a short-lived but highly collectible item. Despite its relatively brief run, the Scarlett O'Hara bottle remains a cherished artifact of perfume history, beloved not only for its association with the enduring character from Gone With the Wind but also for its elegant design that reflects the style and glamour of the late 1930s and early 1940s.

In 1940, American Druggist reported that Ed. Pinaud, with its presence in both Paris and New York, secured exclusive rights to create a fragrance collection inspired by the iconic Gone With the Wind characters, particularly Scarlett O'Hara, played by Vivien Leigh. This move capitalized on the immense popularity of the film, which had already become a cultural phenomenon. Pinaud's collaboration with the movie studio led to the creation of an entire line of Scarlett toiletries, including perfumes, soaps, and other scented products, all bearing the hallmark of Hollywood glamour.

The perfume line, under the banner of Vivien Leigh Perfume in "The Wind", drew upon the allure of Scarlett O'Hara's character, with fragrances designed to embody her beauty, charm, and dramatic persona. Alongside the perfumes, Pinaud produced a unique soap carved in the likeness of Scarlett O'Hara, further solidifying the tie to the film and its lead character. The soaps were not merely practical items, but collectible works of art, made to capture the essence of the character in a tangible form.

Each product in the Scarlett line was carefully packaged to reflect the film's grandeur. The packages featured autographed photos of both Vivien Leigh and Clark Gable, adding a touch of Hollywood star power to the packaging. These collectible elements were likely intended to further attract the growing number of Gone With the Wind fans, who were eager to immerse themselves in all things related to the movie. The marketing strategy capitalized on the film's widespread influence, with Pinaud hoping to maintain the product’s popularity for at least two years, anticipating the ongoing cultural impact of the movie. This collaboration between Pinaud and Gone With the Wind marked a significant moment in fragrance marketing, showcasing how Hollywood and the world of perfume could intersect to create lasting consumer appeal.

Fate of the Fragrance:

This vintage perfume has been discontinued, date unknown.