Stephen Burrows by Max Factor c1975

Stevie B by Stephen Burrows Fragrances: launched in 1975 in association with Max Factor, a subsidiary of conglomerate Norton Simon, Inc. Named for designer Stephen Burrows.

Inspired by the success they had with the introduction of their Halston fragrance, Max Factor decided to look for another inspiring designer in which to create a signature fragrance for. Max Factor picked Burrows after surveys concluded that he was one of America's hottest young designers. 

"A woman no longer clings to the same perfume throughout her life," said Stephen Burrows. "She looks for new scents to match her changing moods..to reflect her self image. Of course, individual body chemistry affects fragrances. They are created to mix with each woman's body chemistry to add a special note all her own."

For months, Burrows consulted with perfumers who would make the perfect scent at Max Factor's "fragrance console". "I knew I didn't want to make a fragrance that was so sweet it would turn a woman's stomach. My clothes aren't sweet. My fragrance could not be." He went on to say that "When I said I wanted the smell of rain, I got a vial of something that really did smell like rain. And when I asked for fresh air, I got a vial of fresh air. it's magic!" He noted that after months of sampling, the heads at the Max Factor company settled on a citrusy floral fragrance, but he was not exactly a fan. His favorite was a sample that had a lot more going for it than just a lemony floral with traces of musk and hints of spice. He disappointedly remarked, "I liked it, but I liked something else even more because it smelled like a circus. But they don't go with your favorite. They go with what tests well." 

Fragrance Composition:

This richly vibrant chypre floral fragrance, opens with sparkling aldehydes and brisk citrus top notes, its heart possessing a teasing cascade of fresh garden flowers blended with pungent dry spices, and a woodsy, mossy base with the sensuous undertones of musk and seductive amber.  

• Top notes: lemon, aldehdyes, bergamot
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, hyacinth, spices
• Base notes: musk, oakmoss, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, patchouli

Max Factor claimed that no animal derived substances were used in the manufacture of the perfume and relied on synthetic components to replicate the ambergris and musk notes integral to the base of the perfume.

Stephen B. was marketed as a prestige fragrance, it was on the shelves of department stores throughout the US. Burrows went on a promotional tour around the country and abroad. The perfume's first social introduction began with a rooftop garden party in New York attended by the Municipal Art Society's special Committee to Save Grand Central Station. 

At the official Los Angeles, vice president of Stephen Burrows, Inc. introduced the first black designer and said that "We call him the Jackie Robinson of the fragrance industry."

 

Bottle:

The spherical bottle had a donut shaped glass stopper. A stylized S for Stephen was molded into the glass. Just like the juice, Burrows wasn't a fan of the overall packaging for the fragrance either. He was hoping for something more like the unusual asymmetrical bottle that Max factor had created for designer Halston. Max Factor had a very difficult time with Halston. For nearly a year, he demanded that his friend, jewelry designer Elsa Peretti create his perfume bottle. Refusing to budge, the company had no choice than to go with Halston's demands. As a result, Max Factor was playing safe with the design of Burrows' bottle. "They had so much trouble with Halston's bottle, they didn't want to do it again," said Burrows. They did however, include Burrow's favorite color, red, in the packaging design.

The Stephen B fragrance was available in the following:

• 1/4 oz Perfume
• 1/2 oz Perfume Spray
• 1/2 oz Perfume
• 1 oz Perfume
• 1 oz Perfume Oil
• 2.7 oz Intensified Cologne Splash Bottle
• 1 oz Intensified Cologne Bottle
• 2.5 oz Intensified Cologne Bottle
• "Disco" Silverwave Silverplated Cream Perfume Locket on Sterling silver chain.
• "Silverwave" Silverplated Cream Perfume Locket on silvertone cuff bracelet
• Ceramic heart shaped pomander necklace
• After Bath Powder

The Intensified Cologne had a higher percentage of concentrated essences than simple cologne. When first sprayed on the skin, it will seem very strong, but after a short time, it becomes very fresh smelling. An intensified cologne means that there is very little alcohol in the cologne that has to evaporate before you can smell the fragrance, which means less waste because a small amount of the fragrance applied to the pulse points will keep the fragrance smelling fresh and new for hours. Seldom a need for touchup, but when you needed it, the purse sized spray of perfume, would do just the trick.

The perfume oil was custom-formulated to give lasting power for the woman with dry skin. A few drops of the perfume oil in the bath would help give your skin a subtle hint of the Stephen B fragrance.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The prestige factor was short-lived, as the anniversary of its launch was approaching, sales dwindled. Max Factor decided to expand to attract a wider audience, so they added the fragrance to the grocery stores and discounters. "That was a case of bad merchandising, said Irwin Alfin, marketing executive and developer of the Halston fragrance. "They introduced it in 14,000 stores. You don't build prestige in 14,000 stores, including Walgreens. Also Burrows wasn't that well known."  As for the success of Halston, he said that "his name was so well known by the time the fragrance was introduced. 

The Stephen Burrows fragrance's exclusive cache disappeared, leaving Burrows angry and frustrated resulting in numerous disputes over contract distribution. Burrows was done. He was sick of the fragrance, sick of the arguments and just sick of the whole thing. Exasperated, and not wanting to take the matter to court, Burrows finally accepted a $90,000 settlement from Max Factor.  

It was discontinued before 1987.