Filly by Capucci c1983

Filly by Capucci, launched in 1983, came from the creative vision of Roberto Capucci, an Italian fashion designer renowned for his architectural approach to fashion. Capucci’s designs were celebrated for their sculptural quality, intricate pleats, and vibrant use of color, often compared to modern art. His choice to create a fragrance like Filly reflects his fascination with elegance, femininity, and movement, elements central to his work in couture. The name "Filly" comes from the English word for a young female horse, pronounced "fil-ee." It evokes imagery of youthful grace, vitality, and untamed spirit—a metaphor for the type of woman who might wear this fragrance.

The word filly conjures emotions of freedom, energy, and an adventurous spirit. It captures the image of a young woman who is confident, playful, and full of life, much like the fashion Capucci was known for creating. In the context of the early 1980s, a perfume called Filly would have resonated with women seeking to express their independence and modern femininity. It was an era of growing empowerment for women in many spheres, including fashion, where strong, individualistic designs were taking center stage. Filly, with its lively name, would have appealed to women who wanted to embrace a youthful, dynamic identity without sacrificing sophistication.

Interpreting the word "Filly" in scent, the fragrance captures the essence of spirited elegance, much like a graceful, youthful horse bounding freely but with poise. As a fruity floral woody chypre, it starts off sweet and fresh, with hints of juicy fruits that evoke brightness and vibrancy. The fragrance then transitions to a lush floral heart, where classic and heady blooms intertwine to represent the romantic, feminine side of this youthful spirit. The chypre base, with its woody and mossy notes, brings a sense of maturity and depth, grounding the exuberance of the top notes with an air of sophistication.

The early 1980s was a time when bold, distinctive fragrances dominated the market. Many perfumes leaned into powerful, statement-making profiles, embracing opulence and drama. Filly, with its fruity floral woody chypre structure, found itself both in line with and distinct from the trends of the time. The chypre category had always been popular, known for its complexity and enduring appeal, but Filly added a youthful, sweet twist, making it accessible to a younger audience. The fruity floral top would have felt fresh and modern, while the woody chypre base adhered to the rich, lasting character that was beloved during this period.

In 1983, the launch of Filly would have been notable for balancing the trends of bold, assertive scents with a playful, fresh sweetness. It offered a fragrance for women who wanted to feel youthful but grounded, lively but elegant—mirroring the evolving dynamics of femininity in the early '80s. Filly represented a delicate interplay of innocence and maturity, a reflection of Capucci’s mastery in blending the whimsical with the structured in both fashion and fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity floral woody chypre fragrance for women. It is both fresh and heady with a very sweet start, slightly fruity, then a very flowery background.

• Top notes: tangerine, peach, neroli, bergamot, aldehydes and green leaves
• Middle notes: hyacinth, jasmine, carnation, orchid, tea rose and ylang-ylang
• Base notes: amber, civet, oak moss, musk, sandalwood and vetiver

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Filly, the immediate burst is a symphony of bright, sweet fruits. The top notes open with the juicy, sun-ripened essence of tangerine and peach, both offering a lush, almost syrupy sweetness that is uplifting and succulent. The peach’s velvety softness contrasts with the slightly tart zing of the tangerine, creating a sense of vibrancy and warmth. Interwoven with these fruity tones is a subtle freshness from neroli, lending its delicate floral-citrus aroma, which feels clean and slightly green, evoking the crispness of orange blossoms swaying in the breeze.

At the heart of this introduction is bergamot, which adds a gentle, bitter undertone, bringing the top notes into balance. It creates a sophisticated citrus edge that hints at more complexity to come. A light, airy touch of aldehydes sparkles in the background, giving the fragrance an ethereal lift. These aldehydes add a layer of crispness, creating a smooth, soapy sensation that enhances the fresh sweetness of the fruits. Finally, the inclusion of green leaves injects a natural, leafy freshness that grounds the effervescent fruitiness, connecting it to a more organic, earthy character.

As the initial fruit notes settle, the heart of Filly emerges with a lush bouquet of florals, where the fragrance takes on a fuller, more romantic character. The fresh sweetness of hyacinth opens the floral accord, its slightly aquatic greenness providing an airy, cool feel, like a breeze rustling through spring blooms. Jasmine, creamy and heady, infuses the scent with a sensuous depth. Its intoxicating richness envelops the wearer, creating a feeling of opulence and warmth, while carnation adds a spicy, peppery edge, cutting through the sweetness with a sharp, slightly clove-like warmth.

The heart continues to develop with the exotic elegance of orchid, whose velvety petals lend an almost creamy, delicate floral quality. Paired with tea rose, the scent begins to exude a soft, classic femininity, evoking the delicate sweetness of fresh-cut blooms with a hint of powderiness. The inclusion of ylang-ylang enriches this floral core, introducing a tropical warmth with its unique blend of creamy, fruity, and floral notes. It adds a narcotic intensity that enhances the fragrance’s depth, making the floral heart not just a fleeting bloom but a complex, long-lasting impression.

Finally, as the florals fade, Filly rests on a warm, woody base that brings an air of sensuality and sophistication. Amber radiates with a soft, resinous warmth, wrapping the scent in a golden glow. It is complemented by the animalic undertones of civet, which lends a subtle muskiness, adding a hint of raw, primal allure to the blend. Oakmoss introduces an earthy, forest-like depth, providing a grounding chypre quality that is both rich and dry, enhancing the fragrance’s lasting power. The classic pairing of musk and sandalwood gives the base a creamy, slightly powdery smoothness, with the sandalwood’s woody richness offering a lingering sense of comfort and warmth.

As the scent lingers on the skin, the earthy sharpness of vetiver reveals itself, adding a touch of grassiness and smoke that intertwines with the sweetness of amber and the animalic musk. Together, these base notes form a captivating, woody backdrop that balances the fruity-floral vibrancy of the top and middle layers, rounding out Filly as a sophisticated, yet playful, fragrance that feels both youthful and timeless.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. It was still sold in 1993.

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